Darkness at Noon*** E5 6a
[Climbers on The Honey Monster (E2) and Darkness at Noon (E5), 2 kb]35m, 2 pitches.

Rockfax Description
An amazing climb which takes a wild line up the seaward end of the wall. The conditions of this route seem to vary from slippery and unclimbable to surprisingly dry. Take a lot of small wires.
1) 6a, 25m. Climb the ramp then step down and traverse left with difficulty. Move up the ramp above into a runnel and squirm up this to a tricky exit. Belay on a big thread in the groove above.
2) 5c, 10m. Undercut wildly rightwards around the roof, then step back left and look down at your second. Finish straight up to a big natural thread on the right. © ROCKFAX

FA. P.Littlejohn, T.Penning 15.4.84 15/Apr/1984

Ticklists: Pembroke Rockfax Top 50, Rob Greenwood's Top 5 E5 Routes in the UK, Caff's 100 Ace E5s, Caff's 100 Best E5's, Ultimate E5 ticklist.

Photo: Climbers on The Honey Monster (E2) and Darkness at Noon (E5) © Kafoozalem
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This climb is in 38 logbooks, and on 11 wishlists.

Hidden - Lead O/S - 27/Sep/15

NDD - Lead O/S - 19/Jul/15 with Mcmanus

Gus - AltLd - 18/Jul/15 with Harold

An experience but not one that I enjoyed. For me much harder than the other E5s I did in the weekend - felt like E6 in comparison - because climbing is all hard to read and insecure, often going away from the gear. Very little that you can just crank your way through (technical "spit you out" chimney squirming at the crux). Has you on edge wondering if you are committing to the right moves all the time. 2nd pitch is thankfully contrastingly burly and straightforward! Climbed as one pitch.
brunomarks - Lead O/S - 06/Jun/15 with Neil Lowry

Led pitch 2, which was hard enough! Greasy climbing, interesting route finding. A great mini-adventure route.
drysori - AltLd - 13/Sep/14

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 12/Sep/14

Hidden - 22/Jun/14

A 4h mega epic. The incoming tide necessitated an impromptu mid-pitch belay & it all went downhill from there. Sooooooo slippy. Saved by Conor's terror-induced crimp strength & a smart decision to re-arrange the belay such that my 8m gear-ripping-whipper off the crux wasn't a Factor 2.
quiffhanger - Lead dog - 22/Jun/14 with Conor

Misha - AltLd O/S - 18/Apr/14 with Tim Newton

Shat myself on this. Greasy as sin. And tricky climbing I thought, certainly unconventional. Seconded the first pitch, thank goodness!
Adam Booth - AltLd O/S - 18/Apr/14 with Ed Booth

Led pitch 1. Fun route.
Ed Booth - AltLd O/S - 18/Apr/14 with Adam Booth

Lead pitch 1. One of the most varied and brilliant trad routes I've done.
tim newton - AltLd O/S - 18/Apr/14 with misha nepogodiev

Rob Greenwood - UKClimbing - Lead O/S - 2014 with Sam Underhill

steve_yo - Lead dnf - 26/Aug/13 with Rick hard Rock

Funky trad!!! Wild 1st pitch, insecure chimney contortions!
dan gibson - AltLd O/S - 08/Jun/13 with alice thompson

Lead 2nd pitch. Not as tasty as the first, but still a little tricky
Alice Thompson - AltLd O/S - 08/Jun/13 with Dan Gibson

Led top pitch. went through the hole. Don't know why the fuck I did that. One of the grimest 20 mins ever.
Alex Mason - AltLd rpt - 15/Jul/12 with George Ullrich

superb, but no belay stake! - where can I make a donation??
Billg - Lead O/S - 03/Jul/11 with Will Calvert

feilx - Lead O/S - 03/Jul/11 with Andy L

valecoastclimber - Lead O/S - 01/May/11

Stunning. Well protected but feels quite comitting. One of the best adventure routes I've done.
Ged Desforges - 2011

Amazing, amazing route. Crazy climbing up the runnels, moves are interesting and gear is perfectly sufficient. Tricky to read on all the hard sections. Just soooo good! Best route in Pembroke. Taking lots of rock 1's isnt necessary but, do save one for that perfect slot.
Alex Mason - Lead O/S - 24/Aug/10 with Laura Perry, Mikey G

2nd easy pitch. First pitch is just magnificent!! Most memorable climb in the Leap, even to 2nd. The funky drop-down crux is cool, and then the massive runnel feature gives brilliant 3D climbing. So jealous Al got to lead it, bastardo!
Mike Goldthorp - AltLd O/S - 24/Aug/10 with alex mason

morganator - Lead O/S - 14/Aug/10 with Andy Benson

soph - AltLd O/S - Aug/10 with Dan McManus

Justin T - 2nd dog - 26/Jun/10

Toby Dunn - Lead O/S - 25/Aug/09 with JulesV

Hidden - Aug/07

Led 1st pitch.
Tom Briggs - Jagged Globe - AltLd O/S - 2005 with Steve Adams

Dave Musgrove Jnr - AltLd O/S - Aug/03 with Joe le Sage

sadams - AltLd - 28/Aug/00 with Tom Briggs

Tim M - 2nd - 2000

sadams - Lead O/S - 29/Aug/98 with Pete Bukowski

Fantastic and memorable.
Steve Crowe - Lead O/S - 31/Aug/96 with KM

Hidden - Lead O/S - 28/Aug/94

Alan James - UKC and UKH - Lead - 29/May/94 with Tim Seabourne

keefe - AltLd O/S - 31/Jul/93 with Glenn Sutcliffe

With my terrified wife!
Gary Gibson - Lead O/S - Jul/87

Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
harry_lewis, anguskille, theomoore, Ed Booth, senusert, Kyuzo, Alex Mason

Total votes cast 24
hard E60 of 8
E60 of 8
easy E60 of 8
hard E51 of 8
E57 of 8
easy E50 of 8
hard E40 of 8
E40 of 8
easy E40 of 8
hard 6b0 of 8
6b0 of 8
easy 6b0 of 8
hard 6a1 of 8
6a7 of 8
easy 6a0 of 8
hard 5c0 of 8
5c0 of 8
easy 5c0 of 8
3 Stars7 of 8
2 Stars1 of 8
1 Star0 of 8
0 Stars0 of 8
Bag of .....0 of 8
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