|280m, 7 pitches. A popular climb, with an easy approach and descent (well relatively), on good rock, and not too long - at least when compared to the stuff further to the left! Start in the bay at the right-hand side of the face.
1) 4+, 40m. Trend slightly right up the side of the buttress.
2) 4+, 45m. Continue in the same line to a good ledge.
3) 6a+, 25m. Follow the right-trending wall and groove (crux) to easier ground an a little higher a belay on a good tree.
4) 5, 45m. Move easily right then climb to the right of the crest of the buttress before pulling back left to a stance.
5) 6a, 40m. Continue up the buttress (tricky but soon easing) then the groove on the right and up to a stance.
6) 5+, 40m. Climb a little higher then follow the ledge out left to its end and then climb a short exposed wall to more ledges.
7) 5, 45m. Originally the route finished up the grassy ramps than run up an left to reach the Valencianos escape route, though it is much better to trend right onto the rounded buttress and climb this to a sudden finish. © ROCKFAX|
FA. J.Matas, J.Lorenzo 1978