100m, 4 pitches.

Rockfax Description
E1. An interesting variation on Vía Valencianos.
1) 4, 38m. Follow the first pitch of Valencianos, but move left to a bolt belay below the centre of the slab.
2) 6a, 18m. Climb direct up the slab to a small stance in the middle of the easy traverse on Valencianos.
3) 5+, 20m. Climb steeply to gain a fine slab that leads to belays.
4) 5, 34m. Trend right up the right-hand bolt line up the steep wall (some fixed gear) to the great slab. Climb straight up this to join Valencianos. Either continue up this or make three long abseils. © Rockfax

Hidden 02/Oct AltLd dog
mjeffery 07/Mar Lead O/S
redshapedfriday 10/Dec/14 AltLd
with Debs Climber
mikestr555 31/Mar/14 AltLd O/S

mixed with sensacion de vivir lead pitches P2 6a P3 6a to 6b+ P5 5 P6 4

carlh 31/Oct/13 AltLd O/S
hotfeet 11/Oct/13 AltLd
Ian MK 11/Oct/13 AltLd
with Alan
Hidden 11/Oct/13 2nd
Biggo 24/Mar/13 Lead O/S

P2&P3,6a+ Excellent route but bit pulished makes it lose some interest

with Fran, Berta
AlexHerbert79 ?/Feb/13 2nd

First few days of outdoor cl;imbing, first multi-pitch, very exposed, very bold, and I ended up lowering off part way though the second pitch. Lucky someone got the carabiner we left behind. I'll be back!!

Hidden 04/Dec/12 AltLd O/S
SeánM 16/Apr/12 AltLd
SeánM 16/Apr/12 AltLd
Hidden ?/Oct/11 AltLd O/S
absolutebeginner 05/Apr/11 2nd
with Rich#, Nick
RossT 17/Feb/11 AltLd

Hard for the grade.

with Colin
owb106 01/Jan/11 AltLd O/S


with Matt Kendall
JimBee ?/Nov/10 2nd dog

P2 M. Took a deliberate short cut instead of following P2 of Via Valencianos - what a mistake! Horrible pitch, very polished and hard climbing. Lots of pitons / old bolts but fingery and felt more like 6a+, not helped by carrying too much gear, food & water.

with Matt Ellis
Hidden 08/Sep/10 -
KevB 17/Apr/10 AltLd O/S

Dive-bombed by sea gulls

with Matt S
Phil Murray 02/Apr/10 Lead O/S

Second pitch is 6a+ not 5. Next pitch is 6a not 5+. Both pitches are brilliant, tho. Take some small wires and cams. Amazing day out, 3rd time I've climbed the Penyon but first time I've flashed it. Led all pitches.

with Sam Bloor, Fenella
Ali.B ?/Mar/10 Lead O/S

Agree, grades for some of the pitches should be increased. rising diagalonal lead which disappears around corner and then hits final slab would benefit from a belay stance before u disappear around the corner. View at the top of the ridge looking down on Calpe is so worth all of the effort. Small rack was needed.

mark4344 14/Mar/09 AltLd O/S

Great route, tough for grade. Several pitches should be upgraded 1 grade. small trad rack useful

with michel schonewille
Hidden 19/Feb/09 AltLd
Hidden ?/Nov/08 Lead
Phil PBC ??/2008 -
Julie Carroll ?/May/07 AltLd
with Carole Dawson
Hidden 22/Mar/07 AltLd dog
Hidden ??/2007 AltLd
Hidden 19/Oct/06 AltLd
cem 03/Jan/06 AltLd O/S
with Dave Amos
King Rat ??/2006 AltLd O/S
with A
antroy 23/Mar/05 AltLd
nige pacer ?/Apr/00 AltLd O/S
steve prior ?/Dec/99 AltLd
with Andy C
chris sm ?/Dec/95 AltLd O/S
with Andy Gill
Hidden 09/Dec/94 AltLd
Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
HumphreyJ20, Valentino, Hidden, badgerspoke, Hidden
High 6a+
Mid 6a+
Low 6a+
High 6a
Mid 6a
Low 6a
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
Votes cast 14
Votes cast 12
Style of ascent
Alt Leads
Not Set
Not Set