|400m, 12 pitches. |
Despite the low grade, this route has a superb Alpine ambience and its length means it should not be underestimated.
Start directly below the gap between Piccola and Grande Fermeda, just to the right of the small scree cone at the base of the peaks.
1) II, 30m. Traverse a grassy ledge right then climb a short wall to a thread belay.
2) I, 25m. Walk easily up vegetated ground to reach a vague grassy ridge.
3) II, 30m. Traverse right below the ridge to the base of a vegetated gully.
4) II, 40m. Ascend the gully to a peg belay below a yellow crack.
5) IV, 30m. Climb the yellow crack leftwards then follow the continuation chimney to reach a horizontal crack. Follow this left to a stance on pegs.
6) III, 30m. Follow a ramp left, then descend into the scree gully between Grande and Piccola Fermeda.
7) IV, 30m. Climb a chimney, trending left to a stance below a loose scree gully and a crack.
8) III, 50m. Climb the crack, then walk up the scree to a stance below a grey crack.
9) IV-, 50m. Ignore the crack and instead traverse left, following the line beneath a row of yellow roofs. Pull through a little bulge direct then continue traversing left.
10) III, 25m. Continue traversing left, following numerous pegs, to a stance below the left edge of the yellow roof, just right of the arete.
11) II, 45m. Follow the ridge, moving onto the right side.
12) III, 50m. Move back onto the left side of the arete and climb this with easy but exposed climbing.
13) IV-, 45m. Continue on the ridge, moving back onto the right side.
14) II, 40m. Continue more easily in the same line to a thread on the arete.
15) III, 50m. Climb the edge of the arete to a stance just below a notch.
Many climbers choose to move together for the final 160m to the summit, but the route is described here in detail for those wishing to pitch it.
16) II, 50m. Move up to a notch then follow ledges right to reach a chimney on the east face. Traverse the east face of the subsidiary summit with some sections of easy down-climbing, then ascend slightly to a spike belay.
17) II, 20m. Descend to another notch.
18) III+, 40m. Continue traversing under the jagged crest before the summit, moving left around a small pillar, and down climb a short chimney-gully.
19) III, 50m. Climb slabs and make a delicate rising traverse right to reach the summit of Piccola Fermeda. © ROCKFAX
UKC Logbook Description
Traverse R beneath the face on a large ledge below overhangs and follow the vague central gully to join the summit ridge just below the summit. Numerous in-situ threads and pitons mark the way. Descend via the Wes Ridge (UIAA II).