E1. A fine, and huge climb up the centre of the face, the first line on the cliff, put up in 1972. The route has over 500m of climbing and a lot of rambling - even fast teams will want to start early. The best start is to use the first pitch of Gorilas although the original start came in from the left in three grassy pitches.
1) 6a, 45m. As for Gorilas en la roca.
2) 2+, 40m. Scramble along the ledge, then up the ramp.
3) 3, 40m. Contiue up the ramp as it steepens.
4) 4+, 40m. Climb the slab moving right at half-height to reach a small stance below steeper rock.
5) 6a, 45m. The crucial pitch contains plenty of fixed gear, though not enough to aid climb it. Follow this up and left across the wall (passing an optional stance) to reach the base of an open groove.
6) 4+, 35m. Climb the groove to its end and a belay on the left.
7) 4+, 25m. Weave up the wall to a stance below easier ground.
8) 3, 40m. Trend right then up, the right again to the major ledge system that cuts across the upper part of the face.
9) 1, 50m. Follow the ledges right to below an open groove.
10) 4+, 30m. Up the groove to the higher ledge system.
Note: It is possible to escape right from here along the ledge system, to join the descent route. Care required.
11) 1, 50m. Scramble back left to where the ledge ends.
12) 3, 20m. Climb the ramp to a belay below a leaning groove.
13) 6a, 35m. Up the groove to its closure where exposed moves reach easy ground.
14) 4, 50m. Easier climbing trending slightly right reaches the top - at last.
Descent - Walk uphill in a northeast direction towards the top of the hill to a small col (cairns). A 40m abseil from a tree leads to open ground. Head down and left (cairns and white arrows) out onto the buttress to the north of the huge gully. On the end of this descend a ramp to locate the anchors. Two abseils (25m and 30m) lead to the foot of the face. © Rockfax
FA. J.Pi, J.Adalid, C.Torregrosa 1972
Ticklists: Costa Blanca "Must Do" routes.
|Climber||Date||Style||Notes & Partners|
when half way up
Andy Span rock
|dan ely||02/Feb/11||AltLd O/S||
Took 6 hours. Start of decent very hard to find using Rockfax directions.
|auld al||11/Jan/11||AltLd O/S||
started climbing at 7.30 (first light) and topped out at 3.30 - rockfax description is 'vague' for top pitches and descent. the pitches graded 5 were fine but the main 6a pitch was a tough traverse with both people needing to be competant at 6a
In approach shoes. Six hours.
|Tom Phillips||24/Jan/07||AltLd O/S||
split crux pitch. not possible to aid crux - has to be climbed free at about 6a+ good bolt belays on all the main pitches after the initil easy ramp. traverse of the climb right and easier to ab to a large tree at one point. befor esrambling up over a ridge with a cairn on it.
Mam and Dad