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La ley del deseo*** 5+

Adjacent Climbs
<< Tranky Compi
 
Sonrisa vertical >>
[Stacked up on an abseil point, 3 kb]175m, 6 pitches. 'The Law of Desire' follows the right-hand side of the main ridge at a very amenable grade. It is fully bolted and very popular. The main drawback is people descending down it while you are on your way up. For this reason, a helmet is advised. 1) 5+. Take the left-hand line of bolts, just right of a corner. 2) 5+. Continue in roughly the same line. This pitch can be combined with pitch one. 3) 4+. Continue up the line marked by silver dots, to a belay at the top of an open rib. 4) 5. Continue to a well-positioned stance on a cleaned ledge. There is another belay 5m higher. 5) 4+. Move right and follow closely-spaced bolts up a wall on great holds to a possible belay on a stance behind some trees. However, it is better to continue for another 15m to a twin-bolted stance in a little open corner. 6) 5+. Make a hard start to this long final pitch which leads eventually to a belay just below the ridge of Albahida. Descent - Finish up the last easy pitch of Albahida and walk down - see page 103. Alternatively, abseil off taking care to avoid parties climbing up below you. © ROCKFAX
The rockfax guide book is not explicit enough. . You do need to factor in time to do the last pitch of Albahida where trad gear is advisable (which could turn into another two pitches as there are two more belay points) and then factor in a long scramble to the summit AND then an hour walk off. All in all probably better to allow three hours from top of pitch 6....

Photo: Stacked up on an abseil point © sam coward
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PUBLIC LOGBOOKS
This climb is in 118 logbooks, and on 2 wishlists.

a13x - Lead RP - 18/Apr/14 with Jessie Harris

Tom Smart - Lead O/S - 08/Apr/14 with nathan crabb

did 4 pitches, good climbing
phil456 - Lead O/S - 06/Apr/14 with rockandride guide

2nd pitch couldnt get past the last bolt left some crag swag
minus273degrees - Lead dnf - 08/Mar/14 with WBroughton

Just the most amazing experience sport climbing I've ever had. Wonderful route and feeling of exposure, seriousness and adventure. Climbed as a trio with the second tied in at a midpoint of the rope, worked well but took a long time. Did descent 1. Started at midday and ended with the last two pitches of Albahida in the dark as well as the knife-edge ridge scramble to the top and descent - start as early as you can and bring a few slings and about 2-5 larger nuts/hexes for the last bits of Albahida which aren't really described in the book (though we didn't use any nuts in the end). Book underestimates the time to get to the top and down. Well worth it though.
badgerjockey - AltLd O/S - 27/Dec/13 with Rich/Kuang

Lead all the pitches, but did it all in 3 looong pitches. So much fun. Scrambled to the summit thn walked off the top back to the car.
dswansonlow - Lead O/S - 17/Dec/13 with Grace

Interesting start to the trip! Lead pitch 1, 4 and 6. Pitch 6 is harder than a 5+ and the top section is not protected at all i.e. bring slings! The last pitch up albahida is not protected again. The rockfax description for the walk off is underestimated. We ended up in the dark scrambling across a ridge for an hour and then walking down scree back down to the bottom. At least a 3 hour walk off! Luckily, I had a head torch. . .
EalCapitan - AltLd O/S - 15/Dec/13 with Andrew Young

andrewyoung99 - Lead - 15/Dec/13

Fred_Richard - 15/Oct/13 with Pete

Abbed off after two pitches and fell when leading P2
AndyMcCoy - AltLd dnf - 13/Oct/13 with Terry

Hidden - 04/Oct/13

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 27/Aug/13

cmars89 - Lead - 31/May/13 with Pete Duckworth

Swinging leads from pitches 1-5 then abseiled back the line
torsok - AltLd dnf - 23/Apr/13 with Nigel

Only climbed p1-p5 - led 1, 2, 4
ajc - AltLd dnf - 12/Apr/13 with Morri

Hidden - AltLd - 03/Apr/13

undoingtheknots - Lead - Apr/13

Hidden - AltLd dog - 31/Mar/13

First multi-pitch climb ever. Scary but do-able. Final pitch a bit challenging...
jontutcher - 2nd dog - 29/Mar/13

Hidden - Lead dog - 29/Mar/13

Hidden - 28/Mar/13

mrteale - Mar/13

BigTone - AltLd O/S - 25/Dec/12

1st pitch only
HB1 - Lead O/S - 07/Dec/12 with GH

N-Missin - Lead O/S - 02/Nov/12

1st pitch
david0811 - Lead β - 27/Oct/12

P1, one nails move
MrRiley - Lead dog - 27/Oct/12 with Lachy Low, Dave Marshall, Cat Smith, Will Owen, Debbie Lee

1st pitch was Mol's best lead of the holiday. 4 pitches up we abbed off to go see the lightweights who had given up.
adi bryant - AltLd dnf - 26/Oct/12 with Molly-George

Climbed out on 2 easy trad pitches without gear and scrambled to the top
Catsjit - Lead - 16/Oct/12 with Koen N. en Tsjippe

sazmaz - AltLd O/S - 10/Oct/12 with Dan Lanchester-Wright

Hidden - Lead O/S - 09/Oct/12

Hidden - Lead β - 05/Oct/12

First pitch only
Haighy - Lead - 12/Jun/12

First pitch only
taylor123 - Lead - Jun/12

1st pitch only - 5+
ElliotGough - Lead O/S - May/12

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 07/Apr/12

You definitely need twin 50m ropes to ab off - the 6th pitch is about 40m. The sixth pitch is also nearer 6a than 5+ I would say, and it's more than just a move off the belay. I can't agree with the comments about polish... we hardly noticed any at all.
Andy Chubb - AltLd - 29/Mar/12 with Guy Hustinx

Jessicacrump - TR O/S - 26/Mar/12

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 24/Mar/12

My first really long multi-pitch sport climb, and what an adventure it turned out to be. We had planned to do some shorter routes before starting on this, but after arriving at the crag, we decided against this. We set off, and reached the first big ledge in what we thought was good time. We had lunch here, and then pressed on to the summit, only to find it was a longer way off than we had thought. After some difficulties with rope length resulting in Sam having to downclimb almost an entire trad pitch towards the top, we eventually topped out just as it went dark. We signed the book and stayed roped up for the scramble off which turned into more climbing towards the end when we got lost. Managed to disturb a couple's romantic new years on the sumit on the way down by asking for the road in poor french, and eventually made it home with a coup,e of hours to spare until midnight. Crazy day!
Adam_42 - Lead O/S - 31/Dec/11 with Joe Hook, Sam Keyne

Zoe did first two pitches in one. I did second half of climb in one. First Half nice but second part not quite as good.
JonnoP - AltLd O/S - 20/Oct/11 with Zoe S

jayme - AltLd O/S - 08/Oct/11 with Ben, westmoreland

Kyle's first multi-pitch. Joined up with Albahida to reach summit. Added our ascent to the tin hidden in the rock! I lead odd pitches, Kyle even. Took my first hanging belay toilet stop. Descent was brutal, abseil off!!!
marcb - AltLd O/S - 15/Sep/11 with Kyle Goslan

7 hours for the full summit
Inhambane - AltLd O/S - 29/Apr/11

5 hours to the summit! read the guidebook wrong and started up 'The Master' - Doh!
LeahJamie - Lead O/S - 29/Apr/11 with Ian Bell

C led all the harder pitches, I did the 4 and the 4+. She managed everything clean, I stood on a bolt on pitch 1, and pulled on a draw on the last pitch. Nobody else on the route all day, possibly because it was an airport changeover day, but also possibly because the temperatures were in the high 20s!
Simon Caldwell - AltLd - 09/Apr/11 with Carmen

Hidden - Lead O/S - 25/Nov/10

Rob84 - Lead O/S - 20/Nov/10 with Chipie

Awesome day, first 4 pitches flashed by but then we were slowed by encountering abseil points a lot and mistaking them for belays, then waiting for otehrs to abseil past us, then getting very tired. Walk off took an hour, and nearly an hour to do the summit ridge. All good tho. I led P2,4,6 and some of the top 45m 3+. We both flashed everthing. First pitch stiff for 5 (with a rucksack not warmed up!!!).
Phil Murray - AltLd O/S - 20/Oct/10 with Liz

Hidden - Lead O/S - 13/Oct/10

Superb quality all the way though a bit tougher than expected (probably due to heat and fatigue). If continuing to the summit, the last pitch of Albahida can easily be protected with a few slings.
barney800 - AltLd O/S - 05/Oct/10 with Katherine Shaw

AndyFunnell - 2nd - 23/Sep/10 with Ruth Creamer

chers - Lead - May/10

Hidden - 24/Mar/10

Hidden - AltLd - 17/Feb/10

Hidden - AltLd - 17/Feb/10

tmawer - AltLd O/S - 13/Jan/10 with Malorca jeremie

smudge - AltLd - 24/Nov/09 with Rob

Pitch 1 & 2 only
philhaigh - Lead O/S - Nov/09 with Natalie Haigh

Took a lead fall on first pitch, having forgotten to remove suntam cream and then getting pumped getting sorted ! Also a rest on pitch 2. Very hot but incredible route, tons of exposure and airy top out.
richorme - AltLd dog - 27/Oct/09 with Gary Woodburn

Pitch 2,4,6. walked off. and scrambled back to our bags. intended as quick warm up - ended up taking most (all ) of the day
Mattyk - AltLd O/S - 25/Oct/09 with Wilky

lead 1st, 3rd, 5th pitch.
Tim W - AltLd O/S - 25/Oct/09 with Matt Kilner

P1 and P6 pluse have the 3+ to the top. Superb
wpgaudin - Lead O/S - 16/Oct/09 with Matt Street, David Turland

What a route!. 1st pitch was incredibly polished making it a hard 5+. Hard start on Pitch 6 must have been 6a although climbing with a sack and getting tired by that stage.
Conan - AltLd O/S - 20/Apr/09 with Chris Michalak

Active rest day. Great day out.
Chazz - AltLd O/S - 19/Apr/09 with Matt Rowat

Awesome day out on our "active rest" day. Split both the last 2 long easy pitches into 2 meaning you could see and hear your partner all the time.
Matt Rowat - AltLd O/S - 19/Apr/09 with Charlie

Will ran pitches 1+2 together. Lead 3, 5 and easy pitch 7. Managed to Ab from top of pitch 3 to the floor in 1 on 50m ropes. Some hard moves fir a 5 on pitch 1, and nice technical moves on pitch 6. Gret way to spend a day
pottsworth - AltLd - 19/Mar/09 with Will

Great fun. Scrambled to the summit afterwards which seemed like a much better option than abseiling.
Andrew Barker - AltLd O/S - 15/Mar/09 with Dan O'Flynn

danoflynn - AltLd O/S - 15/Mar/09 with Andy Barker

Led P2,4,6. First on the route that day. 4 abseils off. 5 hours.
DafSWMC - AltLd O/S - 07/Mar/09 with Toby

Led pitches 2, 4 and 6.
Jim Slater - AltLd O/S - 02/Mar/09 with EeFu

EeFu - AltLd - 02/Mar/09 with Jim Slater

Hidden - AltLd - Mar/09

Hidden - Mar/09

Hidden - Lead O/S - Mar/09

Spence22 - Lead O/S - Mar/09 with Charlie

matthomas79 - 2nd - 16/Feb/09

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 03/Dec/08

Mike led pitches 1, 3 & 5. I led 2, 4, 6 and the top trad section. Finished up the top pitch of Albahida then onto the summit getting back to the car in the dark!
Fiona Reid - AltLd O/S - 21/Nov/08 with Mike

Odd pitches. Started late, caught up with another team who then abseiled over us. Topped out just before sunset.
Mike_Watson_99 - AltLd - 21/Nov/08 with Fiona

Simon Holden (LCandCC) - AltLd O/S - Nov/08 with Graham

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 02/Oct/08

Hidden - AltLd - 17/Sep/08

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 24/Apr/08

6 pitches of fun! I lead pitches 2, 4 and 6 and followed 1, 3 and 5. The view from the top was definately worth seeing. It took us a good amount of time. Almost whole day.
tjkk - AltLd O/S - 22/Apr/08 with Jussi

ioboy - AltLd - 15/Apr/08 with Jim Unwin

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 08/Apr/08

Really windy abseil off after pitch 1
SamStokes - Lead O/S - 01/Apr/08 with Emily Stokes

gfoster - Lead O/S - Apr/08 with Nick Blackbeard

Simon Rackley - Lead - Mar/08 with andy wilki

Great full day out with a good mate.
mattyork2 - Lead O/S - 22/Jan/08 with chris kay

RMAS
Theeni - Lead O/S - 20/Dec/07

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 11/Dec/07

Tom finished route, I left off the last pitch as hit the summer sun, whcih was no fun with a bag.
igneouscarl - AltLd O/S - 22/Jul/07 with Tom Stahl

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 30/Mar/07

brianrunner - AltLd - 09/Mar/07 with martina

K Wall - AltLd - 14/Feb/07 with Amanda, Martin

Superb fun. Ld p1+p2 as one long pitch, ld p5 and p7 (trad) right at the top. Abseiled down.
Nick Smith - UKC - AltLd O/S - 13/Feb/07 with Roslyn McKendry

givemetea - AltLd O/S - 13/Feb/07 with Nick Smith

maybe_si - Lead O/S - 09/Jan/07 with charlie

Lead pitch 1,3,5
Rebecca Buckenham - AltLd O/S - 07/Jan/07 with Andre

jimjimmyjimjim - AltLd O/S - 07/Jan/07

Abbed off after Pitch 4.
Oddjob - AltLd - 03/Jan/07

Kyuzo - 2007

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 09/May/06

sam coward - AltLd O/S - Mar/06 with Wayne

steve mee - Lead - Mar/06 with Mich Mee

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 23/Sep/04

P1 only
cem - Lead O/S - 09/May/04

I led P3. Superb.
Richard Alderton - AltLd - 21/Dec/01 with Ed

led first two pitches, really polished
abbeywall - AltLd - 25/Oct/01 with K

chrishedgehog - AltLd O/S - 08/Feb/01 with Joe Thompson

tjekel - 2001

Hidden - Lead - 25/Oct/99

John Southworth - Lead O/S - 22/Oct/97 with Vicky Munn

Pitch 1
goi.ashmore - Lead O/S - 23/Apr/97 with Trudi Veenstra

First two pitches as rest not in topo bought in Bunyola!
Scott McRae - AltLd O/S - Oct/94 with Steve Lucas

Mike Owen - 27/Jul/91 with Elaine Owen

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Voting
Total votes cast 58
hard 6a0 of 30
6a0 of 30
easy 6a4 of 30
hard 5+7 of 30
5+19 of 30
easy 5+0 of 30
hard 50 of 30
50 of 30
easy 50 of 30
3 Stars26 of 28
2 Stars2 of 28
1 Star0 of 28
0 Stars0 of 28
Bag of .....0 of 28
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Style of ascent

Lead40 of 118 (33.9%)
Followed4 of 118 (3.4%)
Toproped1 of 118 (0.8%)
Alt Leads64 of 118 (54.2%)
Unknown9 of 118 (7.6%)

'Climbed'38 of 118 (32.2%)
clean O/S67 of 118 (56.8%)
clean β2 of 118 (1.7%)
clean RP1 of 118 (0.8%)
dogged5 of 118 (4.2%)
dnf5 of 118 (4.2%)