Rockfax Description
Climb the steep rib then break right through the roofs. © Rockfax
UKC Logbook Description
Vacuno moruno remained unclimbed for a number of years due to a huge lose flake. This has now been removed and rebooted with completely new character and a new, hard section of climbing where the route previously eased.
Climb the awkward lower wall by escaping out right around the arête. Re-join the arête and climb perfect moves using the obvious tumour hold and cunning. Easy climbing leads to the hardest section of the route, a sloppy traverse and gripping mantle.
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Grade: 8b ***
(Arico - Lower Gorge)