Welcome to Bedlam E5 6a
(1 rest point) #
1) 75ft 5c. Climb the initial groove of Last Leviathan to reach the ledge on the right and belay below the corner of Over my head.
2) 75ft 6A. The steep greasy crack in the wall above the belay between LL and OMH provides an arm pumping and nerve shredding pitch on suspect rock.
Climb the short steep corner below the main crack to reach a wobbly handhold, with care pull up and stand on the wobbly hold and follow the crack it into the niche above, move up steeply to gain a ledge on the left, now follow a series of ledges to reach a grassy stance and double peg and cam belay.
3) 40ft. Climb easily up grooves and grassy ledges to reach stake belays at the top.

Stu Bradbury, Mark Macmanus. 23/Apr/2011

Ticklists: Atlantic Coast New Routes.

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