Rockfax Description
E1. Another long route with good lower pitches, but it eases with height and the finish is a bit scrappy. Start from the old road-bridge, and walk across underneath the Cleoplaca wall. Scramble up a flake to the ledge under the wall, bolt belays.1) 6a, 34m. Move left to the groove on the left of the face. Climb this, past a deep hole, to a small ledge on the left.2) 5+, 24m. Pull back right into the crack and follow it up the edge of the wall to a stance below steeper rock.3) 4, 18m. Traverse directly across the slab on the right to the Cleoplaca belay. Abseil from here or:4) 4+, 50m. Up the grooves above, take care with the rock.5) 5, 50m. Follow the flakes to the left of the grooves, then step back right to easy ground. Belay on the crest. © Rockfax
FA. Juan Montesinos, Rafael Botella 1970s 1975.
Feedback
| User | Date | Notes | ||
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Kyuzo | 9 Apr, 2005 |
Show βeta
βeta: Watch out for this route, I've been told by a couple of guys who just climbed it that the last two pitches are not 4+ and not 50m. They said they were rather scary and a lot harder than 4+. Probably more like 6a. | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: Watch out for this route, I've been told by a couple of guys who just climbed it that the last two pitches are not 4+ and not 50m. They said they were rather scary and a lot harder than 4+. Probably more like 6a. |
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Triple Direct
Grade: 6a ***
(Mascarat)