Primitive Route** VD
[Penultimate pitch, Primitive route, 2 kb]No description has been contributed for this climb.

Ticklists: North Wales Rock Graded List.

Photo: Penultimate pitch, Primitive route © caradoc
View all 3 photos or Submit a new photo of this climb.

This climb is in 32 logbooks, and on 10 wishlists.

(To the tune of My Ears Are Alight). Woke up in the morning wanting to climb Cloggy, Vegetated, bold, slimy and soggy! Ooh, ooh, rhyolite. I have no idea how this is graded as VD and no idea how it gets any stars at all, let alone the 3 stars in the Cloggy guide book. The gear is sparse over most of the route and you often find yourself run out grabbing at tufts of grass while your feet slide off slimy holds. This route is primitive in all ways. Some of the botanical specimens are from the lost world and most of the route is covered in a primordial soup. We had intended to climb Great Bow Combination but there was seepage on most of the route so we opted for something 'easy'. I was psyched to climb Cloggy but the effort to get there and this 5 hour epic make me not see any reason to return. Take some advice and avoid this route at all costs.
radddogg - AltLd O/S - 30/Aug/15 with Tom Richards

Bold, vegetated, is missing flake belay as has suffered rock fall and hard for the grade. The mossy corner is worth atleast hs and the twin grooves felt severe to me. At times heather pulling is required. Not worth stars. We escaped right after I couldn't find the flake belay and nearly run out of rope and had to make a micro cam belay to the right, but we'd done all the harder pitches.
CurlyStevo - AltLd - 21/Jun/14 with Rob

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 17/May/14

Vegetation (and some of the rock) a bit damp, gear a bit sparse on some pitches, a good mountain feel and nobody else on the crag
Steve Kempley - Lead O/S - 03/May/14 with Rosie, Paddy

Allanfairfechan - 2014

SimonvanDam - AltLd - 12/Aug/13 with Matt Roberts

roberts1234567890 - AltLd - 12/Aug/13 with Simon Van Dam, Callum Bridger

Climbed with Justin from Clip up Climbing.
dawp4810 - AltLd - 26/Jun/13

A very poor route, no real line, lots of wet grass, poor protection. It wasn't 'Idwalesque' and would make a horrible introduction to Cloggy.
caradoc - AltLd O/S - 26/Jun/13 with nick yapp

Whilst queing for white slab. idwal slab-esque.
Duncan Campbell - Solo O/S - 08/Jun/13 with Ollie B

Ollie B - Solo O/S - 08/Jun/13 with D.Campbell

Hidden - Lead - 27/Mar/12

Hidden - AltLd - 01/Oct/11

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 16/Jun/11

garethsteel - AltLd O/S - 16/Jun/11 with chris687

Bloody awful - did it on a windy day and everything at the top was dangerously loose for everyone below us.
batterj2 - 2nd O/S - 01/May/11 with Samian

Bond_Girl - 2nd - 22/Apr/11 with Ronald

Hidden - Lead - 22/Apr/11

My Dads first route
davidgent - Lead O/S - 05/Jun/10 with Dad

Graham Westbrook - AltLd O/S - Apr/10

Kind of agree with what everyone's said so far except that we were in the sun wearing shorts and a T-shirt so we didn't care!
CharlotteJelleyman - AltLd O/S - 02/Jun/09 with Herve Nuttall

Not much gear at all!
Sue Underwood - AltLd - 30/May/09 with Joanne Larty

Polly4 - AltLd - May/09 with claire Sephton

Privative in terms of quality. Equal amounts of vegetation as rock with less then abundant protection. Not recommend when wet and wearing big boots!
Glyn - Lead O/S - 14/Sep/08 with Clive Hudson (father)

A bag of vegetated arse.
dicky79 - 12/Jul/08 with Andy P

Ben Griffiths - Lead - 12/Jul/08

Used the new N Wales guide - seemed to follow the line on the photo but route description nothing close. Lots of grass, just enough gear, v. loose at top (DON'T stand below if any climbers above!). So either off-route or not 2 stars....?
epic ed - AltLd O/S - 05/May/07 with Adam F

Ended up doing the direct finish at VS as it looked, well, more direct... Overall lots of downclimbing, route finding, vegetation and grass filled belay placements. However in between there was some nice climbing, in particular P3 was the standout and the short crack on the VS finish was also nice.
catt - AltLd O/S - 21/Apr/07 with Blane, Gillian

Dave Wearing - AltLd O/S - 07/Oct/06 with asutton709

Old style - no cams, no chalk only walking boots, sweat and tears - and not a single dry bit of rock on the whole thing. Continued with ridge bagging 4 peaks then back to Pete's
OffshoreAndy - AltLd - 07/Oct/06 with Dave Wearing

Hidden - 2nd - 03/Jul/99

My 100th climb in North Wales, done on a misty day with a bottle of Bollinger grande anne to share at the top.
Ian Archer - AltLd O/S - 09/May/98 with Danny Hale

Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
Tom Hecht, mattrm, fozzybear, Warren Earle, Simon Caldwell

Total votes cast 16
hard HVD1 of 7
HVD0 of 7
easy HVD0 of 7
hard VD1 of 7
VD5 of 7
easy VD0 of 7
hard HD0 of 7
HD0 of 7
easy HD0 of 7
3 Stars0 of 9
2 Stars2 of 9
1 Star0 of 9
0 Stars2 of 9
Bag of .....5 of 9
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Style of ascent
Alt Leads
Clean O/S