Pembrokeshire > Bosherston Head >
 
Star Wars*** E4 5c

Adjacent Climbs
<< Luke Skywalker
 
Eat, Drink and Beat Gary >>
[Star Wars, 3 kb]39m. A magnificent and elegant climb. There is a lot more gear than the grade suggests and although there are hardly any easy moves, there are no desperate ones either. Start from the ledge at the foot of the corner. The original start followed the corner for 3m then traversed right to the arete but it is better to climb up the blunt arete from the right-hand end of the belay ledge. Continue to the mid-height break and the base of a long straight crack. Move right to a narrow groove then trend up and rightwards on improving holds to another break. Move right again and finish up a groove with an increasing sense of elation - beautiful! © ROCKFAX
B Wintringham 29/Jun/1980

Ticklists: Pembroke Rockfax Top 50, Great Wall Climbs of the UK, Very good routes in the UK, 100 best limestone climbs in Britain, UK Lonely Leads.

Photo: Star Wars © switch
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PUBLIC LOGBOOKS
This climb is in 129 logbooks, and on 50 wishlists.

Tom Livingstone - Lead O/S - 21/Apr/14 with Phil Dowthwaite

Super classic, absolutely brilliant climbing all the way.
Adam Booth - Lead rpt - 20/Apr/14 with Ed Booth

Ed Booth - 2nd rpt - 20/Apr/14 with Adam Booth

Misha - Lead O/S - 18/Apr/14 with Tim Newton

Stunning stuff, would happily do it again and again I think
anguskille - Lead O/S - 18/Apr/14 with Tom Fenwick

tim newton - 2nd O/S - 18/Apr/14 with misha nepogodiev

Awesome route! Nice easy E4 tick if you're happy face climbing. None of the moves are hard and there is plenty of gear, it's just a bit fiddly and never amazing.
shed_hed - Lead O/S - 18/Apr/14 with Dougie Swanson-Low

Hidden - Lead O/S - 18/Apr/14

dswansonlow - 2nd rpt - 18/Apr/14 with Darren McMaster

fennerz - 2nd O/S - 18/Apr/14 with Angus Kille

Julian Cooper - Lead O/S - 15/Apr/14 with Stuart Knott

Hidden - Lead - 13/Apr/14

Tubs - 2nd O/S - 12/Apr/14 with Dave M

great route
phil64 - 2nd rpt - Apr/14 with tom livingstone

mike mo - 2014

pie_eater_pete - Lead O/S - 09/Sep/13 with bwestwood

bwestwood - 2nd - Sep/13

Andrew Wilson - 2nd O/S - 29/Aug/13 with jon stewart

1 rest on last gear before final hard move. Missed crucial right foot hold which made the move much easier once found. Lots of 5c, poor rests until 2/3 of way up
cooperman - Lead dog - 07/Jul/13 with Greg Foster

dominic lee - Lead O/S - 30/Jun/13 with andy elliot

Followed gwen to get confidence for Luke Skywalker. Forgot how good this route was. Such good moves all the way. One of the best!
markalmack - 2nd rpt - 06/May/13 with gwen

wolverine - Lead O/S - 05/May/13 with John Nightingale

well grease
mark20 - Lead O/S - 20/Apr/13

ejected - Lead O/S - 2013

dav - Lead O/S - 30/Aug/12 with Gill B

Such an incredible route, if you aren't expecting lots of gear you will be pleasantly surprised!
Ed morris - Lead O/S - 26/Aug/12 with Adam Bevan

dswansonlow - Lead O/S - 14/Aug/12 with jacob loyd

jacobjlloyd - 2nd rpt - 14/Aug/12 with Dougie

Hidden - Lead O/S - 11/Aug/12

robin_hackney - 2nd O/S - 11/Aug/12 with Si

alzheimers on site. Bolder than I remember
Billg - Lead O/S - 28/Jul/12 with Bob Brewer

burto - Lead O/S - 28/Jul/12 with hertha

Magnificent, a fair bit easier to 2nd than lead I would imagine, as some gear must be a bit tricky to place and some hard moves are a bit above (mainly good) placements.
mountain.martin - 2nd O/S - 01/Jul/12

Hidden - Lead O/S - 04/Jun/12

belay bunny turned bad - 2nd O/S - 04/Jun/12 with loundsy

Bold start!
richardr - Lead O/S - 13/May/12 with Chris Wyatt

excellent
chris wyatt - 2nd O/S - 13/May/12 with rich

Hidden - Lead O/S - 06/May/12

Went off route on to Luke Skywalker. Fell 10m trying to down climb.
Chi Cheng - Lead O/S - 06/May/12 with Jon Fane

Really want to come back and lead this at some point. Route of the trip, even on second!
andrew sandercock - 2nd O/S - 08/Apr/12 with Mark A

Easier than pleasure dome!!! 1 "move" above poor gear, but all the rest above sinker gear. pure class route.
markalmack - Lead O/S - 08/Apr/12 with andrew sandercock

Hidden - Lead O/S - 07/Apr/12

bigie bob - 2nd O/S - 07/Apr/12

sam820 - 2nd - 06/Apr/12 with Murdoch

Hidden - Lead O/S - 28/Aug/11

Hidden - Lead O/S - 17/Aug/11

Brilliant.
thomasadixon - Lead O/S - 02/Aug/11 with Mike

feilx - 2nd rpt - 03/Jul/11 with Andy L

quiffhanger - Lead O/S - 03/Jul/11

HamishD - Lead O/S - 02/Jul/11 with Wil Treasure

Hidden - 2nd - 02/Jul/11

dannyboy83 - 2nd O/S - 02/Jul/11 with Jake

jacobjlloyd - Lead O/S - 02/Jul/11 with Dan Barbour

pipof747 - Lead O/S - 26/Jun/11

GrantB - 2nd O/S - 27/Apr/11 with Robertson

Hidden - Lead - 27/Apr/11

Luke Brooks - 2nd - 26/Apr/11 with John Orr

Ally Smith - Lead O/S - 26/Apr/11 with Aly Robertson

Hidden - 2nd - 26/Apr/11

Hidden - Lead O/S - 17/Apr/11

Hidden - 2nd - 02/Apr/11

phil64 - 2011

good route but a bit dissapointing, possibly able to lank past some of the moves making it less sustained
mwatson - 2011 with thomasadixon

Ed Babs - Lead O/S - 26/Sep/10 with Harry

datoon - Lead O/S - 30/Aug/10 with K

laced it! got to get e4 because it's a relatively serious situation, in comparison say to st. govans.
ian caton - Lead O/S - 28/Aug/10 with Abi

Wonderful climbing! Real steady, not a pumper, but awkward to find gear, so ended up just running it out quite a bit. Would be a wicked DWS!
Mike Goldthorp - Lead O/S - 23/Aug/10 with Laura Perry, alex mason

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 15/Aug/10

Fell off on Luke Skywalker, so traversed off.
morganator - Lead O/S - 14/Aug/10 with Andy Benson

soph - Lead O/S - Aug/10 with Dan McManus

billb - Lead O/S - Aug/10 with Mark Warnet

Hidden - 2nd O/S - Jul/10

Good Pitch. Gets better and better the higher you go up.
Franco Cookson - Solo O/S - 01/May/10 with Jack

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 01/May/10

Pown - 2nd O/S - 09/Apr/10

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 21/Aug/09

Hidden - Lead O/S - 18/Aug/09

mattyork2 - Lead O/S - 20/Jun/09 with Tim Jepson

Hidden - Lead O/S - 25/May/09

Awesome. One to go back and lead when I'm a bit fitter.
climbingpixie - 2nd dog - 25/May/09 with Andy Hobson

this pitch is amazing. A real MUST DO. Probably one of my favorite pitches ever!!!
Ed Booth - Lead O/S - 14/Sep/08

Adam Booth - 2nd O/S - 14/Sep/08 with Ed Booth

A moment of panic when I embarked on some hard moves to come to a sharp halt midmove. Had clipped a runner into the rope loop on my harness rather than the rope - oops. Almost lost it but managed to unclip and continue to jugs. Phew. A great route and great way to finish the first of hopefully many trips to Pembroke!
gforce - Lead - 08/Aug/08 with Jason

morganator - 2nd rpt - 13/Jul/08 with Rich Cross

feilx - Lead O/S - 14/Jun/08 with Heather

Starting to become a curse this route! Again started up the arete before getting sweated off the route by the intense heat and greasy holds... Need a new project...
Chad123 - Lead dnf - 05/May/08 with Sam

Hidden - Lead - 2008

THE best route i have ever done, despite the epic of no chalk, 1 half rope and going off line. Perfect sustained 5b/c from leaving the belay ledge until about 5 metres form the top. 4* must-do.
Alex Mason - Lead O/S - 26/Aug/07 with Thomas Martin

Started up this classic looking line, only for the heavens to open and Humble got hit with a wave on the belay. The 40m prussick out was pretty interesting - next time!
Chad123 - Lead dnf - 06/May/07 with James Humble

Gus - Lead O/S - 06/May/07 with Rob Clifton

Tony Little - 2nd O/S - 06/Apr/07 with Ed Brown

haydng - Lead O/S - 2007 with Rob

Hidden - Lead O/S - 2007

chris j - 2nd O/S - 02/Jul/06 with Ben Bradford

dan gibson - Lead O/S - 02/Jul/06 with martina

Hidden - Lead O/S - 14/May/06

bronsonite - Lead O/S - 01/May/06 with Alex Cannon

via old start.
Paz - Lead O/S - 30/Apr/06 with AR2

Hidden - Lead rpt - Apr/06

Bern - 2006

Hidden - Lead O/S - 29/May/04

buzby78 - Lead - 05/May/02

Adam Lincoln - Lead - 2002

Tim M - Lead O/S - 2000

Hidden - Lead O/S - 29/May/99

Hidden - Lead O/S - 02/May/99

Si Clapham - 2nd - 1998 with Andy Long

Hidden - Lead rpt - 27/Jul/97

Hidden - Lead - 19/Apr/97

sadams - Lead O/S - 30/Mar/97 with John Boyle

Roget - Lead O/S - 24/Jun/95 with jon

jfletcher - Lead O/S - 30/Apr/94

Hidden - 2nd - 26/Sep/92

whispering nic - Lead O/S - May/92 with Blaggy

PaulTanton - Lead O/S - Apr/92 with Jon Evans

First E4...I think?
Rich Kirby - Lead O/S - 30/Mar/91 with Andy Mackay/Dave Taylor/Ian/PaulTanton

David's 1st E4 lead.
Dave Musgrove - 2nd - 29/Mar/91 with David

fantastic
Dave Musgrove Jnr - Lead O/S - 29/Mar/91 with Dad

Billg - Lead O/S - 31/Jul/90 with Jon Barton

Dave Rumney - Lead - Jul/90

Hidden - 2nd - 1989

andy gittins - 1988

shark - Lead O/S - 16/Apr/85 with Richard O Mara

steve L - Lead O/S - 16/Jul/83 with Mike Price

Mike Owen - 02/May/83 with Al Simpson

Mark Kemball - Lead - 26/Apr/83 with Dave Kenyon

Hidden - Lead - 09/Apr/83

Hidden - Lead O/S - 1983

Hidden - 2nd - 02/May/81

Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
mike mo, fabricio, Ramon Marin, Lilifa, spidermonkey09, Adam Booth, AndrewJamesCherry, i.fish2000, Andrew Wilson, Hidden, Hidden, jimmyjinxter, Hidden, Hidden, leon, Hidden, Hidden, Hidden, joese7en, JamieSparkes, wi11, Hidden, Chad123, tgeh, UnkArl, Hidden, givemetea, Hidden, Hidden, Hidden, Hidden, Hidden, Hidden, Hidden, Hidden, Hidden, Hidden, Hidden, drcorbasisgod, Dan Lane, fennerz, Hidden, lukea, waltersp, Owen W-G, Barra, Hidden, a_radiohead_fan, Kyuzo, Hidden

Voting
Total votes cast 141
hard E50 of 48
E50 of 48
easy E50 of 48
hard E40 of 48
E424 of 48
easy E415 of 48
hard E39 of 48
E30 of 48
easy E30 of 48
hard 6a0 of 47
6a0 of 47
easy 6a0 of 47
hard 5c2 of 47
5c44 of 47
easy 5c1 of 47
hard 5b0 of 47
5b0 of 47
easy 5b0 of 47
3 Stars44 of 46
2 Stars1 of 46
1 Star1 of 46
0 Stars0 of 46
Bag of .....0 of 46
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Style of ascent

Soloed1 of 129 (0.8%)
Lead83 of 129 (64.3%)
Followed39 of 129 (30.2%)
Unknown6 of 129 (4.7%)

'Climbed'27 of 129 (20.9%)
clean O/S88 of 129 (68.2%)
clean rpt10 of 129 (7.8%)
dogged2 of 129 (1.6%)
dnf2 of 129 (1.6%)