186m, 6 pitches.

Rockfax Description
HVS. An impressive route with exciting positions. The first three pitches are fully bolted. Descent is possible from the top of pitch 3, but the upper section has some good climbing - including the crux (about HVS). Start by abseiling 25m from the left side (looking uphill) of the new road bridge, to a small ledge well above the base of the gorge.
1) 5+, 40m. Climb across to a detached pillar, then move up a wall and make a delicate traverse left to reach a cave.
2) 4+, 36m. Pull steeply into a groove and follow it to ledges.
3) 3, 20m. Scramble easily up a corner behind and onto a big ledge. You can escape leftwards here, back to the road, or scramble up the ramp to below a big red groove.
4) 5+, 40m. Climb the groove (easier than it looks) until you are forced left across a slab to a stance.
5) 4, 30m. Move left, then climb up another groove, past a hole. Big flakes lead to a stance with a tree, below a crack.
6) 5, 20m. The crack above the tree is awkward, but soon eases and leads to a rather sudden finish. A more direct finish 2m left of the tree is 6a. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
An impressive route with some exciting positions above the road. The first three pitches and the last one are fully bolted and descent is possible from the top of pitch 3 but the upper section does have some good climbing, including the crux pitch. Start by abseiling from the left-hand side (looking uphill) of the new road bridge, to a small ledge above the base of the gorge.
1) 5+, 40m. Climb across to a detached pillar, then move up a wall and make a delicate traverse left until you can reach a cave.
2) 4+, 36m. Pull steeply into the groove and follow it to ledges.
3) 3, 20m. Scramble easily up a corner behind and onto a big ledge. You can escape leftwards here, back to the road, or scramble up the ramp to below a big red groove
4) 5+, 40m. Climb the groove, with a single rusty "chain link" bolt at half height for protection, so take some big hexes and cams to protect the top, after which you are forced left across a slab (in situ pegs) to a stance.
5) 4, 30m. Traverse left round a corner, then climb up another groove, past a hole. Some big flakes lead to a stance (bolts) on a good ledge just above a tree. There is a crack to the right and a ramp with a small roof above the bolts.
6) 5, 20m. (Both variations now fully bolted) The crack is awkward but soon eases and leads to a rather sudden finish. The direct finish above the belay is 6a.

FA. Javier Motes, Moises García, Enrique Barberá, Ernesto López 1970s 1975


ClimberDateStyle
mikestr555 24/Nov/14 AltLd O/S

lead pitches 1,3,4

Oliver Branagan 07/Mar/14 AltLd O/S

Had an all day epic on this, pretty much from start to finish. Class! Will study more up to date guides before multibolt-tradding again. Listen to the approach and find out the descent. Some great climbing at harder than the suggested grade I'd say.

Reedymc 07/Mar/14 AltLd O/S

messed up the top section but sorted our self out.

Hidden 17/Dec/13 2nd O/S
John Pickles 17/Dec/13 Lead O/S
Hidden 28/Nov/12 2nd
saz_b 30/Mar/10 AltLd dnf

lead p1 - airy! harry p2, scott p3, 4. Got lost on p5, return via the train tracks!

with scott, harry b
mjeffery 01/Mar/10 Lead O/S
Phil PBC ??/2008 -
cem 02/Jan/06 AltLd O/S

Led p 2, 4 & 6

with Sally Dipple
uphillnow ??/1997 Lead
Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
Hidden, simonjkinsella, Alan100
Voting
High 6a
Mid 6a
Low 6a
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
Votes cast 8
Votes cast 8
Style of ascent
Alt Leads
Lead
Followed
Not Set
Onsighted
DNF
Not Set