Piratas* 5c
[Utta on "Piratas", Penon de I´fach, Costa Blanca, 4 kb]One of the original lines on the wall. It has good climbing but doesn't see much traffic. Some of the rock is loose. Take a rack. 1) to 3) 5+, 105m. As for Valencianos. 4) 4+, 25m. Climb up a corner then follow a ramp rightwards to a belay around an arete. 5) 4+, 25m. Follow the corner (peg) to a cave belay - threads. 6) 5, 20m. Exit the cave to the right - high thread - then climb up a crack to a pedestal belay. 7) 4, 25m. Climb the corner past some bushes to a belay. 8) 4+, 20m. Surmount the final bulge by bridging and continue to the ridge. Escape more easily to the summit path. © ROCKFAX
One of the original lines on the wall. It has good climbing but doesn't see much traffic. Some of the rock is loose. Take a rack. 1) to 3) 5+, 105m. As for Valencianos. 4) 4+, 25m. Climb up a corner then follow a ramp rightwards to a belay around an arete. 5) 4+, 25m. Follow the corner (peg) to a cave belay - threads. 6) 5, 20m. Exit the cave to the right - high thread - then climb up a crack to a pedestal belay. 7) 4, 25m. Climb the corner past some bushes to a belay. 8) 4+, 20m. Surmount the final bulge by bridging and continue to the ridge. Escape more easily to the summit path.
FA. Armand Ballard, J.M.Gonzalez 1979

Photo: Utta on "Piratas", Penon de I´fach, Costa Blanca © André

PUBLIC LOGBOOKS
This climb is in 6 logbooks, and on 2 wishlists.

8 pitches, with 6a+ variant, guidebook a little confusing, true line not shown on topo. Very polished despite not having much traffic according to guide. There were 5 parties on the route today, a Tuesday!
edmitchell - 2nd O/S - 27/Mar/13

Very easy to get lost!!
ricky6386 - AltLd dnf - 09/Sep/10

Hidden - 2nd - Mar/10

8 pitches.
Will Gordon - Lead O/S - Mar/10 with Chris Jose

Hidden - Solo O/S - 03/Apr/06

Hidden - AltLd - 02/Dec/01

Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
Valentino, badgerspoke
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