Same* 6a
180m, 7 pitches. E1. Tackles the buttress below the ridge of the Valencianos slab. The climbing is good and the tube is unique, but the route is disjointed. Start at a ramp between twin cracks. Carry a small rack.
1) 5, 20m. Gain and climb the ramp leading into the right-hand crack and follow this to a stance on the right.
1a) 6b, 30m. The long left-hand crack gives a fine beefy pitch.
2) 5+, 35m. The long, awkward and wide crack above.
3) 5, 20m. The wide continuation now in the main groove.
4) 4, 30m. Climb easily up and right to a stance under a tube.
5) 6a, 30m. Climb the scoop and crack into the chimney and continue up this to a claustrophobic stance.
6) 5, 20m. Continue up the chimney until it opens out.
7) 4, 50m. Follow the slab to the ridge. Finish up Valencianos. © ROCKFAX
FA. J.L.Moreno, Jordi Palas, Santi Llop
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PUBLIC LOGBOOKS
This climb is in 6 logbooks, and on no wishlists.

A mindingly good route if you like big wide fighting cracks, unique and amazing. Much better then 1 star and probably E2 for the crux pitch. The rest is easier.
mountaindavet - 30/Jan/14

A mindingly good route if you like big wide fighting cracks, unique and amazing. Much better then 1 star and probably E2 for the crux pitch. The rest is easier.
mountaindavet - 30/Jan/14

Pown - AltLd O/S - 30/Dec/10

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 25/Dec/05

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 2003

dan gibson - AltLd O/S - Nov/00 with helen gibson

Voting
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hard 6a+1 of 2
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easy 6a+1 of 2
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hard 5c0 of 2
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