|103m, 4 pitches. A long route starting in the base of the gorge, between the two road bridges, and continuing up the right-hand edge of the Cleoplaca wall.
1) 6a, 38m. Climb the lower wall leftwards. then direct as possible. eventually via a flake to a stance (pegs) on the right.
2) 5+, 10m. Move left and make a hard move to reach the terrace below Cleoplaca. Belay on the bolts below the wall.
3) 6a, 30m. Climb awkwardly to gain a right-trending ramp line which is followed with difficulty (spaced peg runners) to a crack and stance on the right.
4) 6a, 25m. The crack above leads to the bolt belay at the top of Cleoplaca. Most folks abseil off from here (45m). However if you do need that summit sensation then continue up Montesinos which goes up the grooves directly above. © ROCKFAX|