E1. Another long route with good lower pitches, but it eases with height and the finish is a bit scrappy. Start from the old road-bridge, and walk across underneath the Cleoplaca wall. Scramble up a flake to the ledge under the wall, bolt belays.
1) 6a, 34m. Move left to the groove on the left of the face. Climb this, past a deep hole, to a small ledge on the left.
2) 5+, 24m. Pull back right into the crack and follow it up the edge of the wall to a stance below steeper rock.
3) 4, 18m. Traverse directly across the slab on the right to the Cleoplaca belay. Abseil from here or:
4) 4+, 50m. Up the grooves above, take care with the rock.
5) 5, 50m. Follow the flakes to the left of the grooves, then step back right to easy ground. Belay on the crest. © Rockfax
FA. Juan Montesinos, Rafael Botella 1970s 1975