Climb Near Right Gully (II) up to the head wall. Instead of traversing to the left to climb up the frozen turf position your self under the furthest most rock buttress on the head wall. There is a big shield of rock (get a rope tread behind this f...or the belay) then climb with difficulty up the off width crack to a small over hang. Get good axe placements and swing round on to the blank shield (really small edges for crampons). Place a crucial No 1 wire then go for the top via some dice hook and turf placements.
Andrew Foster and Micheal Napier 20/Dec/2011