Rockfax Description
Almost a great classic, though the grassy grot just to the right of the lower section is a bit of a spoiler - you will either love it or hate it. Care with the ropework is required. From the gearing-up ledge above the river, pull onto the front face, and climb the arete and wall (or grubby easy ground further right) to a big thread. Swing up and left to enter the hanging groove, and finish spectacularly over the left-hand side of the capping overhang. © Rockfax

FA. Ed Ward-Drummond, Hamish Green-Armytage 1972

Ticklists: Extreme Rock, Peak Rock/10/White Life, Ultimate E1 ticklist.

ClimberDateStyleNotes & Partners
chris fox 29/Sep Lead rpt

climbed to get access for a Headpoint on The Gladiator.

Mike Hegarty 20/Sep Lead O/S
Christian Fox
chris fox 05/Sep Lead O/S

Made it into a mini epic for the watching masses !

islandlynx 29/Aug -

In the rockfax it says up the face or arete or head rightwards. I wonder if the difference in difficuulty between these ways is quite significant. i went rightwards and never found a 5b move on the route. hence it felt very soft for the grade. I was constantly waiting for a hard part and then found myself jug hauling over the overhang. nevertheless a great route

AmyAmy 29/Aug 2nd

Great route, was a bit nervous about having an audience to start with but soon forgot about it. last section looks intimidating but there are lots of good jugs all the way up.

Tom riddlesdell, islandlynx
TomRiddelsdell 29/Aug 2nd β

Soft for the grade but a fantastic route with awesome exposure...and an encouraging crowd of spectators!

Alex Horton, Shane Williams
Horton 29/Aug 2nd O/S

Think I took an easy option further right than the true e1 climb. Cracking route, though

amccann 12/Aug 2nd O/S
harry_lewis 12/Aug Lead O/S
JamieSparkes 08/Aug Lead O/S

Sadly not quite as brilliant as it looks from over the river. Last section is quite steep and provides a good contrast to the lower bit.

BTphonehome 08/Aug Lead O/S
kasha_gregson 08/Aug 2nd
Dan Hostford 25/Jul Lead O/S

A bit loose

rd20 19/Jul 2nd O/S
dprctr 19/Jul Lead O/S
Nigel Bond 01/Jul Lead O/S
Bern Hardman
Compo 24/May 2nd O/S
Kev Faux
Kevster 24/May Lead O/S

Enjoyed this one. Finding the ab was the hardest bit (chain is a little hidden)

Hidden ??/2015 -
SGD 07/Sep/14 Lead O/S

Really good pitch, had quite a bit of rope drag at the top as I didn't extend my runners far enough. Excellent top groove and the 1st section is quite intimidating till you get moving

david morse 24/Aug/14 Lead O/S

Chossy but good gear

Hidden 24/Aug/14 2nd dnf
cem 09/Aug/14 2nd rpt
Graeme Hammond 09/Aug/14 Lead O/S

Rock and climbing better than expected, people who find it loose & vegetated must be climbing off route to the right as all the rock is clean and solid all the way. Gear at the crux a little fiddly to get right but is steep rather than hard. Glad of jams at the top as got a bit pumped. Good to finally do and glad not to have an epic in front of the crowds :)

benw681 ?/Aug/14 Lead O/S


Ella, Jake
Jim Slater 27/Jul/14 Lead O/S

Good climb, took a while to commit to the crux, was a bit goey.

gkrgeorge 27/Jul/14 Lead dog
gavinpeach 20/Jul/14 Lead O/S

Worth doing to get to the top of the pinnacle. Some nice moves mixed in with some dubious rock. Feels steep and serious all the way with some intimidating run outs. The top section is the most fun.

helin 20/Jul/14 2nd
Hidden 15/Jul/14 Lead O/S
Tim Rodgers 30/Jun/14 2nd
JasTaplin 01/Jun/14 2nd
J.Wells 01/Jun/14 Lead O/S
ColinD 31/May/14 Lead
belay bunny turned bad 17/May/14 Lead O/S
Hidden 17/May/14 2nd
john lynch 15/Apr/14 Lead O/S


Lewis Andrew
j.buckley87 06/Oct/13 -
Hidden 08/Sep/13 Lead O/S
leon 08/Sep/13 2nd O/S

tricky, good lead by fab. got a round of applause at the top!!

Hidden 18/Aug/13 2nd
duzinga 10/Aug/13 Lead O/S

Quality moves, did not encounter any choss whatsoever. The runout from the leftward slanting crack of white edge to the thread felt very serious though.

jamie ward 27/Jul/13 2nd
Marcus Harvey
Jake Young 17/Jul/13 Lead O/S
Hidden 13/Jul/13 Lead O/S
ambrooker 01/Jun/13 2nd O/S
chiverstom 01/Jun/13 Lead O/S

Been meaning to do this for ages. Great position but climbing not exceptional

tatz45 27/May/13 Lead O/S

Awesome route, definitely top end E1.

captain ??/2013 -
ejected ??/2013 -
andybirtwistle ??/2013 -
Andy Peak 1 08/Sep/12 Lead
H washbrook
Rachel Slater 18/Aug/12 Lead O/S

Wet, slimy, dirty and loose.

Chi Cheng 18/Aug/12 2nd O/S


Sophie Nunn 11/Aug/12 Lead O/S
Sion, Phil
Colin Scotchford 15/Jul/12 Lead
Jonathan Hall 07/Jul/12 Lead

Was really wet in places so had to go left a bit more than I would of liked and it made the crux feel tricky. Top didn't feel pumpy at all. Good route, better location.

Hidden 07/Jul/12 2nd
riddle 30/Jun/12 Lead O/S
mikeyjbs 30/Jun/12 2nd
Roger Hamilton-Smith
caradoc 14/Jun/12 Lead O/S

I enjoyed this one, bit nervous with all the crowds watching but it was straightforward, pumpy at the end. Nick got a round of applause when he finished.

nick yapp
chrism225 10/Jun/12 Lead O/S
Hidden 04/Jun/12 Lead O/S
dan gibson 04/Jun/12 2nd O/S
michael porter
Dave Turnbull, BMC 22/May/12 Lead
Dominic Oughton
tlmarjot 13/May/12 Lead dog
Mark Almack
markalmack 13/May/12 2nd O/S
Dizz 11/Mar/12 Lead

Went wrong way at top - did not go left. Have to do again now!

Martin Haworth 10/Mar/12 Lead O/S
Brannock 10/Mar/12 2nd
Bob ??/2012 -
Hidden ??/2012 -
captain dringo ??/2012 -
adie84 ??/2012 -
Tony Kartawick ??/2012 -
Hidden ??/2012 -
Hidden ??/2012 Lead O/S
Rob Greenwood - UKClimbing ??/2012 Lead O/S

Probably the worst route in Extreme Rock

Tim Hill
Hidden 16/Oct/11 Lead O/S
Hidden 01/Oct/11 2nd O/S
bigie bob 23/Sep/11 Lead O/S
Hidden 20/Aug/11 2nd dog
drysori 20/Aug/11 Lead O/S
richardr 31/Jul/11 Lead O/S
Hidden 23/Jul/11 Lead O/S
Brian Rodgers 26/Jun/11 2nd rpt

For such a classic route, it is a bit of a non-line. Dissapointing.

masa-alpin 18/Jun/11 Lead O/S

Soon after I started climbing, the heavens opened... I got properly scared on slimestones and it took ages to complete the route. Thank God, at least the gear is good. Good route, though!

Matt B
HamishD ?/May/11 Lead O/S
Chris Clarke
thomasadixon 20/Apr/11 Lead RP

Good clean climb as I did it, though went onto the White Edge for it's top section...couldn't resist what seemed the obvious way and the "right" way looked chossy. Very good! Wicked belay an position on the climb above the river.

Chriswallis2 09/Apr/11 Lead O/S
Jack Geldard - UKC Chief Editor ??/2011 -
GeoffG ??/2011 -
PAJames ??/2011 -
thebigfriendlymoose ??/2011 -
Brannock 12/Oct/10 Lead O/S

The first E1 ive done for a while. Great psoition and all the attention from passers by is always nice, climbing bit grubby and lose in places. Overall great route through. Abbed off the chins at the other end of the rock.

vanderz 12/Sep/10 Lead O/S
Hannes B 27/Aug/10 Lead O/S
drcorbasisgod 25/Jul/10 2nd rpt
Dogmusher 25/Jul/10 Lead O/S
chris parson
Hidden 03/Jul/10 Lead O/S
cem 03/Jul/10 2nd rpt
mark20 27/Jun/10 Lead O/S

Felt a bit ran out without microwires for the crux. Good belay at the top of route, then scramble along the top to obvious tat and chain to ab off. Fine route, and good rock.

bigdrew 27/Jun/10 2nd rpt
Misha 16/May/10 Lead O/S

Have been wanting to do this for a while. Excellent climbing and positions. Didn't find the abseil chains as they are slightly below the top of the pinnacle (later saw them clearly marked in the guide book photo...) so lowered off a bit of tat. That was fine but then the ropes wouldn't pull through, so ended up spending an hour freeing them - had to scramble with one of the free ends up tottering vegetation opposite the pinnacle until just above the top of the pinnacle and pull the rope from there, which worked (was beginning to contemplate climbing back up on the free ends!). The vegetated section to the right of the route doesn't intrude at all.

Pay Attention 16/May/10 2nd
zombie_pat 15/May/10 2nd O/S
GF ??/2010 -
Hidden ??/2010 Lead
Seymore Butt ??/2010 -
mlmatt 10/Oct/09 Lead

Fell off and ripped 2 cams out. Came down to sort myself out before I decided to get back on it. Was on a bit of a mission to do it as it was Dan's last time in the peak for a year. I'll go back for the flash one day!. Oh got the abseil ropes stuck so had to prussic back up in the dark, good times!

Dan Masterman
snakebite 10/Oct/09 2nd O/S
Sam1991 18/Aug/09 Lead O/S

Only my 4th ever E1 on limestone, absolutely loved it. Found it hard work in places, but you get good rests after the hard bits. Crux protected by bomber microwire or iffy rock 1, you choose! Took me a long time (an hour ish), and even the crowds got bored. Hardly a flamboyant ascent, but still found it absolutely awsome.

bigdrew 18/Aug/09 2nd dog
Hidden 15/Aug/09 2nd rpt
Owen W-G 09/Aug/09 Lead dog

Had a torrid time on epic (90min?) ascent, foolishly venturing left around the arete about 6m prematurely onto the steep E3 rather than straight up the right wall (trending right-ish) to the giant thread. Pumped silly, rested on one decrepid peg above the huge jug on White Edge and, with mojo crushed, again at the top groove. First E1 failure in ages and a v public humbling on a sunny summer Sunday, one to come back to.

Si & Andy
sdht ?/Aug/09 Lead
Alex Mason 25/Jul/09 Lead O/S

did it right this time, last time i did the white edge, some cool sections, but, clearly trying to make a route where there isnt really one.

Tom Martin
Brown 04/Jul/09 Lead O/S
miastacey 04/Jul/09 2nd
Heather Clarke
porridgefan 28/Jun/09 Lead O/S

I loved the attention! Technical and exposed, but felt easy compared to other local E1s; maybe I went off route a little? I tried to stay plum to the arete though...

Niall Francis
Hidden 28/Jun/09 2nd O/S
Mr Powly ??/2009 Lead O/S
Hidden 19/Sep/08 Lead O/S
Oli 19/Sep/08 2nd O/S
Different Steve 23/Aug/08 Lead O/S

Tough at the grade...

Clee 23/Aug/08 2nd
IanJackson 23/Jun/08 Lead

great position, but escapable, and poor/easy climbing after the crux moves.

JDSwain 23/Jun/08 2nd
willackers 08/Jun/08 Lead O/S
Tom Mills
Brian Rodgers 21/May/08 2nd
Paul Bowen 10/May/08 Lead O/S
WB 10/May/08 Lead O/S

and zaff

Hidden 10/May/08 2nd
Mr Powly 06/May/08 Lead dog
Silum ??/2008 Lead O/S

i cant possibly imagine trending off right into the crappy moss. Stick to the direct arete and its pretty brilliant climbing, certainly not over rated...how could a climb in this position be anything but awesome

tuftynick ??/2008 -
bourney ?/Sep/07 Lead O/S
juza 13/Aug/07 Lead
Dave Bond 30/Jul/07 Lead O/S
Si dH 24/May/07 2nd dog

Came off once tryign to go direct up the arete, which seemed desperate. Slunk off right and followed the easier ground up to the thread (as Neil had), then went back left round the arete and up the groove (pumpy). Some good climbing but wandering that much and a lot of muck and loose stuff - not great. Direct up the arete all the way to the thread is no doubt betetr but felt really hard.

Neil Furniss
Hidden 22/Apr/07 Lead O/S
Sankey 21/Apr/07 2nd dog
thebigfriendlymoose 21/Apr/07 Lead O/S
Toby Dunn ??/2007 -
Alex Mason 07/Aug/06 Lead O/S

got confused with this one ended up on the white edge, which interestingly was the only bit of quality climbing i found on my route!

Whitt 17/Jul/06 2nd dog
Hidden 16/Jul/06 Lead dog
colin milton 12/Jul/06 Lead

a long haul

Apharri ?/Jul/06 Lead O/S
Dave Wharton
Bern ??/2006 -
Hidden ??/2006 Lead O/S
Hidden ??/2006 Lead O/S
soph ??/2004 Lead O/S
Mark crampton
Okecroak 19/Sep/03 Lead
J Teale
cem 05/Jul/03 Lead O/S
Rod Strachan
DubyaJamesDubya 22/Jun/03 Lead O/S
Martin Flint
sadams 18/Apr/01 Lead
Tom Briggs
Dave Rumney 28/Aug/00 Lead
Kev Sales
goi.ashmore 14/May/00 Lead O/S
Iain Fisher
Tom Briggs - Jagged Globe ??/2000 Lead
philhilo ??/2000 -
Tim M ??/2000 -
marcoleptic ??/2000 Lead
Hidden 30/May/99 Lead
Trobbo 20/Mar/99 -
andy hartley
Gary Coggon ??/1998 Lead O/S

2nd: Mike. 1998?

Mike Block
phardman ??/1997 -
Hidden 29/Jun/95 Lead O/S
andyblain ?/Jun/95 Lead O/S
Ian Jones ??/1995 Lead O/S


Karen Ghiselli
Glenn Sutcliffe ??/1995 -
Cowflinger ?/Aug/94 Lead O/S
Marti999 ?/May/94 Lead O/S
Sean Kelly ?/Apr/94 2nd

I really can't remember much about this climb as it made such a lasting impression...?

Rick Kruze
Andy Say 03/May/92 Lead
nai ??/1992 Lead
andrew300169 ??/1992 Lead dog
Roget 24/Mar/91 Lead O/S
Bern ??/1991 -
ChrisJD ??/1991 Lead
NickJH ??/1991 -
Hidden 27/May/90 2nd
Bruce Kerr 17/Mar/90 2nd
Hidden ??/1990 Lead O/S
keefe ??/1990 -
Steve Lenartowicz ??/1990 2nd
John N
Dave Musgrove 09/Aug/89 2nd
Dave Musgrove Jnr 09/Aug/89 Lead
Hidden ?/Aug/88 Lead O/S
Hidden ??/1988 Lead O/S
rogerskews ??/1987 2nd
Steve Walker
William Robertson ??/1987 Lead O/S
Emily, Steve, Shaun etc
shark 08/Oct/86 2nd
Hidden 21/Sep/86 2nd
Hidden 27/Jul/86 2nd
uphillnow ??/1986 Lead
Andrew (Pog) Horn
Andy Edgar ??/1986 Lead O/S

Long over due ascent, enjoyable but not great

Hidden 05/Oct/85 2nd
TonyF 01/May/85 -
Ian Clare ??/1985 -
andy gittins ??/1985 -
charlesmfrench 24/Apr/84 Lead O/S
Hidden 29/Aug/83 2nd
stp 09/Apr/83 Lead O/S
Gezzer ??/1983 Lead O/S

First E1

Derek Shaw
Hidden 05/Jun/82 Lead
Mike Owen 16/May/82 -
Phil Ralph
Andy Stephenson 01/Sep/81 Lead O/S
Chris Plant
Hidden ?/Jun/81 Lead O/S
Hidden ?/Jun/80 2nd
robinsi197 ??/1980 AltLd
Hidden ??/1980 -
petemeads 17/May/76 Lead O/S
High E2
Mid E2
Low E2
High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
High HVS
Votes cast 50
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
Votes cast 48
Votes cast 47
Style of ascent
Alt Leads
Not Set
Flashed (β)
Not Set