30m, 2 pitches.

Rockfax Description
This breath-taking traverse follows the lower line below the main roof. The climbing is never very difficult and the positions are amazing. Start from the belay ledge at the end of the first pitch of Galactic Co-ordinator, reached by either doing this pitch or by scrambling easily down from the top.
1) 4c, 15m. Swing around the arete onto the main face and follow the break below the roof to a wild stance on an arete.
2) 5a, 15m. Continue traversing along the break, past the crack of Deep Throat, to a large ledge. Scramble off easily. © Rockfax

FA. C.Heard, S.Lewis 17.6.79 17/Jun/1979

Ticklists: HVS Adventures, Ultimate HVS ticklist.

DubyaJamesDubya 11/Oct AltLd O/S

Amazing climb. Great positions and sustained.

with Joe Harris
poeter210 06/Sep AltLd O/S

Gripping! Hard very stressful!

druss 06/Sep AltLd O/S

Harder than expected and very glad didn't do it last year. Excellent hands on steep rock with a couple of rest positions. Spectacular belay! Crux is superb and requires commitment.

Will Mortimer 16/Aug Lead O/S

Lead P1

s.thursz 16/Aug 2nd
gurumed 28/Sep/14 AltLd O/S

Lead the first pitch. Excellent route.

with gjd
gjd 28/Sep/14 AltLd O/S

led p 2.

with Gurumed
Lessworkmoreclimbing 26/Aug/14 AltLd O/S

Peak Climbing Club outing on rough sea day. Memorable!

with Kev
Graeme Hammond 26/Aug/14 Lead O/S

Not very epic except maybe for steve... easy jugs and jams. Excellent fun.

stevelismore 26/Aug/14 2nd dog

God this climb was hard work-scarecely any footholds, and wet too. Nearly got it clean but hand slipped on wet rock and I fell off just before the belay.

Hidden 23/Aug/14 Lead O/S
Ed morris 22/Feb/14 AltLd O/S


with Henry
Hidden ??/2014 -
Hidden 25/Aug/13 Lead O/S
Rob84 18/Aug/13 AltLd O/S
with Rob Adie
nickstephens 12/Aug/13 AltLd O/S
gg4419 12/Aug/13 AltLd rpt

Not technically a whole repeat as we never made it all the way round last year, this time we did and it was fantastic as expected, great exposure for HVS, top route well worthy of three stars. No bird poo post nesting season for those wondering.

papashango 04/May/13 AltLd
Anthony Dixon 04/May/13 AltLd
with Connor
adie84 ??/2013 -
nickstephens 15/Sep/12 AltLd dnf

Where is the "had an epic" in the style option? Waited to see if rain would clear, still went for it although lateish, wrong belay, damp holds, etc. Great route :-)

gg4419 15/Sep/12 AltLd dnf
with Nick
Kirill 25/Aug/12 AltLd O/S

Led P2. Better than Heart of Darkness!

cem 25/Aug/12 AltLd O/S

Led p1 but didn't belay in the right place so Kirill got a longer second pitch

Hidden 11/Aug/12 AltLd O/S
Hidden 11/Aug/12 Lead dnf
Hidden 09/Aug/12 AltLd
soph 28/Jul/12 AltLd
with Annelies Sarrazyn
haydng 27/May/12 AltLd O/S

Great exposure and pump under the massive overhang!

with Dave
Kevster 08/Apr/12 Lead O/S

Prone to seepage. Exciting!

Compo 08/Apr/12 2nd O/S
with Kev Faux
CRiddiford 10/Mar/12 AltLd dnf

Not one to do on a wet/misty day or maybe just not until summer, given the seepage over half of it...when it starts greasy, remember to turn back before you're half way and being dripped on!!

with Chris
chrism225 10/Mar/12 AltLd dnf

So wet, but so fun, and so glad to get off of it! :)

Hidden ??/2012 -
Hidden 29/Aug/11 Lead O/S
Hidden 29/Aug/11 2nd O/S
Hidden 22/Aug/11 AltLd O/S
Hidden 22/Aug/11 AltLd O/S
Owen W-G 19/Aug/11 AltLd O/S

Led P2. Steep and intimidating for the grade with lots of guanno infested jugs. Harder than Heart of Darkness.

with Jim
Hidden 19/Aug/11 AltLd
Oliver Sherman 30/Jul/11 AltLd dog

Took a factor 2 fall onto an inproptu belay after much faffage and an attempt on a day when the rock was wet. Apparently the route is a bit epic prone, I think I can see why!

with John Eales
Rowan Mitchell 10/Apr/11 2nd O/S

P1 Alan, P2 Alan. After the first pitch we were both beasted and looking for an easy escape. Preferring the less pumpy crack, Alan climbed (with aiding) part of the second pitch of Deep Throat then found an easy hand traverse off to the right. A fully outrageous climb!

Alan100 ??/2011 -

There's no way this is the same grade as Riders! Had to rest on gear after finding a damp hold on the first pitch. Decided I was too pumped to do the second traverse pitch so tried to go up the crack instead. Ethics were swiftly abandoned in favour of pulling on gear and swearing a lot. Eventually got past the first overhang and escaped out right. Despite feeling thoroughly sandbagged I had great time and it's a brilliant route. Reckon it's E1 though where the 'E' stands for Epic!

PAJames ??/2011 -
jon_gill1 28/Aug/10 AltLd dnf

john led the first pitch and i tried the second!after get pumped out a 3rd of the way along the traverse i decided to rest on the gear knowing that it wasnt great.5 mins went by and the the cam popped sending me down into the E3 below.battered and shocked im climbed back up and escaped by leading the first pitch in reverse!amazing positions!need more strength and more balls!I WILL RETURN!

JWB 28/Aug/10 Lead O/S

What a position and the belay is just wild. Only pitch one climbed though. Jon tried pitch 2 and could not commit so he had to lead back along pitch 1.

Hidden 27/Aug/10 AltLd
Hidden 01/Aug/10 Lead O/S
Hidden ?/Aug/10 Solo O/S
Hidden ?/Jul/10 AltLd
Hidden ?/Mar/10 -
Hidden ?/Mar/10 -
Hidden ??/2010 Lead O/S
Hidden ??/2010 AltLd
spacey 05/Sep/09 AltLd O/S
matt.woodfield 29/Aug/09 Lead
steve.warrington 29/Aug/09 2nd O/S
with Stuart Llewellyn, Matt Woodfiled
david morse 17/Aug/09 Lead rpt
with General
Fat Tim 17/Aug/09 AltLd dog

I led the first pitch clean, mark did the rest as one pitch, I fell and took a swing, leaving my self a little bruised and off route. Some prussiking occured.

with Mark kauntz
Hidden ??/2009 Lead O/S
Paul Bowen 28/Sep/08 AltLd O/S

2nd pitch. super exposed and exciting

Hidden 28/Sep/08 AltLd
just one more 20/Sep/08 Lead O/S


with tim b
morganator 23/Aug/08 AltLd O/S
with Neil McAdie
Hidden 16/Aug/08 AltLd O/S
greenclimb 16/Aug/08 Lead O/S
with Sarah
Hidden 15/Aug/08 AltLd
LC ?/Feb/08 AltLd O/S
david morse ?/Aug/06 Lead dog


with rampant
Boxy ?/Aug/06 Lead O/S
with Mick
Morgan Woods ?/Aug/05 Lead dog

Lead the second pitch....definitely felt harder than 5a but it was my first trad climb in the UK. Some wild moves on the traverse 100ft above the waves....even a funky old (thank God) fixed friend i slumped on to to belay once vocal contact became impossible (so done in 3 pitches).

with James Clarke
alex_th 24/Jan/04 AltLd O/S
with Tim Riley
shoulders 24/Mar/02 AltLd O/S
with dai
Billg 15/Sep/01 Lead O/S
with Megan Beaumont
Hidden 26/Aug/01 AltLd
Hidden ??/2000 Lead
NeilGriffiths 16/Aug/97 Lead O/S
with Neil Nussey
Hidden ??/1996 -
Hidden 05/May/91 2nd
Hidden ??/1990 -
Hidden 06/Aug/88 Lead
steve taylor ?/May/88 Lead
with Dave Gilkes
Mike Owen 16/Aug/85 -
with Ian Carr
Hidden 07/Jun/81 -
steve L 17/Jun/79 Lead O/S
with Charlie
Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
DanChad, JonmapDL, Nevil, druss, hutchay, simon pape, Big Lee, Lilifa, Hidden, Hidden, Hidden, Hidden, Dervey, Ropeboy, Hidden, Michael Hood, Alan100, stvredmond, johnpr, Sankey, Cardi, Ceridwen, sara n, Hidden
High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
High HVS
High VS
Mid VS
Low VS
Votes cast 27
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
High 4c
Mid 4c
Low 4c
Votes cast 27
Votes cast 25
Style of ascent
Alt Leads
Not Set
Not Set