Whistlin' Past the Graveyard** E6 6a
30m. Hanging arete left of Psycho bagman. This gives a very bold and serious lead on very limited and marginal RP placements with big runouts. Start as for psycho bagman and make its tricky moves left to gain the shallow groove, move up the groove for 15ft to place a crucial camalot 2 in a hole on the right wall,then climb back down and traverse left with your feet just above the void to reach the hanging arete, follow the arete until you can rockover and gain a precarious rest on a narrow ledge just right of the arete, step back left and continue up the arete to reach a sloping grassy ledge with relief! Move right and climb a short wide crack in a block to reach another ledge with an overhanging niche, move right again and climb the short steep wall to reach the top.
Stu Bradbury & Nick Dill 20/Sep/2012
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