35m, 2 pitches.

Rockfax Description
An amazing climb which takes a wild line up the seaward end of the wall. The conditions of this route seem to vary from slippery and unclimbable to surprisingly dry. Take a lot of small wires.
1) 6a, 25m. Climb the ramp then step down and traverse left with difficulty. Move up the ramp above into a runnel and squirm up this to a tricky exit. Belay on a big thread in the groove above.
2) 5c, 10m. Undercut wildly rightwards around the roof, then step back left and look down at your second. Finish straight up to a big natural thread on the right. © Rockfax

FA. P.Littlejohn, T.Penning 15.4.84 15/Apr/1984

Ticklists: Pembroke Rockfax Top 50, Rob Greenwood's Top 5 E5 Routes in the UK, Caff's 100 Ace E5s, Caff's 100 Best E5's, Ultimate E5 ticklist.

thomb 11/Oct 2nd
colesy 10/Oct Lead O/S

Great route, very funky climbing.

Hidden 27/Sep Lead O/S
NDD 19/Jul Lead O/S
with Mcmanus
Gus 18/Jul AltLd
with Harold
brunomarks 06/Jun Lead O/S

An experience but not one that I enjoyed. For me much harder than the other E5s I did in the weekend - felt like E6 in comparison - because climbing is all hard to read and insecure, often going away from the gear. Very little that you can just crank your way through (technical "spit you out" chimney squirming at the crux). Has you on edge wondering if you are committing to the right moves all the time. 2nd pitch is thankfully contrastingly burly and straightforward! Climbed as one pitch.

with Neil Lowry
drysori 13/Sep/14 AltLd

Led pitch 2, which was hard enough! Greasy climbing, interesting route finding. A great mini-adventure route.

Hidden 12/Sep/14 2nd O/S
Hidden 22/Jun/14 -
quiffhanger 22/Jun/14 Lead dog

A 4h mega epic. The incoming tide necessitated an impromptu mid-pitch belay & it all went downhill from there. Sooooooo slippy. Saved by Conor's terror-induced crimp strength & a smart decision to re-arrange the belay such that my 8m gear-ripping-whipper off the crux wasn't a Factor 2.

with Conor
Misha 18/Apr/14 AltLd O/S
Adam Booth 18/Apr/14 AltLd O/S

Shat myself on this. Greasy as sin. And tricky climbing I thought, certainly unconventional. Seconded the first pitch, thank goodness!

Ed Booth 18/Apr/14 AltLd O/S

Led pitch 1. Fun route.

tim newton 18/Apr/14 AltLd O/S

Lead pitch 1. One of the most varied and brilliant trad routes I've done.

Rob Greenwood - UKClimbing ??/2014 Lead O/S
with Sam Underhill
steve_yo 26/Aug/13 Lead dnf


dan gibson 08/Jun/13 AltLd O/S

Funky trad!!! Wild 1st pitch, insecure chimney contortions!

with alice thompson
Alice Thompson 08/Jun/13 AltLd O/S

Lead 2nd pitch. Not as tasty as the first, but still a little tricky

Alex Mason 15/Jul/12 AltLd rpt

Led top pitch. went through the hole. Don't know why the fuck I did that. One of the grimest 20 mins ever.

with George Ullrich
Billg 03/Jul/11 Lead O/S

superb, but no belay stake! - where can I make a donation??

with Will Calvert
feilx 03/Jul/11 Lead O/S
with Andy L
valecoastclimber 01/May/11 Lead O/S
Ged Desforges ??/2011 -

Stunning. Well protected but feels quite comitting. One of the best adventure routes I've done.

Alex Mason 24/Aug/10 Lead O/S

Amazing, amazing route. Crazy climbing up the runnels, moves are interesting and gear is perfectly sufficient. Tricky to read on all the hard sections. Just soooo good! Best route in Pembroke. Taking lots of rock 1's isnt necessary but, do save one for that perfect slot.

with Laura Perry, Mikey G
Mike Goldthorp 24/Aug/10 AltLd O/S

2nd easy pitch. First pitch is just magnificent!! Most memorable climb in the Leap, even to 2nd. The funky drop-down crux is cool, and then the massive runnel feature gives brilliant 3D climbing. So jealous Al got to lead it, bastardo!

morganator 14/Aug/10 Lead O/S
with Andy Benson
soph ?/Aug/10 AltLd O/S
with Dan McManus
Justin T 26/Jun/10 2nd dog
Toby Dunn 25/Aug/09 Lead O/S
with JulesV
Hidden ?/Aug/07 -
Tom Briggs - Jagged Globe ??/2005 AltLd O/S

Led 1st pitch.

with Steve Adams
Dave Musgrove Jnr ?/Aug/03 AltLd O/S
sadams 28/Aug/00 AltLd
with Tom Briggs
Tim M ??/2000 2nd
sadams 29/Aug/98 Lead O/S
with Pete Bukowski
Steve Crowe 31/Aug/96 Lead O/S

Fantastic and memorable.

with KM
Hidden 28/Aug/94 Lead O/S
Alan James - UKC and UKH 29/May/94 Lead
with Tim Seabourne
keefe 31/Jul/93 AltLd O/S
Gary Gibson ?/Jul/87 Lead O/S

With my terrified wife!

Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
Hidden, harry_lewis, anguskille, Hidden, theomoore, Hidden, Ed Booth, Hidden, senusert, Kyuzo, Alex Mason, Hidden
High E6
Mid E6
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High E5
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High E4
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Votes cast 9
High 6b
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High 6a
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High 5c
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Votes cast 9
Votes cast 9
Style of ascent
Alt Leads
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