Arthur Scargils Hair Piece E1 5b
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Looks can be deceiving... This looked fairly straight forward but proved otherwise. The climb starts up a slab with a good nut and thread runner to a bulge where you get more gear and then hard/blind moves you lead you over the bulge to easier ground, very poor runner lead you to what looked from the ground to be a short easy wall and top out. Clipped a nasty looking peg and placed a half desent cam and looked for solid rock. managed to get head and shoulders over the top when my fist sized foot hold crumbled so i rapidly reversed as the top out was loose rock and sandy wet mud with no desent grass to grab hold of. Tried several more times but the rock continued to crumble away and ended up asking my belayer to leave me tied off to the dodgy peg and cam and drop me a rope. This also proved interesting and involved 2 ab's to get to me (lucky we had taken some ground anchor stakes) an hour later I was safely back on the ground. What an epic! I recomend approaching all the routes from above so that a rope can be left in place to aid topping out and so any fixed gear can be inspected prior to committing to the lead.
SGD - Lead dnf - 23/Jan/12 with Jonny WMC

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