Costa Blanca*** 6c+
[Penon De Ifach Bivi, Costa Blanca, Spain , 1 kb]207m, 7 pitches. A brilliant route which is one of the best the area. The climbing is superb and independent and the finish is breathtaking. It is fully equipped. Start as for Vía Valencianos. 1) 15m. Move up then right along a ledge to belay below a slab. 2) 6b, 40m. Climb onto a slab and make some thin moves up leftwards. Easier climbing leads up and right to a belay. 3) 6b, 35m. Climb directly up the wall and grooves above. 4) 6a, 35m. Continue to a stance on the edge of the pinnacle. 5) 6b+, 32m. Step down and across the gully onto the wall behind. Surmount a small overhang and continue up the wall above with some sustained moves and long reaches. 6) 6b+, 20m. Straight up the wall to the large upper cave. 7) 6c+, 30m. Swing wildly out of the cave and grind to a halt at thin move. After a rest another hard move, involving a blind reach, gains easier ground and the top. is to traverse the ledge of Diedro UBSA to join and finish up Los miserables - a three star alternative at 6b+ for the whole route. © ROCKFAX
FA. Jaime Arviza, Salvador Guerola 1993

Ticklists: Costa Blanca in a Week Tick List.

Photo: Penon De Ifach Bivi, Costa Blanca, Spain © A Downing
View all 13 photos or

PUBLIC LOGBOOKS
This climb is in 91 logbooks, and on 11 wishlists.

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 19/Dec/14

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 13/Dec/14

clean enough. top pitch was out there, great route
admackie - AltLd O/S - 12/Dec/14 with andy

The best building to a fantastic finale pitch 1,3,5,7 summit hariebo was enjoyed by all.
Andy Peak 1 - AltLd O/S - 12/Dec/14 with Andy Makey

ian d f - AltLd O/S - 01/Dec/14 with Michael P

pearson9596 - AltLd O/S - 01/Dec/14 with Ian Faulkner

2 falls in final (6c+) pitch as second with "extra" luggage
daxtari - AltLd dog - 13/Nov/14

led pitches 3, 5 and 7.... slipped on the polished 5th pitch and lacked the juice to get the crux pitch clean.. v.intimidating going out of the cave! amazing day
dbrooks - AltLd dog - 05/Nov/14 with John

I led the initial chossy scramble, the second 6b layback, and the second 6b+. Skipped the first 6b+ pitch when James did the 5+ trad pitch by accident. Had to French-free the last hard move on the last 6c+ pitch due to melting arms. Awesome route, right at my limit.
1poundSOCKS - AltLd O/S - 27/Feb/14

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 27/Feb/14

mark20 - AltLd O/S - 01/Jan/14

Lead pitches 3,5 and 7. Climbed with Adam Looker. Greatest climb to date, pulling through the final moves were indescribable. A must-do! It definitely felt like the technical crux was on pitch 5 though, not to be underestimated! 10/10
mrteale - AltLd O/S - 23/Dec/13

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 23/Dec/13

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 22/Dec/13

Lunar25 - AltLd - 22/Dec/13 with Dave LE

Dunx - AltLd - 22/Oct/13 with Steve Holmes

Blew the move on top pitch, careless.Great route.
IceBun - 03/Apr/13 with Wilson

Hidden - 2nd dog - 31/Mar/13

leowestland - AltLd dog - Mar/13

Traversed off to avoid last pitch Great 6b+ the way we did it:)
andybirtwistle - Lead - 14/Feb/13 with Tim Dunsby

Awesome route! Did the 6b+ variation as we were both hanging come pitch 5. Definitely wasn't a clean ascent, knackered by the end of it. Finished with an ab off a bridge to get back to the car and a wash in the sea. The pitch after the pinnacle is polished and sloppy. Apart from that 3 stars!
Chris Perry - 2nd - 05/Jan/13 with Matt Rust

great route! finished up los miserables, lots of quality pitches, personal fave was after the pinnacle, steep territory with good holds, although some polish. a very hot day. definitely go back for the cave pitch.
rustaldo - Lead O/S - 05/Jan/13 with Kit Perry

mikespooner - AltLd dnf - 16/Dec/12

Lead clean pitches 2, 4, 6 clean. Seconded pitches 1, 3, 5 clean. Peeled off the fantastic last pitch, an unmissable experience.
Albachoss - Lead dog - 16/Dec/12 with Ben

Hidden - AltLd - 16/Dec/12

Hidden - Lead - 14/Dec/12

Outstanding Route - so glad to have done it. Though I disagree quite a bit with the guidebook grades of the various pitches, imo: (scramble),6b,6a+,6a,6c,6a+,6c
johannes - Lead O/S - 23/Nov/12

Hidden - AltLd - 19/Nov/12

daxtari - AltLd - 31/Oct/12

Lead pitches 4,5 and 7
owain86 - AltLd O/S - 06/Apr/12 with Chris, Greg

Pulling out the cave is nails with a bag on
chriscarroll - AltLd dog - 06/Apr/12 with Owain

Trevera - AltLd - 01/Apr/12 with neil morbey

The only thing that would make this better would be if the pitch off the top of the pinnacle was another steep jugfest instead of having that delicate polished slopey section...
PeteH - AltLd O/S - 16/Feb/12 with Naomi Hart

NaomiHart - AltLd O/S - 16/Feb/12 with Peter Hart

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 01/Feb/12

Some very nice pitches, top one is not that hard
HansStuttgart - 2012

Led pitches 1,3,5 onsight. Clipped a bolt rest on pitch 6. Remainder onsight. Brilliant route, the best I've done. Just over 3 hours, felt very fast.
ianjfsutcliffe - AltLd - 19/Dec/11 with Patch

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 22/Mar/11

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 21/Mar/11

Andrew1 - AltLd - 21/Mar/11 with Chris Fisher

pt1,3,5 and 7 and the wife 2,4 and 6. This is the first big route I have done and what an amazing experience. If anyone is looking for a bit of exposure of a sporting nature then look no further, a little over 5 hours for the ascent. Pt5 more like 6c but the rest felt about right!
eddieclimb - AltLd O/S - 02/Feb/11 with Rebecca Edwards

dswansonlow - AltLd O/S - 03/Jan/11 with sarp

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 02/Jan/11

Amazing but opted not to attempt the roof this time
richardhopton - AltLd dog - 10/Feb/10 with Bob Loblaw

Hidden - 2010

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 08/Nov/09

Jus - AltLd O/S - 07/Feb/09 with Jake Shaw

Good route. Pretty friendly at the grade. Thought the crux move was on the supposed 6b+ pitch after the pinnacle/gully, which is more like 6c. Top pitch more like 6b+/6c
Jake Shaw - 07/Feb/09 with Justin

Dave Reeve - AltLd - 01/Feb/09 with Steve Hordley

Los miserables finish. One of the best routes I've done. George's 2nd multipitch
Bristoldave - Lead O/S - 02/Jan/09 with George

67hours - 2nd - 02/Jan/09 with Bristoldave

Tom Briggs - Jagged Globe - Lead O/S - 30/Dec/08 with Rachel Hassall

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 17/Dec/08

One of my first big multipitches, so pretty much blew me away. One breathtaking fall when handhold came away (Thus not counted!!)
funsized - 2nd β - Dec/08

Hidden - AltLd - 07/Nov/08

clean til last pitch
Ed Babs - AltLd dog - 16/Sep/08 with Harry

maybe_si - AltLd O/S - 10/Aug/08 with charlie

Clean till last 6c+ pitch, had one rest while carrying a rucksack. Very good route!
Glyn - AltLd O/S - 19/Mar/08 with Andy Barker

derico - Lead β - 19/Mar/08 with Chris Davis

Hidden - AltLd O/S - Mar/08

mgeek - Lead O/S - Dec/07 with greg boswell

took about 4 hours
Chubbard - AltLd dog - 26/Sep/07 with C Godfrey

Hidden - AltLd rpt - Mar/07

dan gibson - Lead O/S - 22/Feb/07 with martina

Pitch 1 - Dave; Pitch 2 - Hol; Pitch 3 - Dave; Pitch 4 - Hpol; Pitch 5 - Dave; Pitch 6 - Hol; Pitch 7 - Dave. 4.75 hours.
DavidR - AltLd dog - 02/Jan/07 with Holly Adamthwaite

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 02/Jan/07

Maciek - 2nd dog - Jan/07 with Lukasz S.

Hidden - AltLd - 2007

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 17/Sep/06

ASchwirtz - Lead O/S - 14/Apr/06 with Brian Rogers

Hidden - AltLd O/S - Apr/06

Brian Rodgers - AltLd O/S - Mar/06 with Ant

Los Miserables finish. Still *** but only 6b+. A memorable route.
Paul Robertson - AltLd O/S - 26/Nov/05 with DSM

Chad123 - AltLd O/S - 2005 with Emily

Luis SD - AltLd O/S - Mar/04

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 19/Feb/04

Hidden - AltLd dog - 25/Jan/04

Gus - 2004 with luisa giles

Marc Murphy - 2nd - May/03

Hidden - AltLd - 2003

Superb!!
Russell Birkett - AltLd - Apr/02 with Cher P

sharpie - Lead O/S - Mar/02 with PL

jamiev - AltLd O/S - 16/Jan/02 with Adrian Berry

skygodley - AltLd - 18/Feb/99 with Silvia Fitzpatrick

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 28/Dec/97

Hidden - AltLd - 01/Nov/97

shark - Lead - 09/Jan/97 with Chief

Led all pitches. Great route.
Stoney Boy - Lead O/S - Jan/97 with Dave Hassall

Hidden - 2nd - 1997

Chris Craggs - Lead - 1980

Paul Clarke - 1980

Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
Jay.Carr, Richard P Coates, Mattlamb90, ravedave1806, Robin Head, mrstarwarsman, ab tat

Voting
Total votes cast 68
hard 7a0 of 33
7a0 of 33
easy 7a0 of 33
hard 6c+0 of 33
6c+14 of 33
easy 6c+12 of 33
hard 6c6 of 33
6c1 of 33
easy 6c0 of 33
3 Stars34 of 35
2 Stars1 of 35
1 Star0 of 35
0 Stars0 of 35
Bag of .....0 of 35
Please Login as Existing User to rate this climb.
Style of ascent

Lead
Followed
Alt Leads
Unknown
Climbed
Clean O/S
Clean β
Clean rpt
dogged
dnf