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|Calpe > Penon de Ifach >|
|Asignatura pendiente|| 6b |
Taberna del puerta >>
|79m, 3 pitches. A great route following the centre of the wall giving three contrasting quality pitches.
1) 6b, 25m. Cross the overlap then climb left to reach a crack that slants to the right through the bulges. Up this until an awkward pull gains the easy groove leading to a good stance.
2) 6b, 30m. Step right and climb the shallow groove until difficult moves lead up and left to better holds. Continue up and left to a long flake crack that leads to a small stance.
3) 5, 24m. Climb up until forced left into the chimney. This has an awkward exit then climbing leads to the big tree belay. © ROCKFAX|
FA. E.López 1985
Photo: Asignatura pendiente anchor © Morgan Woods
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This climb is in 4 logbooks, and on 1 wishlist.
The gear was terrible and a bit scary. Route finding on the first pitch was also surprisingly difficult due to the lack of gear. We swithed onto the 6c (Taberna del puerta) for the second pitch because there only seemed to be 2 bolts in the first 20m of that pitch but then switched back because the top of that pitch was sodden. Unfortunately I only managed to find 3 bolts in the last 24m and these were all within the first 8m. Combine all this with the rock crumbling in my hands and breaking under my feet and a huge hole in my shoe and it felt much tougher than I expected.
Not recommended. Not worth a star.
matthewjames - AltLd dog - 25/Mar/11 with Katie Keeley
Hidden - 2010
fyfee8a - 2004
Nick Biven - Lead O/S - 25/Dec/95
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