A long and complex traverse over the numerous rocky spires between the Col du Diable and the East summit of the Tacul. Route 54 in Rebuffat's 100 Finest Routes (Mont Blanc Massif).

Ticklists: Rebuffat's 100 Finest Routes in the Mont Blanc Massif, Batoux's 100 finest routes in the Mont Blanc massif.

ClimberDateStyleNotes & Partners
rob87n 09/Sep -
MSchobitz 07/Sep Lead dnf

Bivied below the choss gully under a rock melted into the glacier, probably started too late (around 6) due to the late sunrise, and subsequently only got to the start of the climbing at around 9:30. Not being acclimatised and not having the freedom of missing the last lift we bailed. Took about 12 abseils and 3hours back down the choss gully. Will be back to at least clean the damn tat I've left. Apologies to the mountain.

alexm198 28/Jun AltLd O/S

So long. About 9 hours on the ridge itself, had to sack off the Isolée for fear of missing the last bin back to Chamonix - went up the gully on the RHS instead. Worth noting that Batoux's route description is all over the place on this one - the '4c' corner on the Mediane is in fact the 5c crux, and at the top of the Mediane, do not go to the left of the letterbox, as suggested, but instead go through the left-most of the two letterboxes that comprise the summit.

Hidden 28/Jun AltLd
Hidden 27/Jun AltLd
Simon4 ??/2015 -

Well, we didn't die on this. So clearly the devil DOES look after his own, even if he frequently gives them a hell of a fright.

Wayne Horsfall
Ben Briggs 25/Sep/13 -
jcw ??/2013 -
Cham32 ??/2011 -

corne and mediane iced up but isolee a real pleasure!

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Votes cast 2
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