250m, 7 pitches.

Rockfax Description
The most popular long route on the island is the spire-like ridge of Albahida. Climbing it is a full day's outing for most teams, including the long descent. The line of the route is a bit vague since it wanders around the rib, however most of the stances have fixed gear, if in doubt, just follow the easiest line. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
Gear - There is some old fixed gear but take a small rack consisting of medium wires and a few larger Friends. Also take lots of slings for the numerous threads high on the route.
Start at the base of the left-hand spur of the ridge by some red marks on the rock.
Timings - Walk-in 30 mins; main ridge climbing 2 hours fast, 5 hours slow; upper ridge 30 mins unless windy; descent 1 hour. Total of 4 hours fast, or 8 hours slow.
1) 3, 30m. Climb the ridge by the easiest line, first right then left to a stance on a ledge. Quan es sa Jose goes direct above this stance.
2) 4, 25m. Move right then upwards with a hard move or two. Easier climbing leads back left around a rib to a recess.
3) 4, 25m. Climb direct over a small overlap to a scoop-ledge. Move out right onto the rib which leads to a stance at the base of a section of orange rock.
4) 3+, 35m. Climb up right past some loose blocks and then up a long flake/corner, past an extraordinary bolt, to belay on a ledge.
5) 4+, 40m. Climb direct past some trees to a steepening. Make a few hard pulls, past some pegs, and onto the rib (possible stance). This leads more easily to a scoop stance on some natural threads.
6) 3, 50m. Follow the easy-angled rib above, past numerous natural threads, heading for an orange bulge and a large stance.
7) 3+, 45m. Move right to a corner, then climb up over a bulge onto an easy slab which leads to the top.
Gubia Variante - A right-hand start to the ridge can be made in three long pitches at about grade 5. No further details are known but the line looks fairly straightforward.
Descent 1 - For the full summit experience, don't leave any gear at the base of the route. From the top of the climbing, scramble up the ridge to the summit - easy in trainers but harder if there is a wind blowing when you may need to rope up. Continue over the top and drop down the other side to reach a dirt road. This zig-zags down, past a farm, to the main road - see map on page 66. Turn right and head back downhill to the car (1 hour).
Descent 2 - Continue along the ridge and over the summit as for Descent 1 but, before you reach the zig-zag track, walk leftwards under the Cara Oeste. Keep well away from the face and, instead, drop steeply down the scree and scrub-covered slope between the main face and another thin ridge opposite it. This is hard going and there is no real path, but relatively quick (30 mins from the summit).
Descent 3 - Fast but tricky since you need to abseil down a line you haven't come up, which may have other climbers on it! Abseil down the last pitch. From here abseil down the right-hand (looking in) side of the ridge, down the line of La Ley del Deseo. Don't commit yourself to the first two abseils until you know where you are going. After that it is straightforward.

Ticklists: ROCKFAX Mallorca: Top 50.

chapmand 16/Nov Lead O/S
with Liz Miller
Ollieaxon 25/Sep AltLd O/S
Laura-lou 22/Sep 2nd dnf

Paul led pitches one and two. Going off the 2007 guide which directs right off the belay we got a bit lost and ended up hot, irritated and ab'd off once up the second....which is pretty much straight up and beautifully bolted so will definitely be back to finish at some point. First pitch gear is a bit naff but the climbing is all there.

Joshthomas 24/Jun AltLd O/S

awesome route plenty of protection

Mike Webster 05/Jun AltLd dnf

Bailed after half of pitch 2. For better climbers than us!

Zoe Cockburn ?/May AltLd
Hidden 15/Apr Lead
Vicky L 15/Apr 2nd O/S

great day out

with Jo Morrison
The Ivanator 10/Apr AltLd O/S
with Toby
Hidden 07/Apr 2nd
Nico34 07/Apr AltLd
bentaylor1986 01/Apr 2nd O/S

May have ended up doing one of the sport pitches as it was fully bolted, book at the top was a nice surprise. Walk down the other side harder to find than anticipated

with Dave Taylor
Tom Downes 16/Feb AltLd O/S
Matt Smith 16/Feb AltLd O/S

Super route up an amazing feature! Three teams of us climbed on three adjacent routes concluding in a brilliant race to the summit! Lead pitches 1, 3, 5 and 7 with the scramble to the summit afterwards, 7.5 hrs car to car. I think that pitch 2 is the hardest, but went very off route on pitch 7 following pitons which felt very difficult, would give the route HS 4b if followed correctly.

AdamCB 26/Sep/14 Lead

With Carl Teece. Great route, P2 felt the hardest, mainly used slings for gear, a few medium wires and a couple of cams. Did it in a couple more pitches than the Rockfax guide, 3 3/4 hrs climbing, 20 mins quick scramble to summit. 6hrs car to car. Scramble to the top great fun, and easy stroll back down the track.

HIGHTOWER 22/Sep/14 AltLd O/S
with Matt B, B
MBarraclough 22/Sep/14 AltLd O/S
julianconstable 16/Jun/14 Lead O/S

Cool first thing. Needed a wind-proof. Climbing straight-forward. Ignored in-situ bolts etc and did it Trad for some practice. Wonderful views to the South and East of the island. Held up a bit by a load of firefigthers doing rescue practice. I led but under tuition from Justin at Rock and Ride. Great day and excellent company.

jasonpm 23/May/14 AltLd O/S

Great route!!!

with Stuart
stujamo 23/May/14 AltLd

Cracking day out! Lead 1,3 &6

with J.Merison
Bruce Kerr 15/Apr/14 AltLd
with Jenny Kerr
Hidden 16/Mar/14 AltLd
mikespooner 18/Dec/13 AltLd O/S

A bit lost, probably finished up Spits N Giggles

with Tim Christian
angie 08/Nov/13 AltLd O/S
with Ben Farrier
Matt Rowat 15/Oct/13 AltLd

Second time, brilliant day out. Full summit experience!

with Ross
Hidden 23/May/13 AltLd
jezb1 23/Apr/13 -

Lovely route. Trainers all the way so nice and comfy! Prob soft vs?

Hidden 23/Apr/13 AltLd
auld al 15/Apr/13 AltLd O/S
russtyg 16/Nov/12 2nd O/S
Hidden 10/Oct/12 AltLd O/S
tomdude 04/Oct/12 AltLd

Brilliant route, probably about VS in real money. scramble to the top interesting too - Marie threw camera off the side

with marie
marie_p 04/Oct/12 AltLd

Loved it! My camera lives here now :-(

with Tom
Timothy Miller ?/Oct/12 AltLd O/S
Hidden ?/Sep/12 Lead
crystalchris ?/Aug/12 2nd O/S
Hidden 22/May/12 Lead O/S
dakidunn 18/May/12 AltLd
with Matt Poole
Matt Poole 18/May/12 AltLd O/S
with Mark Dunn
JamieGreig 08/Apr/12 Lead O/S
mrteale 27/Mar/12 AltLd rpt

5 1/2 hours to summit, first lead on a multipitch (pitches 1,3,5,7), a fantastic adventure and stunning scenery.

Slick 24/Nov/11 AltLd
Egons Issy 24/Nov/11 -
with Kevin Vans-Colina, Richard Nicholson
Hidden 10/Nov/11 AltLd
jkarran 09/Nov/11 AltLd

Nice route with some good wandering route-finding on generally solid rock. The climbing is maybe a little forgettable but the situation and view is far from it. 4.5hrs start to car, the descent is longer than expected.

with Smith
Tala M 23/Oct/11 AltLd O/S

Lead pitches 2,4 and 6. Some interesting bolts in places, quite a few bits of tat. Definitely need a small rack, medium to large nuts and a few cams came in handy. All in all a very pleasant experience followed by the longest descent off the very top and down the winding path which seemed to go on forever! Took 5hours to reach the top by sunset, wrote in the book, then 1.5hours for the descent in the dark. Would strongly recommend the restaurant next to the parking ;)

matthomas79 23/Oct/11 AltLd O/S

Fantastic climbing. Takes a whole day to climb this route we took about 4 and a half hours to climb the route and even more time to scramble to the summit and take the long walk down, which ended up in the dark. This route definitely needs trad gear amd some of the pegs are looking very old but the clbin is easy amf shouldnt be a problem. You should reward yourself with a meal at the restaurant by the car park afterwards though.

with Tala Murdock
sgl 17/Oct/11 AltLd
with Susie
Connorsgrandad 11/Oct/11 2nd β

What a great climb, absolutely brilliant, but weather red hot, so sweaty. The scramble to the top didn't really enjoy that, too hot.

with William Jackson
UnkArl 07/Oct/11 AltLd O/S

A great adventure! Debbie led P1 and I lead the rest. All the belays are either fully bolted or have big fat in-situ tat on bomber threads. Some of the pitches have in-situ threads, pegs and the odd bolt but take a small trad rack (particularly short slings for threads on the upper pitches) and/or be prepared for some long run-outs. We had perfect overcast weather so it was never too hot (unlike the rest of our week). We moved fairly slowly but steadily due to Debbie fracturing her coccyx two weeks before and made it to the top of the climbing in 4hrs30min, the ridge scramble took us 45mins and the walk back to the bar 1hr15min. Don't forget to sign the "guestbook" at the top!

with Debbie
Debs 07/Oct/11 AltLd
with Karl
Hidden ?/Sep/11 2nd
lithos 04/Apr/11 AltLd

quality day out and walk down to bar for beer. take loads of slings and wires 5,6,7,8 poss fr 3. Newish tat at belays and threads

with julie
pebbles ?/Apr/11 AltLd

started early to do this then started late due to an organisational cockup. did scramble to top and just managed to finish before sunset. sensational route, although very very hot.

with david dickinson
Egons Issy ??/2011 -
with Kevin Vans-Colina, Richard Nicholson
Slick ??/2011 -
Different Steve 18/Nov/10 AltLd rpt
with Sheila Norman, Mervyn Lamacraft
DaNo123 18/Nov/10 AltLd
with steve
Hidden 01/Oct/10 AltLd O/S
isi_o ?/Oct/10 -
Hidden 19/Sep/10 AltLd
Hidden 19/Sep/10 Lead
AndyFunnell 19/Sep/10 AltLd
with Ruth Creamer
Patrick803 ?/May/10 -
with Jacqui Marwick, Mark Lambert
Hidden 24/Mar/10 -
Hidden ??/2010 Lead
flytzen 16/Oct/09 AltLd O/S
with Sean Worthington
jayme 08/Oct/09 AltLd O/S

What a fantastic climb, In MHO the start of pitch 2 is the hardest. even the scramble off at the top is fun

with westmoreland
Hidden 08/Oct/09 AltLd O/S
darren hudson ?/Aug/09 AltLd rpt

Return visit, no hangover this time and slightly earlier start. Very still and shocking heat but beautiful climb. Tin box at top to record ascent, nice touch.

with David Ford
prycey 06/May/09 AltLd β
Spence22 ?/May/09 Lead O/S
with Charlie
Conan 25/Apr/09 Lead O/S

Brilliant route. Would give it HS 4b as the pro was always good. Just got back to the car before the rain started!

with Lindsay
Ken Taylor 20/Apr/09 Lead O/S
with Richard Munro, Rob
Sdouglas 20/Apr/09 AltLd O/S

I led the two easiest pitches, 1 and 6

with George Wostenholm
gordon henderson 10/Mar/09 AltLd
with Chris Morris
CMorris 10/Mar/09 AltLd
Andy White 07/Mar/09 AltLd O/S

Lead Pitches 2, 4 & 6, soloed the scramble at the top

EeFu 07/Mar/09 AltLd
smudge 06/Mar/09 Lead O/S
djp1 06/Mar/09 2nd

Favourite Climb

with smudge
Hidden ??/2009 -
Hidden 30/Nov/08 AltLd O/S
Sankey 10/Nov/08 AltLd O/S

2hrs 10 to top of ridge. Really nice situation, and the scramble to the top completes it.

with Luke
thebigfriendlymoose 10/Nov/08 AltLd O/S
with Stephen
rusty_nails 07/Oct/08 Lead rpt

Lead the full 7 pitches of GLORIOUS climbing in an amazing atmosphere. Route has at least 4 fully bolted belay stances, others consisting of natural threads. Also numerous bits of in-situ gear, ranging from old slings and pegs, to 'home made' bolts. Scramble at top is almost as long as route itself, taking us at least 3-4 70m rope lengths in windy conditions.

with Ben Johnstone
cliffy ?/Oct/08 AltLd O/S
with Darren Cook, John Baddeley
Hidden ?/Oct/08 Lead O/S
Hidden 30/Sep/08 AltLd O/S
Andy Chubb 30/Sep/08 AltLd
with Joe Killick
darren hudson ?/Aug/08 2nd

Too hot and bad hangover. Take lots of liquid for this one. Probably August ain't the most sensible time to climb! Bailed after a few pitches

with David Ford
Hidden 02/May/08 Lead O/S
Hidden 02/May/08 2nd
brady 16/Apr/08 AltLd O/S

Apart from a few old pegs and bolted belays, very much a trad route. Take plenty of slings for the threads higher up. Some long run outs over very exposed rock. A great days climbing.

with Phil George
PhillipG 16/Apr/08 Lead O/S

Alternate pitches with steve

with Steve
Tony Little 15/Apr/08 Lead O/S
with Claire
red-poppy ?/Apr/08 2nd O/S
Hidden 16/Mar/08 AltLd O/S
Reeges 16/Mar/08 AltLd O/S

Great day out. Took a long time due to route finding. Gets windy!

rusty_nails 21/Dec/07 2nd O/S

Made our way up the arete in 7 pitches, then abbed down the 5+ sport route in 4 pitches with 2 hanging belay stances. Great views, and easy climbing with significant exposure at times.

with John Higginson
Hidden 17/Nov/07 Lead O/S
martinbath 17/Nov/07 2nd

Led second pitch only Alison led the rest.

Hidden 11/Sep/07 AltLd
Hidden ?/Sep/07 AltLd O/S
JPGR ?/Sep/07 AltLd O/S
with Andrew Newbie
Hidden 27/Jul/07 2nd O/S
Hidden 27/Jul/07 Lead
igneouscarl 20/Jul/07 AltLd O/S
with Tom Stahl
sam coward 16/Apr/07 Lead O/S

Right Hand Variant (grade 5).

with Helen
Somerset swede basher 09/Apr/07 AltLd O/S
with Dave, George and Stuart
Anna Horrox 08/Apr/07 AltLd

pitch 2 of Quan es fa fosc

clive-greenwood 08/Apr/07 AltLd O/S
with Anna
Stuart Johnston ?/Apr/07 AltLd O/S

Climbed in torrential rain

with Dominic Sellers, g taylor
brianrunner 03/Mar/07 AltLd

excellent route. worth scrambling up the final ridge to the top and walking off.

with martina
kevin k ?/Mar/07 AltLd
with dan, dave
danny 7a+ ?/Mar/07 AltLd
with kev ,dave
katie75 ?/Mar/07 AltLd
with dan, dave
John 'B' Hutchinson ?/Mar/07 Lead O/S
with Colin Bell
highclimber ?/Mar/07 AltLd O/S
Kyuzo ??/2007 -
Wayne S ??/2007 -
snowcat 02/Nov/06 AltLd O/S
with David Gale
Hidden 09/Oct/06 2nd
khawk ?/Apr/06 AltLd
with WH
sam coward ?/Mar/06 Lead O/S
with Tim
steve mee ?/Mar/06 AltLd
with Alan James, Mich Mee
Alan James - UKC and UKH 27/Feb/06 Lead
Hidden 04/May/05 Lead
Simon Caldwell 07/Apr/05 AltLd O/S


with Carmen
Hidden 03/Apr/05 AltLd O/S
kevinknights 14/Jan/05 AltLd O/S

Big and long and memorable. Dodgy first pitch.

with Alison Parker
Shaw Brown 24/Feb/04 Lead
with sara g
liabilityliz 19/Sep/02 Lead
with Xavier
Urgles ?/Apr/02 AltLd
with Laura
abbeywall 26/Oct/01 AltLd
with K
Hidden 26/Apr/01 AltLd O/S
chrishedgehog 11/Feb/01 AltLd O/S

Epic descent in the dark, lost each other, Joe had no head-torch, constantly nearly going over precipices, ran out of water, etc...

with Joe Thompson
tjekel ??/2001 -
Mark Riley 01/Nov/00 Lead O/S
with Milly
Hidden 10/Sep/00 -
Rich Malcolm 19/Apr/99 2nd O/S

P 1-3 only

with Colin Urquart, Darren Pallett
steve prior ?/Mar/99 Lead
with Roz C
Hidden 03/Nov/98 AltLd dnf
Chris Ellis 27/Apr/97 AltLd
with Louise Pellett
Hidden 28/Mar/97 AltLd
Hidden 11/Dec/96 AltLd
Hidden 10/Mar/96 AltLd
jacque ??/1996 AltLd
with Simon
Andy Say ?/Nov/95 Lead
Hidden 24/Aug/95 AltLd
Hidden ?/Apr/95 Lead O/S
shark 22/Mar/95 Lead
with Sonia
Hidden ??/1993 AltLd
Hidden ??/1984 -
Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
tobyk, BoHeMlo, derryclimbs, Hidden, Tom Moore, chrisboywonder, razzorbuzz, oliverthomp, Hidden, Hidden
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
High 4c
Mid 4c
Low 4c
High 4b
Mid 4b
Low 4b
Votes cast 28
Votes cast 36
Style of ascent
Alt Leads
Not Set
Flashed (β)
Not Set