|400m, 15 pitches. |
A classic but, like all of the climbs on this group, it is rarely climbed. The rock on the upper pitches is excellent featuring some superb layback manoeuvres (it is worth noting that the Italian term for a layback is 'in Dülfer') and the crux pitch, exiting from the crack itself, goes at a strenuous but well-protected V+. Recommended.
Start at the right base of a subsidiary tower, in front of Odla di Cisles, to the right of a gully leading left.
1) II, 50m. Follow the gully up and left then move right to the base of a chimney and the true start of the route.
2) IV+, 45m. Climb the chimney direct, then at a bulge where two cracks fork, take the left crack and climb this to a ledge and a stance below a large cave.
3) IV, 50m. Move right from the cave and climb a few metres in the so-called "Devil's Chimney", before exiting left easily following a grassy ledge to a stance below a slab.
4) III, 45m. Climb the steep slab then trend left more easily to a stance below a crack.
5) IV+, 40m. Move right to avoid the crack, then follow moves back left to a bulge. Pull through this direct then trend right to a spike belay.
6) IV-, 40m. Follow easier ground left to small spires, then follow a crack diagonally right to the base of the steep and yellow 'Dülfer' crack.
7) V+, 25m. Layback the crack direct, moving left at the top to a peg at the base of the continuation crack.
8) V, 25m. Continue up the crack direct.
9) V+, 30m. Continue to climb the crack by tiring laybacking then exit left under a bulge and climb a short and easier chimney.
10) IV, 40m. Move right from the belay then climb a short corner.
11) III, 40m. Follow easier ground left to reach the ridge-line.
12) III, 45m. Continue on the ridge to the subsidiary summit.
13) II, 50m. Descend the east side of the subsidiary summit, then follow the ridge past the second subsidiary peak and finally to the summit itself. © ROCKFAX
UKC Logbook Description
Head up through some scrappy lower ground to the bottom of the overhanging yellow crack near the center to the tower's face. Three tricky pitches are then followed by exposed but much easier climbing along the ridge to the summit.
Descend down the loose gully to the East.