Derbyshire > Dovedale >
 
Easter Island** E1 5b

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[Nick above the biology class, Easter Island, 3 kb]28m. Almost a great classic, though the grassy grot just to the right of the lower section is a bit of a spoiler - you will either love it or hate it. Care with the ropework is required. From the gearing-up ledge above the river, pull onto the front face, and climb the arete and wall (or grubby easy ground further right) to a big thread. Swing up and left to enter the hanging groove, and finish spectacularly over the left-hand side of the capping overhang. © ROCKFAX
FA. Ed Ward-Drummond, Hamish Green-Armytage 1972

Ticklists: Extreme Rock, Peak Rock/10/White Life, Ultimate E1 ticklist.

Photo: Nick above the biology class, Easter Island © caradoc
View all 5 photos or Submit a new photo of this climb.

PUBLIC LOGBOOKS
This climb is in 186 logbooks, and on 31 wishlists.

Really good pitch, had quite a bit of rope drag at the top as I didn't extend my runners far enough. Excellent top groove and the 1st section is quite intimidating till you get moving
SGD - Lead O/S - 07/Sep/14 with phil wilkinson

Chossy but good gear
david morse - Lead O/S - 24/Aug/14 with KT

Hidden - 2nd dnf - 24/Aug/14

cem - 2nd rpt - 09/Aug/14 with Graeme Hammond

Rock and climbing better than expected, people who find it loose & vegetated must be climbing off route to the right as all the rock is clean and solid all the way. Gear at the crux a little fiddly to get right but is steep rather than hard. Glad of jams at the top as got a bit pumped. Good to finally do and glad not to have an epic in front of the crowds :)
Graeme Hammond - Lead O/S - 09/Aug/14 with Charles

Good climb, took a while to commit to the crux, was a bit goey.
Jim Slater - Lead O/S - 27/Jul/14 with Williams

gkrgeorge - Lead dog - 27/Jul/14

Worth doing to get to the top of the pinnacle. Some nice moves mixed in with some dubious rock. Feels steep and serious all the way with some intimidating run outs. The top section is the most fun.
gavinpeach - Lead O/S - 20/Jul/14 with Hellen

helin - 2nd - 20/Jul/14 with gavin

Hidden - Lead O/S - 15/Jul/14

Tim Rodgers - 2nd - 30/Jun/14 with Mike Lea

JasTaplin - 2nd - 01/Jun/14 with Jonathan Wells

J.Wells - Lead O/S - 01/Jun/14 with Jasmine Taplin

ColinD - Lead - 31/May/14 with Craig

belay bunny turned bad - Lead O/S - 17/May/14 with al

Hidden - 2nd - 17/May/14

ace!
john lynch - Lead O/S - 15/Apr/14 with Lewis Andrew

j.buckley87 - 06/Oct/13

Hidden - Lead O/S - 08/Sep/13

tricky, good lead by fab. got a round of applause at the top!!
leon - 2nd O/S - 08/Sep/13 with fabricio

Hidden - 2nd - 18/Aug/13

Quality moves, did not encounter any choss whatsoever. The runout from the leftward slanting crack of white edge to the thread felt very serious though.
duzinga - Lead O/S - 10/Aug/13

jamie ward - 2nd - 27/Jul/13 with Marcus Harvey

Jake Young - Lead O/S - 17/Jul/13

Hidden - Lead O/S - 13/Jul/13

ambrooker - 2nd O/S - 01/Jun/13 with Tom

Been meaning to do this for ages. Great position but climbing not exceptional
chiverstom - Lead O/S - 01/Jun/13 with Alice

Awesome route, definitely top end E1.
tatz45 - Lead O/S - 27/May/13 with Katy Vose

captain - 2013

ejected - 2013

andybirtwistle - 2013

Andy Peak 1 - Lead - 08/Sep/12 with H washbrook

Wet, slimy, dirty and loose.
Rachel Slater - Lead O/S - 18/Aug/12 with Chi Huo Cheng

Wet.
Chi Cheng - 2nd O/S - 18/Aug/12 with Rachel Stater

Sophie Nunn - Lead O/S - 11/Aug/12 with Sion, Phil

Colin Scotchford - Lead - 15/Jul/12

Was really wet in places so had to go left a bit more than I would of liked and it made the crux feel tricky. Top didn't feel pumpy at all. Good route, better location.
Jonathan Hall - Lead - 07/Jul/12 with Hannah Moulton

Hidden - 2nd - 07/Jul/12

riddle - Lead O/S - 30/Jun/12 with Mike Stephenson

mikeyjbs - 2nd - 30/Jun/12 with Roger Hamilton-Smith

I enjoyed this one, bit nervous with all the crowds watching but it was straightforward, pumpy at the end. Nick got a round of applause when he finished.
caradoc - Lead O/S - 14/Jun/12 with nick yapp

chrism225 - Lead O/S - 10/Jun/12 with jonny

Hidden - Lead O/S - 04/Jun/12

dan gibson - 2nd O/S - 04/Jun/12 with michael porter

Hidden - Lead - 22/May/12

tlmarjot - Lead dog - 13/May/12 with Mark Almack

markalmack - 2nd O/S - 13/May/12 with tim marjot

Went wrong way at top - did not go left. Have to do again now!
Dizz - Lead - 11/Mar/12 with Matt K

Martin Haworth - Lead O/S - 10/Mar/12 with John Brannock

Brannock - 2nd - 10/Mar/12

Bob - 2012

Hidden - 2012

captain dringo - 2012

adie84 - 2012

Tony Kartawick - 2012

Hidden - 2012

Hidden - Lead O/S - 2012

Probably the worst route in Extreme Rock
Rob Greenwood - UKC - Lead O/S - 2012 with Tim Hill

Hidden - Lead O/S - 16/Oct/11

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 01/Oct/11

bigie bob - Lead O/S - 23/Sep/11

Hidden - 2nd dog - 20/Aug/11

drysori - Lead O/S - 20/Aug/11 with Jesamine

richardr - Lead O/S - 31/Jul/11

Hidden - Lead O/S - 23/Jul/11

For such a classic route, it is a bit of a non-line. Dissapointing.
Brian Rodgers - 2nd rpt - 26/Jun/11 with Mike Todd

Soon after I started climbing, the heavens opened... I got properly scared on slimestones and it took ages to complete the route. Thank God, at least the gear is good. Good route, though!
masa-alpin - Lead O/S - 18/Jun/11 with Matt B

HamishD - Lead O/S - May/11 with Chris Clarke

Good clean climb as I did it, though went onto the White Edge for it's top section...couldn't resist what seemed the obvious way and the "right" way looked chossy. Very good! Wicked belay an position on the climb above the river.
thomasadixon - Lead RP - 20/Apr/11 with Becca

Chriswallis2 - Lead O/S - 09/Apr/11 with Anna

Jack Geldard - UKC Chief Editor - 2011

GeoffG - 2011

PAJames - 2011

thebigfriendlymoose - 2011

The first E1 ive done for a while. Great psoition and all the attention from passers by is always nice, climbing bit grubby and lose in places. Overall great route through. Abbed off the chins at the other end of the rock.
Brannock - Lead O/S - 12/Oct/10

vanderz - Lead O/S - 12/Sep/10 with patrick dawson

Hannes B - Lead O/S - 27/Aug/10 with Rik

drcorbasisgod - 2nd rpt - 25/Jul/10 with Mark O'Neill

Dogmusher - Lead O/S - 25/Jul/10 with chris parson

Ant Man Bee - Lead O/S - 03/Jul/10 with Charles Moreton

cem - 2nd rpt - 03/Jul/10 with Paul Bolton

Felt a bit ran out without microwires for the crux. Good belay at the top of route, then scramble along the top to obvious tat and chain to ab off. Fine route, and good rock.
mark20 - Lead O/S - 27/Jun/10

bigdrew - 2nd rpt - 27/Jun/10 with Mark R

Have been wanting to do this for a while. Excellent climbing and positions. Didn't find the abseil chains as they are slightly below the top of the pinnacle (later saw them clearly marked in the guide book photo...) so lowered off a bit of tat. That was fine but then the ropes wouldn't pull through, so ended up spending an hour freeing them - had to scramble with one of the free ends up tottering vegetation opposite the pinnacle until just above the top of the pinnacle and pull the rope from there, which worked (was beginning to contemplate climbing back up on the free ends!). The vegetated section to the right of the route doesn't intrude at all.
Misha - Lead O/S - 16/May/10 with Paul

zombie_pat - 2nd O/S - 15/May/10 with Pete

GF - 2010

Hidden - Lead - 2010

Seymore Butt - 2010

Fell off and ripped 2 cams out. Came down to sort myself out before I decided to get back on it. Was on a bit of a mission to do it as it was Dan's last time in the peak for a year. I'll go back for the flash one day!. Oh got the abseil ropes stuck so had to prussic back up in the dark, good times!
mlmatt - Lead - 10/Oct/09 with Dan Masterman

snakebite - 2nd O/S - 10/Oct/09 with Matt Reynolds

Only my 4th ever E1 on limestone, absolutely loved it. Found it hard work in places, but you get good rests after the hard bits. Crux protected by bomber microwire or iffy rock 1, you choose! Took me a long time (an hour ish), and even the crowds got bored. Hardly a flamboyant ascent, but still found it absolutely awsome.
Sam1991 - Lead O/S - 18/Aug/09 with Mark

bigdrew - 2nd dog - 18/Aug/09 with Mark R, Sam Dixon

Hidden - 2nd rpt - 15/Aug/09

Had a torrid time on epic (90min?) ascent, foolishly venturing left around the arete about 6m prematurely onto the steep E3 rather than straight up the right wall (trending right-ish) to the giant thread. Pumped silly, rested on one decrepid peg above the huge jug on White Edge and, with mojo crushed, again at the top groove. First E1 failure in ages and a v public humbling on a sunny summer Sunday, one to come back to.
Owen W-G - Lead dog - 09/Aug/09 with Si & Andy

sdht - Lead - Aug/09 with Jill

did it right this time, last time i did the white edge, some cool sections, but, clearly trying to make a route where there isnt really one.
Alex Mason - Lead O/S - 25/Jul/09 with Tom Martin

Brown - Lead O/S - 04/Jul/09 with Henry

miastacey - 2nd - 04/Jul/09 with Heather Clarke

I loved the attention! Technical and exposed, but felt easy compared to other local E1s; maybe I went off route a little? I tried to stay plum to the arete though...
porridgefan - Lead O/S - 28/Jun/09 with Niall Francis

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 28/Jun/09

Mr Powly - Lead O/S - 2009 with Pete Graham

Hidden - Lead O/S - 19/Sep/08

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 19/Sep/08

Tough at the grade...
Different Steve - Lead O/S - 23/Aug/08 with Clio

Clee - 2nd - 23/Aug/08 with Steve

great position, but escapable, and poor/easy climbing after the crux moves.
IanJackson - Lead - 23/Jun/08

JDSwain - 2nd - 23/Jun/08 with Ian Jackson

willackers - Lead O/S - 08/Jun/08 with Tom Mills

Brian Rodgers - 2nd - 21/May/08 with Phil Leng

Paul Bowen - Lead O/S - 10/May/08 with Rebecca Hayes

and zaff
WB - Lead O/S - 10/May/08 with Guy

Hidden - 2nd - 10/May/08

Mr Powly - Lead dog - 06/May/08 with Pete Graham

i cant possibly imagine trending off right into the crappy moss. Stick to the direct arete and its pretty brilliant climbing, certainly not over rated...how could a climb in this position be anything but awesome
Silum - Lead O/S - 2008 with Tom

tuftynick - 2008

bourney - Lead O/S - Sep/07

juza - Lead - 13/Aug/07

Dave Bond - Lead O/S - 30/Jul/07 with charles

Came off once tryign to go direct up the arete, which seemed desperate. Slunk off right and followed the easier ground up to the thread (as Neil had), then went back left round the arete and up the groove (pumpy). Some good climbing but wandering that much and a lot of muck and loose stuff - not great. Direct up the arete all the way to the thread is no doubt betetr but felt really hard.
Si dH - 2nd dog - 24/May/07 with Neil Furniss

Hidden - Lead O/S - 22/Apr/07

Sankey - 2nd dog - 21/Apr/07 with Luke

thebigfriendlymoose - Lead O/S - 21/Apr/07 with Stephen

Toby Dunn - 2007

got confused with this one ended up on the white edge, which interestingly was the only bit of quality climbing i found on my route!
Alex Mason - Lead O/S - 07/Aug/06 with Steve Ramsden

Whitt - 2nd dog - 17/Jul/06 with Andy

Hidden - Lead dog - 16/Jul/06

a long haul
colin milton - Lead - 12/Jul/06 with pep

Apharri - Lead O/S - Jul/06 with Dave Wharton

Bern - 2006

mark s - Lead O/S - 2006 with andi t

Hidden - Lead O/S - 2006

Okecroak - Lead - 19/Sep/03 with J Teale

cem - Lead O/S - 05/Jul/03 with Rod Strachan

sadams - Lead - 18/Apr/01 with Tom Briggs

Dave Rumney - Lead - 28/Aug/00 with Kev Sales

goi.ashmore - Lead O/S - 14/May/00 with Iain Fisher

Tom Briggs - Jagged Globe - Lead - 2000

philhilo - 2000

Tim M - 2000

marcoleptic - Lead - 2000

Trobbo - 20/Mar/99 with andy hartley

2nd: Mike. 1998?
Gary Coggon - Lead O/S - 1998 with Mike Block

phardman - 1997

Hidden - Lead O/S - 29/Jun/95

andyblain - Lead O/S - Jun/95

Shite.
Ian Jones - Lead O/S - 1995 with Karen Ghiselli

Glenn Sutcliffe - 1995 with keefe

Cowflinger - Lead O/S - Aug/94 with Andy Sharp

Marti999 - Lead O/S - May/94

Sean Kelly - Apr/94 with Rick Kruze

Andy Say - Lead - 03/May/92

Hidden - Lead - 1992

andrew300169 - Lead dog - 1992 with Tim

Roget - Lead O/S - 24/Mar/91 with casper

Bern - 1991

ChrisJD - Lead - 1991 with Alex

Hidden - 2nd - 27/May/90

Bruce Kerr - 2nd - 17/Mar/90 with George MacIntyre

Hidden - Lead O/S - 1990

keefe - 1990

Steve Lenartowicz - 2nd - 1990 with John N

Dave Musgrove - 2nd - 09/Aug/89 with David

Dave Musgrove Jnr - Lead - 09/Aug/89 with Dad

Hidden - Lead O/S - Aug/88

Hidden - Lead O/S - 1988

rogerskews - 2nd - 1987 with Steve Walker

William Robertson - Lead O/S - 1987 with Emily, Steve, Shaun etc

shark - 2nd - 08/Oct/86 with Chris

Hidden - 2nd - 21/Sep/86

Hidden - 2nd - 27/Jul/86

David Smith - Lead - 1986 with Andrew (Pog) Horn

Hidden - 2nd - 05/Oct/85

Ian Clare - 1985

andy gittins - 1985

charlesmfrench - Lead O/S - 24/Apr/84

Hidden - 2nd - 29/Aug/83

stp - Lead O/S - 09/Apr/83

First E1
Gezzer - Lead O/S - 1983 with Derek Shaw

Hidden - Lead - 05/Jun/82

Mike Owen - 16/May/82 with Phil Ralph

Andy Stephenson - Lead O/S - 01/Sep/81 with Chris Plant

Hidden - Lead O/S - Jun/81

Hidden - 2nd - Jun/80

robinsi197 - AltLd - 1980 with Barbara

Hidden - 1980

petemeads - Lead O/S - 17/May/76

Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
Alan100, prcleary, hutchay, simon pape, Hidden, Blake, Hidden, Hidden, sgl0jd, paulpitcher, atom, Hidden, Hidden, Alex.M-M., morpcat, Binder, iceaxejuggler, Ouncepounce, Hidden, Templeton Adams, Dan Lane, stemill, Owen W-G, monsteratt, Hidden, climbingrev, LittleJoe, Hidden, tatz45, Daniel Wrightson, Hidden

Voting
Total votes cast 119
hard E20 of 41
E20 of 41
easy E24 of 41
hard E117 of 41
E118 of 41
easy E11 of 41
hard HVS1 of 41
HVS0 of 41
easy HVS0 of 41
hard 5c0 of 40
5c0 of 40
easy 5c1 of 40
hard 5b18 of 40
5b18 of 40
easy 5b3 of 40
hard 5a0 of 40
5a0 of 40
easy 5a0 of 40
3 Stars14 of 38
2 Stars13 of 38
1 Star11 of 38
0 Stars0 of 38
Bag of .....0 of 38
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Style of ascent

Lead107 of 186 (57.5%)
Followed47 of 186 (25.3%)
Alt Leads1 of 186 (0.5%)
Unknown31 of 186 (16.7%)

'Climbed'80 of 186 (43.0%)
clean O/S87 of 186 (46.8%)
clean rpt6 of 186 (3.2%)
clean RP1 of 186 (0.5%)
dogged11 of 186 (5.9%)
dnf1 of 186 (0.5%)