|176m, 5 pitches. Another long route with two good lower pitches but it eases with height and the finish is a bit scrappy. Start from the old road bridge and walk across underneath the Cleoplaca wall. Scramble up a flake to the ledge under the wall, bolt belays.
1) 6a, 34m. Move left to gain the groove-line, which bounds the face on its left. Climb this, past a deep hole, and belay on a small ledge on the left.
2) 5+, 24m. Pull back right into the crack and follow it up the edge of the wall to a stance below steeper rock.
3) 4, 18m. Traverse directly across the slab on the right to the Cleoplaca belay. The sensible option is to abseil from here but:
4) 4+, 50m. Climb the grooves above taking care with the rock.
5) 4+, 50m. Follow the flakes to the left of the grooves then step back right to easy ground. Belay on the crest. © ROCKFAX|
FA. Juan Montesinos, Rafael Botella 1970s 1975