Rockfax Description
A popular climb which happily repelled teams for years when graded E1. The traverse right from the cave usually proves to be a bit taxing, especially when damp. In such conditions the direct finish (as for Play Misty for Me) isn't any harder. Start on a good ledge below an open slanting groove on the left-hand side of the wall. Climb the groove and then trend rightwards along a crack to another, steeper groove. This leads to the cave. Hard layback moves up and right leave you beneath a easier groove. Climb this and the easy upper wall to the top. © Rockfax

FA. C.Heard 25.7.81 25/Jul/1981

Ticklists: Pembroke Rockfax Top 50.


ClimberDateStyle
Hidden 25/Jun 2nd O/S
Graeme Hammond 25/Jun Lead O/S

Turns out you need a lower tide thanit looked from the top to access the ledge below the climb (or abseil in more direct or doggy looking down-climb suggested in CC guide) so a fair amount of entertainment swinging left to gain the arête and starting ledge from the right whilst trying not to get wet just. Then managed to drop my belay device so not the best start to the route. Great route at least, generally climbed well apart from some gear faff at the cave, the traverse was almost bone dry and not that hard after which the climbing eases completely.

Hidden 05/Jun 2nd O/S
Ollie B 05/Jun Lead O/S
with A.Rosier
Hidden 04/Jun 2nd
Hidden 04/Jun Lead
Hidden ?/Sep/15 2nd
Mark Warnett ?/May/15 Lead O/S

Hot and tough

with Princess Diana
tim newton 06/Apr/15 2nd rpt
Rachel Slater 06/Apr/15 Lead O/S

Fun slither out of the cave.

Duncan Campbell 05/Apr/15 2nd

Really good. Pretty steady all the way with a wild finish!

Sarah Black 22/Mar/15 Lead O/S
dswansonlow 19/Apr/14 2nd O/S
Stuart Johnston 19/Apr/14 2nd O/S
adam 24 19/Apr/14 Lead O/S
with Chris Hobbs, Stuart Johnston
shed_hed 19/Apr/14 Lead O/S

Superb! Coming out of the cave at the top looked so implausible for the grade.

owain86 14/Apr/14 Lead O/S
with Chris
mike mo ??/2014 -
Ed morris 28/Aug/13 Lead O/S

Greasy lower wall.

with -martin
tim newton 21/Aug/13 Lead O/S

greasy, finished up the headwall finish of 'play misty for me'

nickstephens 12/Aug/13 2nd O/S
gg4419 12/Aug/13 Lead O/S

Amazing route, every type of climbing and fantastic exposure on top head wall, three stars!

Mark Grist 21/Jul/13 2nd O/S
Sam Simpson 21/Jul/13 Lead O/S
clipskipper 08/Jun/13 AltLd O/S

Led the top pitch out over the roof. Fairly decent holds, but pumpy, and glad to get out onto easier ground. Good route.

with Davey Boy
tebs 01/Jun/13 2nd O/S
with Rich
andrew sandercock 06/Apr/12 2nd O/S

Pretty exciting on the traverse!

with Mark A
markalmack 06/Apr/12 Lead O/S
Hidden 29/Aug/11 2nd O/S
Hidden 14/Aug/11 Lead O/S
Hidden 14/Aug/10 Lead O/S
Adam Booth 19/Jun/10 Lead O/S
Ed Booth 19/Jun/10 2nd O/S
Hidden ?/Aug/09 -
rdi1v07 29/Sep/08 TR
Chad123 17/May/08 AltLd rpt

Bit slimy and slippy today, rain didn't help - full value!

with Emily
cem 26/May/07 Lead O/S
shoulders 26/May/07 Lead
with dai
feilx 25/Mar/07 Lead O/S
chris wyatt 22/Apr/06 2nd O/S
with Mike Barclay
Bern ??/2006 -
Kev Little ??/2006 Lead O/S
lukea 09/Apr/04 2nd O/S
with Al
Hidden 16/Aug/03 2nd
gonggashan ?/Apr/03 2nd
with Dave
Billg ??/2001 Lead O/S
Hidden ?/May/00 2nd O/S
Tim M ??/2000 -
sadams 29/Aug/98 Lead
with Pete Bukowski
Graham Iles 22/Aug/98 Lead
with Jenny Tweedy
ArnaudG ??/1998 -
Dave Rumney ?/May/94 -
mikej 06/Jun/93 Lead
with Mike Byles
Andy Say 27/May/93 Lead O/S
Bruce Kerr 13/Apr/93 Lead
mattnuttall 05/May/91 Lead O/S

was also E1

with Alan Holden
Alan James - UKC and UKH ?/May/88 2nd
with Phil Baker
Hidden 05/Jul/87 Lead
Dave Musgrove 21/Apr/87 2nd
with Rupert Wyard
GuyM ??/1985 -
Chris Craggs ??/1980 Lead
Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
AlexD, Ed Babs, Dan0Me, Hidden, Owen W-G, gurumed, WB, Hidden, Hidden, Hidden, Dan Lane, Ceridwen, Hidden, Hidden, spacey, a_radiohead_fan
Voting
High E3
Mid E3
Low E3
High E2
Mid E2
Low E2
High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
Votes cast 10
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
Votes cast 10
Votes cast 10
Style of ascent
Lead
Followed
Alt Leads
Toproped
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
Not Set