Rockfax Description
Tricky moves straight up the wall to a solid (non-yew) tree then continue in the same line to a fingery flake. Step right and press on to the remains of the big yew. Escape right along the break, or abseil from the fixed gear. Almost a sport route now with all the threads. © Rockfax

FA. Paul Nunn Jeff Morgan (1 sling) 1969 1970s

Ticklists: Ultimate E1 ticklist.

Gympaul 04/Oct -
admackie 19/Sep Lead rpt

easier than john peel

sopaz 19/Sep Lead
with Mackie
Hidden 05/Sep Lead O/S
Jonathan Hall 05/Sep Lead
simon1965 18/Aug Lead rpt
danJBA 18/Aug Lead O/S
with Simon
BTphonehome 19/Jul Lead O/S
with Kasha
kasha_gregson 18/Jul 2nd dog
with Bram
the power 17/Jul Lead dog

Haha fuck

with neil
nrhardy 17/Jul 2nd O/S
benw681 21/Jun Lead rpt

Fun route!

with Hannah
jimbonfire 30/May -
spidey 30/May 2nd

like a sport route

with Jimmy
jshields 16/May Lead

Repeat, lead, early'90s, great climb.

davewsargent 16/May Lead G/U
with jeff ingman, jon shields
Hidden ??/2015 -
cem 09/Aug/14 2nd rpt
Graeme Hammond 09/Aug/14 Lead O/S

Quality climbing with great moves on great rock, the E1 version of Ten Craters of Wisdom? Some of the institute threads are a bit overkill as it is easy to thread most of them yourself from rest positions, particularly the one behind the tree when you are standing on a big ledge!!

with Charles
derekb 07/Aug/14 Lead β

Led 1st time stepping l with 1 fall, rob led and stepped right so I did decent thing - led clean following right line

with Rob
dr_botnik 07/Aug/14 Lead dog
with derek
Hidden 15/Jul/14 Lead rpt
admackie 01/Jun/14 Lead

on phils gear

JasTaplin 01/Jun/14 2nd
the power 01/Jun/14 Lead dog

Got wrong handed fucked it up"TAKE!"haha

J.Wells 01/Jun/14 Lead O/S
Hidden 01/Jun/14 2nd
Hidden 31/May/14 Lead O/S
ColinD 31/May/14 Lead
with Craig
Robin Nichols 13/Apr/14 Lead O/S
with Roger
Hidden 13/Apr/14 Lead O/S
Bob ??/2014 -
Hidden ??/2014 -
Hidden ??/2014 -
Hidden 22/Sep/13 TR
Hidden 01/Sep/13 Lead O/S
leon 01/Sep/13 Lead O/S
jamie ward 27/Jul/13 2nd
with Marcus Harvey
ashtond6 27/Jul/13 Lead O/S

great route, lovely pockets & awesome moves even to the tree!

alp79 27/Jul/13 2nd
Hidden 27/May/13 Lead rpt
markalmack 27/May/13 2nd O/S
Si dH 25/May/13 2nd rpt
with Andy
GrantB 07/Sep/12 Lead

Sgrit - Nice Sport route!

Hidden 31/Aug/12 Lead O/S
JEP 18/Aug/12 2nd rpt
Batt 18/Aug/12 2nd O/S

Reachy for the short

with Dan
Dan Lane 18/Aug/12 Lead β

Great climbing on good holds all the way. Replaced all of the in-situ threads.

with Rach Batt
Hidden 15/Apr/12 Lead O/S
Pete Nugent 15/Apr/12 2nd dog

Good lead by Will, needed to pull on the gear on the crux section at 3/4 height. We abbed/lowered off from the tree above the dead yew.

with Will Taylor (LC&CC), Rod Campbell
Dizz 26/Mar/12 Lead

Reach issues ... Harder for the short i think! Rested to work it out as could not reach the crux holds! Used a small pocket desperately.

with Matt K
Hidden 25/Mar/12 2nd O/S
Martin Haworth 10/Mar/12 Lead O/S
MDowson 10/Mar/12 2nd O/S
with sam webb
Brannock 10/Mar/12 2nd rpt
PAJames ??/2012 -
Hidden ??/2012 -
cymjt ??/2012 -
Hidden 16/Oct/11 Lead O/S
Hidden 03/Sep/11 Lead O/S
marcoleptic 30/Jun/11 Lead dog

Got crux wrong,Went low on traverse, should go right with right hand and high with left.

JEP 28/Jun/11 2nd rpt
Andy Hardy 28/Jun/11 Lead O/S
with Jonathon Prager
Hidden 26/Jun/11 Lead O/S
bigdrew 05/Jun/11 Lead β

On Marks gear.

with Mark R
mark20 05/Jun/11 Lead O/S
biobuild 19/May/11 2nd

first ever e1 i loved it!! amazing

Hidden 29/Apr/11 Lead O/S
Hidden 22/Apr/11 Lead O/S
Tom Seccombe 01/Jan/11 Lead O/S

Two pitches and two pitch abseil. I the wet

with Brother Nick
drysori 15/Aug/10 Lead O/S

Sport 6a. Only a couple of nuts needed. Really good.

with brannock
Brannock 15/Aug/10 2nd O/S
Cragrat Rich 04/Jun/10 Lead O/S

Great 'Sport Climb'!!

Hidden 04/Jun/10 Lead O/S
Hidden 22/Apr/10 Lead
Hidden ??/2010 Lead
Hidden 13/Sep/09 Lead O/S
Misha 05/Sep/09 Lead O/S

Juggy pockets a-plenty, very nice. Some moves looked hard but none actually were hard, don't think it's 5c. Climbed up to the tree from the left, looks there's a variation from the right past a thread. Four more threads on the route, getting a bit old but possible to back them up by threading slings or with other gear.

Brown 22/Aug/09 2nd O/S
with James T
Barry D 22/Aug/09 Lead
with Mel
metal arms 22/Aug/09 Lead O/S
Hidden 22/Aug/09 2nd
Owen W-G 09/Aug/09 Lead O/S

Pleasant and well-pro climbing. 2 cruxes, one (5b) to get off the tree and the second (5c) right near the top, but there's a few good nuts and insitu threads abound.

with Si & Andy
Hidden 14/Jul/09 Lead O/S
Si dH 14/Jul/09 2nd O/S
with Neil Furniss
mic_b 24/Jun/09 Lead O/S
with mrsbate
gazfellows 24/Jun/09 2nd
with shaun d
gazfellows 24/Jun/09 2nd
with shaun d
Hidden 23/Jun/09 2nd O/S
Hidden 24/Apr/09 Lead O/S
Jon Read 02/Aug/08 Lead
with Mark Sharrat & Andi Turner
Hidden 02/Aug/08 Lead O/S
Hidden 21/May/08 Lead
Ian Broome 14/Jul/07 Lead β
with Bob
Ropeboy 15/Apr/07 Lead
Coel Hellier 31/Mar/07 Lead
John Marsland 08/Jul/06 2nd
with Goi
goi.ashmore 08/Jul/06 Lead RP

Slipped off!

with John Marsland
Boy ??/2006 -
chrishedgehog 11/Oct/05 Lead O/S
with Erwin Bottomley
Chris the Tall 15/Jul/05 Lead rpt

Virtually a sports route but fine moves

Dave Bond 08/Sep/04 Lead O/S
with sharon
Hidden 17/Apr/04 Lead
Phill Mitch ??/2004 Lead O/S
with john d
cem 06/Jul/02 Lead O/S
with James Gregory
bullybones ??/2002 -
Budge 17/Sep/00 Lead
with Rich, Mike Oates
Hidden 09/Apr/00 Lead O/S
Hidden 20/Apr/97 Lead
Hidden 01/Mar/97 Lead
craig h 29/Apr/96 Lead O/S
with Janet Hannah
ian caton ?/Nov/95 Lead O/S
with Andy
andy_pemberton 28/Oct/95 Lead

v. nice. + seconded 12.5.1996

Gordon Stainforth 15/Oct/95 2nd
with Richard McHardy, Barbara McHardy, Steve Dean
Daniel Wrightson ?/Oct/95 Lead O/S
with Olivia Horner
Chris the Tall ?/Apr/95 Lead β
with Bill G
nickcanute ??/1995 Lead
Hidden 28/Aug/94 Lead
Marti999 ?/May/94 2nd O/S
with john
Backinthegame 19/Mar/94 Lead O/S
Gary Coggon ??/1994 Lead O/S
with Mike Block
robtrooper ??/1994 Lead O/S
Bruce Kerr 27/Mar/93 Lead
with Perric Crellin
Hidden 20/Sep/92 AltLd
Ena ?/Jul/92 Lead rpt


Rob Davies 20/Apr/92 Lead

Possibly another later date

with Angus McLean
Rob Davies 11/Apr/92 Lead
leathers 04/Apr/92 Lead O/S
with Martin Whittaker
AlanLittle 11/Mar/92 Lead
nai ??/1992 Lead
Hidden ??/1992 -
Roget 11/Aug/91 Lead O/S
with colin
tlr 04/Aug/91 Lead
with Pom
Hidden ?/Aug/91 Lead
Hidden 15/Jun/91 2nd
Ena ?/Jun/91 Lead β
Neil R 26/May/91 2nd
with Ed
NickJH ??/1991 -
Hidden 15/Oct/89 Lead
Michael Hood 16/Jul/89 Lead
babymoac 11/Jun/89 2nd
with Dave P, Vic L
Hidden 12/Jun/88 Lead
John Marsland 30/Aug/87 Lead
with Paul
Hidden 25/Jul/87 2nd
Hidden 31/May/87 Lead
Billg 19/Apr/87 2nd
with Dave Gregory
Stoney Boy ?/Oct/86 2nd O/S
with Phil Cundy, Steve Wigmore
Mike Owen 27/Jul/86 -
with Elaine Owen, Gavin Peat
Gezzer ??/1986 Lead O/S
with Merv Dudley
TonyF 01/May/85 -
Ian Clare ??/1985 -
andy gittins ??/1985 -
Hidden 06/Oct/84 Lead
neilh 23/Jul/84 Lead
John Marsland 21/Jul/84 2nd
with Dave Mould
Hidden 16/Jun/84 Lead dog
shark 09/Jun/84 Lead O/S
with Phill Dickens
AlanLittle ??/1984 Lead
with Carl Blakeley
Hidden 13/Nov/83 Lead
charlesmfrench 24/Sep/83 AltLd O/S


Hidden 07/May/83 Lead
Hidden 30/Apr/83 2nd
Hidden 08/Jul/82 Lead
Andy Stephenson 01/Sep/81 Lead O/S
with Chris Plant
Hidden ?/May/81 AltLd
uphillnow ??/1980 Lead
rogerskews ??/1978 AltLd
with Martin Coward
Nigel Bond 13/Sep/75 AltLd
with Ben Foord
mikej 18/Nov/73 Lead
with Geoff Williams
Andy Edgar ??/1972 Lead

It was given as VS with a point of aid, so free climbed it, as many people did I expect

with Mick Hardwick
Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
gavinpeach, hutchay, Hidden, Hidden, Hidden
High E2
Mid E2
Low E2
High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
High HVS
Votes cast 50
High 6a
Mid 6a
Low 6a
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
Votes cast 51
Votes cast 48
Style of ascent
Alt Leads
Not Set
Flashed (β)
Ground Up
Not Set