Restricted Access
The BMC has an agreement with the National Trust for fixed equipment in the dale. Put simply this is that like for like maintenance/replacement can take place as and when is needed but placement of new bolts would require agreement through the Peak Area meeting followed by approaching the National Trust for permission. There isn't a presumption of refusal by any means, but the National Trust understandably want to keep track of bolting activity in the Dale and in some cases they may need to apply for SSSI consent as landowner. The National Trust are extremely supportive of climbing in all it's forms in the Dale and it's important that we continue to cultivate our good relationship with them to ensure our needs as climbers are considered into the future.
Seasonal Restrictions
Dates: 1 March to 30 June
Reason: Nesting Birds
- Tissington Spires - please avoid all routes on South Gully Buttress (Zulu Dawn to Amoeba inclusive) during the restriction period.
- Ravens Tor - due to the nest location the whole crag is to be avoided for the restriction period.
Rockfax Description
Only a small independent section but worth a separate entry.
Climb the short wall to a good ledge (possible belay). Climb through the bulge then continue direct up the slab. Move left to the finish of Ten Craters.... © Rockfax
Feedback
| User | Date | Notes | ||
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Dr Matt | 30 Jun, 2022 |
Show βeta
βeta: Building on from, but disagreeing in part with, the Feedback from Paul Sagar - I DID follow the original described line of Simeon straight up from the mid-way ledge to the ring-peg and continued onward straight up as per Simeon Direct, and certainly agree that the initial moves to and past the peg were harder than VS 4c. But it was doable, if reachy (I'm tall), very good, and combined with the 'Simeon Direct' section above and then the crux finish of Ten Craters made for a really good sustained and direct line at tough HVS 5a/b, though one of my 2nds, a better (and shorter) climber than me, thought maybe the whole combo was worth E1 5b. This certainly does IMO bump up the grade of the start of P2 of the normal Simeon, and the right trending part of that is becoming ivy-clad to boot. | βeta? | |
|
Show beta
βeta: Building on from, but disagreeing in part with, the Feedback from Paul Sagar - I DID follow the original described line of Simeon straight up from the mid-way ledge to the ring-peg and continued onward straight up as per Simeon Direct, and certainly agree that the initial moves to and past the peg were harder than VS 4c. But it was doable, if reachy (I'm tall), very good, and combined with the 'Simeon Direct' section above and then the crux finish of Ten Craters made for a really good sustained and direct line at tough HVS 5a/b, though one of my 2nds, a better (and shorter) climber than me, thought maybe the whole combo was worth E1 5b. This certainly does IMO bump up the grade of the start of P2 of the normal Simeon, and the right trending part of that is becoming ivy-clad to boot. |
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| Paul Sagar | 21 Apr, 2021 |
Show βeta
βeta: At the optional belay ledge, do NOT follow the line of Simeon through the bulge. Holds have gone on this section and it is now much, much harder than VS and even if the peg holds you will hit the ledge below (I did). Go up the start of Ten Craters and traverse over to do the HVS section of this, then finish up Ten Craters because the top of Simeon is smothered by the yew tree now. | βeta? | |
|
Show beta
βeta: At the optional belay ledge, do NOT follow the line of Simeon through the bulge. Holds have gone on this section and it is now much, much harder than VS and even if the peg holds you will hit the ledge below (I did). Go up the start of Ten Craters and traverse over to do the HVS section of this, then finish up Ten Craters because the top of Simeon is smothered by the yew tree now. |
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| Chris the Tall | 13 Aug, 2007 |
Show βeta
βeta: Nice route on great holds, pretty logical line, as good as 10 craters and not much harder | βeta? | |
|
Show beta
βeta: Nice route on great holds, pretty logical line, as good as 10 craters and not much harder |
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Logged Ascents
Guidebooks for Dovedale
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Cave Crack
Grade: HVS 5a ***
(Laddow)