E4. A fine climb with contrasting climbing. There are some bolts on key sections but a full trad rack is also required. Start below and right of the large pinnacle.
1) 6a, 45m. Climb the slab right to belay below the red wall.
2) 6c, 30m. The groove leads up the steep red wall - bolted.
3) 6b, 20m. Climb the groove on the right to a ledge. Continue up to another ledge with bolt belays.
4) 5, 45m. Go across to a broken corner, and up to a cave.
5) 6a, 30m. Climb the steep wall, move leftwards to a slab and up this to a ledge.
6) and 7) As for Aorangi.
8) 6b+, 40m. Up Aorangi but pull right to a crack, up to a cave.
9) 6b+, 50m. The roof on the right, trend left to join Aorangi. © Rockfax
FA. R.Edwards, C.Edwards 1996