El Pajarón** 6a (e1)
207m, 6 pitches. The old classic of this wall. The approach is a bit scrappy, but after that it is solid and excellent. Full rack needed. 1) 3+, 55m. Scramble leftwards up vegetated rock to below a groove in the clean upper wall. 2) 6a, 38m. Bridge up the groove then move up and right into the continuation groove. At its top, trend left to a small ledge. 3) 5+, 34m. Step right and climb up then move right again into a hidden groove (pegs) which leads to a good stance. 4) 5+, 30m. Move up behind the stance into a slabby groove and follow the crack above to a stance out on the left. 5) 5, 30m. Follow the red corner (no fixed gear) and a flake on the left followed by cracks to a ledge. 6) 5, 20m. Continue to join Llobet/Bertomeu before its last pitch then finish up it or climb the steep groove on the left to the ridge (5). © ROCKFAX
FA. Salvador Guerola, Emilio Perales 1986
PUBLIC LOGBOOKS
This climb is in 12 logbooks, and on 1 wishlist.

Hidden - AltLd - 09/Jan/13

a bit meh. top two pitches are the best... and one of those is shared with via UBSA! 6 hours on the route, lead p2,4,5,6,7. pitches 3,5 were a bit stiff for 5+, I agree with the old rockfax more than the new (3,6a,6a,6a,5+,5,5?) 'move up right to the continuation groove' should read '~10m rising traverse right and then back left up the now apparent continuation groove' lots of shonky bolts/pitons on the harder pitches.
Jonathan Emett - AltLd O/S - 18/Oct/12 with swedish marilyn

chri55ie - 2nd - 15/Apr/12 with Gill Male

Bailed about 20m up the 6a pitch (2). Found gear and rock quality very poor - several very large and loose holds including a huge flake. The newish bolt just above that was a bit of a godsend! What I did felt like E2 5a, lots of loose rock and little worthwhile gear. Not saying it isnt a good route mind - just not what I had been looking for. No doubt a great adventure if youre up to it! Worth noting that just above that flake there is a line of polished jugs adn a worn gear placement off right - these holds seem to lead to nowhere! I assume the line continues direct up the initial groove at this point as there was no 'continuation groove' to the right, but I didnt get any further.
Si dH - AltLd dnf - 28/Mar/09 with Neil Furniss

Jason Gotel - Lead - Apr/08 with Shiv

Bristoldave - AltLd O/S - 31/Dec/07 with Joe

Hidden - Lead O/S - 10/Feb/06

Hidden - AltLd - 2004

dickypips - AltLd O/S - Feb/01 with Steve James

Met Dave Booth following us up this. Plus another Dave.
charlesmfrench - AltLd O/S - 07/Jan/01 with Joe Coll

Hidden - AltLd - 02/Nov/97

Hidden - Lead O/S - 1995

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