Pigs on the Wing** HVS 5a
[looking down from the hanging belay stance, 4 kb]30m, 2 pitches. This breath-taking traverse follows the lower line below the main roof. The climbing is never very difficult and the positions are amazing. Start from the belay ledge at the end of the first pitch of Galactic Co-ordinator, reached by either doing this pitch or by scrambling easily down from the top. 1) 4c, 15m. Swing around the arete onto the main face and follow the break below the roof to a wild stance on an arete. 2) 5a, 15m. Continue traversing along the break, past the crack of Deep Throat, to a large ledge. Scramble off easily. © ROCKFAX
FA. C.Heard, S.Lewis 17.6.79 17/Jun/1979

Ticklists: HVS Adventures, Ultimate HVS ticklist.

Photo: looking down from the hanging belay stance © jon_gill1
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PUBLIC LOGBOOKS
This climb is in 80 logbooks, and on 24 wishlists.

Lead the first pitch. Excellent route.
gurumed - AltLd O/S - 28/Sep/14 with gjd

led p 2.
gjd - AltLd O/S - 28/Sep/14 with Gurumed

Peak Climbing Club outing on rough sea day. Memorable!
Lessworkmoreclimbing - AltLd O/S - 26/Aug/14 with Kev

Not very epic except maybe for steve... easy jugs and jams. Excellent fun.
Graeme Hammond - Lead O/S - 26/Aug/14 with steve lismore

God this climb was hard work-scarecely any footholds, and wet too. Nearly got it clean but hand slipped on wet rock and I fell off just before the belay.
stevelismore - 2nd dog - 26/Aug/14 with Graeme Hammond

Hidden - Lead O/S - 23/Aug/14

P1.
Ed morris - AltLd O/S - 22/Feb/14 with Henry

Hidden - 2014

Hidden - Lead O/S - 25/Aug/13

Rob84 - AltLd O/S - 18/Aug/13 with Rob Adie

nickstephens - AltLd O/S - 12/Aug/13 with Gareth Greeves

Not technically a whole repeat as we never made it all the way round last year, this time we did and it was fantastic as expected, great exposure for HVS, top route well worthy of three stars. No bird poo post nesting season for those wondering.
gg4419 - AltLd rpt - 12/Aug/13 with Nick Stephens

papashango - AltLd - 04/May/13 with Major Tony

Anthony Dixon - AltLd - 04/May/13 with Connor

adie84 - 2013

Where is the "had an epic" in the style option? Waited to see if rain would clear, still went for it although lateish, wrong belay, damp holds, etc. Great route :-)
nickstephens - AltLd dnf - 15/Sep/12 with Gareth Greeves

gg4419 - AltLd dnf - 15/Sep/12 with Nick

Led P2. Better than Heart of Darkness!
Kirill - AltLd O/S - 25/Aug/12 with Charles Moreton

Led p1 but didn't belay in the right place so Kirill got a longer second pitch
cem - AltLd O/S - 25/Aug/12 with Kirill Spiridonov

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 11/Aug/12

Hidden - Lead dnf - 11/Aug/12

Hidden - AltLd - 09/Aug/12

soph - AltLd - 28/Jul/12 with Annelies Sarrazyn

Great exposure and pump under the massive overhang!
haydng - AltLd O/S - 27/May/12 with Dave

Prone to seepage. Exciting!
Kevster - Lead O/S - 08/Apr/12

Compo - 2nd O/S - 08/Apr/12 with Kev Faux

Not one to do on a wet/misty day or maybe just not until summer, given the seepage over half of it...when it starts greasy, remember to turn back before you're half way and being dripped on!!
CRiddiford - AltLd dnf - 10/Mar/12 with Chris

So wet, but so fun, and so glad to get off of it! :)
chrism225 - AltLd dnf - 10/Mar/12 with Caroline

Hidden - 2012

Hidden - Lead O/S - 29/Aug/11

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 29/Aug/11

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 22/Aug/11

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 22/Aug/11

Led P2. Steep and intimidating for the grade with lots of guanno infested jugs. Harder than Heart of Darkness.
Owen W-G - AltLd O/S - 19/Aug/11 with Jim

Hidden - AltLd - 19/Aug/11

Took a factor 2 fall onto an inproptu belay after much faffage and an attempt on a day when the rock was wet. Apparently the route is a bit epic prone, I think I can see why!
Oliver Sherman - AltLd dog - 30/Jul/11 with John Eales

P1 Alan, P2 Alan. After the first pitch we were both beasted and looking for an easy escape. Preferring the less pumpy crack, Alan climbed (with aiding) part of the second pitch of Deep Throat then found an easy hand traverse off to the right. A fully outrageous climb!
Rowan Mitchell - 2nd O/S - 10/Apr/11 with Alan Murray

There's no way this is the same grade as Riders! Had to rest on gear after finding a damp hold on the first pitch. Decided I was too pumped to do the second traverse pitch so tried to go up the crack instead. Ethics were swiftly abandoned in favour of pulling on gear and swearing a lot. Eventually got past the first overhang and escaped out right. Despite feeling thoroughly sandbagged I had great time and it's a brilliant route. Reckon it's E1 though where the 'E' stands for Epic!
Alan100 - 2011

PAJames - 2011

john led the first pitch and i tried the second!after get pumped out a 3rd of the way along the traverse i decided to rest on the gear knowing that it wasnt great.5 mins went by and the the cam popped sending me down into the E3 below.battered and shocked im climbed back up and escaped by leading the first pitch in reverse!amazing positions!need more strength and more balls!I WILL RETURN!
jon_gill1 - AltLd dnf - 28/Aug/10 with john beardmore

What a position and the belay is just wild. Only pitch one climbed though. Jon tried pitch 2 and could not commit so he had to lead back along pitch 1.
JWB - Lead O/S - 28/Aug/10 with Jon Gill

Hidden - AltLd - 27/Aug/10

Hidden - Lead O/S - 01/Aug/10

Hidden - Solo O/S - Aug/10

Hidden - AltLd - Jul/10

Hidden - Mar/10

Hidden - Mar/10

Hidden - Lead O/S - 2010

Hidden - AltLd - 2010

spacey - AltLd O/S - 05/Sep/09 with paul evans

matt.woodfield - Lead - 29/Aug/09

steve.warrington - 2nd O/S - 29/Aug/09 with Stuart Llewellyn, Matt Woodfiled

david morse - Lead rpt - 17/Aug/09 with General

I led the first pitch clean, mark did the rest as one pitch, I fell and took a swing, leaving my self a little bruised and off route. Some prussiking occured.
Fat Tim - AltLd dog - 17/Aug/09 with Mark kauntz

Hidden - Lead O/S - 2009

2nd pitch. super exposed and exciting
Paul Bowen - AltLd O/S - 28/Sep/08 with Rebecca Hayes

Hidden - AltLd - 28/Sep/08

Brilliant!
just one more - Lead O/S - 20/Sep/08 with tim b

morganator - AltLd O/S - 23/Aug/08 with Neil McAdie

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 16/Aug/08

greenclimb - Lead O/S - 16/Aug/08 with Sarah

Hidden - AltLd - 15/Aug/08

Hidden - AltLd O/S - Feb/08

fantastic!
david morse - Lead dog - Aug/06 with rampant

Boxy - Lead O/S - Aug/06 with Mick

Lead the second pitch....definitely felt harder than 5a but it was my first trad climb in the UK. Some wild moves on the traverse 100ft above the waves....even a funky old (thank God) fixed friend i slumped on to to belay once vocal contact became impossible (so done in 3 pitches).
Morgan Woods - Lead dog - Aug/05 with James Clarke

alex_th - AltLd O/S - 24/Jan/04 with Tim Riley

shoulders - AltLd O/S - 24/Mar/02 with dai

Billg - Lead O/S - 15/Sep/01 with Megan Beaumont

Hidden - AltLd - 26/Aug/01

Hidden - Lead - 2000

NeilGriffiths - Lead O/S - 16/Aug/97 with Neil Nussey

Hidden - 1996

ChrisJD - 2nd - 05/May/91

Paul Clarke - 1990 with LUMC

ChrisJD - Lead - 06/Aug/88

steve taylor - Lead - May/88 with Dave Gilkes

Mike Owen - 16/Aug/85 with Ian Carr

Hidden - 07/Jun/81

steve L - Lead O/S - 17/Jun/79 with Charlie

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Voting
Total votes cast 68
hard E10 of 23
E10 of 23
easy E17 of 23
hard HVS10 of 23
HVS6 of 23
easy HVS0 of 23
hard VS0 of 23
VS0 of 23
easy VS0 of 23
hard 5b0 of 23
5b0 of 23
easy 5b0 of 23
hard 5a4 of 23
5a19 of 23
easy 5a0 of 23
hard 4c0 of 23
4c0 of 23
easy 4c0 of 23
3 Stars22 of 22
2 Stars0 of 22
1 Star0 of 22
0 Stars0 of 22
Bag of .....0 of 22
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