Dancing in the Danger Zone*** E6 6b
(Given E5/6) (1 point of aid) # 80ft A superb route taking a strong natural line through some impressive terrain on good rock, giving powerful and technical climbing through the grooves and overhangs above the cave. 1. 6b 50ft. Start at the tidal boulders at the cave entrance, climb the slab on the left (facing in) by its right side and make a diagonal traverse rightwards over the cave, difficult moves allow entrance to a restricted scoop then strenuous and technical moves right and up gains the hanging V- groove/scoop below the overhang (aid point) pull over this to reach a diagonal right to left crack under the roof, undrcut this leftwards until a pull up and round gains the large scoop and belay. 2. 5c 30ft. Move right into the steep corner and climb it to the top. (onsight with 1 point of aid) "This has to be one of the best onsight routes I have ever climbed and I have every intention of freeing the aid point at the earliest opportunity it will be E6 without the aid point"
Stu Bradbury, Maciek Affeldt 20/Aug/2005

Ticklists: Atlantic Coast New Routes.

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