Espolón Central*** 4c
[Andy Page, finishing the last pitch of 'Espolon Central' on the Puig Campana, Costa Blanca, 3 kb]425m, 13 pitches. One of the longest routes in the book is a great mountaineering experience. It follows the huge pillar on the left-hand side of the face at a relatively easy grade (British ‘Severe' at most) if don't you stray off route. Despite this, the route shouldn’t be underestimate since route-finding can be tricky, and the length of the climbing makes for a very tiring day with descents in darkness not uncommon. This route has a bad reputation amongst the local rescue service for accidents many of which happen on the descent. If in any doubt about your ability to climb and descend the route quickly, make sure you start as early as possible. A fast ascent will take around 6 hours but allow yourself at least 10 hours of daylight. Also ensure that you inform someone where you are going and when you expect to be back, or leave a note in your car to that effect.APPROACH - Walk up the scree slope going up to the centre of the lower wall of the South Face. You arrive on a wide ledge below the face itself, the area of the Direct Start. Continue leftwards to a cairn below a short steep wall. Scramble up this - the timid may need a rope. Continue up rightwards to reach the rib forming the edge of the buttress. 1) 2) and 3) grade 3, 120m. Follow the right edge of the ridge selecting belays where convenient to reach the large ledge which splits this part of the mountain. 1) to 3) Quick Alternative. Continue up the broken ground behind the ridge, in a gully, until you reach a groove with a large pine at its top. Climb right to the same ledge as above. Walk along the ledge to its end, above is a slab with trees. 4) 3, 45m. Climb the slab to the tree and continue up broken grooves and aretes, trending right, to reach another large ledge. 5) 25m. Scramble horizontally right to the arete proper, threads. Avoid the broken grooves on the left or slabs above the ledge. 6) 4, 25m. Climb up the arete to the next good ledge. 7) 4, 50m. Up the arete moving left at the top to a ledge and peg belay. Retreat is possible from here using a bolt on the left. 8) 4, 35m. Climb the groove on the left of the pillar and continue up easily to a large tree. 9) 10m. Scramble right over ledges to the base of a steeper wall. Alternative to pitches 8 and 9 - 8a) 4, 35m. Climb the right side of the pillar then hand traverse left onto the arete, up this and the short wall above to a ledge. 9a) 4, 25m. Follow the arete to the base of the wall. 10) 4, 30m. Trend left and follow the groove to the crest, or climb the groove to the left, or the centre of the wall (slightly harder). Beware loose blocks near the top of this pitch. 11) 4, 50m. Climb the arete by the groove on the left. Continue up ledges to a good thread belay. 12) 4, 30m. Climb the ridge by cracks and grooves to the large ledge. Climb the zig-zag crack to a good belay but poor pegs. 13) 4, 30m. The groove on the right leads to easy ground. A further 20m of scrambling reaches a boulder with a faded red paint mark on it. From here a long traverse right (cairns) can be made to reach the far gully - see photo opposite. © ROCKFAX
FA. J.Roig, C.Torregrosa, M.Gascon 1965

Ticklists: Mountain Rock (big mid grade summit routes on rock!), Costa Blanca in a Week Tick List, Costa Blanca "Must Do" routes.

Photo: Andy Page, finishing the last pitch of 'Espolon Central' on the Puig Campana, Costa Blanca © purple sue
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This climb is in 295 logbooks, and on 48 wishlists.

Solo'd p1, then alt leads taking the odd pitches. Brilliant day out - walked in witg head torches to miss the main heat of the day - this is doable but dont turn off left from the path to the face early as we did.as youll end up having to scramble a steep wall before the start (not shown in guide topo). Car to car was 9.5hours, climbing 6.5 and descent 1hr40 with two of us. There's about 4 bolts on the whole thing outside of the belays so you do need gear. Epic.
andyevans - AltLd O/S - 10/Oct/14 with cdpuk

9.5h car to car. Approached in darkness which caused us to miss the start as we couldn't see the oval shaped recess. Found it as the sun came up. Set of wires, 1-3 dragons and 8 QDs fine for a competent team. Stunning views. Unpleasant descent but be sure to go to the left of the scree to find a slightly more solid path. Solo P1 then alt leads excluding grade 1's.
cdpuk - AltLd O/S - 10/Oct/14 with Andrew Evans

gdjcoleman - AltLd O/S - Oct/14 with Simon

Scrambled first three pitches due to overshooting start point and losing time. Left car at 0945. Started climbing 1045. Reached summit at 1630. Returned to car at 1900
mike96 - 2nd O/S - 04/Jun/14 with James Wyatt

Skullfire - Lead O/S - 15/May/14 with Jun Minohara

Loubylou - 14/May/14 with Mark Edwards

robblowen - Lead O/S - 04/May/14 with Joe Wakefield

JoeWakefield - 2nd - 04/May/14 with Rob Blowen

Lovely Climb, It took us 12 hours car to car as we took little breaks, nice long lunch and enjoying all the climb without rushing it.
PilarMartinez - Lead O/S - 25/Apr/14 with StweRat Walker

Hidden - Lead - 04/Apr/14

SPK06 - AltLd - Apr/14 with tony

Stuart Macfarlane - AltLd O/S - 25/Mar/14 with Jeanie

Lead all pitches except scrambles
Luke Jones - Lead O/S - 06/Mar/14 with Jim

Hidden - Solo O/S - 28/Feb/14

Climbed with intention to finish in 6 hours. It took us 8 hours. We lost time between pitch 6-9. Got off route I believe on pitch 11. When's too far left as it looked easier at first. Completed the down climb to the scree in the daylight. Arrived at the scree as it turned dark. If we had been 10 min shower we would have had an epic trying to descend. The decent path is easy in daylight as piles of rocks and red markings make it e asy to find your way. Once in becomes dark you cannot see far enough with a a head torch to find the route down. Allow 2 hours for the decent. You can escape from any pitch to the bottom with a pair of ropes however we didn't climb with a pair. Only the last 4 pitches had proper bolt belays. The odd bolt and peg was ween on the way which wears not always very helpful as it can pull you off the correct path. Personal recommendation for rack. - full send of nuts cams and a bunch of slings, nothing special required. All in all a Fantastic climb and highly recommended.
madguernseyboy - AltLd O/S - 27/Feb/14 with Lucy Plowman

lgp81 - AltLd O/S - 27/Feb/14 with Brendan Gill

mrteale - Solo rpt - 20/Feb/14

Totally wicked climb
Michael Haywood - AltLd - 14/Feb/14 with Tim Chamberlain

+ Direct Start and Edwards finish = 13 hour round trip (mainly from spending a lot of time at the summit). Beautiful route which exceeded expectations. We got to the base of the direct start for an amazing sunrise and thank god we did as we were chased up the route by a czech couple and a pair of valenthians. Simul climbed so thankfully were moving much faster than them and didn't get stuck at belay ledges (as the czech couple were). Blessed with a good weather window as it blew an absolute gale the next night. Highly recommended!
derryclimbs - Lead O/S - 26/Jan/14

atapper21 - Solo O/S - 21/Jan/14

mark20 - Solo O/S - 05/Jan/14

Awesome route with Ollie moving together as an alternative to pitching - 45 mins walk in, 3 hours climbing, 1hur 45min descent.
red_rhodesha - 2nd - 03/Jan/14

4 hours 32 minutes. Me - pitches 1, 3, 5, 7, 9, 11, 13. Hol - pithes 2, 4, 6, 8, 10, 12. Great route. Done with Kev Bowser and Dave Clark behind us.
DavidR - AltLd O/S - 03/Jan/14 with Holly Adamthwaite

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 03/Jan/14

Lead by guide - Mark Edwards
davidanthony - 2nd O/S - Jan/14

bob johnson - 30/Dec/13 with Bram

Hidden - 29/Dec/13

Amazing day! Pissed it down 3 pitches from the top and got to climb some pretty exposed sections on sopping rock and then descent the scree slope inside a cloud. Great climbing.
mrteale - AltLd O/S - 19/Dec/13

Great route, did a variation after the second big ledge at about VS 4c
alooker - AltLd O/S - 19/Dec/13 with Alex, Ed

scott mayled - Lead O/S - 18/Nov/13 with A student

JonesJ - AltLd - 18/Nov/13

One pitch towards the top either pitch 10 or 11 we turned it into a higher grade 5 or 5+ going off the route. 8 hrs spent walking and climbing. Got a bit lost in the dark on the walk off walking the wrong way up the road towards the car.
Jonny Harrison - 2nd O/S - 15/Nov/13

Awesome. Climbing fast and staying well ahead of Norwegians until they shortcut pitches 5 and 6 together. Grrr:) Doesn't go to the summit, but amazing views of Benidorm and descent is almost as exposed as the climb and fun in itself. Snowing at the end for full mountain experience.
five - Lead O/S - 15/Nov/13 with ALA

Only managed first three pitches due to time. A long walk in and off. Need trad gear. A good climb (first three pitches) NEXT YEAR!!!
lgp81 - AltLd dnf - 08/Nov/13 with Caroline 2010

Only managed first three pitches due to time. A long walk in and off. Need trad gear. A good climb (first three pitches) NEXT YEAR!!!
Caroline 2010 - AltLd dnf - 08/Nov/13 with lgp81

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 08/Nov/13

Running_Board - AltLd O/S - 06/Nov/13

Hidden - Lead - 01/Nov/13

Awesome route! (although not HS) Led P2,4,7,10,12. Fraser a bit off route on P11, made for a VS/HVS pitch... rest of the route only VDiff/S though.
cathymiller - AltLd O/S - 25/Oct/13 with fraser barrett

Tarquin - Lead - 16/Oct/13 with Louise

Louvet - 2nd - 16/Oct/13 with Tarquin

Possibly the most intense day of my life. Approaching Puig Campana in the dark for Sams second ever multi-pitch (1st on trad.), 11 pitches of awesome trad, all led. excellent banter with some Spanish climbers. An exciting via ferrata exit. The weather closing in just as we descended, with ace scree surfing. Then hearing shouts of help through the cloud, Mountain rescue promptly called. Back to the orange house for a much needed beer.
BenedictIEP - Lead O/S - 09/Oct/13 with Sam Carey, Vicky Jennings, Chris Surfleet

Most epic climbing adventure day yet... Quick start, just after dawn, dodging falling rocks. Lead pitches 4, 6, 8, 9, 10 and 12. With clouds moving in a quick decent on the via ferrata (which does not protect much, scary). Then a very long scree slope in the rain... heard calls for help on the mountain as walked out called mountain rescue... hope they were ok. Big day out... Awesome route :-)
vix - AltLd O/S - 09/Oct/13 with chris

With direct start and Edwards finish. 9 1/2 hours car to car.
Bristoldave - AltLd O/S - 01/Oct/13 with Caroline

Hidden - Lead O/S - 19/Sep/13

Instructing
Jim-Roberts-1987 - 2nd O/S - 19/Sep/13 with Reece Venn, Peter Briggs

HP9 - 2nd - Sep/13 with Mark Hayes

EOC:P6, 11 (part), 13 GOS: P4, 7, 8, 10, 11 (part), 12
GOS - AltLd O/S - 23/May/13 with Eamonn O'Connor

07:00 start and back to the car at 17:00. Climbed with 2 novices, who did really well. Well done Swanny and Andy S. The climbing was great. As it was Sat morning it did get a little crowded. The walk down was long but nothing worth complaining about especially after climbing a great route.
emmit21 - Lead O/S - 18/May/13 with Andy S, Swanny, Tosh

First trad climb, very good route. very exposed. Very windy.
smartie - 2nd O/S - 18/May/13 with Tosh

Fantastic mountain day. Took 9 hours to climb but we were in 2 groups and let others climb through. 2 hours down. Route finding ok. I moved onto arête at pitch 5, big mistake, belay tiny, exposed and V. Windy, might as well just climbed gully left of arête. Pitch 11 tricky. I went far left groove onto a very polished flake and horrid tat. Only scary part of mountain. Well worth a climb. Mega.
wishicud climbHVS - Lead O/S - 18/May/13

Steady Ascent up a good path then scree to start of climb, the climbing was clean and beautifully exposed in places. The grading is top end of HS in places and could cause a novice leader a few problems. The decent is hairy however it is helped by the wires across the traverse. The huge scree gully is steep. The wind was very strong and relentless throughout the climb warm clothing is a must despite the hot Spanish Sun. An excellent day, fantastic route and entertaining company!
Napesneedle1 - Lead O/S - 18/May/13 with Kate

Hidden - AltLd - 23/Apr/13

herman0055 - 12/Apr/13 with student

7:50 car to car, 5:30 on route. With direct start, which I assumed was the norm, led in blocks. I led 1-3, 5, 8-11.
Theeni - AltLd O/S - 04/Apr/13 with Kitty Court

Lead all but 2 pitches. Excellent route but strange that it stops halfway up the mountain, we decided to head down as per the usual descent but think it'd take about the same time to head p and over the top. Great route but the Descent is hairy!
JamieSparkes - AltLd O/S - 03/Apr/13 with Claire Holland

crustypunkuk - Solo O/S - 03/Apr/13

14 Pitch MP - fully trad (HS). Excellent day out! Very windy.
Hotcake - AltLd - 02/Apr/13

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 02/Apr/13

Hidden - AltLd - Apr/13

mikesuth - Lead - Apr/13 with Jenny Colam

Hidden - 2nd - 21/Mar/13

Conscious of the epics that others have had we scrambed to avoid the first 3 pitches and strung together many of the other pitches (we had 2 x 60 metre half ropes). We also had Rich Mayfield snapping on our heels early on until his client slowed up when the climbing became a bit more technical. Left the car at 07:45, Back at car by 14:30. Next time we'll do the direct start and the time after that perhaps the original continuation at the top. The descent was quite long but clear to see and easy to follow in daylight and with no time pressure. It reminded us of a bigger version of some scrambly descents from Lakeland crags.
Steve Waters, Mynydd - AltLd - 15/Feb/13 with Mike Tempest

Hidden - AltLd - 15/Feb/13

colin.morrison - AltLd O/S - Feb/13 with Ross Bingham

antmorgan1991 - Lead - Feb/13 with lou reynolds, Johnny Heyes

Very long, very hollow (piggy sounding rock) great weather though very windy from pitch 9. Long walk in and a savage decent.. Sketchy exposed and relatively unprotected traverses and down climbs and a god aweful scree slope to the bottom. In summary, very tiring but very rewarding.
Adventure Bennie - 2nd O/S - 2013 with Billy mackintosh, Alan leckey

Did the direct start. Decided to do it on New Years Eve 2012. Had a 13 hour epic and very nearly didn't get down by the end of 2012. A lot can be said for route finding...climbing is straight forward. Descended in the dark, definitely went the wrong way at the end. Ended up abbing down to get to the summit scree shit filled path (when apparently there is a nice hikers path all the way off the mountain?!) Definitely worth doing, take headtorches, we wouldn't think we would need them, but without them we'd of been spending the first day of 2013 on the mountain. All in all, a good route...minus the hiccups.
Chris Perry - AltLd O/S - 31/Dec/12 with Hannah Beckett, Matt Rust

led pretty much all of it. badly off route on pitch 4 or something. slow ascent. very slow descent. 13hrs car to car. climbing is straightforward. confident pairs could move together for the majority. direct start.
rustaldo - Lead O/S - 31/Dec/12 with Hannah, Kit Perry

moved together for most pitches and lead some of the others
craig naylor - Lead O/S - 27/Dec/12 with alicia

RKirke - AltLd O/S - 21/Dec/12 with mikespooner

mikespooner - AltLd O/S - 20/Dec/12 with Roger Kirke

Direct start
Aaronsim - 2nd O/S - 04/Dec/12

Hidden - 2nd - Dec/12

Hidden - AltLd - Dec/12

akhutton88 - 2nd - 30/Nov/12 with SPANROCK

Tarquin - Lead - 30/Nov/12

Hidden - AltLd - 24/Nov/12

quickdrawmcraw - 23/Nov/12

Marti999 - Lead O/S - 02/Nov/12 with Debbie

debbie roberts - 2nd - 02/Nov/12 with Marti999

tiga271 - Nov/12

Wonderful day out - don't underestimate the difficulty of the descent, however,
Theantoff - AltLd O/S - 07/Oct/12 with Claire Heenan

Hidden - Lead O/S - 03/Oct/12

Forgot climbing shoes so used Tennies approach shoes, 11hrs car to car, worst scree descent I've had to endure to date.
irishguyinlondon - AltLd O/S - 03/Oct/12 with RooFin

Fantastic route! Cant understand why I waited so long to do it just because its so easy.
charlesmfrench - AltLd O/S - 24/May/12 with Anette

What a route! 10hours car to car. Found the marked descent, but even that is some undertaking!
michael83 - Lead O/S - 13/May/12 with Mel, Laura

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 27/Apr/12

mdg skidmore - AltLd O/S - 26/Apr/12 with joe penfold, clive dean

stunning route
SeánM - AltLd O/S - 21/Apr/12

First trad climb for Iain and he was a star, Scrambled and soloed short easy pitch - grade 3 back to the ledge at P3 where we had left some water and gear,followed the RF guides for pitches with well equipped stations on the main arete, the top of P12 is a great place to be, what its all for. Forget the time a long day even if you keep going.
Warren Earle - Lead O/S - 07/Apr/12 with Iain Powell

Andyh83 - AltLd O/S - 06/Apr/12

Stickle Tarn - AltLd O/S - Apr/12

Fantastic climbing, great day out. Descent IS as varied as described although for the competent it is safe. Slightly disappointed that this doesnt top out at the top of the peak but it was still great fun. Wothwhile
partz - AltLd O/S - 31/Mar/12 with Alex Wade

3h10 car-car. 1h30 on climb (direct start)
Jonathan Emett - Solo rpt - 31/Mar/12

Led direct, p1+2 together, Henry led lats pitch, all the alternates rest, I think...
Matthew Edwards - AltLd O/S - 31/Mar/12 with Henry Brown

Alex Wade - AltLd O/S - 31/Mar/12

Henry Brown - AltLd - 31/Mar/12 with Matthew Edwards

Very long day. 10 hours climbing. Rockfax guide a bit wrong in places. Pitches get better higher you go. Long long walk back to car.
daveyji - AltLd - 27/Mar/12 with Linda Williamson

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 24/Mar/12

repeat ascent and v. straight forward. did route car to car in 6 hours, a pleasant change from double that last time.
mark4344 - AltLd rpt - 24/Mar/12 with Dale Knox

cheeky - AltLd O/S - 24/Mar/12 with Andreas

beckybray1 - 2nd O/S - 18/Mar/12

rgd1977 - Lead - 18/Mar/12

JohnHutch - Lead - 12/Mar/12 with Tim J, MS

broken ribs
99bolivar - 2nd O/S - 12/Mar/12 with Tim Josephy, John Hutchinson

Alt lead starting from pitch 2,4,6,8,10,12
Mick Riley - AltLd O/S - 12/Mar/12 with Ken prandy

Hidden - AltLd O/S - Mar/12

5h45 from parking, incl direct start and edward´s finish. 2h for main route. very good route, hateful descent!
Jonathan Emett - Solo O/S - 06/Feb/12 with tim

tim newton - Solo O/S - 06/Feb/12 with jonathan emett

A fantastic day out. Varied climbing with some wild exposure, loads of loose rock, super rough & sharp limestone, magnificent views. As we climbed pretty quick and finished early afternoon we enjoyed a daytime descent which although exposed, was pretty straightforward, just follow the big red dots. If misty (as seems to be the case quite often), or dark, this descent could be quite an epic. Personally i'd rather kip up there and wait for daylight.
A Mountain Journey - Lead - Feb/12

Henry Brown - 2012

dan ely - Solo rpt - 25/Dec/11

Ash_Johnson - Lead O/S - Nov/11

13 pitches, 450 meters.
Ash_Johnson - Lead O/S - Nov/11

antonymcphillips - AltLd - Nov/11

Tenko - AltLd - 15/Oct/11 with Guy Williams

AndyFunnell - AltLd - 11/Oct/11 with Mark Beecher

7.26 start, finish at 15:15 back at the car. Andrew ran first 3 piches together then led 4th. Alternate after that. Climbed in 8 pitches - 5A, 3M
Marq - AltLd O/S - 11/Oct/11 with Andrew Funnell

Tarquin - 22/Sep/11 with Sarah, Liz

Hidden - 2nd - 22/Sep/11

dkd - 28/Apr/11 with Karl

Brilliant mountain climb!
Sianny - 2nd O/S - 26/Apr/11 with Al

Via direct start
stouffer - AltLd - 13/Apr/11

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 12/Apr/11

no sleep for 48 hours before hand. Not a good idea...
The Green Giant - AltLd O/S - 12/Apr/11 with kel

Awesome and epic! Made a drunken decision to do this. No regrets! HS is more correct than 4+ as there are practically no bolts on any of the pitches. Great holds in a great position.
Liam Ingram - AltLd O/S - 06/Apr/11 with Tom HS

jon clayton - AltLd - Apr/11 with luke dudill

jmasson91 - 2nd O/S - 26/Mar/11

knicos - AltLd O/S - 21/Mar/11 with James Chesmer

design crisis - Lead dog - 19/Mar/11 with Tom W

kelly_426 - AltLd - Mar/11 with Alex Orr

Purple Roni - AltLd O/S - 22/Feb/11

RKernan - AltLd O/S - 30/Jan/11 with Colleen Mann

moved together and did the direct start. Did in 1h 50m (stoped at the 1st decent path)
dan ely - AltLd rpt - 14/Jan/11 with paul (orange house)

amazing climbing, but worst decent ever! why? it is hard to find the right point to stop the route, involves some scary abseils to get to the red dotted route if you missed the right turn, it's easy to mistake the first scree slope as the decent (really dangerous as it ends in a massive drop!!) and one usually does that in the dark. The actual decent traverse a long way and has a few hairy downclimbs.
Robin Head - Lead O/S - 05/Jan/11 with Jo Davison, Jen, Joe Premier

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 05/Jan/11

Jo Davison - AltLd O/S - 05/Jan/11 with Joe Premier

A long but worthwhile day!!!! An easy walk in, generally easy climbing BUT and this is a big BUT!!!!! a horific and confusing descent in the dark due to the fact it is easy to climb to far on the top pitches and end up on the edwards finish Soloing !!WHERE Is ALL THIS CABLED PROTECTION THE GUIDE MENTIONS? We only found 1 section protected!!! Despite this it is a really enjoyable day out and worth doing :) Also met some great people from the southhampton climbing club who were very helpful on the descent and in return i returned there Stuck? gear.
jon clayton - Lead - 05/Jan/11 with jason williams

JenDurden - 2nd β - 05/Jan/11 with Robin

JonBrown - AltLd O/S - 01/Jan/11 with Sarp

31770 - 2011

jcj - 2011 with jon paul clayton

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 04/Dec/10

Hidden - Lead - Dec/10

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 29/Nov/10

Splendid day out. Did direct start &, accidentally, harder variant on p12 (5+? with 2 bolts & 2 threads in situ).Descent into gully tricky in dark. Start early!
timcedwards - 2nd - 15/Nov/10 with Andrew Edwards

amazing line, bad top out and loose rock
dan ely - AltLd O/S - 06/Nov/10 with max and dread girl

Hidden - AltLd O/S - Nov/10

P4 J. P5,6,7 M. P8,9 J. P10 M. P11 J. P12,13 M. Easy to join together pitches with a 60m rope. Route finding ok, take a photocopy of the guidebook to be sure.
JimBee - AltLd O/S - Nov/10 with Matt Ellis

climbhannahclimb - 2nd O/S - Nov/10 with Max Fitzgerald, Dan...

A fantastic day out. I led all 13/14? pitches with Michael Whitley seconding me. We left the car in the dark and finished in the dark, even though we were moving well. Had no problems with route finding and agree with guide book (HS) as grade. A top notch mountain route!
carlh - Lead O/S - 29/Oct/10

heathergotrumbled - AltLd O/S - 24/Jun/10 with JH

Long day out even with no problems (c.12 hours) Alternate leads
Jake Howard - Lead O/S - 24/Jun/10 with Heather Rumble

Absolutely amazing! Best ascent ive ever done to date. Went as two pairs, alternate leading. 11 hours car to car.
marvin1987 - AltLd O/S - May/10 with Thomas Grainger

riff156 - AltLd O/S - May/10 with Bob Hotchkis

Brilliant day out.
Shaw Brown - AltLd - 12/Apr/10 with Earl Gray Larty

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 03/Apr/10

Hidden - Lead O/S - 31/Mar/10

what a day, dugs broke leg on way down :(
saz_b - Lead O/S - 30/Mar/10 with steve

Superb. Quality day out, with some wild exposure.
sweenyt - AltLd O/S - 25/Mar/10 with UBMC

Three climbers. Simultaneous climbing for the seconds.
martinp - AltLd - 17/Mar/10 with Dave S and Alan C

Andrewbirkett - AltLd O/S - 15/Mar/10 with Stephane

Via Direct Start. Lovely fine climbing in an amazing setting.
Richard Gilbert - AltLd O/S - 04/Mar/10 with Paul Padman

ldadams - AltLd - Mar/10 with Mark Chaplin

Hidden - Lead O/S - 20/Feb/10

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 05/Dec/09

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 05/Dec/09

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 15/Nov/09

howhard - AltLd O/S - 15/Nov/09 with Martin Ford

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 14/Nov/09

Liam FLeming - Lead - 03/Nov/09 with karen dalzell

Rich Clague - AltLd - Nov/09

GScot38 - Lead O/S - Nov/09

Super expedition - we did the direct start - three parties of more experienced dudes went past (politely) so we were a little slow - started at 7.30am finished at 4.00pm - take off an hour for delays - hmmmm. Went wrong on pitch 8/9 and went left onto the side of the arete - this wasn't 4+ The descent shouldn't be attempted in the dark. My feet ached like hell by the time we got back to the car. Two grande ice cold San Miguels made up for all that - Brilliant - well done Ash!
Jeremy Wilton - AltLd O/S - 09/Oct/09 with Ashley Stevens

Great must do climb
innesmac - Oct/09

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 05/May/09

Led the final 2 pitches. Ascent in 4 hrs. Car to bar in less than 7 hrs.
steveadkinson - Lead O/S - 05/May/09 with Tim & Ryan

Mark Fairhurst - AltLd - 01/May/09

jacoob81 - 2nd - May/09

Awesome day out
dickie01 - Lead O/S - 25/Apr/09 with Nick Briggs

Hidden - Lead rpt - 14/Apr/09

Hidden - 2nd - 14/Apr/09

Hidden - Lead - 26/Mar/09

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 25/Mar/09

Had a bit of an epic-too slow on route got benighted just as we were finishing last pitch.Epic descent in the dark- very scary!
sims - AltLd O/S - 14/Mar/09 with Jonno

Scrambled to avoid first 3 pitches, lead pitches 4-8 inclusive, dave lead 9-13. Descended in dark; powerful headtorch came in /very/ useful
gav - AltLd O/S - 09/Mar/09 with Dave, Tim

Lead every pitch, nakered!
Lunar25 - Lead O/S - Mar/09 with Phil Marsh

Hidden - Lead O/S - 18/Feb/09

lead all
greenclimb - Lead O/S - 18/Feb/09 with Sarah

Hidden - Lead - 08/Feb/09

barrington1978 - Feb/09

Mark Adams - Lead - 2009

Hidden - 08/Dec/08

John HW - AltLd - 28/Nov/08 with Cath

Fantastic route. Scrambled the first couple of pitches. Only took 3.5hours to climb but with an hour walk in and a couple of hours descent, it makes a full day out. Fixed cables pretty much on all the tricky bits of the descent so well protected compared to the walk off on some routes in the UK. Not as daunting as the guide book makes it sound.
ebastock - 2nd - 11/Nov/08 with John Beddard

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 09/Nov/08

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 09/Nov/08

Very nice climb. It's not a hard climb, but the sight is good.
Bruveris - Lead - Nov/08

gordon henderson - AltLd O/S - 21/Oct/08 with Chris

in the thunder
crisaitken - AltLd - 21/Oct/08 with gordonhend

Descent from end p13, go right, starts with a via ferrata cable, look for large red splodge, and has red marks and occaisional big red cirular splodges to follow. No abseils, mostly a series of via ferrata cables descending quite moderately. I´d say roping up and moving together is advisable on this descent. This descent path/via ferrata ends near the top of a big scree slope to descend to finish.
thomasholyoak - Lead O/S - Sep/08

jamie ward - Aug/08

Hidden - Lead O/S - Jun/08

prycey - AltLd - May/08

Ken Taylor - AltLd - 23/Apr/08 with Andy Chadwick

Excellent route
Conan - AltLd - 23/Apr/08 with Chris Michalak

Didn't have full rack, so decided best to only climb the first 3 pitches and come back another time with a full rack for a full ascent.
JonT - AltLd dnf - 05/Apr/08 with Helen Edwards

ChrisBrooke - AltLd O/S - 04/Apr/08 with Shona D'Arcy

Hidden - AltLd - Apr/08

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 23/Mar/08

Glyn - Lead O/S - 17/Mar/08 with Jonny

Soloed first 7 pitches
Peter Metcalfe - AltLd - 15/Mar/08 with Mike Downing

mark4344 - AltLd O/S - 14/Mar/08 with dave tourell

Andrew Sloan - AltLd O/S - 14/Mar/08 with Steve Grove

Hidden - Mar/08

red-poppy - 2nd O/S - Feb/08

net - AltLd - 21/Jan/08 with Pete M

A grand day out!
Peter Metcalfe - AltLd - 21/Jan/08 with Annette

Brilliant day out. Richard from the orange house acted as a guide and was well worth the money. The rock is beautiful - lots of holds and amazingly grippy. Heard a few stories of polished bits and tricky sections - but none that we discovered. There are potentially lots of different lines up and it would be easy to follow the wrong one and end up on a hiher graded section. Overall a brilliant day out and my longest multipitch route yet! Led first pitch and alternated each one after that, although we may have split one of the pitches in two. There are so many that they become a bit of a blur!
NCorbett - AltLd O/S - 05/Jan/08

auld al - AltLd O/S - Jan/08

Phil PBC - 2008

Hidden - 25/Dec/07

One student dropped out which speeded up things. Easy climbing at V Diff but a bit exposed in places. Walk off more dodgy than the climb. Bus to bus in 8 hours with climbing time of 5 1/2 hours. Direct start will put on half an hour tops. Don't be put off by it's size, good day out.
Zoomer - AltLd - 21/Nov/07 with Sally Brown, A Student

crisaitken - AltLd - Nov/07 with gordonhend

gordon henderson - AltLd - Nov/07 with Chris

lead entire route
jcurley - Lead O/S - 30/Oct/07 with Horace

The Bad Cough - AltLd O/S - 08/Oct/07 with John Nesbitt

Hidden - AltLd O/S - Oct/07

Amazing Route, Amazing day, combined with the Edwards Finish a 16 hour Epic
DanT - AltLd O/S - 15/Sep/07 with Ian Silvester

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 15/Sep/07

Did Edwards Finish . Great day out
TonyP - AltLd - 23/Aug/07 with Simon

Amazing route! Did direct start, 5hrs enjoyable climbing to top. Didnt bother with Edwards finish. 1.5 hrs to base of mountain. :)
JonHarvey - AltLd O/S - 18/Apr/07 with Jay Jackson

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 18/Apr/07

Made an early start and got to the base of the route in good time. Decided to take the easy shortcut mentioned in the Rockfax guide for the first 3 pitches. The description was very poor (a photo would be useful) and we got about 2/3 of the way up the mountain via an overgrown gully before deciding to retreat. Back at Orange House by 1pm.
HamishD - Lead dnf - Apr/07 with Ross Overhead

tskelhon - AltLd O/S - Apr/07 with John Warner

roverhead - 2nd dnf - Apr/07 with Hamish Dunn

A brilliant adventure, as expected the start is a bit pants, soloed first 2 pitches in skate shoes.. but after that it becomes brilliant. Ledges all the way up make for comfortable belays, while the faces inbetween still look daunting. The climbing is easy but wich a rucksack and a long day so far its no walk in the park. Route finding was relatively ok apart from once where i managed to nearly climb off the edge of the arete. DESCENT IS PROBABALLY MOST DANGEROUS PART advise keeping the rope out until you hit the scree for anyone nervous!
Jon_Warner - AltLd O/S - 31/Mar/07 with Tom

Hidden - Lead - Mar/07

direct start
Tom Phillips - AltLd O/S - 22/Jan/07 with bruce

Hidden - AltLd O/S - Jan/07

Hidden - AltLd - 2007

Instructing Tarquin's Exped 2 x students
John HW - Lead O/S - Dec/06 with 2 x Students

Sylvi - 2nd - 14/Nov/06 with Andy L

JWB - AltLd O/S - Oct/06 with Lucy Adams & Mark Anstey

Simon Allcock - Oct/06

mr bounce - Lead O/S - Sep/06 with Shona

Amazing day out, great climbing in spectacular situations but very, very hot. Descent is the worst part of it
andy mcc - AltLd - Sep/06 with Jason King

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 20/Apr/06

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 04/Apr/06

Hidden - Lead O/S - Apr/06

A perfect day out.
Sankey - AltLd O/S - 23/Mar/06 with Luke

thebigfriendlymoose - AltLd O/S - Mar/06 with Stephen

dfbpdave - 2nd - 2006

Christmas day extravaganza. Mega first outdoor climbing experince, and legendary post descent longest piss of my life.
Lil'Lou - 2nd dog - 25/Dec/05 with Stuart Greenall, Clare Forster

steve mee - AltLd - 09/Dec/05 with Mark Glaister

Moving together.
will_benfold - AltLd O/S - Dec/05 with Ben D

Hidden - AltLd - 2005

about 5h from foot to summit
HansStuttgart - Dec/04

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 17/Nov/04

Hidden - AltLd O/S - Nov/04

Hidden - AltLd - 12/Oct/04

Phil West - AltLd O/S - 17/Sep/04 with Shaun Walby

shaun walby - 2nd O/S - 17/Mar/04 with Mark Edwards

Hidden - 28/Feb/04

Hidden - AltLd O/S - Apr/03

Hidden - AltLd - 28/Mar/03

Hidden - 2nd - 19/Mar/03

Due to rockfall on second pitch had to be rescued off. Had a black arm for a month but thankfully no broken bones!
Katex - AltLd dnf - 12/Mar/03 with Simon Edwards

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 2003

Hidden - Lead O/S - 2003

dan gibson - Solo O/S - Nov/02

Hidden - 2nd - 27/Aug/02

John Brayshaw - AltLd O/S - 18/Mar/02 with Chris

Hidden - Oct/01

Hidden - AltLd - 2001

Tarquin - 2001

Simon Caldwell - AltLd O/S - 29/Mar/00 with Ian A

Nigel R Lewis - AltLd - 09/Mar/00 with Pete Bennett

Howard J - AltLd rpt - 28/Feb/00 with John Hopkins

Hidden - Solo - 25/Feb/00

Hidden - Lead - 2000

Hidden - 07/Apr/99

Howard J - AltLd O/S - 22/Feb/99 with Paul Barker

Hidden - 2nd - 1998

stugreen75 - AltLd O/S - 1998 with The Youth

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 28/Mar/97

PeteCheung - Apr/96 with Ian and Kevin

We decided to start early and move quickly - un roped for the first six pitches or so, and roped for the rest. Good practice for alpine climbing and a fine route in its own right
EddieA - AltLd O/S - Nov/95 with Simon W

steve prior - Lead - Nov/95 with Roz C

Mick r - AltLd O/S - Mar/95 with Jim Marshall

Hidden - AltLd - 06/Dec/94

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 03/Dec/93

sdht - Lead - Apr/92

andyfeds - AltLd - 1990

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Voting
Total votes cast 138
hard 5a0 of 70
5a0 of 70
easy 5a8 of 70
hard 4c17 of 70
4c33 of 70
easy 4c8 of 70
hard 4a4 of 70
4a0 of 70
easy 4a0 of 70
3 Stars61 of 68
2 Stars6 of 68
1 Star1 of 68
0 Stars0 of 68
Bag of .....0 of 68
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Style of ascent

Soloed
Lead
Followed
Alt Leads
Unknown
Climbed
Clean O/S
Clean β
Clean rpt
dogged
dnf