Llobet/Bertomeu*** 5c
[Getting the top pitch., 3 kb]275m, 7 pitches.

Rockfax Description
HVS. An old and popular climb, the route was fully bolted briefly, but most of these have been removed - carry a light rack. Although there is only one hard pitch, it is a fairly committing undertaking. Climbers have occasionally got into trouble by not traversing right far enough on P4 (and P7 ). Start by the steps opposite the old electricity house, by the old bridge. Take great care not to drop anything towards the road.
1) 3, 44m. Follow the pillar leftwards to a 'netting' belay.
2) 4, 44m. Up the rib above to where the ridge levels out.
3) 2, 50m. Scramble easily up the ridge to a grassy terrace and cross this to a peg belay below and left of a groove in the wall.
4) 4+, 46m. Climb up rightwards (bolt) to the groove, and climb it for 3m, then pull onto the right edge. Follow a line of cracks up the wall to threads and traverse right for 10m to a stance.
5) 5+, 36m. Climb the polished groove (pegs and a bolts) and continue in the same line to belay on threads and an old bolt.
6) 4+, 20m. Climb the wall left of the belay (bolt) to a short wall. Trend right (pegs) to a slab and an exposed stance.
7) 4, 36m. Continue traversing right to a groove (possible belay) climb this and slabs above to the top.
Descent - Use the Terrace Descent, or continue to the top via a scramble and a ridge walk across the top. To descend from here, traverse the ridge until you reach houses, descend through these then head back left to the Terrace Descent. © ROCKFAX

Photo: Getting the top pitch. © Biggo
View all 4 photos or Submit a new photo of this climb.

PUBLIC LOGBOOKS
This climb is in 96 logbooks, and on 8 wishlists.

A superb route, the crux pitch is the best out the lot, 5+ with loads of protection, the 4/4+ pitches are top end VS
jamie ward - Lead O/S - 04/Feb/15 with Ellis Blower

tompilgrem - AltLd O/S - 25/Dec/14 with Dad

A good way to spend Xmas day !
bobpilgrem - AltLd O/S - 25/Dec/14 with Tom

dmetcalfe - AltLd - 22/Nov/14

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 22/Nov/14

An excellent day out and a good 'trad' feel to much of it. The polished groove is definitely 6a if climbed clean! Wish we'd picked a cooler day, as we were roasting throughout, but a good adventure and spectacular views. Climbed with John Makin.
carlh - AltLd O/S - 31/Oct/14

Actually pulled on a quick draw on the polished 5+ groove - I blame the heavy sack! Enjoyable day. Tom and Ollie finish Boulder Terminar just before dark.
Tony Holdsworth - AltLd O/S - 07/Mar/14 with Mick Radford

i got the slimy groove pitch again...
Mick r - AltLd - 07/Mar/14 with Tony H

Trev speariett - AltLd - 2014

oliverpcain - AltLd O/S - 2014

Hidden - AltLd - 14/Dec/13

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 20/Nov/13

Jonny Harrison - 2nd O/S - 19/Nov/13 with Tom Hanlon

By far the best climb I done while here although the 5+ pitch is a bit of a sandbag, last pitch is in a great position.
scott mayled - Lead O/S - 17/Nov/13 with A student

tdoyle - AltLd O/S - 30/Oct/13 with Wilky, Foxy

Led 1st and 4th
Juan Ruiz - AltLd O/S - Jul/13 with David, Pablo Perea

DrJon - 2nd O/S - 08/May/13 with Henry, John

Hidden - 05/Nov/12

Great route watch out for the loose snake on the last pitch or was that Flake!!!!!!!!
martin one - Lead O/S - 05/Nov/12 with sarah

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 05/Nov/12

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 01/Nov/12

Day off from teaching. Excellent long and, at times, exposed route. 2nd pitch start is F5 and belay at the top of the long groove has several large and loose boulders poised to go, be careful.
Zoomer - AltLd - 23/May/12 with George Best

gingergeorge - AltLd - 23/May/12 with Glen Bloomer

Hidden - 2nd - 15/May/12

Funny and good but 2 stars are enought because of first and third pitches are a bag of sand and the sixth exposed stance is very old, so inoperating and you must to get to the top in 1 long aukwardy final pitch. Hard v+, suggest 6a.
Biggo - Lead O/S - 22/Apr/12 with Marta, Berta

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 04/Apr/12

Lev - AltLd O/S - 04/Apr/12 with Helen Ross, Adrian Ross, Emma Ross

Hidden - AltLd - 02/Apr/12

Should have read more route descriptions as we didn't traverse right far enough and ended up on something far harder that wasn't part of any route. Nice climb to that point, though.
JonnoP - AltLd - 30/Mar/12 with Paul Burke

sgl - AltLd - 18/Feb/12 with ben

Peter Metcalfe - Lead - 23/Dec/11 with Terry Sullivan, Cath Sullivan

7 pitch, 296 meters. HVS in the book but a pretty cheeky crack.
Ash_Johnson - AltLd O/S - Nov/11

Tenko - AltLd - 13/Oct/11 with Guy Williams

joscott - 2nd - Sep/11 with Sun and Rock

1918hasti - 2nd - 11/Jul/11

Goose4 - AltLd O/S - 01/Jul/11 with David Baggaley, Carl Mortimer

Chriswallis2 - Lead O/S - 23/Apr/11 with Anna

Great day out, highly recommended, watch out for loose holds tho, the descent from the terrace is well marked with cairns all the way down to the road. At the end of the 4th pitch traverse right along a ledge until you get to "UBSA" engraved into the rock, this will lead to the 5+ polished groove and not the harder looking groove you could end up on if you don't traverse far enough.
rgd1977 - Lead - 25/Mar/11

beckybray1 - 2nd - 25/Mar/11

lead pitches two ((4), four (4+), six (4+), and top half of seven (4). Seconded pitches pitch one (3), three (2), five (5+) and first half of seven (4).
matjam - AltLd - 17/Mar/11

1,3,5,7,9. pitch 5 is 6a I reckon. fantastic route, feels like trad - with bolts at the hard bits. had an epic on the descent; if you do the extra two pitches, don't assume the road will get you down easily; the terrace descent takes you over the AP7 and the railway - whereas the road doesn't. we took 7 hours from the gorge to the summit.
Jonathan Emett - AltLd O/S - 27/Dec/10 with karen

Trad. first 3 pitches only abbed off in rain
bigdan050 - AltLd dnf - 17/Nov/10 with steve H, steve R

31770 - 26/May/10 with Ian Johnson

toby2000 - Mar/10

auld al - AltLd - Jan/10

Adderbury Climber - 2nd O/S - 23/Nov/09 with Al Randal

Led pitches 1,3,5 & 7, good climbing worth the stars
John Roe - AltLd - 16/Nov/09 with Justin (Ratty) Burgoyne, Paul (Chips) Rafferty

Liam FLeming - AltLd - 05/Nov/09

Mark Fairhurst - AltLd O/S - 03/May/09

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 03/Feb/09

Hidden - AltLd - 02/Jan/09

gjd - AltLd - Dec/08 with Joe

John HW - AltLd - 29/Nov/08 with Cath

Moved together pitches 1, 3. Lead pitch 5.
RCrockford - AltLd O/S - 24/Nov/08 with Andy G, Andy C

Hidden - Lead - 09/Nov/08

gordon henderson - AltLd O/S - 22/Oct/08 with Chris

I only lead pitch 3 & 7
crisaitken - AltLd - 22/Oct/08 with gordonhend

barni - AltLd O/S - 02/May/08 with tom machine

Conan - Lead O/S - 23/Apr/08 with Richard Munro

Hidden - Lead - Apr/08

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 24/Mar/08

Danhan - AltLd - 23/Mar/08 with Nick

Hidden - AltLd - 23/Mar/08

Andrew Sloan - AltLd O/S - 13/Mar/08 with Steve Grove

mjeffery - AltLd O/S - 28/Feb/08

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 10/Feb/08

All the way from the river bed to the summit and back again in 10 pitches, some scrambing and a lot of walking. But a brilliant route with some stuuning exposure. Led the even pitches, mostly around 4/4+ and left Nick with the scrappy stuff and the polished crux
Chris the Tall - AltLd - 10/Feb/08 with Nick Smith

Phil PBC - 2008

haydng - AltLd O/S - 16/Nov/07 with Rachel

Awesome route .. just keeps on going. Before you now it your sitting at a stance that feels like your on top of the world.
Dax - AltLd O/S - 06/Nov/07 with Mike

The Bad Cough - AltLd O/S - 10/Oct/07 with John Nesbitt

Sylvi - AltLd - 18/Nov/06 with Andy L

Hidden - Lead O/S - 13/Nov/06

Hidden - AltLd - 18/Oct/06

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 09/Apr/06

A fantastic climb, highly recommended.
LAW - 2nd O/S - 24/Feb/06 with Justin N, Mark B

mikelaing - 2006

Ramon Marin - AltLd O/S - 25/Apr/05 with Gavin Lim

Hidden - AltLd - 2005

Chris Craggs - AltLd - Dec/04 with Dave Spencer

John Brayshaw - AltLd O/S - 19/Mar/04 with Chris

Hidden - AltLd - 2004

chrishedgehog - AltLd O/S - 01/May/02 with Joe Thompson

Hidden - 2nd - 13/Feb/02

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 13/Apr/01

cem - Lead O/S - 30/Nov/00 with Miles Butteriss

Hidden - 2nd - 10/Apr/00

tjekel - Dec/98

Shaw Brown - 15/Mar/97 with cliff brown

ed woods - Mar/97 with Rob & Winnick

steve prior - Lead - Feb/97 with Roz C

Mick r - AltLd O/S - 07/Mar/95 with Jim Marshall

Hidden - Lead O/S - 1995

Hidden - Lead O/S - 1993

Chris Ellis - AltLd O/S - 08/Dec/92 with Andy Barker

Budge - AltLd O/S - Feb/92 with Richard Teed

Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
joeydurkin, Robin Head, CrazedClimber, Alan100

Voting
Total votes cast 52
hard 6a0 of 27
6a1 of 27
easy 6a5 of 27
hard 5c17 of 27
5c4 of 27
easy 5c0 of 27
hard 5a0 of 27
5a0 of 27
easy 5a0 of 27
3 Stars18 of 25
2 Stars7 of 25
1 Star0 of 25
0 Stars0 of 25
Bag of .....0 of 25
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