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|Benidorm > Ponoch >
|Vía Valencianos|| 6a |
<< Cafe Licor
Fisura Hermanos Gallego >>
|615m, 16 pitches. A fine, and huge climb up the centre of the face, the first line on the cliff, put up in 1972. The route has over 300m of climbing and a lot of rambling - even fast teams will want to start early. It starts at a scratched arrow below the left-hand end of the grassy ledge system cutting across the base of the face.
1) 3+, 55m. Climb rightwards to the ramp (possible stance) then ramble to a wire cable belay.
2 - 5) 2+, 140m. Scramble along the ledge, then up the steepening ramp passing belays at intervals.
6) 4+, 40m. Climb the steeping slab moving right at half-height to reach a small stance below steeper rock.
7) 6a, 45m. The crucial pitch contains plenty of fixed gear! Follow this up and left across the wall (passing an optional stance) to reach the base of an open groove.
8) 4+, 35m. Climb the groove to its end and a belay on the left.
9) 4+, 25m. Weave up the wall to a stance below easier ground.
10) 3, 40m. Trend right then up, the right again to the major ledge system that cuts across the upper part of the face.
11) 1, 50m. Follow the ledges right to below an open groove.
12) 4+, 30m. Up the groove to the higher ledge system.
NOTE: It is possible to escape right from here along the ledge system, to join the descent route. Care required.
13) 1, 50m. Scramble back left to where the ledge ends.
14) 3, 20m. Climb the ramp to a belay below a leaning groove.
15) 6a, 35m. Up the groove to its closure where exposed moves reach easy ground.
16) 4, 50m. Easier climbing trending slightly right reaches the top - at last!
DESCENT - See photo opposite. Walk uphill in a NE direction towards the top of the hill to a small col (cairns). A 40m abseil from a tree leads to open ground. Head down and left (cairns and white arrows) out onto the buttress to the north of the huge gully. On the end of this descend a ramp to locate the anchors. Two abseils (25m and 30m) lead to the foot of the face. © ROCKFAX|
FA. J.Pi, J.Adalid, C.Torregrosa 1972
Ticklists: Costa Blanca "Must Do" routes.
Photo: Lev on Via Valencianos © Emma
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This climb is in 10 logbooks, and on 8 wishlists.
Hidden - AltLd O/S - 06/Apr/12
Lev - AltLd O/S - 06/Apr/12 with Emma Ross
when half way up
stevens744 - 2nd O/S - 15/Nov/11 with Andy Span rock
Took 6 hours. Start of decent very hard to find using Rockfax directions.
dan ely - AltLd O/S - 02/Feb/11 with scottish scott
started climbing at 7.30 (first light) and topped out at 3.30 - rockfax description is 'vague' for top pitches and descent. the pitches graded 5 were fine but the main 6a pitch was a tough traverse with both people needing to be competant at 6a
auld al - AltLd O/S - 11/Jan/11
btc - AltLd O/S - 04/Jan/11 with Bob Workman
In approach shoes. Six hours.
KevB - AltLd - 16/Dec/10 with Tony P
Hidden - AltLd - 14/Nov/10
split crux pitch. not possible to aid crux - has to be climbed free at about 6a+ good bolt belays on all the main pitches after the initil easy ramp. traverse of the climb right and easier to ab to a large tree at one point. befor esrambling up over a ridge with a cairn on it.
Tom Phillips - AltLd O/S - 24/Jan/07 with bruce
Jay.Carr - 2001 with Mam and Dad
Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
robbo99, Hidden, Hidden, Hidden, Hidden, rob askew, Hidden, lrandall