Rockfax Description
A line up the walls and ramps to the left of the easier ground taken by Valencianos. The route starts at the base of the Valencianos ramp. The first five pitches are fully bolted. There is less gear on the upper section so take a small rack.1) 6a, 45m. As for Gorilas to the big ledge. Walk right to a JD symbol. 2) 6a, 45m. 3) 5, 30m. 4) 5+, 35m. 5) 6a+, 10m. 6) 6a, 40m. 7) 6a+, 35m. Descent - At the top of pitch 7 (the layback crack) traverse right and slightly down for about 8 m to new chain belay. 3 x 50m abseils get you back on the big ledge. © Rockfax
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| User | Date | Notes | ||
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Pottsy84 | 19 Oct, 2022 |
Show βeta
βeta: Useful topo at the foot of this page: https://www.mountain-journeys.co.uk/blog/category/viaje-espacial The start is further left than the Gorilas description might suggest. Once you get up to the base of the crag (a bit of a mission in itself through scrubby woodland with no clear path up the hill) the pinnacle is obvious to your right. There is a bay next to this with a couple of routes - not the right place! Head left 100m or so under the big sandy overhangs to where the rock turns grey again, you'll find an obvious straight-up bolt line starting up a rocky ramp. P1-5 well enough bolted if you're happy being a bit run out, second half of P6 has four rusty pegs in quick succession then a long (10-15m?) run-out on easier (but not that easy after the rust-trauma) ground to the belay. P7 we didn't climb but looked like after a couple of bolts a trad rack suitable for a flake crack would be needed. All belays have solid-looking double bolts/hangers, several with some older hardware as well. | βeta? | |
|
Show beta
βeta: Useful topo at the foot of this page: https://www.mountain-journeys.co.uk/blog/category/viaje-espacial The start is further left than the Gorilas description might suggest. Once you get up to the base of the crag (a bit of a mission in itself through scrubby woodland with no clear path up the hill) the pinnacle is obvious to your right. There is a bay next to this with a couple of routes - not the right place! Head left 100m or so under the big sandy overhangs to where the rock turns grey again, you'll find an obvious straight-up bolt line starting up a rocky ramp. P1-5 well enough bolted if you're happy being a bit run out, second half of P6 has four rusty pegs in quick succession then a long (10-15m?) run-out on easier (but not that easy after the rust-trauma) ground to the belay. P7 we didn't climb but looked like after a couple of bolts a trad rack suitable for a flake crack would be needed. All belays have solid-looking double bolts/hangers, several with some older hardware as well. |
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| Neil Foster | 6 Jan, 2007 |
Show βeta
βeta: Apparently this has been fully equipped now. | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: Apparently this has been fully equipped now. |
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Route of Interest
Diedro del Pánico
Grade: 6a+ ***
(Aixorta - Nevero)