55m, 2 pitches.

Rockfax Description
The most popular line here follows the long grooveline which is gained by a steep and impressive start. The climbing is a bit unbalanced but the line and situation more than make up for this. Start below and right of the main grooveline.
1) 5a, 15m. Pull up and traverse left, then climb direct to the stance. All easier than it looks.
2) 5c, 32m. A technical little move up the slab above (microwires) gains the main groove. Follow this, trending leftwards at the top. A fine pitch. © Rockfax

FA. S.Lewis 10.10.79 10/Oct/1979

Ticklists: Extreme Rock, 100 best limestone climbs in Britain, Ultimate E1 ticklist, UK Lonely Leads.

Sarah Black 05/Sep Lead O/S

Excellent route with loads of great gear. P2 only as the ab rope wasn't quite long enough.

Andrew Wilson 31/Aug AltLd O/S
with Matt Nuttall
mattnuttall 31/Aug AltLd O/S

Lead P2. That 5c move is genuinely quite tricky.

sparbus 19/Jul AltLd

Me pitch 1. Grabbed gear at crux of pitch 2.

with mike b
climbingpixie 23/May AltLd O/S

Very nice climbing. Thought the first pitch was really tough but that might have been a reach issue, glad I was on second though. Crux of the second pitch was placing the microwire - once it was in the move felt thin but alright.

with Andy
Hidden 23/May AltLd O/S
Ian1987 04/Apr 2nd dog
markalmack 04/Apr Lead O/S

I thought this was better than Daydreams

with ian
Gary Gibson ??/2015 -
phil64 ??/2015 -
Apharri 28/Aug/14 AltLd O/S

I lead 1

Jim Slater 24/Aug/14 AltLd O/S

Led P1

Graeme Hammond 24/Aug/14 AltLd O/S

Excellent, led P2, thin start but easy after.

with Jim
Steven Carter 07/Aug/14 AltLd O/S
Ollie B 18/Apr/14 Lead O/S

Did it in 1 long pitch

with B.Brewer
Andrew1 12/Apr/14 AltLd
with Hulda
Hidden 12/Apr/14 AltLd
GuyVG 29/Mar/14 2nd O/S

only top pitch as tide was in, hard start!

with DJ Malx
Hidden ??/2014 -
mike mo ??/2014 -
Ed morris 06/Oct/13 AltLd O/S

Led crux pitch.

with Adam Bevan
Hidden 25/Aug/13 AltLd O/S
soph 24/Aug/13 Lead O/S
with Helena Robinson
Hidden 12/Aug/13 2nd β
Hidden 10/Aug/13 AltLd O/S
DubyaJamesDubya ?/Aug/13 Lead O/S

Tide coming in added to an eerie experience

stuart34 26/May/13 AltLd O/S


with mike thomas
Hidden 26/May/13 AltLd O/S
Rob Greenwood - UKClimbing ?/Apr/13 Lead O/S
Duncan Campbell 29/Mar/13 2nd

COLD! Rob crushed it with a set of cams and some microwires after we (I) forgot we had split the rack and that I had the wires. Last time I do that. Good, and tricky climbing, especially in the icey wind!

with Robbie
Rob Greenwood - UKClimbing 29/Mar/13 Lead
jcw ??/2013 -
al99 15/Sep/12 AltLd O/S

Great route, the crux on pitch two with the single microwire protection (and the bold moves above) make this E2 I think. The 1st pitch is 5b.

with Luke Thomas
Cardi 31/Aug/12 AltLd O/S

Led P1 - quite big, steep and bold moves until a thread is reached. Maybe a couple of 5b moves to get to the belay too. Start of second pitch is a big contrast to most routes in Pembroke! Great route overall.

with Tom R
Adam Booth 06/Apr/12 2nd O/S
Ed Booth 06/Apr/12 Lead O/S

One pitch.

haydng 01/Apr/12 AltLd O/S
with Dave
switch 01/Apr/12 2nd rpt
with David B-St L, Haydn
Bob ??/2012 -
Hidden ??/2012 -
Owen W-G 19/Aug/11 AltLd O/S

Led P2. Thin crux. No real selection of micronuts needed, just one 3/4 nut.

with Jim
Hidden 19/Aug/11 AltLd O/S
robw007 30/Jul/11 Lead β

In the rain - nearly an epic!

dan gibson 23/Apr/11 AltLd O/S

finished up Year of the Cat. Good alternative.

with richard lade
Hidden 22/Apr/11 AltLd O/S
Marcus ??/2011 -
Jack Geldard - UKC Chief Editor ??/2011 -
GeoffG ??/2011 -
Lone Rider ??/2011 -
Dan Lane 29/Aug/10 AltLd O/S

I led P1, proberbly 5b. The route as a whole is E2.

with Richard and Maria
ian caton 28/Aug/10 Lead O/S

I think the first pitch alone, if not chalked, would provide food for thought for a lot of e1 leaders. if your first there, hint, run your ab rope off to the right, looking out, otherwise everyone is coming right down on your head.

with Abi
Hidden 03/Jul/10 Lead O/S
Hidden 16/May/10 Lead
irish paul 02/May/10 AltLd O/S

2nd pitch

with Dave Ripley
Hidden 02/May/10 AltLd O/S
Seymore Butt ??/2010 -
cymjt ??/2010 -
clipskipper 12/Sep/09 Lead O/S
with Davey Boy
spacey 05/Sep/09 AltLd
Hidden 09/Aug/09 Lead O/S
belay bunny turned bad 09/Aug/09 2nd O/S
with loundsy
Hidden 27/Jun/09 Lead O/S
Hidden 27/Jun/09 2nd
feilx 13/Jul/08 AltLd O/S
with Andy L
lukea 14/Jun/08 AltLd O/S
with Rich
Castleclimber 14/Jun/08 AltLd O/S

Led first (soft) pitch.

Paz 25/Jun/06 Lead O/S
with TS
tom.e 28/May/06 2nd O/S
with Charlie Everett
Hidden 17/Apr/06 Lead O/S
Hidden 17/Apr/06 AltLd O/S
Bern ??/2006 -
Kev Little ??/2006 Lead O/S
david morse ?/Aug/05 Lead
with rampant
cem 30/Apr/05 AltLd O/S

Led p2

Hidden 02/May/04 AltLd O/S
Hidden ?/May/04 Lead rpt
Chad123 ??/2000 -
Boy ??/2000 -
Tim M ??/2000 -
jfletcher 31/May/99 AltLd
with David Lyons
WB ??/1999 Lead O/S
with Guy
Rich Kirby ?/Apr/98 AltLd
with Hugh
NeilGriffiths 16/Aug/97 Lead O/S
with Neil Nussey
phardman ??/1997 -
snowcat 08/Sep/96 2nd
with Chris Schiller
Hidden 06/Apr/96 AltLd
craig h ?/Apr/96 AltLd O/S
Marti999 ??/1996 Lead
Hidden ??/1996 Lead
Hidden 28/Aug/95 AltLd O/S
Glenn Sutcliffe ??/1995 -
with keefe
keefe ??/1995 -
AlanLittle 20/Aug/94 Lead
with Rob Allen
Hidden 28/Aug/93 AltLd
Hidden 27/Jul/92 Lead O/S
mikej 17/Jun/92 AltLd
with Mike Byles
keefe 27/Sep/91 -
whispering nic 03/Aug/91 Lead
with Graham Iles
bullybones ??/1990 -
Andy Edgar ??/1990 2nd
with Hugh Woodland
Dave Rumney 01/Aug/89 AltLd
Hidden 24/Jun/89 Lead
Bruce Kerr 01/Aug/88 Lead
with Terry Johnston
Alan James - UKC and UKH 05/Apr/88 Lead
with Phil Baker
Steve Crowe 02/Apr/88 2nd O/S
PaulTanton ?/Apr/88 AltLd O/S
Mike Owen 24/Apr/87 -
with Elaine Owen
DDDD ??/1987 AltLd
with Gary Crocker
andy gittins ??/1987 -
William Robertson ??/1987 Lead O/S
with Emily, Steve, Shaun etc
shark 06/Apr/86 AltLd
with Phill Dickens
Hidden ??/1986 -
Hidden 16/Aug/85 AltLd
Hidden 20/Jul/85 Lead
Hidden ?/Jul/85 -
Mark Kemball 24/Jul/83 2nd
with Dave Abbey
Hidden ??/1982 AltLd
Marcus ??/1980 -
Marcus ??/1980 -
Marcus ??/1980 -
Marcus ??/1980 -
robinsi197 ??/1980 AltLd
with Barbara
steve L 16/Jun/79 Lead O/S
with Charlie
Hidden ??/1973 -
Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
Hidden, TomRiddelsdell, hutchay, Hidden, gurumed, gjd, Hidden, James Oswald, Ed Booth, Alan100, Ian Jones, Hidden, Dan Lane, Ceridwen, tobydunford, Hidden, a_radiohead_fan
High E2
Mid E2
Low E2
High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
High HVS
Votes cast 30
High 6a
Mid 6a
Low 6a
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
Votes cast 30
Votes cast 29
Style of ascent
Alt Leads
Not Set
Flashed (β)
Not Set