Costa Blanca*** 6c+
[The Hat of Penon de Ifach, Calpe, Costa Blanca, 1 kb]207m, 7 pitches.

Rockfax Description
A brilliant route which is one of the best in the area. The climbing is superb and independent, and the finish is breathtaking. It is fully equipped. Start as for Vía Valencianos.
1) -, 15m. Move up, then right along a ledge to belay below a slab.
2) 6b, 40m. Climb onto a slab and make some thin moves up leftwards. Easier climbing leads up and right to a belay.
3) 6b, 35m. Climb directly up the wall and grooves above.
4) 6a, 35m. Continue to a stance on the edge of the pinnacle.
5) 6b+, 32m. Step down and across the gully onto the wall behind. Surmount a small overhang and continue up the wall above with some sustained moves and long reaches.
6) 6b+, 20m. Straight up the wall to the large upper cave.
7) 6c+, 30m. Swing wildly out of the cave and grind to a halt at thin move. After a rest another hard move, involving a blind reach, gains easier ground and the top. © ROCKFAX


FA. Jaime Arviza, Salvador Guerola 1993

Ticklists: Costa Blanca in a Week Tick List.

Photo: The Hat of Penon de Ifach, Calpe, Costa Blanca © E13 Climbers
View all 14 photos or Submit a new photo of this climb.

PUBLIC LOGBOOKS
This climb is in 105 logbooks, and on 14 wishlists.

What a route! Every pitch three stars, and they're all a little bit soft for the grade as well so no reason not to try. Every belay with rings so can retreat if needed. Led first 6b pitch, 6a pitch, second 6b+ pitch and the top 6c+ pitch. Pleased to do it clean seconding as well. Go to it!
spidermonkey09 - AltLd O/S - 10/Apr/15 with Tom Frost

TRFrost - AltLd - 10/Apr/15 with J. Hulbert

Honour to second Brian . Superb climbing. wellbolted last pitch.
alice fuller - 2nd - 26/Feb/15 with Brian Hannon

Had to reverse from crux on top pitch to leave rucksack with Alice. It felt OK then and enjoyed watching Alice get up it carrying two sacks! Brilliant and memorable route.
Brian H - Lead O/S - 26/Feb/15 with Alice

afrosam - AltLd O/S - 09/Jan/15 with Trisha Murphy

Trisha Murphy - AltLd O/S - 09/Jan/15 with Sam Robinson

Classic stuff! L1,6b: desperate start from cold. L2,6b: steeper and more sustained. L3,6a: does 6a come better than this? L4,6b+: descent into gully makes rope security well dodgy; hard-6c. L5,6b+ straightforward soft-6b. L6,6c+: adrenaline overdose, a fitting climax!
LeeWood - AltLd O/S - 01/Jan/15

Hidden - Lead O/S - Jan/15

reima - AltLd dog - 26/Dec/14 with Niamh

Fell on the top pitch.
Rachel Somerville - AltLd dog - 24/Dec/14 with Graham Hadaway

Great climb, enjoyed every pitch and would happily climb it again.
redshapedfriday - Lead dog - 24/Dec/14 with Rachel Somerville

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 19/Dec/14

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 13/Dec/14

clean enough. top pitch was out there, great route
admackie - AltLd O/S - 12/Dec/14 with andy

The best building to a fantastic finale pitch 1,3,5,7 summit hariebo was enjoyed by all.
Andy Peak 1 - AltLd O/S - 12/Dec/14 with Andy Makey

ian d f - AltLd O/S - 01/Dec/14 with Michael P

pearson9596 - AltLd O/S - 01/Dec/14 with Ian Faulkner

2 falls in final (6c+) pitch as second with "extra" luggage
daxtari - AltLd dog - 13/Nov/14

led pitches 3, 5 and 7.... slipped on the polished 5th pitch and lacked the juice to get the crux pitch clean.. v.intimidating going out of the cave! amazing day
dbrooks - AltLd dog - 05/Nov/14 with John

Last two pitches, lost on ubsa. Those caves.. 200m up. Glorious.
neuromancer - Lead RP - 16/Apr/14 with s.scott

I led the initial chossy scramble, the second 6b layback, and the second 6b+. Skipped the first 6b+ pitch when James did the 5+ trad pitch by accident. Had to French-free the last hard move on the last 6c+ pitch due to melting arms. Awesome route, right at my limit.
1poundSOCKS - AltLd O/S - 27/Feb/14

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 27/Feb/14

mark20 - AltLd O/S - 01/Jan/14

Great day. Led P2, 4 and 6 all clean which I was pretty happy with. Slipped stupidly off some polish on 5 when we were off route (apparently!) anyways. Also struggled miserably on the top pitch as expected but thought it was amazing all the same. Bag and nervousness didnt help. Topped out to some of the guys and a picnic as well as a nice early finish to go for a beer. Pretty good!
Maddie - AltLd dog - 2014 with remus

Lead pitches 3,5 and 7. Climbed with Adam Looker. Greatest climb to date, pulling through the final moves were indescribable. A must-do! It definitely felt like the technical crux was on pitch 5 though, not to be underestimated! 10/10
mrteale - AltLd O/S - 23/Dec/13

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 23/Dec/13

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 22/Dec/13

Lunar25 - AltLd - 22/Dec/13 with Dave LE

Dunx - AltLd - 22/Oct/13 with Steve Holmes

Blew the move on top pitch, careless.Great route.
IceBun - 03/Apr/13 with Wilson

Hidden - 2nd dog - 31/Mar/13

leowestland - AltLd dog - Mar/13

Traversed off to avoid last pitch Great 6b+ the way we did it:)
andybirtwistle - Lead - 14/Feb/13 with Tim Dunsby

Hidden - 2nd - 05/Jan/13

great route! finished up los miserables, lots of quality pitches, personal fave was after the pinnacle, steep territory with good holds, although some polish. a very hot day. definitely go back for the cave pitch.
rustaldo - Lead O/S - 05/Jan/13 with Kit Perry

mikespooner - AltLd dnf - 16/Dec/12

Lead clean pitches 2, 4, 6 clean. Seconded pitches 1, 3, 5 clean. Peeled off the fantastic last pitch, an unmissable experience.
Albachoss - Lead dog - 16/Dec/12 with Ben

Hidden - AltLd - 16/Dec/12

Hidden - Lead - 14/Dec/12

Outstanding Route - so glad to have done it. Though I disagree quite a bit with the guidebook grades of the various pitches, imo: (scramble),6b,6a+,6a,6c,6a+,6c
johannes - Lead O/S - 23/Nov/12

Hidden - AltLd - 19/Nov/12

daxtari - AltLd - 31/Oct/12

Lead pitches 4,5 and 7
owain86 - AltLd O/S - 06/Apr/12 with Chris, Greg

Pulling out the cave is nails with a bag on
chriscarroll - AltLd dog - 06/Apr/12 with Owain

Trevera - AltLd - 01/Apr/12 with neil morbey

The only thing that would make this better would be if the pitch off the top of the pinnacle was another steep jugfest instead of having that delicate polished slopey section...
PeteH - AltLd O/S - 16/Feb/12 with Naomi Hart

NaomiHart - AltLd O/S - 16/Feb/12 with Peter Hart

tim newton - AltLd O/S - 01/Feb/12 with jonathan emett

Some very nice pitches, top one is not that hard
HansStuttgart - 2012

Led pitches 1,3,5 onsight. Clipped a bolt rest on pitch 6. Remainder onsight. Brilliant route, the best I've done. Just over 3 hours, felt very fast.
ianjfsutcliffe - AltLd - 19/Dec/11 with Patch

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 22/Mar/11

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 21/Mar/11

Andrew1 - AltLd - 21/Mar/11 with Chris Fisher

pt1,3,5 and 7 and the wife 2,4 and 6. This is the first big route I have done and what an amazing experience. If anyone is looking for a bit of exposure of a sporting nature then look no further, a little over 5 hours for the ascent. Pt5 more like 6c but the rest felt about right!
eddieclimb - AltLd O/S - 02/Feb/11 with Rebecca Edwards

dswansonlow - AltLd O/S - 03/Jan/11 with sarp

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 02/Jan/11

Amazing but opted not to attempt the roof this time
richardhopton - AltLd dog - 10/Feb/10 with Bob Loblaw

Hidden - 2010

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 08/Nov/09

Jus - AltLd O/S - 07/Feb/09 with Jake Shaw

Good route. Pretty friendly at the grade. Thought the crux move was on the supposed 6b+ pitch after the pinnacle/gully, which is more like 6c. Top pitch more like 6b+/6c
Jake Shaw - 07/Feb/09 with Justin

Dave Reeve - AltLd - 01/Feb/09 with Steve Hordley

Los miserables finish. One of the best routes I've done. George's 2nd multipitch
Bristoldave - Lead O/S - 02/Jan/09 with George

67hours - 2nd - 02/Jan/09 with Bristoldave

Tom Briggs - Jagged Globe - Lead O/S - 30/Dec/08 with Rachel Hassall

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 17/Dec/08

One of my first big multipitches, so pretty much blew me away. One breathtaking fall when handhold came away (Thus not counted!!)
funsized - 2nd β - Dec/08

Good long route. A couple of rest points
steveb2006 - AltLd - 07/Nov/08 with Roland Smith

clean til last pitch
Ed Babs - AltLd dog - 16/Sep/08 with Harry

maybe_si - AltLd O/S - 10/Aug/08 with charlie

Clean till last 6c+ pitch, had one rest while carrying a rucksack. Very good route!
Glyn - AltLd O/S - 19/Mar/08 with Andy Barker

derico - Lead β - 19/Mar/08 with Chris Davis

Hidden - AltLd O/S - Mar/08

mgeek - Lead O/S - Dec/07 with greg boswell

took about 4 hours
Chubbard - AltLd dog - 26/Sep/07 with C Godfrey

Hidden - AltLd rpt - Mar/07

dan gibson - Lead O/S - 22/Feb/07 with martina

Pitch 1 - Dave; Pitch 2 - Hol; Pitch 3 - Dave; Pitch 4 - Hpol; Pitch 5 - Dave; Pitch 6 - Hol; Pitch 7 - Dave. 4.75 hours.
DavidR - AltLd dog - 02/Jan/07 with Holly Adamthwaite

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 02/Jan/07

Maciek - 2nd dog - Jan/07 with Lukasz S.

Hidden - AltLd - 2007

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 17/Sep/06

ASchwirtz - Lead O/S - 14/Apr/06 with Brian Rogers

Hidden - AltLd O/S - Apr/06

Brian Rodgers - AltLd O/S - Mar/06 with Ant

Los Miserables finish. Still *** but only 6b+. A memorable route.
Paul Robertson - AltLd O/S - 26/Nov/05 with DSM

Chad123 - AltLd O/S - 2005 with Emily

Luis SD - AltLd O/S - Mar/04

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 19/Feb/04

Hidden - AltLd dog - 25/Jan/04

Gus - 2004 with luisa giles

Marc Murphy - 2nd - May/03

Hidden - AltLd - 2003

Superb!!
Russell Birkett - AltLd - Apr/02 with Cher P

sharpie - Lead O/S - Mar/02 with PL

jamiev - AltLd O/S - 16/Jan/02 with Adrian Berry

skygodley - AltLd - 18/Feb/99 with Silvia Fitzpatrick

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 28/Dec/97

Hidden - AltLd - 01/Nov/97

shark - Lead - 09/Jan/97 with Chief

Led all pitches. Great route.
Stoney Boy - Lead O/S - Jan/97 with Dave Hassall

Hidden - 2nd - 1997

Rick did the 6c+ pitch
D Tempest - AltLd - 23/Nov/96 with Rick

Chris Craggs - Lead - 1980

Hidden - 1980

Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
ChrisBrooke, Cat G, derekb, Jay.Carr, Richard P Coates, Mattlamb90, ravedave1806, Robin Head, mrstarwarsman, ab tat

Voting
Total votes cast 78
hard 7a0 of 38
7a0 of 38
easy 7a0 of 38
hard 6c+0 of 38
6c+17 of 38
easy 6c+13 of 38
hard 6c7 of 38
6c1 of 38
easy 6c0 of 38
3 Stars39 of 40
2 Stars1 of 40
1 Star0 of 40
0 Stars0 of 40
Bag of .....0 of 40
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