|180m, 7 pitches. |
E1. Tackles the buttress below the ridge of the Valencianos slab. The climbing is good and the tube is unique, but the route is disjointed. Start at a ramp between twin cracks. Carry a small rack.
1) 5, 20m. Gain and climb the ramp leading into the right-hand crack and follow this to a stance on the right.
1a) 6b, 30m. The long left-hand crack gives a fine beefy pitch.
2) 5+, 35m. The long, awkward and wide crack above.
3) 5, 20m. The wide continuation now in the main groove.
4) 4, 30m. Climb easily up and right to a stance under a tube.
5) 6a, 30m. Climb the scoop and crack into the chimney and continue up this to a claustrophobic stance.
6) 5, 20m. Continue up the chimney until it opens out.
7) 4, 50m. Follow the slab to the ridge. Finish up Valencianos. © ROCKFAX
FA. J.L.Moreno, Jordi Palas, Santi Llop