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Diedros Mágicos*** 6a (e1)

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[At the top of Diedros Magicos looking across to Espolon Central, 2 kb]155m, 5 pitches. A great mountain route. Start below the long groove which goes the full length of the face. 1) 5, 25m. Climb the corner to a cave which has a bolt belay. 2) 5, 25m. Continue up the corner to another bolt belay. 3) 5+, 30m. Follow the corner to a peg. Move right across the wall (a devious move) to a good ledge and bolt belay. 4) 4, 25m. Move up then follow grooves and cracks leftwards to belay back in the main groove. 5) 6a, 50m. The crux. Climb up to another ledge and a possible belay. Move up to the roof above then a hard move right leads into a corner. Up this, then left to another corner which leads to the top. Abseil off from here or the pillar above leads to the top in four more pitches (grade 4). © ROCKFAX
FA. H.García Gallego 1980

Photo: At the top of Diedros Magicos looking across to Espolon Central © Shaw Brown
View all 3 photos or Submit a new photo of this climb.

PUBLIC LOGBOOKS
This climb is in 29 logbooks, and on 3 wishlists.

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 09/Feb/13

seconded p1. I was so unpsyched I lowered off and walked home :(
Jonathan Emett - 2nd O/S - 20/Apr/12 with dr steve, alain

alan1234 - AltLd O/S - 20/Apr/12

Steve Hillier - AltLd O/S - 20/Apr/12 with alan cooney

seconded pitches 1-3 and lead pitch 4, last pitch and crux was lead by Pete, i didnt attempt it.
Adam Romaine - AltLd dnf - 11/Apr/11 with Pete Mayhew

Hidden - Lead - 31/Mar/11

led crux pitch
knicos - AltLd - 26/Mar/11 with Luke Dyer

luke321 - AltLd - 26/Mar/11 with Nick Pope

i lead p 1,2,3. Top pitch split in 2.
dan ely - AltLd O/S - 19/Jan/11 with scottish scott

charlesmfrench - AltLd O/S - 2010 with Keith Milne, Anette

Jim lead the odd pitches.
gjd - AltLd O/S - 29/Oct/09 with Jim Hall

Hidden - Lead β - 18/May/08

derico - Lead O/S - 17/Mar/08 with George W

dan gibson - Lead O/S - 10/Dec/07 with sam read

Hidden - AltLd O/S - Dec/07

dave o - AltLd O/S - Dec/06 with James R

Done in 3 50m pitches (5,5+,6a). Led first and third. Fog rolled in and then the ropes got stuck......
Chris the Tall - AltLd - 21/Jan/06 with Adrian Berry

Fantastic route!
Bella - AltLd O/S - 25/Dec/05 with Chris

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 13/Dec/05

Hidden - AltLd O/S - Sep/05

Shaw Brown - Lead O/S - 28/Apr/05 with peter metcalfe

Four solid 5+ pitches then a strenous roof and corner followed by a completely "out-there" move onto a nose. Brilliant route.
Peter Metcalfe - 2nd - 28/Apr/05 with Shaw Brown

Ramon Marin - AltLd O/S - 25/Apr/05 with Gavin Lim

Hidden - Lead O/S - 13/Jan/05

Simonj - 2005

Dave Musgrove - AltLd - Feb/01 with Ann Goudi

Hidden - AltLd - Dec/00

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 12/Apr/00

ChrisJD - Lead - Dec/91

Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
Steve Waters, Mynydd, RKernan, Hidden

Voting
Total votes cast 23
hard 6a+0 of 11
6a+0 of 11
easy 6a+0 of 11
hard 6a8 of 11
6a3 of 11
easy 6a0 of 11
hard 5+0 of 11
5+0 of 11
easy 5+0 of 11
3 Stars12 of 12
2 Stars0 of 12
1 Star0 of 12
0 Stars0 of 12
Bag of .....0 of 12
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Style of ascent

Lead7 of 29 (24.1%)
Followed3 of 29 (10.3%)
Alt Leads18 of 29 (62.1%)
Unknown1 of 29 (3.4%)

'Climbed'9 of 29 (31.0%)
clean O/S18 of 29 (62.1%)
clean β1 of 29 (3.4%)
dnf1 of 29 (3.4%)