Diedro UBSA*** 5c
[Me on Diedro USBA taken by Dave T, 3 kb]220m, 10 pitches.

Rockfax Description
HVS. A classic expedition which takes the groove to a belay behind the pinnacle and then continues to reach the large cave high up. From here the route escapes leftwards by a spectacular abseil. The route is slightly spoilt by the looseness of the first few pitches. Depending on confidence/ability levels, take a small rack although all the hard sections are geared. Start left of the base of the groove by a large cactus bush.
1) -, 15m. Scramble (loose) to belay left of the base of the groove.
2) 4+, 30m. Climb awkwardly right to the groove, then up to a stance in a chimney.
3) 5, 20m. Continue bridging up the groove to a stance just before a harder section.
4) 5+, 35m. Another pitch up the corner.
5) 4, 30m. Move right onto a slab, then back left and climb up to a three-bolt belay on a jammed block behind the pinnacle.
6) 5+, 25m. Make a long move from the block to access the wall. Climb up into the base of the cave and a belay on the left. The groove to the right gives another option. Do not be tempted to climb up towards the tat visible high in the cave.
7) 8m down. Look round the left arete to locate some bolts and use these to abseil to a ledge below, swinging slightly left, then move further left to a belay (on Les miserables).
8) 4, 30m. Traverse into the corner and move up to belay.
9) 4+, 35m. Climb the corner to gain the ridge. Easy rock leads from here to the summit. © ROCKFAX

FA. Luis Riguez, Jose Guerrero, Pedro Oliva 1960s 1965

Ticklists: Costa Blanca "Must Do" routes.

Photo: Me on Diedro USBA taken by Dave T © cheeky
View all 22 photos or Submit a new photo of this climb.

This climb is in 263 logbooks, and on 21 wishlists.

lead pitches 2,4,6,9
mikestr555 - AltLd - 30/Apr/15

barn owl - AltLd - 22/Apr/15 with simon Rackley

barn owl - AltLd O/S - 21/Apr/15 with simon Rackley

Attacked and shat on by seagulls on walk in and first pitch.
mark4344 - AltLd rpt - 13/Apr/15 with derek

A brilliant climb if becoming somewhat polished. Exciting and interesting for the grade. Not a bad pitch on it, and all feels a very similar grade. Lead Pitches: 2,4,7,8,9.
Ella7 - AltLd O/S - 10/Apr/15 with Tom Bullock

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 10/Apr/15

Simon Rackley - AltLd O/S - Apr/15 with andy barnes

scott quinn - AltLd O/S - 27/Mar/15 with Tom Priestley

Came to do Costa Blanca but another team was on it so we did this instead. Took a couple of pebbles in our pockets as we had no trad gear. A few decent runouts but otherwise ok. Polished.
Tom.Priestley - AltLd O/S - 25/Mar/15 with Scott Quinn

Went up to the tat in the small cave, the climbing seemed cleaner and more enjoyable that way.
duzinga - Lead O/S - 13/Mar/15 with MTV

martintv - 2nd dog - 13/Mar/15 with Tuze

darrenpp - AltLd - Mar/15

P1, 3, 5, 6, 8, 9 me P2, 4, 7 - Bill Start of scramble 08:37am Start of route 09:03am Top out 15:50pm As others have commented, the wording for Pitch6 is ambiguous. It should read more like: "6) 5+, 25m. Make a long move from the block to access the wall. Do not be tempted to climb up towards the tat visible high in the SMALL cave. Follow the bolts up and slightly right then head right into the groove. Climb up into the base of the LARGE cave and a belay on the left." If you do end up at the tat in the small cave then exiting it left and up and then back right into the large cave is more like f6b.
UnkArl - AltLd O/S - 06/Feb/15 with Uncle Bill, Dad

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 21/Jan/15

Brilliant! Led pitches 2/3/4/6/9 (4+/5/5+/5+/4+). Steep and sustained, hard for HVS, very polished, medium cams needed. The guidebook description for pitch 6 is ambiguous - it talks about the belay cave, then in the very next sentence says 'don't climb to the tat visible high in the cave'. This is NOT referring to the belay cave, but in fact to a completely different smaller cave on the actual pitch. Clearly everyone does end up there so the description needs re-wording - exiting the cave at the tat was pretty hard (?6b). Great route though!
mes32 - AltLd O/S - 12/Jan/15 with Sally

Peter Metcalfe - Lead - 28/Dec/14 with Cath Sullivan

tompilgrem - AltLd O/S - 27/Dec/14 with Dad

Great Route.
bobpilgrem - AltLd O/S - 27/Dec/14 with Tom

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 24/Dec/14

alpinismo.uk - AltLd - 10/Dec/14 with Graham

therat - AltLd - 02/Dec/14

Amazing day out! Great views and a brilliant cave for having lunch
scottyskier82 - AltLd O/S - 02/Nov/14 with Ben Brierley

shaunnorfolk - AltLd β - Nov/14

Interesting climbing at the grade... Messed around on the approach to the (big) cave, didn't climb up to the small cave below (with tat) and moved right into chimney - doesn't feel right but goes and I think that's how it should be done. Take some nuts, particularly if not comfortable at the grade.
Braintax - AltLd - Nov/14

bensimons - AltLd dog - Nov/14

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 16/Oct/14

Found the route a little difficult to follow due to lack of bolts. Easy but extremely polished climbing, not many bolts at all so recommend taking a set of nuts, maybe a cam or two. Struggled on the abseil as you can't see where you're descending to, plus a sketchy traverse along a sloping ledge to the next bolts. We waited for another pair to descend first so we knew where to go. All in all with the hanging around took 9.5 hours, 9:00-18:30
nb148 - AltLd - 16/Oct/14 with Kim Caldwell

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 04/Oct/14

A truely fantastic route. Climbed with John Makin. Every pitch is interesting and enjoyable and was thankfully in the shade for the most part. We were going off the old Rockfax guidebook (which gives some confusing info from the cave) We climbed up 25m to what I imagine is the old belay, before abseiling down to the ledge below. This was the only chossy pitch and if I was to do it again I would just abseil the 8 meters from the cave (as described in the new guide book). Nice to get an additional pitch in though! Other than this, we didn't find the route finding difficult and didn't find it very polished. We carried a small rack, which was more than adequate. One of the most enjoyable routes that I have climbed in Spain and one that I will definitely repeat!
carlh - AltLd O/S - 02/Oct/14

Lead every pitch with the 6a variation through the small cave
gdjcoleman - Lead - Oct/14 with Joe begley, Simon

Quite polished and exposed in places
HP9 - AltLd O/S - 29/Sep/14 with Mark Hayes

Lead P2 & P4 as described in the Rockfax guide. Tried to lead P6 but made the fatal mistake of heading for the bit of tat in the cave. Should have traversed right much earlier.
leeds_belle - AltLd - 20/May/14 with Will

Hidden - 2nd dnf - 23/Apr/14

Climbed with neuromancer, got lost and finished up Los Miserables
s.scott - AltLd - 16/Apr/14

Led pitches 2, 4, 5, the abseil and then we got somewhat lost. The routefinding into the cave is tricky - guide says don't climb to tat (and don't - don't go into the bowl-like pockets below the cave) but the move just looks blank. We took our way right, swimming up a chimney. Then, we forgot to do the traverse pitch after the abseil and went straight up as it looked like easy climbing. Upside: Amazing climbing. Downside: finishing up Costa Blanca. 50m of 6c+ for a pair who barely climbed above 6a+ the rest of the week.
neuromancer - AltLd - 16/Apr/14 with s.scott

group of 5 one three and a two lead pitch 4 finished at top of pitch 5 run out of day light pitch two was very hard for a 4+
mikestr555 - AltLd - 27/Mar/14

Led pp 2,4,6+9
Chris Manasseh - AltLd - 12/Feb/14 with Nick Manasseh

mathematically safe - 06/Feb/14

Overrated imho, I particularly disliked the run out pitch of chimney swimming up fridge sized blocks that may or may not be held in with mud. May be easy climbing but lots of potential for things to go badly wrong.
Justin T - AltLd O/S - 20/Jan/14 with Nancy

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 24/Dec/13

Hidden - Lead - 18/Dec/13

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 18/Dec/13

John Pickles - AltLd O/S - 18/Dec/13 with Zac Poulton

John Pickles - AltLd O/S - 18/Dec/13 with Zac Poulton

jcooper8 - Lead O/S - 12/Dec/13

Powney - 2nd dnf - 05/Dec/13 with Drew

Hidden - AltLd O/S - Dec/13

Multi Pitch
adamsandy1 - AltLd O/S - 29/Nov/13

superb - quite polished in places, but still a classic!
Tom Phillips - AltLd O/S - 25/Nov/13 with leo

Easy enough climbing, very airy [and polished] in places, particularly the abseil. Delighted we did it after so many shorter climbs on Costa Blanca
Leofallon - AltLd - 25/Nov/13

Fantastic day out, although was up it in less than 6 hours. Could get away without taking any wires, there is enough fixed gear, at most half a dozen medium to large wires would suffice. One thing, wear some comfortable all day rock shoes. Superb adventure.
HappyTrundler - AltLd O/S - 22/Nov/13 with Irish Pete

Hidden - Lead O/S - 18/Nov/13

great route
martin one - Lead O/S - 06/Nov/13 with Lucy

Partner was having real problems leading the first two pitches so we backed off before completing pitch two due to lost time. I seconded pitch one and lead half of pitch two after Caroline backed off to retrieve my gear, left a shackle on the second built I think.
ElBarto - 2nd O/S - 06/Nov/13 with Caroline Priston

lead the first and final pitch, found everything in between hard. Lots of pulling up on your arms.
Wildstyle - AltLd dog - 06/Nov/13 with Martin Lennon

Got half way up the second pitch, hard within the grade, could have done with a bit of extra trad gear.
Caroline 2010 - AltLd dnf - 06/Nov/13

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 26/Oct/13

Hidden - Lead O/S - 26/Oct/13

2010_graham - AltLd O/S - 22/Oct/13 with David B

With mike and mark and the whole crag to ourselves
How easy - AltLd - 21/Oct/13

Absolute classic. Climbed as a group of three in 7.5 hours, with the entire crag to ourselves. Climbing is consistently good throughout, well worth 3* in my opinion.
stonemikey - AltLd - 21/Oct/13 with Stu Howie, Mark Ward

TwoChimes - AltLd O/S - 21/Oct/13 with Davy H

Hidden - 2nd - 07/Oct/13

DrJon - 2nd O/S - 07/May/13 with Henry, John

Excellent route, with the exception of the awful chimney pitch. Rained rather heavily on the pitch after the abseil. Recommend not taking a bag as several awkward thrutchy moments!
JamieSparkes - Lead O/S - 06/Apr/13 with Claire Holland

Found pitch 2 a little too scary with spaced bolts. Used lots of gear to get almost to the top but bottled out and abbed off... maybe next year!
gsavell - Lead dnf - 15/Mar/13 with Sarah Knight

Stone Muppet - AltLd O/S - 14/Mar/13 with jg, md

Abbed off top of p2. Looks awesome.
Binder - AltLd dnf - 09/Jan/13 with Dave J

andybroadway - AltLd O/S - 28/Dec/12 with Heike Puchan

andrew549 - AltLd O/S - 19/Dec/12 with Pos

josh Bamsey - AltLd O/S - 18/Dec/12

RKirke - AltLd O/S - 18/Dec/12 with josh Bamsey

TiffTiff - AltLd O/S - 18/Dec/12 with Jo Davison

Hidden - AltLd - 16/Dec/12

Lead 2,4,9. Every pitch really good, I preferred this to Costa Blanca.
Jonathan Emett - AltLd O/S - 13/Dec/12 with orange sam

Bisteris - 2nd O/S - 14/Nov/12 with Andy Newton

Great adventure. Every belay has new double ring bolts now.
Marti999 - Lead O/S - 05/Nov/12 with Debbie

debbie roberts - 2nd - 05/Nov/12 with Marti999

chris smith - AltLd O/S - 31/Oct/12

Jim Brownlow - AltLd O/S - 24/Oct/12 with Ben Burns

Just over 6 hours. Good climbing.
Rampikino - Lead - 12/Apr/12 with Cat

Hidden - AltLd dnf - 11/Apr/12

Hidden - AltLd dnf - 11/Apr/12

Mario Grabinski - AltLd - 11/Apr/12 with Allan Gil

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 02/Apr/12

Lev - AltLd O/S - 02/Apr/12 with Emma Ross

Hidden - AltLd O/S - Apr/12

jon clayton - AltLd - Apr/12 with sasha

cheeky - AltLd O/S - 23/Mar/12 with Dale Knox

Good route. Well bolted as only run out on easy sections. Rack not necessary if confident at the grade. Great intro to Penon. 4 hours.
ianjfsutcliffe - AltLd O/S - 16/Mar/12 with Coatesy

Soloed pitch 1, lead pitches 4, 6, 10
Richard P Coates - AltLd O/S - 16/Mar/12 with ianjfsutcliffe

Very cold morning so snoozed amongst the cacti beneath the route until the sun came round. Nobody else around. Took a rack of nuts 3-11 plus a couple of hexs and a few slings and glad of them. Led P1,3,5,8 and 10. (Mike strung P6&7 together). Highlights were the start of P3 (bolted, thankfully), the last section of P4 (an exciting wake-up call for what was to come), all of P6 (especially the reachy moves up to the bolt from the jammed block and most of P9 and 10. Made a meal of the abseil which didn't turn out to be as difficult as it looked - make sure the first one down has a means of locking off the abseil (e.g. prusik) but it all came good in the end. Tabby cats instead of Barbery apes greeted us on the summit. Relaxing descent. Rewarded ourselves with beer and paella at the harbour. A memorable day. Back next year to tackle the 6b+ version of Costa Blanca climb.
Steve Waters, Mynydd - AltLd - 13/Feb/12 with Mike Tempest

mtempest - AltLd - 13/Feb/12 with Steve Waters, Mynydd

Hidden - 2012

Hidden - AltLd - 01/Dec/11

Hidden - 2nd - 19/Nov/11

LukeyG - AltLd - Oct/11

Pitch 4: Alan decided to go off route on the left crack (we both found this hard). Pitch 7 and 8: I climbed up to look for anchors but didn't like the look of it all. Instead, we used the abseil to the left and traversed across to the anchors below. Took 5 hours
Rowan Mitchell - AltLd O/S - 30/Sep/11 with Alan Murray

Josh Dickerson - 2nd O/S - Aug/11 with Andy Dickerson

Amazing climbing!
LittleLuka - 2nd - 04/May/11 with Alison, Andy

well... it was a great adventure, most climbing was nice, having lunch in a cave was awesome and the view from the top was amazing! but getting confused by the rockfax description meant we had 13 belays, went a bit of route and as a result ended up doing what felt like 6b moves to get out of the 2 small caves below the large one. note to self - go very far right after the pinnacle!
krasavenko - AltLd O/S - 03/Apr/11 with Morgan Trigg

Triggalicious - AltLd - 03/Apr/11 with Liyen Nhuyen

Lev - AltLd O/S - 02/Apr/11 with Emma Ross

Hidden - AltLd - 30/Mar/11

tmawer - AltLd rpt - 25/Mar/11 with andrea

Hidden - AltLd - Mar/11

kelly_426 - AltLd - Mar/11 with Sasha Doyle

Led last 2 pitches
mick1jones - AltLd dog - 24/Feb/11 with Ellin, Dave

Hidden - Lead - 30/Jan/11

basically lead the whole thing except pitch 3 maybe? the 4+
khmhau - Lead O/S - 04/Jan/11 with Nick Barrow

Lead every pitch clean, was an epic day! Note to self, Anasazis are NOT comfortable all day shoes!
tomhennigan - Lead O/S - 03/Jan/11 with Jamie Parkin

Jo Davison - AltLd O/S - 03/Jan/11 with Ed Searle

scamble pitch 1 no ropes. Lead pitch 2, 4, 6, 8 and 10
Tom Downes - AltLd O/S - 03/Jan/11 with Luke Fuggle

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 01/Jan/11

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 01/Jan/11

Probably the most memorable climb of my life to date
marcb - AltLd O/S - 01/Jan/11 with James Ryan

Hidden - 2011

not as good as the first time, experience is cool but climbing itself is mediocore. çwe also got benighted as we were stuck behind a really slow group of 3 so we had to do the last 3-4 pitches in the pitch black.
Robin Head - Lead rpt - 30/Dec/10 with Jen

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 30/Dec/10

What an adventure! First multi-pitch, first abseil and first benightment!
JenDurden - 2nd β - 30/Dec/10 with Robin

Hidden - 2nd - 15/Dec/10

i fell on p6- so polished 2 moves desperate
dan ely - AltLd dog - 04/Dec/10 with christian the german

Hidden - AltLd - 16/Nov/10

Took forever after having to wait for a bunch of 3 Finnish guys that carried on up where they should have abseiled and came back down when the realised their error. Take plenty of fluids and get their early to catch the worm!!
andeeeee - 2nd - 04/Nov/10 with Nick Read

Hidden - AltLd O/S - Nov/10

barney_edin - AltLd - 21/Oct/10 with Sue G

Andy Fielding - AltLd - 18/Oct/10 with Andy Sanders

Fantastic day. Longest day climbing ever. Approx 8 hours. Memories will last forever.
Sandrex - AltLd - 18/Oct/10 with Andy Fielding

Seb31 - AltLd - Aug/10

Lead all pitches. Got the rope stuck on the abseil.
chri55ie - Lead O/S - 09/Apr/10 with Tom Taylor

Started about 9am. Got to the top about 11pm so climbed the last pitch in the dark! Good climb, a bit of everything: laybacks, traverses, chimney/cave, and an abseil.
samcook - 2nd - 30/Mar/10 with Alex Higgs, Luke Randall

At 13 hrs from start to finish this turned into a bit of an epic! Nothing went wrong, just very slow going as a team of three, plus we got stuck behind a pair who got well and truly stuck on the crux pitch so we had to go and offer assistance. Lead all pitches except pitch 2. Some brilliant climbing, not always well protected. Definately comparable to HVS as in Rockfax.
lrandall - Lead O/S - 30/Mar/10 with Sam Cook, Alex

Lead pitches 3, 5 and 9. Didn't take any trad gear with us, but found that you didn't really need it, though might be nice to have some on piches 2 and 3 as very spaced bolts! Overall time of 4 and a quarter hours starting at 9am. Get there early as queues later.
Matt Smith - AltLd O/S - 27/Mar/10 with Paddy Williams

Lead pitches 1,4,6,7 and 10 Did not have any Trad gear on us, did not need any. Sometimes the bolts were a bit spaced but those parts where generally straight forward. Only confusing bit: The belay at the bottom of the cave is really in the right hand corner of the bottom of the cave (actually a belay of another route) we did not use it, but it caused a lot of rope drag! General advise: Take a camelbak with you it is very warm up there! start early to avoid queing took us 6 hours no headtorches required.
Robin Head - AltLd O/S - 26/Mar/10 with Hugh Jackson

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 26/Mar/10

Started at 10. Finished at 8
martinp - AltLd - 20/Mar/10 with Dave S and Alan C

fantastic climb! forgot how "adventurously bolted" it was
mrstarwarsman - AltLd - Mar/10 with matt smith

Great route, perfect weather. Led pitches 2 and 4
erica - 03/Feb/10 with John

Big route, big day, big smile
John Brayshaw - Lead O/S - 03/Feb/10 with Erica

seeroo - 2nd O/S - 21/Jan/10 with Scone

Hidden - 2010

Lead pitch 3 (5+), 5 (4), 6 (5+), 7 (Scramble), 8 (ab seil), 9 (4), 10 (4+) Seconded pitch 2 (4+), 4 (5) Soloed pitch 1 (Scramble)
ASchwirtz - Lead O/S - 31/Dec/09 with Ian Bruce

A brilliant route but as others have stated you may need more than a light rack (and headtorches) to ensure a good day out! We took just one set of nuts and a size 4 cam, lots of threads and enough quickdraws so that we could discard a few enroute. It's also a good idea to make sure you've got Alex and Chip climbing above you to show you the way down when you top out in the dark. Thanks guys. Tommy lead 1st, 3rd, 5th, 7th, 8th (abseil), 9th (dusk) and 10th (very dark). Sir Rich lead 2nd, 4th and 6th
tommyzero - Lead RP - 20/Dec/09 with Sir Rich Mc Rich

Fantastic route, made it into a really relaxing day taking in the sun at the belays, shortly after our afternoon siesta in the cave we decided to get a move on!!! Superb climbing with great positions. This is not a sport route (hence the HVS in the guidebook)! Took a set of nuts and 4 cams BD .5, .75, 1, and red, you may not use that much gear, but its definately worth having to make the route more enjoyable. Arrived at the car in good time, the pair that set off behind us didn't take HEADTORCHES and may have needed some assistance on the way down, eh Chris and Rich, thanks for the beers!! Checklist: Nuts 1-10, Cams 4, 15 Quickdraws to be safe and Headtorches!! Abseil bolts are left of belay bolts on the face to the left of the cave (peer out), dont climb up to the tat in the cave. Enjoy
alexrafferty1986 - Lead O/S - 20/Dec/09 with Chip Rafferty

Extended pitch 5 to the stance on top of the pinnacle. From there went straight up, via a tricky move escaping right from a small cave below the main cave, to the abseil stance. The 'large clump of tat' mentioned in the old guide for abseiling, has happily been replaced with double bolts. A few cams and a set of nuts were useful but not essential. Matt, P1&2, P4, Mod P6, P8. Stu, P3, P5 (To Pinnacle), Abseil, P9
Mattzx6r - AltLd - 04/Dec/09 with Stu

sonic46 - 2nd - 04/Dec/09 with Stu, Pete Collins, Matt Page

6.5 Hrs climbing. Suggest a bit more than a 'light rack' unless you are very confident. Don't confuse it with a sports grade 5. Double bolt belays and ab rings on all pitches. Sparsely bolted on pitches except on the tricky bits. Description / topo is confusing around the cave / abseil pitches. Double bolt belay at top of P7 is at lower left side of the cave - don't be tempted to scramble up to the top of the cave. Lean out over the void and look left for double bolt ab point - big bunch of ab tat has been removed. Brilliant experience.
rilem - 16/Nov/09 with Rog S

Adderbury Climber - 2nd dog - Nov/09 with Al Randal

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 23/Oct/09

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 23/Oct/09

sgl - AltLd O/S - 21/Sep/09 with mallard and ben

Lead pitches 2 and 4
chri55ie - AltLd - 19/Apr/09 with Alan Gill

MonkeyDawson - Lead - 31/Mar/09 with Liz Brooker

Hidden - AltLd dog - 13/Mar/09

Creation Climbing Centre - Lead O/S - Feb/09 with Ian Gee

3 hours 20 minutes. Followed by Via Valancianos in the afternoon! Pitch 1 - Hol; Pitch 2 - Hol; Pitch 3 - Dave; Pitch 4 - Hol; Pitch 5 - Dave; Pitch 6 - Hol; Pitch 7 - Hol; Pitch 8 - ab; Pitch 9 - Hol; Pitch 10 - Dave.
DavidR - AltLd O/S - 02/Jan/09 with Holly Adamthwaite

Got a little over-confident after cruising up 4+ and 5 sports routes all week, and bit off more than I could chew with this one. Hard, thuggish, thrutchy climbing on horribly polished rock and sparse bolts. Couldn't overcome the crux on my lead on pitch 2 (which felt like the harder end of VS), so ended up setting up a belay in a somewhat precarious position mid-pitch to bring Dave up to finish it off for me. I then struggled to second it, getting totally pumped. Decided we'd rather not have a complete epic and abbed off from the top of pitch 2, to my great relief. Spent the rest of the day quietly sporting a thousand-yard stare.... Grading (and by all accounts the topos) in the old Cicerone Costa Blanca Rock Guide appears more accurate than the new RockFax guide. Dave would have romped up it given a more equally matched partner.
CathS - AltLd dnf - 02/Jan/09 with Dave Clark

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 02/Jan/09

Hidden - Lead - 02/Jan/09

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 02/Jan/09

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 31/Dec/08

Also climbed with Hannah Bostrom. Unfortunately, this route was beyond me, only my 2nd multipitch route of such proportions. Hating every second of the 2nd pitch my partner made the wise choice of retreating before the climb became a major epic for me. Shook my confidence a fair amount and have vowed to attempt some more multipitch moutain routes in the future.
staceyjg - 2nd - 31/Dec/08 with Chris Gardner

Only climbed to the top of pitch 6 and then found ourselves confused by the abseil description in the guide book. Backed off as time was getting tight. Great route though with loads of charachter.
al99 - AltLd O/S - 29/Dec/08 with Martina Zandonella

martinazando - AltLd - 28/Dec/08 with Al Benson

Lauren Davies - AltLd O/S - 17/Dec/08 with Crazy Tom

TonyP - Lead O/S - 12/Dec/08 with Boggy

On arriving at the cave, did not see ab lower off, and instead climbed the left side of the cave, and ab'd of the most horrible bit of rusty tat I have ever used (complemented by stunning 200m drop). spotted lower off on way down and chalked it up to a very important life lesson (whilst wetting myself about current lower off). Very relieved to get away with that one.
funsized - Lead O/S - Dec/08

Tom Downes - AltLd O/S - Dec/08 with steven mayer

shat my pants and had 2 7m falls. Worth it!
mrstarwarsman - AltLd - Dec/08 with john tanner

too tired to finish! did half the route, enough to convince me to go back to climbing after 10 year break :-)
MikaelW - 2nd dnf - 22/Nov/08 with Keegan

jamie ward - AltLd O/S - 05/Oct/08 with Luke Rooker

Mr Tickle - AltLd O/S - 05/Oct/08 with Martyn Eales

Hidden - AltLd - Sep/08

Led 1st pitch, Daf led the rest
Christian Reynish - AltLd O/S - 11/Mar/08 with Daffyd Jones

Chris led 1st pitch. Led the rest. 6.5 hours. Amazing route for the grade. "Big", thrutchy, exposed climbing. Route description is now inaccurate. 3. Don't go past possible stance on large ledge, but use it. 5. Carry on past shady spot behind pinnacle to 3BB on top of jammed block. 6. Believe I went too far right here, to smooth crack of "Puto" at same grade. Should go straight up wall to belay on 2BB at bottom left of cave. Ab station out on front face on left. 7+8. Ab down to ledge, using tufa to assist traverse over to 3BB. (With hindsight should have just threaded the ab station, and lowered to ledge and traversed over to farthest BB on ledge.) 9. Traverse about 10m into corner, then continue right up past large thread and large spiky bush to 3BB below final corner.
DafSWMC - AltLd O/S - 11/Mar/08 with Christian

Hidden - 2nd dog - 26/Jan/08

Got rope stuck on ab out of cave, had to descend to ledge below Pinnacle, traverse across to Piratas and continue up two pitches of that and the rest of Diedro UBSA. Things started getting a bit fraught as darkness fell.
Peter Metcalfe - AltLd - 25/Jan/08 with David Jones

Perfect rock, route, weather, climbing, company, scenery... a route so good I giggled to myself on the belays and shouted to anyone who'd listen as I pulled up the cracks. A day to keep me warm through this season's shivering belays & abandoned Scottish days. Superb.
KeithW - AltLd O/S - 04/Jan/08 with Corky

CarolineH - AltLd - 04/Jan/08 with Neil

Phil PBC - 2008

Fab climbing with exposed positions. 4.5 hours. Led evens.
kitkat78 - AltLd O/S - 30/Dec/07 with SteveM

Bolted. Placed one nut on the first pitch though.
laurent - AltLd O/S - 30/Dec/07

SteveM - AltLd O/S - 30/Dec/07 with Kat

Hidden - Lead O/S - 27/Dec/07

jh5638 - Lead O/S - 18/Dec/07 with Ian Gould

Hidden - Dec/07

cat22 - AltLd O/S - Dec/07 with Mike

haydng - Lead O/S - 17/Nov/07 with Rachel

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 06/Nov/07

Hidden - 2nd β - 19/Oct/07

All but 2 pitches, fantastic route with an exposed absail.
climbingrick - AltLd O/S - 29/Apr/07

steven - AltLd O/S - Apr/07 with Brian Hull

Julie Carroll - 2nd - Mar/07 with Rich Mayfield

Hidden - AltLd - 28/Jan/07

timharrison - Lead dnf - 25/Dec/06 with Trevor Macalonan

trevor macalonan - Lead dnf - 25/Dec/06 with pete swift

a far far better route than via valencious
dave o - AltLd O/S - Dec/06 with James R

pauelo - AltLd O/S - 12/Nov/06 with Carles Solís

Hidden - Lead O/S - 10/Nov/06

charlesmfrench - AltLd O/S - 31/Oct/06 with Martina

Simon Allcock - AltLd - Oct/06 with nick

Amazing day out.
Darragh - AltLd - Sep/06 with Pat

Hidden - AltLd dog - 07/Apr/06

If you have been sport cragging, prepare to be surprised by how thrutchy a lot of this is!
Sankey - AltLd O/S - 25/Mar/06 with Luke

Amazing route! Fabulous climbing, views and position! The route that has it all!
richw2k2 - AltLd O/S - 24/Mar/06 with Dale

Hidden - Lead O/S - 09/Mar/06

Lead: P3 (5+); second half of P4 (5); P6 (5+); P10 (4+).
thebigfriendlymoose - AltLd O/S - Mar/06 with Stephen

Al led first pitch and 4th (4) - can't remember how many we took, but it was 6:30 when we finished and 8:30 by the time we got down. Going wrong after the pinacle didn't help
Chris the Tall - Lead O/S - 18/Jan/06 with Al Evans

Very committing, good gear and great views!
ross1983 - Lead O/S - 05/Jan/06 with Nick Heasman

andy jennings - AltLd O/S - Jan/06

King Rat - 2006

mikelaing - 2006

Great route
HansStuttgart - 2006

Fat Tim - 2nd O/S - Dec/05 with Rob McGregor

I think I led the odd-numbered pitches.
will_benfold - AltLd O/S - Dec/05 with Tom G

10 pitches.
Will Gordon - Lead O/S - Dec/05 with Laurence Hooper

Hidden - AltLd - 22/Oct/05

Shaw Brown - AltLd - 25/Apr/05 with simon blythe

Ramon Marin - AltLd O/S - 24/Apr/05 with Gavin Lim

Led pitches:2,3,5,6,9,10,11,12
Oli - AltLd O/S - 02/Apr/05 with Ian Killey/Emily Lomas

Hidden - 2nd - 16/Feb/05

Hidden - 2nd - 16/Feb/05

Chris v. tired after crack climbing. Tricky pendulum abseil from the cave - prussik?
Robbie H - Lead O/S - 03/Jan/05 with Chris Wright

chris warner - Lead - Dec/04 with lewi williams

Hidden - AltLd O/S - Oct/04

Hidden - AltLd - 05/Mar/04

Kyuzo - AltLd RP - Mar/04 with Bernard Lam

Hidden - AltLd O/S - Mar/04

hal - Mar/04

Hidden - AltLd - 25/Jan/04

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 09/Jan/04

Hidden - 2004

Being one of our 1st multipitches, it was the obligatory epic. Carrying enough crap with us we could survive a nuclear winter, we took far too long and was overtaken by 2 spanish dudes dressed only in pants.
dannyboy83 - AltLd O/S - Dec/03 with Ian Lovatt

Spillers - AltLd - Oct/03 with Randy

7.5 hours
DavidR - AltLd O/S - 28/Apr/03 with Jemma Wadham

Mark Collins - AltLd O/S - 19/Mar/03 with Gavin Hetherington

Stuart & Hen
Mark Riley - AltLd O/S - Mar/03

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 2003

Hidden - AltLd - 14/Oct/02

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 09/May/02

Led p 3, 4, 6 & 10. Took a long fall near top of p6 when a handhold snapped
cem - AltLd O/S - 31/Mar/01 with Sally Dipple

Hidden - AltLd - 2001

dan gibson - AltLd O/S - Nov/00 with helen gibson

Hidden - AltLd O/S - Oct/00

Hidden - AltLd rpt - Oct/00

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 13/Apr/00

dickypips - 2nd - Feb/00 with john richards

Tenko - AltLd - 27/Apr/99 with John Hine

King Rat - AltLd O/S - 1999 with A

tjekel - 1999

steve prior - AltLd - Nov/98 with Andy C

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 1998

craig h - AltLd O/S - 12/Apr/96 with Janet Hannah

Hidden - AltLd - Dec/95

Fun adventure
EddieA - AltLd O/S - Nov/95 with Simon W

I led a couple of easy pitches Dave took the rest.
John Simpson - AltLd O/S - 1995 with Dave Wilson

OMSKB - Lead - Dec/93

Budge - AltLd O/S - Feb/93 with Richard Teed

Lead Ps 1 3 5 7 & 9
Mick King - AltLd - 21/Jan/93 with Pete Hankinson

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 05/Jan/93

ChrisJD - AltLd - Jan/92

steve taylor - AltLd - Dec/91 with stumpy

Hidden - 1980

Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
jordangolding, atom, Ctprice, Pluto, Valentino, gsavell, vix, ravedave1806, Steve Waters, Mynydd, Sianny, sweenyt, clairepoppett, ab tat, A Downing, badgerspoke, Alan100

Total votes cast 171
hard 6a0 of 85
6a0 of 85
easy 6a4 of 85
hard 5c25 of 85
5c56 of 85
easy 5c0 of 85
hard 5a0 of 85
5a0 of 85
easy 5a0 of 85
3 Stars77 of 86
2 Stars7 of 86
1 Star2 of 86
0 Stars0 of 86
Bag of .....0 of 86
Please Login as Existing User to rate this climb.
Style of ascent
Alt Leads
Clean O/S
Clean β
Clean repeat
Clean RP