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Diedros Mágicos*** 6a (e1)

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[At the top of Diedros Magicos looking across to Espolon Central, 2 kb]155m, 5 pitches. A great mountain route. Start below the long groove which goes the full length of the face. 1) 5, 25m. Climb the corner to a cave which has a bolt belay. 2) 5, 25m. Continue up the corner to another bolt belay. 3) 5+, 30m. Follow the corner to a peg. Move right across the wall (a devious move) to a good ledge and bolt belay. 4) 4, 25m. Move up then follow grooves and cracks leftwards to belay back in the main groove. 5) 6a, 50m. The crux. Climb up to another ledge and a possible belay. Move up to the roof above then a hard move right leads into a corner. Up this, then left to another corner which leads to the top. Abseil off from here or the pillar above leads to the top in four more pitches (grade 4). © ROCKFAX
FA. H.García Gallego 1980

Ticklists: Costa Blanca "Must Do" routes.

Photo: At the top of Diedros Magicos looking across to Espolon Central © Shaw Brown
View all 3 photos or Submit a new photo of this climb.

PUBLIC LOGBOOKS
This climb is in 35 logbooks, and on 4 wishlists.

Needed a full trad rack as only belays bolted. Also did in 5 pitches as had to re-use cams.took 5 hours including 3 abseils to return.Top pitch ok, just delicate, but good pro.
mark4344 - AltLd O/S - 30/Mar/14 with dereck

Abbed off end of P4 due to weather
JHC - AltLd - 28/Mar/14 with Sam Watson

Shivering in the wind by end of P4, came back down.
Sam Watson - AltLd dnf - 28/Mar/14 with James Cowley

mrteale - Lead O/S - 07/Mar/14

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 27/Dec/13

Superb adventure route, good rock, great positions, crux was hard for 6a, well bolted though, and safe.
HappyTrundler - AltLd - 23/Nov/13 with Irish Pete

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 09/Feb/13

seconded p1. I was so unpsyched I lowered off and walked home :(
Jonathan Emett - 2nd O/S - 20/Apr/12 with dr steve, alain

alan1234 - AltLd O/S - 20/Apr/12

Steve Hillier - AltLd O/S - 20/Apr/12 with alan cooney

seconded pitches 1-3 and lead pitch 4, last pitch and crux was lead by Pete, i didnt attempt it.
Adam Romaine - AltLd dnf - 11/Apr/11 with Pete Mayhew

Hidden - Lead - 31/Mar/11

led crux pitch
knicos - AltLd - 26/Mar/11 with Luke Dyer

luke321 - AltLd - 26/Mar/11 with Nick Pope

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 19/Jan/11

charlesmfrench - AltLd O/S - 2010 with Keith Milne, Anette

Jim lead the odd pitches.
gjd - AltLd O/S - 29/Oct/09 with Jim at Craigdhu

Hidden - Lead β - 18/May/08

derico - Lead O/S - 17/Mar/08 with George W

dan gibson - Lead O/S - 10/Dec/07 with sam read

Hidden - AltLd O/S - Dec/07

dave o - AltLd O/S - Dec/06 with James R

Done in 3 50m pitches (5,5+,6a). Led first and third. Fog rolled in and then the ropes got stuck......
Chris the Tall - AltLd - 21/Jan/06 with Adrian Berry

Fantastic route!
Bella - AltLd O/S - 25/Dec/05 with Chris

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 13/Dec/05

Hidden - AltLd O/S - Sep/05

Shaw Brown - Lead O/S - 28/Apr/05 with peter metcalfe

Four solid 5+ pitches then a strenous roof and corner followed by a completely "out-there" move onto a nose. Brilliant route.
Peter Metcalfe - 2nd - 28/Apr/05 with Shaw Brown

Ramon Marin - AltLd O/S - 25/Apr/05 with Gavin Lim

Hidden - Lead O/S - 13/Jan/05

Simonj - 2005

Dave Musgrove - AltLd - Feb/01 with Ann Goudi

Hidden - AltLd - Dec/00

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 12/Apr/00

ChrisJD - Lead - Dec/91

Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
Hidden, Steve Waters, Mynydd, RKernan, Hidden

Voting
Total votes cast 25
hard 6a+0 of 12
6a+0 of 12
easy 6a+0 of 12
hard 6a8 of 12
6a4 of 12
easy 6a0 of 12
hard 5+0 of 12
5+0 of 12
easy 5+0 of 12
3 Stars13 of 13
2 Stars0 of 13
1 Star0 of 13
0 Stars0 of 13
Bag of .....0 of 13
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Style of ascent

Lead8 of 35 (22.9%)
Followed3 of 35 (8.6%)
Alt Leads23 of 35 (65.7%)
Unknown1 of 35 (2.9%)

'Climbed'11 of 35 (31.4%)
clean O/S21 of 35 (60.0%)
clean β1 of 35 (2.9%)
dnf2 of 35 (5.7%)