UKC Logbook - 'Easter Island'

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Staffordshire > Ilam Rock (Dovedale) >

Easter Island

E1 5b

Adjacent Climbs
<< The White Edge

Chunky Punky >>

28m. Almost a great classic, though the grassy grot just to the right of the lower section is a bit of a spoiler - you will either love it or hate it. Care with the ropework is required. From the gearing-up ledge above the river, pull onto the front face, and climb the arete and wall (or grubby easy ground further right) to a big thread. Swing up and left to enter the hanging groove, and finish spectacularly over the left-hand side of the capping overhang. © ROCKFAX
FA. Ed Ward-Drummond, Hamish Green-Armytage 1972

Ticklists: Extreme Rock.

Photo: Making my way up Ilam rock © Whitt
View all 3 photos or Submit a new photo of this climb.

PUBLIC LOGBOOKS

This climb is in 151 logbooks, and on 24 wishlists.

Hidden - 2013

captain - 2013

Andy Peak 1 - Lead - 08/Sep/12 with H washbrook

Wet, slimy, dirty and loose.
r fizzle - Lead O/S - 18/Aug/12 with Chi Huo Cheng

Wet.
Chi Cheng - 2nd O/S - 18/Aug/12 with Rachel Stater

Sophie Nunn - Lead O/S - 11/Aug/12 with Sion, Phil

Colin Scotchford - Lead - 15/Jul/12

Was really wet in places so had to go left a bit more than I would of liked and it made the crux feel tricky. Top didn't feel pumpy at all. Good route, better location.
Jonathan Hall - Lead - 07/Jul/12 with Hannah Moulton

sazmaz - 2nd - 07/Jul/12 with Dan Lanchester-Wright

riddle - Lead O/S - 30/Jun/12 with Mike Stephenson

mikeyjbs - 2nd - 30/Jun/12 with Roger Hamilton-Smith

enjoyed this one, bit nervous with all the crowds watching but it was straightforward, pumpy at the end. Nick got a round of applause when he finished.
caradoc - Lead O/S - 14/Jun/12 with nick yapp

chrism225 - Lead O/S - 10/Jun/12 with jonny

Hidden - Lead O/S - 04/Jun/12

dan gibson - 2nd O/S - 04/Jun/12 with michael porter

Dave Turnbull, BMC - Lead - 22/May/12 with Dominic Oughton

tlmarjot - Lead dog - 13/May/12 with Mark Almack

markalmack - 2nd O/S - 13/May/12 with tim marjot

Went wrong way at top - did not go left. Have to do again now!
Dizz - Lead - 11/Mar/12 with Matt K

Martin Haworth - Lead O/S - 10/Mar/12 with John Brannock

Brannock - 2nd - 10/Mar/12

Bob - 2012

Hidden - 2012

captain dringo - 2012

adie84 - 2012

Tony Kartawick - 2012

Hidden - 2012

Hidden - Lead O/S - 2012

Hidden - Lead O/S - 16/Oct/11

conorcussell - 2nd O/S - 01/Oct/11

bigie bob - Lead O/S - 23/Sep/11

Hidden - 2nd dog - 20/Aug/11

Wil Treasure - Lead O/S - 20/Aug/11 with Jesamine

richardr - Lead O/S - 31/Jul/11

Hidden - Lead O/S - 23/Jul/11

For such a classic route, it is a bit of a non-line. Dissapointing.
Brian Rodgers - 2nd rpt - 26/Jun/11 with Mike Todd

Soon after I started climbing, the heavens opened... I got properly scared on slimestones and it took ages to complete the route. Thank God, at least the gear is good. Good route, though!
masa-alpin - Lead O/S - 18/Jun/11 with Matt B

HamishD - Lead O/S - May/11 with Chris Clarke

Good clean climb as I did it, though went onto the White Edge for it's top section...couldn't resist what seemed the obvious way and the "right" way looked chossy. Very good! Wicked belay an position on the climb above the river.
thomasadixon - Lead RP - 20/Apr/11 with Becca

Chriswallis2 - Lead O/S - 09/Apr/11 with Anna

Jack Geldard - UKC Chief Editor - 2011

GeoffG - 2011

Hidden - 2011

thebigfriendlymoose - 2011

The first E1 ive done for a while. Great psoition and all the attention from passers by is always nice, climbing bit grubby and lose in places. Overall great route through. Abbed off the chins at the other end of the rock.
Brannock - Lead O/S - 12/Oct/10

vanderz - Lead O/S - 12/Sep/10 with patrick dawson

Hannes B - Lead O/S - 27/Aug/10 with Rik

drcorbasisgod - 2nd rpt - 25/Jul/10 with Mark O'Neill

Dogmusher - Lead O/S - 25/Jul/10 with chris parson

Hidden - Lead O/S - 03/Jul/10

cem - 2nd rpt - 03/Jul/10 with Paul Bolton

Felt a bit ran out without microwires for the crux. Good belay at the top of route, then scramble along the top to obvious tat and chain to ab off. Fine route, and good rock.
mark20 - Lead O/S - 27/Jun/10

bigdrew - 2nd rpt - 27/Jun/10 with Mark R

Have been wanting to do this for a while. Excellent climbing and positions. Didn't find the abseil chains as they are slightly below the top of the pinnacle (later saw them clearly marked in the guide book photo...) so lowered off a bit of tat. That was fine but then the ropes wouldn't pull through, so ended up spending an hour freeing them - had to scramble with one of the free ends up tottering vegetation opposite the pinnacle until just above the top of the pinnacle and pull the rope from there, which worked (was beginning to contemplate climbing back up on the free ends!). The vegetated section to the right of the route doesn't intrude at all.
Misha - Lead O/S - 16/May/10 with Paul

zombie_pat - 2nd O/S - 15/May/10 with Pete

GF - 2010

Hidden - Lead - 2010

Seymore Butt - 2010

Fell off and ripped 2 cams out. Came down to sort myself out before I decided to get back on it. Was on a bit of a mission to do it as it was Dan's last time in the peak for a year. I'll go back for the flash one day!. Oh got the abseil ropes stuck so had to prussic back up in the dark, good times!
mlmatt - Lead - 10/Oct/09 with Dan Masterman

snakebite - 2nd O/S - 10/Oct/09 with Matt Reynolds

Only my 4th ever E1 on limestone, absolutely loved it. Found it hard work in places, but you get good rests after the hard bits. Crux protected by bomber microwire or iffy rock 1, you choose! Took me a long time (an hour ish), and even the crowds got bored. Hardly a flamboyant ascent, but still found it absolutely awsome.
Sam1991 - Lead O/S - 18/Aug/09 with Mark

bigdrew - 2nd dog - 18/Aug/09 with Mark R, Sam Dixon

Hidden - 2nd rpt - 15/Aug/09

Had a torrid time on epic (90min?) ascent, foolishly venturing left around the arete about 6m prematurely onto the steep E3 rather than straight up the right wall (trending right-ish) to the giant thread. Pumped silly, rested on one decrepid peg above the huge jug on White Edge and, with mojo crushed, again at the top groove. First E1 failure in ages and a v public humbling on a sunny summer Sunday, one to come back to.
Owen W-G - Lead dog - 09/Aug/09 with Si & Andy

sdht - Lead - Aug/09 with Jill

did it right this time, last time i did the white edge, some cool sections, but, clearly trying to make a route where there isnt really one.
Alex Mason - Lead O/S - 25/Jul/09 with Tom Martin

Brown - Lead O/S - 04/Jul/09 with Henry

miastacey - 2nd - 04/Jul/09 with Heather Clarke

I loved the attention! Technical and exposed, but felt easy compared to other local E1s; maybe I went off route a little? I tried to stay plum to the arete though...
porridgefan - Lead O/S - 28/Jun/09 with Niall Francis

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 28/Jun/09

Mr Powly - Lead O/S - 2009 with Pete Graham

Hidden - Lead O/S - 19/Sep/08

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 19/Sep/08

Tough at the grade...
Different Steve - Lead O/S - 23/Aug/08 with Clio

Clee - 2nd - 23/Aug/08 with Steve

great position, but escapable, and poor/easy climbing after the crux moves.
IanJackson - Lead - 23/Jun/08

Swain16 - 2nd - 23/Jun/08 with Ian Jackson

willackers - Lead O/S - 08/Jun/08 with Tom Mills

Brian Rodgers - 2nd - 21/May/08 with Phil Leng

Paul Bowen - Lead O/S - 10/May/08 with Rebecca Hayes

and zaff
WB - Lead O/S - 10/May/08 with Guy

Hidden - 2nd - 10/May/08

Mr Powly - Lead dog - 06/May/08 with Pete Graham

i cant possibly imagine trending off right into the crappy moss. Stick to the direct arete and its pretty brilliant climbing, certainly not over rated...how could a climb in this position be anything but awesome
Silum - Lead O/S - 2008 with Tom

tuftynick - 2008

bourney - Lead O/S - Sep/07

juza - Lead - 13/Aug/07

Dave Bond - Lead O/S - 30/Jul/07 with charles

Came off once tryign to go direct up the arete, which seemed desperate. Slunk off right and followed the easier ground up to the thread (as Neil had), then went back left round the arete and up the groove (pumpy). Some good climbing but wandering that much and a lot of muck and loose stuff - not great. Direct up the arete all the way to the thread is no doubt betetr but felt really hard.
Si dH - 2nd dog - 24/May/07 with Neil Furniss

Hidden - Lead O/S - 22/Apr/07

Sankey - 2nd dog - 21/Apr/07 with Luke

thebigfriendlymoose - Lead O/S - 21/Apr/07 with Stephen

Toby Dunn - 2007

got confused with this one ended up on the white edge, which interestingly was the only bit of quality climbing i found on my route!
Alex Mason - Lead O/S - 07/Aug/06 with Steve Ramsden

Whitt - 2nd dog - 17/Jul/06 with Andy

Hidden - Lead dog - 16/Jul/06

a long haul
colin milton - Lead - 12/Jul/06 with pep

Apharri - Lead O/S - Jul/06 with Dave Wharton

Bern - 2006

mark s - Lead O/S - 2006 with andi t

Hidden - Lead O/S - 2006

cem - Lead O/S - 05/Jul/03 with Rod Strachan

sadams - Lead - 18/Apr/01 with Tom Briggs

Dave Rumney - Lead - 28/Aug/00 with Kev Sales

goi.ashmore - Lead O/S - 14/May/00 with Iain Fisher

Tom Briggs - Jagged Globe - Lead - 2000