El Pajarón** 6a (e1)
207m, 6 pitches.

Rockfax Description
E1. The old classic of this wall. The approach is a bit scrappy, but after that it is solid and excellent. Full rack needed.
1) 3+, 55m. Scramble leftwards up vegetated rock to below a groove in the clean upper wall.
2) 6a, 38m. Bridge up the groove, then trend up and right for 10m before moving back left into the continuation groove. At its top, trend left to a small ledge.
3) 5+, 34m. Step right and climb up, then move right again into a hidden groove (pegs) which leads to a good stance.
4) 5+, 30m. Move up behind the stance into a slabby groove and follow the crack above to a stance out on the left.
5) 5, 30m. Follow the red corner (no fixed gear) and a flake on the left followed by cracks to a ledge.
6) 5, 20m. Continue to join Llobet/Bertomeu before its last pitch, then finish up it, or climb the steep groove on the left to the ridge. © ROCKFAX


FA. Salvador Guerola, Emilio Perales 1986
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PUBLIC LOGBOOKS
This climb is in 12 logbooks, and on 1 wishlist.

Hidden - AltLd - 09/Jan/13

a bit meh. top two pitches are the best... and one of those is shared with via UBSA! 6 hours on the route, lead p2,4,5,6,7. pitches 3,5 were a bit stiff for 5+, I agree with the old rockfax more than the new (3,6a,6a,6a,5+,5,5?) 'move up right to the continuation groove' should read '~10m rising traverse right and then back left up the now apparent continuation groove' lots of shonky bolts/pitons on the harder pitches.
Jonathan Emett - AltLd O/S - 18/Oct/12 with swedish marilyn

chri55ie - 2nd - 15/Apr/12 with Gill Male

Bailed about 20m up the 6a pitch (2). Found gear and rock quality very poor - several very large and loose holds including a huge flake. The newish bolt just above that was a bit of a godsend! What I did felt like E2 5a, lots of loose rock and little worthwhile gear. Not saying it isnt a good route mind - just not what I had been looking for. No doubt a great adventure if youre up to it! Worth noting that just above that flake there is a line of polished jugs adn a worn gear placement off right - these holds seem to lead to nowhere! I assume the line continues direct up the initial groove at this point as there was no 'continuation groove' to the right, but I didnt get any further.
Si dH - AltLd dnf - 28/Mar/09 with Neil Furniss

Jason Gotel - Lead - Apr/08 with Shiv

Bristoldave - AltLd O/S - 31/Dec/07 with Joe

Hidden - Lead O/S - 10/Feb/06

Hidden - AltLd - 2004

dickypips - AltLd O/S - Feb/01 with Steve James

Met Dave Booth following us up this. Plus another Dave.
charlesmfrench - AltLd O/S - 07/Jan/01 with Joe Coll

Hidden - AltLd - 02/Nov/97

Hidden - Lead O/S - 1995

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