Almost a great classic, though the grassy grot just to the right of the lower section is a bit of a spoiler - you will either love it or hate it. Care with the ropework is required. From the gearing-up ledge above the river, pull onto the front face, and climb the arete and wall (or grubby easy ground further right) to a big thread. Swing up and left to enter the hanging groove, and finish spectacularly over the left-hand side of the capping overhang. © Rockfax
FA. Ed Ward-Drummond, Hamish Green-Armytage 1972
|Climber||Date||Style||Notes & Partners|
|chris fox||29/Sep||Lead rpt||
climbed to get access for a Headpoint on The Gladiator.
|Mike Hegarty||20/Sep||Lead O/S||
|chris fox||05/Sep||Lead O/S||
Made it into a mini epic for the watching masses !
In the rockfax it says up the face or arete or head rightwards. I wonder if the difference in difficuulty between these ways is quite significant. i went rightwards and never found a 5b move on the route. hence it felt very soft for the grade. I was constantly waiting for a hard part and then found myself jug hauling over the overhang. nevertheless a great route
Great route, was a bit nervous about having an audience to start with but soon forgot about it. last section looks intimidating but there are lots of good jugs all the way up.
Tom riddlesdell, islandlynx
Soft for the grade but a fantastic route with awesome exposure...and an encouraging crowd of spectators!
Alex Horton, Shane Williams
Think I took an easy option further right than the true e1 climb. Cracking route, though
Sadly not quite as brilliant as it looks from over the river. Last section is quite steep and provides a good contrast to the lower bit.
|Dan Hostford||25/Jul||Lead O/S||
A bit loose
|Nigel Bond||01/Jul||Lead O/S||
Enjoyed this one. Finding the ab was the hardest bit (chain is a little hidden)
Really good pitch, had quite a bit of rope drag at the top as I didn't extend my runners far enough. Excellent top groove and the 1st section is quite intimidating till you get moving
|david morse||24/Aug/14||Lead O/S||
Chossy but good gear
|Graeme Hammond||09/Aug/14||Lead O/S||
Rock and climbing better than expected, people who find it loose & vegetated must be climbing off route to the right as all the rock is clean and solid all the way. Gear at the crux a little fiddly to get right but is steep rather than hard. Glad of jams at the top as got a bit pumped. Good to finally do and glad not to have an epic in front of the crowds :)
|Jim Slater||27/Jul/14||Lead O/S||
Good climb, took a while to commit to the crux, was a bit goey.
Worth doing to get to the top of the pinnacle. Some nice moves mixed in with some dubious rock. Feels steep and serious all the way with some intimidating run outs. The top section is the most fun.
|belay bunny turned bad||17/May/14||Lead O/S|
|john lynch||15/Apr/14||Lead O/S||
tricky, good lead by fab. got a round of applause at the top!!
Quality moves, did not encounter any choss whatsoever. The runout from the leftward slanting crack of white edge to the thread felt very serious though.
|Jake Young||17/Jul/13||Lead O/S|
Been meaning to do this for ages. Great position but climbing not exceptional
Awesome route, definitely top end E1.
|Andy Peak 1||08/Sep/12||Lead||
|Rachel Slater||18/Aug/12||Lead O/S||
Wet, slimy, dirty and loose.
|Chi Cheng||18/Aug/12||2nd O/S||
|Sophie Nunn||11/Aug/12||Lead O/S||
Was really wet in places so had to go left a bit more than I would of liked and it made the crux feel tricky. Top didn't feel pumpy at all. Good route, better location.
I enjoyed this one, bit nervous with all the crowds watching but it was straightforward, pumpy at the end. Nick got a round of applause when he finished.
|dan gibson||04/Jun/12||2nd O/S||
|Dave Turnbull, BMC||22/May/12||Lead||
Went wrong way at top - did not go left. Have to do again now!
|Martin Haworth||10/Mar/12||Lead O/S|
|Rob Greenwood - UKClimbing||??/2012||Lead O/S||
Probably the worst route in Extreme Rock
|bigie bob||23/Sep/11||Lead O/S|
|Brian Rodgers||26/Jun/11||2nd rpt||
For such a classic route, it is a bit of a non-line. Dissapointing.
Soon after I started climbing, the heavens opened... I got properly scared on slimestones and it took ages to complete the route. Thank God, at least the gear is good. Good route, though!
Good clean climb as I did it, though went onto the White Edge for it's top section...couldn't resist what seemed the obvious way and the "right" way looked chossy. Very good! Wicked belay an position on the climb above the river.
|Jack Geldard - UKC Chief Editor||??/2011||-|
The first E1 ive done for a while. Great psoition and all the attention from passers by is always nice, climbing bit grubby and lose in places. Overall great route through. Abbed off the chins at the other end of the rock.
|Hannes B||27/Aug/10||Lead O/S|
Felt a bit ran out without microwires for the crux. Good belay at the top of route, then scramble along the top to obvious tat and chain to ab off. Fine route, and good rock.
Have been wanting to do this for a while. Excellent climbing and positions. Didn't find the abseil chains as they are slightly below the top of the pinnacle (later saw them clearly marked in the guide book photo...) so lowered off a bit of tat. That was fine but then the ropes wouldn't pull through, so ended up spending an hour freeing them - had to scramble with one of the free ends up tottering vegetation opposite the pinnacle until just above the top of the pinnacle and pull the rope from there, which worked (was beginning to contemplate climbing back up on the free ends!). The vegetated section to the right of the route doesn't intrude at all.
Fell off and ripped 2 cams out. Came down to sort myself out before I decided to get back on it. Was on a bit of a mission to do it as it was Dan's last time in the peak for a year. I'll go back for the flash one day!. Oh got the abseil ropes stuck so had to prussic back up in the dark, good times!
Only my 4th ever E1 on limestone, absolutely loved it. Found it hard work in places, but you get good rests after the hard bits. Crux protected by bomber microwire or iffy rock 1, you choose! Took me a long time (an hour ish), and even the crowds got bored. Hardly a flamboyant ascent, but still found it absolutely awsome.
|Owen W-G||09/Aug/09||Lead dog||
Had a torrid time on epic (90min?) ascent, foolishly venturing left around the arete about 6m prematurely onto the steep E3 rather than straight up the right wall (trending right-ish) to the giant thread. Pumped silly, rested on one decrepid peg above the huge jug on White Edge and, with mojo crushed, again at the top groove. First E1 failure in ages and a v public humbling on a sunny summer Sunday, one to come back to.
Si & Andy
|Alex Mason||25/Jul/09||Lead O/S||
did it right this time, last time i did the white edge, some cool sections, but, clearly trying to make a route where there isnt really one.
I loved the attention! Technical and exposed, but felt easy compared to other local E1s; maybe I went off route a little? I tried to stay plum to the arete though...
|Mr Powly||??/2009||Lead O/S|
|Different Steve||23/Aug/08||Lead O/S||
Tough at the grade...
great position, but escapable, and poor/easy climbing after the crux moves.
|Paul Bowen||10/May/08||Lead O/S|
|Mr Powly||06/May/08||Lead dog|
i cant possibly imagine trending off right into the crappy moss. Stick to the direct arete and its pretty brilliant climbing, certainly not over rated...how could a climb in this position be anything but awesome
|Dave Bond||30/Jul/07||Lead O/S||
|Si dH||24/May/07||2nd dog||
Came off once tryign to go direct up the arete, which seemed desperate. Slunk off right and followed the easier ground up to the thread (as Neil had), then went back left round the arete and up the groove (pumpy). Some good climbing but wandering that much and a lot of muck and loose stuff - not great. Direct up the arete all the way to the thread is no doubt betetr but felt really hard.
|Alex Mason||07/Aug/06||Lead O/S||
got confused with this one ended up on the white edge, which interestingly was the only bit of quality climbing i found on my route!
a long haul
|Tom Briggs - Jagged Globe||??/2000||Lead|
|Gary Coggon||??/1998||Lead O/S||
2nd: Mike. 1998?
|Ian Jones||??/1995||Lead O/S||
I really can't remember much about this climb as it made such a lasting impression...?
|Dave Musgrove Jnr||09/Aug/89||Lead|
|William Robertson||??/1987||Lead O/S||
Emily, Steve, Shaun etc
Andrew (Pog) Horn
|Andy Edgar||??/1986||Lead O/S||
Long over due ascent, enjoyable but not great
|Andy Stephenson||01/Sep/81||Lead O/S||