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Llobet/Bertomeu*** 5c

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[Getting the top pitch., 3 kb]275m, 7 pitches. An old and popular climb long known as Vía UBSA. The route was fully bolted briefly but some of the gear has since been removed - carry a light rack. Although there is only one hard pitch, it is a fairly committing undertaking. Start by the steps opposite the old electricity house, by the old bridge. 1) 3, 44m. Follow the pillar leftwards to a ‘netting’ belay . 2) 4, 44m. Up the rib above to where the ridge levels out. 3) 2, 50m. Scramble easily up the ridge to a grassy terrace and cross this to a peg belay below and left of a groove in the wall. 4) 4+, 46m. Climb up right (bolt) to the groove, and climb it for 3m then pull onto the right edge. Follow a line of cracks up the wall to threads and traverse right for 10m to a stance. 5) 5+, 36m. Climb the polished groove (pegs and a bolts) and continue in the same line to belay on threads and an old bolt. 6) 4+, 20m. Climb the wall left of the belay (bolt) to a short wall. Trend right (pegs) to a slab and an exposed stance. 7) Continue traversing right to a groove, climb this and slabs above to the top. From here use the Terrace Descent or continue to the top. There are two more pleasant easy pitches, a scramble and a ridge walk across the top. To descend, traverse the ridge until you reach houses, descend through this then head back across the mountain to the Terrace Descent. © ROCKFAX

Photo: Getting the top pitch. © Biggo
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PUBLIC LOGBOOKS
This climb is in 85 logbooks, and on 9 wishlists.

Actually pulled on a quick draw on the polished 5+ groove - I blame the heavy sack! Enjoyable day. Tom and Ollie finish Boulder Terminar just before dark.
Tony Holdsworth - AltLd O/S - 07/Mar/14 with Mick Radford

i got the slimy groove pitch again...
Mick r - AltLd - 07/Mar/14 with Tony H

oliverpcain - AltLd O/S - 2014

Hidden - AltLd - 14/Dec/13

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 20/Nov/13

Jonny Harrison - 2nd O/S - 19/Nov/13 with Tom Hanlon

By far the best climb I done while here although the 5+ pitch is a bit of a sandbag, last pitch is in a great position.
scott mayled - Lead O/S - 17/Nov/13 with A student

tdoyle - AltLd O/S - 30/Oct/13 with Wilky, Foxy

DrJon - 2nd O/S - 08/May/13 with Henry, John

Hidden - 05/Nov/12

Great route watch out for the loose snake on the last pitch or was that Flake!!!!!!!!
martin one - Lead O/S - 05/Nov/12 with sarah

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 05/Nov/12

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 01/Nov/12

Day off from teaching. Excellent long and, at times, exposed route. 2nd pitch start is F5 and belay at the top of the long groove has several large and loose boulders poised to go, be careful.
Zoomer - AltLd - 23/May/12 with George Best

gingergeorge - AltLd - 23/May/12 with Glen Bloomer

Hidden - 2nd - 15/May/12

Funny and good but 2 stars are enought because of first and third pitches are a bag of sand and the sixth exposed stance is very old, so inoperating and you must to get to the top in 1 long aukwardy final pitch. Hard v+, suggest 6a.
Biggo - Lead O/S - 22/Apr/12 with Marta, Berta

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 04/Apr/12

Lev - AltLd O/S - 04/Apr/12 with Helen Ross, Adrian Ross, Emma Ross

Hidden - AltLd - 02/Apr/12

Should have read more route descriptions as we didn't traverse right far enough and ended up on something far harder that wasn't part of any route. Nice climb to that point, though.
JonnoP - AltLd - 30/Mar/12 with Paul Burke

sgl - AltLd - 18/Feb/12 with ben

Peter Metcalfe - Lead - 23/Dec/11 with Terry Sullivan, Cath Sullivan

7 pitch, 296 meters. HVS in the book but a pretty cheeky crack.
Ash_Johnson - AltLd O/S - Nov/11

Tenko - AltLd - 13/Oct/11 with Guy Williams

joscott - 2nd - Sep/11 with Sun and Rock

Goose4 - AltLd O/S - 01/Jul/11 with David Baggaley, Carl Mortimer

Chriswallis2 - Lead O/S - 23/Apr/11 with Anna

Great day out, highly recommended, watch out for loose holds tho, the descent from the terrace is well marked with cairns all the way down to the road. At the end of the 4th pitch traverse right along a ledge until you get to "UBSA" engraved into the rock, this will lead to the 5+ polished groove and not the harder looking groove you could end up on if you don't traverse far enough.
rgd1977 - Lead - 25/Mar/11

beckybray1 - 2nd - 25/Mar/11

lead pitches two ((4), four (4+), six (4+), and top half of seven (4). Seconded pitches pitch one (3), three (2), five (5+) and first half of seven (4).
matjam - AltLd - 17/Mar/11

1,3,5,7,9. pitch 5 is 6a I reckon. fantastic route, feels like trad - with bolts at the hard bits. had an epic on the descent; if you do the extra two pitches, don't assume the road will get you down easily; the terrace descent takes you over the AP7 and the railway - whereas the road doesn't. we took 7 hours from the gorge to the summit.
Jonathan Emett - AltLd O/S - 27/Dec/10 with karen

Trad. first 3 pitches only abbed off in rain
bigdan050 - AltLd dnf - 17/Nov/10 with steve H, steve R

31770 - 26/May/10 with Ian Johnson

toby2000 - Mar/10

auld al - AltLd - Jan/10

Adderbury Climber - 2nd O/S - 23/Nov/09 with Al Randal

Led pitches 1,3,5 & 7, good climbing worth the stars
John Roe - AltLd - 16/Nov/09 with Justin (Ratty) Burgoyne, Paul (Chips) Rafferty

Liam FLeming - AltLd - 05/Nov/09

Mark Fairhurst - AltLd O/S - 03/May/09

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 03/Feb/09

Hidden - AltLd - 02/Jan/09

gjd - AltLd - Dec/08 with Joe

John HW - AltLd - 29/Nov/08 with Cath

Moved together pitches 1, 3. Lead pitch 5.
RCrockford - AltLd O/S - 24/Nov/08 with Andy G, Andy C

Hidden - Lead - 09/Nov/08

gordon henderson - AltLd O/S - 22/Oct/08 with Chris

I only lead pitch 3 & 7
crisaitken - AltLd - 22/Oct/08 with gordonhend

barni - AltLd O/S - 02/May/08 with tom machine

Conan - Lead O/S - 23/Apr/08 with Richard Munro

Hidden - Lead - Apr/08

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 24/Mar/08

Danhan - AltLd - 23/Mar/08 with Nick

Andrew Sloan - AltLd O/S - 13/Mar/08 with Steve Grove

mjeffery - AltLd O/S - 28/Feb/08

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 10/Feb/08

All the way from the river bed to the summit and back again in 10 pitches, some scrambing and a lot of walking. But a brilliant route with some stuuning exposure. Led the even pitches, mostly around 4/4+ and left Nick with the scrappy stuff and the polished crux
Chris the Tall - AltLd - 10/Feb/08 with Nick Smith

Phil PBC - 2008

haydng - AltLd O/S - 16/Nov/07 with Rachel

Awesome route .. just keeps on going. Before you now it your sitting at a stance that feels like your on top of the world.
Dax - AltLd O/S - 06/Nov/07 with Mike

The Bad Cough - AltLd O/S - 10/Oct/07 with John Nesbitt

Sylvi - AltLd - 18/Nov/06 with Andy L

Hidden - Lead O/S - 13/Nov/06

Hidden - AltLd - 18/Oct/06

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 09/Apr/06

A fantastic climb, highly recommended.
LAW - 2nd O/S - 24/Feb/06 with Justin N, Mark B

mikelaing - 2006

Ramon Marin - AltLd O/S - 25/Apr/05 with Gavin Lim

Hidden - AltLd - 2005

Chris Craggs - AltLd - Dec/04 with Dave Spencer

John Brayshaw - AltLd O/S - 19/Mar/04 with Chris

Hidden - AltLd - 2004

chrishedgehog - AltLd O/S - 01/May/02 with Joe Thompson

Hidden - 2nd - 13/Feb/02

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 13/Apr/01

cem - Lead O/S - 30/Nov/00 with Miles Butteriss

Hidden - 2nd - 10/Apr/00

tjekel - Dec/98

Shaw Brown - 15/Mar/97 with cliff brown

ed woods - Mar/97 with Rob & Winnick

steve prior - Lead - Feb/97

Hidden - Lead O/S - 1995

Hidden - Lead O/S - 1993

Chris Ellis - AltLd O/S - 08/Dec/92 with Andy Barker

Budge - AltLd O/S - Feb/92 with Richard Teed

Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
Hidden, lgp81, joeydurkin, ST3V10, Robin Head, CrazedClimber, Hidden, Alan100, Hidden

Voting
Total votes cast 47
hard 6a0 of 24
6a0 of 24
easy 6a5 of 24
hard 5c16 of 24
5c3 of 24
easy 5c0 of 24
hard 5a0 of 24
5a0 of 24
easy 5a0 of 24
3 Stars17 of 23
2 Stars6 of 23
1 Star0 of 23
0 Stars0 of 23
Bag of .....0 of 23
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Style of ascent

Lead14 of 85 (16.5%)
Followed11 of 85 (12.9%)
Alt Leads52 of 85 (61.2%)
Unknown8 of 85 (9.4%)

'Climbed'41 of 85 (48.2%)
clean O/S43 of 85 (50.6%)
dnf1 of 85 (1.2%)