Direct de UBSA* 5c
[4pitch, 3 kb]100m, 4 pitches. 1) 4, 30m. Follow the first pitch of Valencianos but move left to a bolt belay below the centre of the slab. 2) 5, 16m. Climb direct up the slab, with plenty of protection, to a small stance and belays below a short wall in the middle of the easy traverse on Valencianos. 3) 5+, 20m. Climb steeply to gain a fine slab that leads to belays. 4) 5, 34m. Trend right up the right-hand bolt line up the steep wall passing occasional fixed gear to gain the great slab. Climb directly up this to a belay on Valencianos. Either continue up this - 75m with moves of 4 - or make three abseils to the ground. © ROCKFAX

Photo: 4pitch © Biggo
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PUBLIC LOGBOOKS
This climb is in 32 logbooks, and on 5 wishlists.

mixed with sensacion de vivir lead pitches P2 6a P3 6a to 6b+ P5 5 P6 4
mikestr555 - AltLd O/S - 31/Mar/14

carlh - AltLd O/S - 31/Oct/13

hotfeet - AltLd - 11/Oct/13 with Ian Routledge, Mac

Ian MK - AltLd - 11/Oct/13 with Alan

P2&P3,6a+ Excellent route but bit pulished makes it lose some interest
Biggo - Lead O/S - 24/Mar/13 with Fran, Berta

First few days of outdoor cl;imbing, first multi-pitch, very exposed, very bold, and I ended up lowering off part way though the second pitch. Lucky someone got the carabiner we left behind. I'll be back!!
AlexHerbert79 - 2nd - Feb/13

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 04/Dec/12

SeánM - AltLd - 16/Apr/12

SeánM - AltLd - 16/Apr/12

colin.morrison - AltLd O/S - Oct/11 with Ross Bingham

absolutebeginner - 2nd - 05/Apr/11 with Rich#, Nick

Hard for the grade.
RossT - AltLd - 17/Feb/11 with Colin

P1,4,6,10
owb106 - AltLd O/S - 01/Jan/11 with Matt Kendall

P2 M. Took a deliberate short cut instead of following P2 of Via Valencianos - what a mistake! Horrible pitch, very polished and hard climbing. Lots of pitons / old bolts but fingery and felt more like 6a+, not helped by carrying too much gear, food & water.
JimBee - 2nd dog - Nov/10 with Matt Ellis

Hidden - 08/Sep/10

Dive-bombed by sea gulls
KevB - AltLd O/S - 17/Apr/10 with Matt S

Second pitch is 6a+ not 5. Next pitch is 6a not 5+. Both pitches are brilliant, tho. Take some small wires and cams. Amazing day out, 3rd time I've climbed the Penyon but first time I've flashed it. Led all pitches.
Phil Murray - Lead O/S - 02/Apr/10 with Sam Bloor, Fenella

Agree, grades for some of the pitches should be increased. rising diagalonal lead which disappears around corner and then hits final slab would benefit from a belay stance before u disappear around the corner. View at the top of the ridge looking down on Calpe is so worth all of the effort. Small rack was needed.
Ali.B - Lead O/S - Mar/10

Great route, tough for grade. Several pitches should be upgraded 1 grade. small trad rack useful
mark4344 - AltLd O/S - 14/Mar/09 with michel schonewille

Hidden - AltLd - 19/Feb/09

Phil PBC - 2008

Julie Carroll - AltLd - May/07 with Carole Dawson

Hidden - AltLd dog - 22/Mar/07

Hidden - AltLd - 2007

Hidden - AltLd - 19/Oct/06

cem - AltLd O/S - 03/Jan/06 with Dave Amos

King Rat - AltLd O/S - 2006 with A

antroy - AltLd - 23/Mar/05

nige pacer - AltLd O/S - Apr/00

steve prior - AltLd - Dec/99 with Andy C

chris sm - AltLd O/S - Dec/95 with Andy Gill

Hidden - AltLd - 09/Dec/94

Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
HumphreyJ20, Valentino, badgerspoke

Voting
Total votes cast 20
hard 6a1 of 11
6a1 of 11
easy 6a8 of 11
hard 5c0 of 11
5c1 of 11
easy 5c0 of 11
hard 5a0 of 11
5a0 of 11
easy 5a0 of 11
3 Stars1 of 9
2 Stars4 of 9
1 Star1 of 9
0 Stars1 of 9
Bag of .....2 of 9
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Style of ascent

Lead
Followed
Alt Leads
Unknown
Climbed
Clean O/S
dogged