180m, 7 pitches.

Rockfax Description
E1. Tackles the buttress below the ridge of the Valencianos slab. The climbing is good and the tube is unique, but the route is disjointed. Start at a ramp between twin cracks. Carry a small rack.
1) 5, 20m. Gain and climb the ramp leading into the right-hand crack and follow this to a stance on the right.
1a) 6b, 30m. The long left-hand crack gives a fine beefy pitch.
2) 5+, 35m. The long, awkward and wide crack above.
3) 5, 20m. The wide continuation now in the main groove.
4) 4, 30m. Climb easily up and right to a stance under a tube.
5) 6a, 30m. Climb the scoop and crack into the chimney and continue up this to a claustrophobic stance.
6) 5, 20m. Continue up the chimney until it opens out.
7) 4, 50m. Follow the slab to the ridge. Finish up Valencianos. © Rockfax

FA. J.L.Moreno, Jordi Palas, Santi Llop


ClimberDateStyle
Kieran Duncan 28/Jan AltLd dog

Got spanked on the 6a pitch after bursting myself on a 7b+ the day before... but a phenomenal route nonetheless! The tube is out of this world, hands down the coolest belay I've ever seen. Approach notes in the guidebook are off. Follow the ones on the main Penon de Ifach UKC page. (and beware the seagulls)

with Ben, Sasha
mountaindavet 30/Jan/14 -

A mindingly good route if you like big wide fighting cracks, unique and amazing. Much better then 1 star and probably E2 for the crux pitch. The rest is easier.

mountaindavet 30/Jan/14 -

A mindingly good route if you like big wide fighting cracks, unique and amazing. Much better then 1 star and probably E2 for the crux pitch. The rest is easier.

Pown 30/Dec/10 AltLd O/S
Hidden 25/Dec/05 AltLd O/S
Hidden ??/2003 AltLd O/S
dan gibson ?/Nov/00 AltLd O/S
with helen gibson
Voting
High 6a+
Mid 6a+
Low 6a+
High 6a
Mid 6a
Low 6a
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
Votes cast 3
Votes cast 3
Style of ascent
Alt Leads
Not Set
Onsighted
Dogged
Not Set