Rockfax Description
A magnificent and elegant climb. There is a lot more gear than the grade suggests and although there are hardly any easy moves, there are no desperate ones either. Start from the ledge at the foot of the corner. The original start followed the corner for 3m then traversed right to the arete but it is better to climb up the blunt arete from the right-hand end of the belay ledge. Continue to the mid-height break and the base of a long straight crack. Move right to a narrow groove then trend up and rightwards on improving holds to another break. Move right again and finish up a groove with an increasing sense of elation - beautiful! © Rockfax

B Wintringham 29/Jun/1980

Ticklists: Pembroke Rockfax Top 50, Great Wall Climbs of the UK, Very good routes in the UK, 100 best limestone climbs in Britain, UK Lonely Leads, Ultimate E4 ticklist.

poeter210 19/Sep 2nd dog
with argentinian machine
spidermonkey09 19/Sep Lead O/S

Really proud of this, one of the best routes I've ever done. Actually loads of gear but probably only 60% of it trustworthy. No hard moves but very few good relaxing rests either. An emotional lead, felt knackered at the top!

Ella7 19/Sep 2nd dog

Amazing! Did all the moves on second and rested for getting out gear.

Russell Birkett 05/Sep Lead O/S

If you come to Pembroke and can lead E3/4 you have to do this. Outstanding route.

with Tim Whitaker
Joughton 07/Aug Lead O/S
Hidden 01/Aug Lead O/S
tash 01/Aug 2nd

Best route ever? Lovely climbing above the sea!!! Amazing.

with ali k
NDD 19/Jul Lead O/S
with Mcmanus
Mark Grist 25/May Lead O/S

Very pleased with this route. For me the start was the hardest part. Just a little run out and one move that could have consequences if you muff it before the gear. After that the gear and holds kept coming. Fantastic route.

with Paul Tanton
PaulTanton 25/May 2nd rpt

Well done Mark

pearson9596 16/May Lead O/S
ian d f 16/May 2nd O/S
Tom Livingstone 09/Apr 2nd rpt
with Oli Grounsell
Hidden 05/Apr Lead O/S
Hidden 05/Apr 2nd rpt
HAJ Francis 05/Apr Lead O/S
WB 04/Apr Lead O/S

Amazing route. One of the best I have ever done.

with Anna
Sarah Black 20/Sep/14 Lead O/S

Brilliant. Just brilliant.

Duncan Campbell 17/Aug/14 Lead O/S

Mentally taxing. Always been wary as a good friend of mine backed off this when he was on form, but consoled myself that it is supposed to be soft, so maybe buggered myself. Found getting the kit in quite pumpy/shoulder strenuous, to often find nothing would go in. Brilliant, brilliant climbing though. Every move is 5b or 5c but it is still in the lower half of the E4 grade.

with GuyVG
GuyVG 17/Aug/14 2nd O/S

had wanted to lead but proved too difficult to strip, ah well, a pleasure to second a steady lead from Dunc. Scary.

tim newton 14/Aug/14 2nd rpt
Rachel Slater 14/Aug/14 Lead O/S

Found this pretty scary... didn't feel like easy E4.

Tom Livingstone 21/Apr/14 Lead O/S
Adam Booth 20/Apr/14 Lead rpt

Super classic, absolutely brilliant climbing all the way.

Ed Booth 20/Apr/14 2nd rpt
Misha 18/Apr/14 Lead O/S
anguskille 18/Apr/14 Lead O/S

Stunning stuff, would happily do it again and again I think

tim newton 18/Apr/14 2nd O/S
shed_hed 18/Apr/14 Lead O/S

Awesome route! Nice easy E4 tick if you're happy face climbing. None of the moves are hard and there is plenty of gear, it's just a bit fiddly and never amazing.

Hidden 18/Apr/14 Lead O/S
dswansonlow 18/Apr/14 2nd rpt
fennerz 18/Apr/14 2nd O/S
with Angus Kille
Julian Cooper 15/Apr/14 Lead O/S
with Stuart Knott
Hidden 13/Apr/14 Lead
Tubs 12/Apr/14 2nd O/S
with Dave M
phil64 ?/Apr/14 2nd rpt

great route

with tom livingstone
mike mo ??/2014 -
pie_eater_pete 09/Sep/13 Lead O/S
with bwestwood
bwestwood ?/Sep/13 2nd
Andrew Wilson 29/Aug/13 2nd O/S
cooperman 07/Jul/13 Lead dog

1 rest on last gear before final hard move. Missed crucial right foot hold which made the move much easier once found. Lots of 5c, poor rests until 2/3 of way up

with Greg Foster
dominic lee 30/Jun/13 Lead O/S
with andy elliot
markalmack 06/May/13 2nd rpt

Followed gwen to get confidence for Luke Skywalker. Forgot how good this route was. Such good moves all the way. One of the best!

with gwen
Hidden 05/May/13 Lead O/S
mark20 20/Apr/13 Lead O/S

well grease

ejected ??/2013 Lead O/S
dav 30/Aug/12 Lead O/S
with Gill B
Ed morris 26/Aug/12 Lead O/S

Such an incredible route, if you aren't expecting lots of gear you will be pleasantly surprised!

with Adam Bevan
dswansonlow 14/Aug/12 Lead O/S
jacobjlloyd 14/Aug/12 2nd rpt
with Dougie
Hidden 11/Aug/12 Lead O/S
robin_hackney 11/Aug/12 2nd O/S
with Si
Billg 28/Jul/12 Lead O/S

alzheimers on site. Bolder than I remember

with Bob Brewer
burto 28/Jul/12 Lead O/S
with hertha
mountain.martin 01/Jul/12 2nd O/S

Magnificent, a fair bit easier to 2nd than lead I would imagine, as some gear must be a bit tricky to place and some hard moves are a bit above (mainly good) placements.

Hidden 04/Jun/12 Lead O/S
belay bunny turned bad 04/Jun/12 2nd O/S
with loundsy
richardr 13/May/12 Lead O/S

Bold start!

chris wyatt 13/May/12 2nd O/S


with rich
Hidden 06/May/12 Lead O/S
Chi Cheng 06/May/12 Lead O/S

Went off route on to Luke Skywalker. Fell 10m trying to down climb.

andrew sandercock 08/Apr/12 2nd O/S

Really want to come back and lead this at some point. Route of the trip, even on second!

with Mark A
markalmack 08/Apr/12 Lead O/S

Easier than pleasure dome!!! 1 "move" above poor gear, but all the rest above sinker gear. pure class route.

Hidden 07/Apr/12 Lead O/S
bigie bob 07/Apr/12 2nd O/S
sam820 06/Apr/12 2nd
with Murdoch
Hidden 28/Aug/11 Lead O/S
Hidden 17/Aug/11 Lead O/S
thomasadixon 02/Aug/11 Lead O/S


with Mike
feilx 03/Jul/11 2nd rpt
with Andy L
quiffhanger 03/Jul/11 Lead O/S
HamishD 02/Jul/11 Lead O/S
with Wil Treasure
drysori 02/Jul/11 2nd
with hamdunn
dannyboy83 02/Jul/11 2nd O/S
with Jake
jacobjlloyd 02/Jul/11 Lead O/S
pipof747 26/Jun/11 Lead O/S
GrantB 27/Apr/11 2nd O/S
with Robertson
Hidden 27/Apr/11 Lead
Luke Brooks 26/Apr/11 2nd
with John Orr
Hidden 26/Apr/11 Lead O/S
Hidden 26/Apr/11 2nd
Hidden 17/Apr/11 Lead O/S
Hidden 02/Apr/11 2nd
phil64 ??/2011 -
mwatson ??/2011 -

good route but a bit dissapointing, possibly able to lank past some of the moves making it less sustained

Ed Babs 26/Sep/10 Lead O/S
with Harry
datoon 30/Aug/10 Lead O/S
with K
ian caton 28/Aug/10 Lead O/S

laced it! got to get e4 because it's a relatively serious situation, in comparison say to st. govans.

with Abi
Mike Goldthorp 23/Aug/10 Lead O/S

Wonderful climbing! Real steady, not a pumper, but awkward to find gear, so ended up just running it out quite a bit. Would be a wicked DWS!

Hidden 15/Aug/10 2nd O/S
morganator 14/Aug/10 Lead O/S

Fell off on Luke Skywalker, so traversed off.

with Andy Benson
soph ?/Aug/10 Lead O/S
with Dan McManus
billb ?/Aug/10 Lead O/S
Hidden ?/Jul/10 2nd O/S
Hidden 01/May/10 Solo O/S
Hidden 01/May/10 2nd O/S
Pown 09/Apr/10 2nd O/S
JulesV ??/2010 Lead O/S
Hidden 21/Aug/09 2nd O/S
Hidden 18/Aug/09 Lead O/S
mattyork2 20/Jun/09 Lead O/S
with Tim Jepson
Hidden 25/May/09 Lead O/S
climbingpixie 25/May/09 2nd dog

Awesome. One to go back and lead when I'm a bit fitter.

with Andy Hobson
Ed Booth 14/Sep/08 Lead O/S

this pitch is amazing. A real MUST DO. Probably one of my favorite pitches ever!!!

Adam Booth 14/Sep/08 2nd O/S
gforce 08/Aug/08 Lead

A moment of panic when I embarked on some hard moves to come to a sharp halt midmove. Had clipped a runner into the rope loop on my harness rather than the rope - oops. Almost lost it but managed to unclip and continue to jugs. Phew. A great route and great way to finish the first of hopefully many trips to Pembroke!

with Jason
morganator 13/Jul/08 2nd rpt
with Rich Cross
feilx 14/Jun/08 Lead O/S
with Heather
Chad123 05/May/08 Lead dnf

Starting to become a curse this route! Again started up the arete before getting sweated off the route by the intense heat and greasy holds... Need a new project...

with Sam
Hidden ??/2008 Lead
Alex Mason 26/Aug/07 Lead O/S

THE best route i have ever done, despite the epic of no chalk, 1 half rope and going off line. Perfect sustained 5b/c from leaving the belay ledge until about 5 metres form the top. 4* must-do.

Chad123 06/May/07 Lead dnf

Started up this classic looking line, only for the heavens to open and Humble got hit with a wave on the belay. The 40m prussick out was pretty interesting - next time!

with James Humble
Gus 06/May/07 Lead O/S
with Rob Clifton
Tony Little 06/Apr/07 2nd O/S
with Ed Brown
haydng ??/2007 Lead O/S
with Rob
Hidden ??/2007 Lead O/S
chris j 02/Jul/06 2nd O/S
with Ben Bradford
dan gibson 02/Jul/06 Lead O/S
with martina
Adam Ellwood 14/May/06 Lead O/S
with Dave Parton
bronsonite 01/May/06 Lead O/S
with Alex Cannon
Paz 30/Apr/06 Lead O/S

via old start.

with AR2
LC ?/Apr/06 Lead rpt
Bern ??/2006 -
Kev Little ??/2006 Lead O/S
Hidden 29/May/04 Lead O/S
buzby78 05/May/02 Lead
Adam Lincoln ??/2002 Lead
Tim M ??/2000 Lead O/S
Hidden 29/May/99 Lead O/S
Hidden 02/May/99 Lead O/S
Si Clapham ??/1998 2nd
with Andy Long
DavidBarraclough ??/1998 Lead O/S
Hidden 27/Jul/97 Lead rpt
Hidden 19/Apr/97 Lead
sadams 30/Mar/97 Lead O/S
with John Boyle
FATBOYFAT ??/1997 2nd O/S
Steve Crowe 01/Sep/96 2nd O/S
with KM
Gregory ?/Jul/95 Lead
with nigel birtwell
Roget 24/Jun/95 Lead O/S
with jon
jfletcher 30/Apr/94 Lead O/S
Hidden 26/Sep/92 2nd
whispering nic ?/May/92 Lead O/S
with Blaggy
PaulTanton ?/Apr/92 Lead O/S
with Jon Evans
Rich Kirby 30/Mar/91 Lead O/S

First E4...I think?

with Andy Mackay/Dave Taylor/Ian/PaulTanton
Dave Musgrove 29/Mar/91 2nd

David's 1st E4 lead.

with David
Dave Musgrove Jnr 29/Mar/91 Lead O/S


with Dad
Billg 31/Jul/90 Lead O/S
with Jon Barton
Dave Rumney ?/Jul/90 Lead
Hidden ??/1990 -
Hidden ??/1989 2nd
andy gittins ??/1988 -
shark 16/Apr/85 Lead O/S
with Richard O Mara
steve L 16/Jul/83 Lead O/S
with Mike Price
Mike Owen 02/May/83 -
with Al Simpson
Mark Kemball 26/Apr/83 Lead
with Dave Kenyon
Hidden 09/Apr/83 Lead
Hidden ??/1983 Lead O/S
Hidden 02/May/81 2nd
Chris Craggs ??/1980 Lead
Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
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High E5
Mid E5
Low E5
High E4
Mid E4
Low E4
High E3
Mid E3
Low E3
Votes cast 54
High 6a
Mid 6a
Low 6a
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
Votes cast 53
Votes cast 49
Style of ascent
Not Set
Not Set