Mallorca > Sa Gubia >
 
Sexo débil*** 6b+

Adjacent Climbs
<< Steep Groove		 
Es Barbut >>
103m, 5 pitches. An amazing route that weaves its way up the shady right-hand side of the bay through some dramatic territory. If you can come to terms with the ethical dilemma of the bolt-on holds on pitch 3, then you will be able to reach the last two pitches which are superb. Start below the pillar of rock below the right-hand side of the cave. 1) 4. Climb to the base of the corner. 2) 6a+. Pull up and right onto the wall, then climb to the ledge below an impressive bulging-wall. 3) 6b+. Traverse right, then heave up the tufas and 'bolt-ons'. These have worked loose over the years, making this pitch quite hard. A sling may be needed for aid. 4) 6b. Make a superb, rising traverse leftwards, on immaculate rock and just enough holds, to a hanging belay. As good as it gets! 5) 6b. Traverse back right and up the open groove to the top. Descent - Abseil down the route. With a single 60m rope, you will need to make three abseils via stances at the end of pitches 3 and 1. © ROCKFAX
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PUBLIC LOGBOOKS
This climb is in 21 logbooks, and on 1 wishlist.

Hidden - Lead - 16/Apr/13

Great route, especially middle pitches, screw on holds now firmly attached and this steep pitch contrasts well with delicate one which follows....
Chad123 - AltLd O/S - 20/Oct/11 with Emily

1st pitch only, F4.
bsparky - Lead dnf - 09/Oct/11 with Sam Cooper

Only climbed 1st pitch then couldn't remember which line of bolts to take so had to ab off. Idiots!
Dave 88 - 2nd dnf - 17/Sep/11 with silhouette

first 2 pitches only. led 2nd pitch.
dave657 - AltLd - 16/Nov/10 with Alys

awesome climb, lead pitch 1,3,4,5.
Simon Rackley - Lead - Oct/09 with stan hodson

Hidden - Lead O/S - 10/May/09

mbutton - Lead O/S - May/09 with Alex Adgar

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 19/Apr/09

Hidden - AltLd O/S - Mar/09

Hidden - Lead O/S - Mar/09

Hidden - 2nd - 13/Oct/08

Hidden - Lead - 09/May/06

Boy - 2006

matt.woodfield - AltLd - Apr/05

Hidden - AltLd - 2004

skygodley - AltLd - 10/Sep/99

Hidden - Lead O/S - 01/Apr/99

Jon Read - AltLd - Mar/98 with Justin Owen

Roget - Lead O/S - 18/Nov/97 with jon

Mike Owen - 25/Jul/91 with Elaine Owen

Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
Chazz
Voting
Total votes cast 6
hard 6c0 of 3
6c0 of 3
easy 6c0 of 3
hard 6b+2 of 3
6b+1 of 3
easy 6b+0 of 3
hard 6b0 of 3
6b0 of 3
easy 6b0 of 3
3 Stars2 of 3
2 Stars1 of 3
1 Star0 of 3
0 Stars0 of 3
Bag of .....0 of 3
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Style of ascent

Lead9 of 21 (42.9%)
Followed2 of 21 (9.5%)
Alt Leads8 of 21 (38.1%)
Unknown2 of 21 (9.5%)

'Climbed'11 of 21 (52.4%)
clean O/S8 of 21 (38.1%)
dnf2 of 21 (9.5%)