E1. A long route that starts in the bottom of the gorge and continues up the right-hand edge of the Cleoplaca wall. Carry a full rack.
1) 6a, 38m. Climb the lower wall leftwards then direct as possible. Eventually, climb via a flake to a stance (pegs) on the right.
2) 5+, 10m. Move left and make a hard move to reach the terrace below Cleoplaca. Belay on the bolts below the wall.
3) 6a, 30m. Climb awkwardly to gain a right-trending ramp-line which is followed with difficulty (spaced pegs) to a crack and stance on the right.
4) 6a, 25m. The crack above leads to the bolt belay at the top of Cleoplaca. Most folks abseil off from here (45m), but you can continue up Montesinos up the grooves directly above. © Rockfax