This amazing route takes a line up the awe-inspiring right-hand side of the vast South Face of the Peñón. After a very hard first pitch, it relents and then builds again to a superb climax on the wild headwall. Take a small rack for the three easier pitches, which shouldn't be underestimated, and prusik loops in case you manage to loose contact from pitches 8 or 9. The easier middle pitches are loose.
1) 7b, 35m. The line of black bolts is harder than it looks. The crux in the middle leads to a hands-off rest. Take a good breather here since the upper section is tough. A final hard move gains the belay - phew!
2) 7a, 35m. Climb straight up the wide crack behind the stance and follow the line over two awkward bulges above. The line of bolts out to the left of the stance is an enjoyable alternative 6c pitch which gets a bit lost higher up by a thin slab.
3) 6b+, 50m. A huge long pitch, take lots of quick-draws.
4) 6c+, 40m. The short hard wall, then easy ground to a belay on a big ledge below a hanging seat - a good spot for lunch.
5) 5, 20m. Step right around the corner past a peg. Follow the loose groove and step right onto a belay above a pillar.
6) 5+, 30m. Teeter left (peg and bolt). Continue into a bay then left to a thread. Squirm back up (bolt) right to a ledge.
7) 5+, 35m. Meander up to a rib towards a solitary bolt and belly-flop onto the next ledge. Walk right and pick your jaw up off the ground after you have seen where the next pitch goes.
8) 6c, 25m. Enjoy the position as you tip-toe up the groove, then launch up the big holds to grab the blobs, praying that they don't break off. From the security of the belay, take a deep breath and have a look down.
9) 6c, 40m. Follow the hanging groove to a thin pull onto the wall above. Continue past a couple of ledges to a good stance.
10) -, 40m. Scramble up right past two grooves then double back left to reach the top. © ROCKFAX
FA. Roy de Valera, Juan Carmelo Merino 1991
Photo: Dominic on the hanging stance above pitch 8 (6c)
© dominic o
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This climb is in 6 logbooks, and on no wishlists.
Hidden - Lead dog - 13/Dec/14
All nine pitches clean, not a single fall - YAYA! Lead the first pitch, as well as the 6b+, two of the trad pitches, and the last hard pitch. Found the first pitch to be really strenous, and felt like you couldn't use any of the big holds lest they fall off... Given E5 6b in the guide, maybe due to the bolts being in dodgy rock? Amazing last two pitches though, looking up I couldn't believe they would go at 6c, but they really did!
Joughton - AltLd O/S - 20/Feb/13
Shame the 7b pitch is a bag of #### because the rest of the route is outstanding. 6b+ pitch is awesome but the first of the top 6c pitches is 'strictly space-walking' to a hanging stance to end all...
dominic o - 21/Jan/13
sharpie - AltLd O/S - Mar/00 with Martyn
Alan James - UKC and UKH - AltLd - Dec/98 with Craig Smith
Hidden - AltLd O/S - 30/Dec/97