Rockfax Description
This magnificent Pembrokeshire classic should have a place on everyone's tick list. Arguments over its grade will continue for ever so consider it hard E3 or easy E4. Start 10m left of the end of the wall. Climb a series of cracks and bulges, with a hard move at 6m, to reach a rest below a big curving overlap. Pull out left and try and get your right hand in a slot which your left hand is in. Climb up and back right to reach the wide finishing flake/groove. © Rockfax

FA. A.Sharpe 15/Jul/1979

Ticklists: Pembroke Rockfax Top 50, Great Wall Climbs of the UK, Good E4s, Trad climbs for sport climbers, Ultimate E4 ticklist, The Best of Pembroke.

Hidden 30/May 2nd
Mike_Hayes 29/May 2nd rpt
Glyn 08/May Lead O/S

Tricky and wet at the start

with Will Oates
Andy Peak 1 01/May 2nd

Loving the leap, good lead from Theo on the very damp start

with Theo
theomoore 30/Apr Lead O/S

Really good. Start was a bit wet but it's pretty much jugs all the way. Pity we had to leave, ready to get on some Pembroke e5s now.

with Mike Cheque, Andy
D.Russell 07/Apr Lead O/S
with Ramon
Ramon Marin 07/Apr 2nd rpt
with Douglas Russell
Twid Turner ??/2016 -
JulesV 26/Sep/15 2nd rpt
with Atkins
khawk 31/Aug/15 Lead O/S
Brian H 16/Aug/15 Lead O/S

E4 seemed about right with the correct, hard start (ie up the wall left of the start of Just Another Day). Brilliant route.

Ed Babs 11/Aug/15 Lead O/S

Cool - eases off a lot after the start.

with AlexD
AlexD 11/Aug/15 2nd dog

Found this a tough one. Slippery reachy start, desperate long move in the middle and some tweaky finger pockets.

with Ed
benkelsey 10/Aug/15 Lead O/S

Greasy crux low down then got much better with mega climbing right to the top. Felt easier than pleasure dome about an hour before.

with Shaun Humphreys
James Marshall 19/Jul/15 Lead O/S

Personally I found this much harder than the other E4's that i've done, but I really enjoyed it once the start was done !

with ollie
Gregory 18/Jul/15 Lead rpt
with rob grant
Chad123 11/Jul/15 Lead rpt

Nearly ten years since I climbed this and still as classic as I remembered, pleased to get the retro-flash. Ideal warm up! Was nice and dry, found the two cruxes pretty easy just found the sustained climbing in between incredibly pumpy, great route!

with JonnoP
JonnoP 11/Jul/15 2nd
with Chad
james.slater 04/Jul/15 2nd O/S

Stunning, felt overwhelmed by the leap but will head back to lead this at some point!

Hidden 04/Jul/15 Lead O/S
w.pettet-smith ?/Jul/15 -

steady. big rest in middle

with ben
Llinos C 21/Jun/15 Lead O/S
with Simon Brice
tobydunford 06/Jun/15 Lead O/S
with Harry Martin
Chris_barr 25/May/15 Lead β

Mega. Had some gear beta at the start.

with Gus
Gus 25/May/15 2nd
with chris barr
NDD 23/May/15 2nd
with tony stone
markalmack 23/May/15 2nd rpt
WB 23/May/15 Lead O/S
Alex Winter 17/May/15 Lead O/S

Enjoyed this a lot, such a brilliant crag. Found three no-hands rests, so didn't find it very pumpy at all. Top crux wasn't nearly as hard as I was anticipating.

pearson9596 17/May/15 Lead O/S
ian d f 17/May/15 2nd O/S
Mark Warnett ?/May/15 Lead O/S

Awesome found great gear all the way great moves, such a satisfying route

with Princess Diana
Sardien 20/Apr/15 2nd dog

Very wet at the lower crux, then awesome moves all the way but it was all a bit much for me. Maybe next year?

drysori 07/Apr/15 2nd
James Oswald 06/Apr/15 Lead G/U

Fell on the crux first time due to a soaking and slopey hold. Did it from the ground second go, tough. I got pretty pumped on the lower section. Ace

with Mike Watson
NDD 06/Apr/15 Lead β
with Michaela
Tom Redmond 04/Apr/15 2nd

never been so pumped on a route before! will come back one day to lead!

with malcolm smith
Gary Gibson ??/2015 -
oliverpcain ??/2015 Lead O/S
with Harriet Ridley
drysori 14/Sep/14 Lead O/S
HAJ Francis ?/Sep/14 Lead O/S
Matt Cooke 23/Aug/14 Lead O/S
with Sam Taylor
Apharri 22/Aug/14 Lead O/S

Wanted to lead this for about 12 years. Finally.

with Dave Wharton
mynyddresident 16/Aug/14 Lead O/S
with KP
tim newton 15/Aug/14 2nd rpt
Rachel Slater 15/Aug/14 Lead O/S

Great route! Thought the reach just after the apparent crux was the actual crux.

JM 27/Jul/14 Lead
JM 27/Jul/14 Lead O/S
with Stevo
Adam Booth 25/Jul/14 Lead rpt
with Olga Murden, Mike Grant
Hidden 06/Jul/14 Lead β
oliver.ghill91 05/Jul/14 Lead β
Hidden 15/Jun/14 Lead O/S
Hidden 15/Jun/14 Lead dog
Coops_13 08/Jun/14 2nd dog

Nice and pumpy

Patrick Hill 08/Jun/14 Lead O/S
with Dan Geh
Dan Geh 08/Jun/14 2nd dog


with Paddy, Ross
Justin T 16/May/14 Lead O/S

Mildly moist. Laced it up but still got unreasonably gripped midway and flung my large wires down the crag. Pretty cool outing!

Hidden 16/May/14 Lead O/S
Jack_F 19/Apr/14 Lead O/S
with Remus
Hidden 19/Apr/14 2nd rpt
anguskille 19/Apr/14 Lead O/S

Fantastic stuff, pumpy for a warm up! A definite 3-star classic

nathanlee 19/Apr/14 Lead O/S

Bit greasy down low in the morning. Mega top section.

with Rob Greenwood
fennerz 19/Apr/14 2nd O/S
with Angus Kille
markalmack 18/Apr/14 Lead O/S
with james marjot
shed_hed 18/Apr/14 2nd rpt

Start still felt tricky, especially as Dougie had filled one of the handholds with gear! Found the rest of the route much easier going than last time.

Wood for Trees 18/Apr/14 Lead β

last in the queue so tide coming in, had to move fast or Dunc would float off. Hardest move was getting off the floor!

Hidden 18/Apr/14 Lead β
dswansonlow 18/Apr/14 Lead O/S
mike mo ??/2014 -
i_a_coops ??/2014 Lead O/S
Rob Greenwood - UKClimbing ??/2014 Lead O/S
with Helena Robinson
metal arms 31/Aug/13 Lead dog

1 rest on the first bit. Was scared and pumped!

shoulders 27/Aug/13 2nd O/S

Climbed with andy and Pete, repeating the climb for the first time since the first ascent in 79. A real privilege on one of the uks finest routes. Awesome.

with andy sharp, pete lewis
sharpie 27/Aug/13 Lead rpt

Cleaned up nice !

with Jon, PL
Adam Booth 25/Aug/13 Lead rpt


tim newton 22/Aug/13 Lead O/S
Tom Livingstone 13/Aug/13 Lead O/S
Hidden 10/Aug/13 Lead β
tom.e 01/Aug/13 Lead O/S
with Charlie Everett
Mark Grist 21/Jul/13 Lead O/S

First proper e4 lead. Felt pretty safe and relatively straightforward. Was tired and elated at the top.

Sam Simpson 21/Jul/13 2nd O/S
asmith37 13/Jul/13 2nd
with Mike Grant
Hidden 13/Jul/13 Lead O/S
brices 13/Jul/13 Lead β

On sash's gear, good fun

Joe Innes 13/Jul/13 2nd
with Sash, Simon Brice
Dave Turnbull, BMC 13/Jul/13 Lead rpt
with Pete the Vet
cooperman 06/Jul/13 Lead O/S

felt worked after following Greg up JAD / STE combo but still found this steady

with Greg Foster
Hidden 04/Jul/13 Lead O/S
dan gibson 04/Jul/13 2nd rpt
with michael porter
dominic lee 29/Jun/13 Lead O/S
with andy elliot
Daniel Heath 16/Jun/13 2nd rpt

Effortless lead from Remus. No mistakes.

with Remus
Hidden 15/Jun/13 Lead O/S
climbingsheep 15/Jun/13 Lead O/S
with Jake Young, Mike Watson
Jake Young 15/Jun/13 2nd O/S
dan gibson 08/Jun/13 2nd rpt
with alice thompson
Pippa 08/Jun/13 Lead dog

Too short to reach the holds on the crux so aided with the tide coming in. Rest felt quite easy and really nice.

Alice Thompson 08/Jun/13 Lead O/S
mountain_jay 08/Jun/13 2nd
Ollie B 02/Jun/13 Lead rpt

Seconded 2yrs ago. Ace route. Really enjoyed the techyness low down.

with D.Campbell
piken 01/Jun/13 Lead O/S


with Andy
Johnny Baker ?/Jun/13 -
with Justin Nicholas
Sarah Black ?/Jun/13 Lead O/S
Tim Rodgers 24/May/13 2nd dog
ASchwirtz 06/May/13 Lead O/S
richardashe 06/May/13 2nd dog
shed_hed 05/May/13 2nd O/S

Wicked route! Start was quite tricky, especially as it was greasy.

with Dan Heath
Daniel Heath 05/May/13 Lead RP

With Darren. The crux section was so greasy. Bit gutted to fall. Pulled the ropes through and lead second go. The climbing is a dream after the greasy start.

Duncan Campbell 01/Apr/13 Lead O/S

Mega chuffed to have done this one as it's been on the hitlist for a while. Found the bottom bit hard and a bit 'wiggy'. Hard to read the wavey rock and it's lack of friction doesn't help either. I found a really hard reachy move into good holds low down. Loved the top though; great, crimpy, technical climbing and no worries about decking! Psyched to get back down onto the west wall. Not a hard E4 but not a softie either IMO, I'd feel really shortchanged at E3 I think.

with Robbie
Rob Greenwood - UKClimbing 01/Apr/13 2nd
Nick Sillem ??/2013 Lead O/S
gregoritos 15/Sep/12 Lead O/S
Ed morris 30/Aug/12 Lead RP

put to bed

with -martin
Ed morris 28/Aug/12 2nd β
with Adam Bevan
robin_hackney 12/Aug/12 2nd O/S

Super pumpy route, with a slimy start to make it interesting.

with Si
Hidden 11/Aug/12 Lead O/S
Joughton 10/Aug/12 Lead O/S

Great route, tough in it's lower section then easing up at the top before an awkward crux. Been on my to do list for a while so pleased to get it done!

Ramon Marin 02/Jun/12 2nd O/S
with ciaran tracey
Ciro 02/Jun/12 Lead RP

took a load of falls on the bottom section, dogging and drying holds, so half the gear was pre-placed on the successful lead

with Ramon
Ramon Marin 26/May/12 Lead O/S
with ciaran tracey
Chi Cheng 06/May/12 2nd O/S

Had to dead point a least 2 moves.

Hidden 05/May/12 Lead O/S
Hidden 08/Apr/12 Lead O/S
bigie bob 08/Apr/12 2nd O/S
Adam Booth 06/Apr/12 Lead dnf

Fell off the bottom, tried going in from the right as it was very wet. Will be back!

sam820 06/Apr/12 2nd
with Murdoch
jfane ??/2012 Lead O/S
Hidden ??/2012 -
dannyboy83 02/Oct/11 Lead rpt
with Sophie
Sophie Nunn 02/Oct/11 2nd dog
with Dan B
Hidden 31/Aug/11 Lead dog
Mike_Hayes 29/Aug/11 Lead O/S

As onsight as it could be considering that I ate my sandwiches whilst queuing for it

datoon 29/Aug/11 -
with K
John Brayshaw 29/Aug/11 2nd dog
with Dan
Hidden 27/Aug/11 Lead dnf
Hidden 23/Aug/11 Lead O/S
Speeddemonsi 20/Aug/11 Lead O/S
Ian Jones 19/Aug/11 Lead O/S

Tough. 6b for shorties and this has been confirmed with other ascentionists. Very satisfying lead. Seems odd that Rockfax says it is borderline and then puts it half way up the list of E4's in the new guide.

with Robert Durran (aka 'Big Bob')
Andrew Barker 16/Aug/11 Lead O/S

Incredible. The start was greasy making it a bit more exciting than I was expecting.

Hidden 15/Aug/11 Lead O/S
thomasadixon 02/Aug/11 Lead RP

Annoying slip off the start move, flashed other than that.

with Mike
redjerry ?/Aug/11 TR O/S
feilx 03/Jul/11 2nd rpt
with Andy L
quiffhanger 03/Jul/11 Lead O/S
La Mont 03/Jul/11 Lead O/S
with Felix
tommytuffa 04/Jun/11 2nd
with max, ollie b
frost 28/May/11 2nd β
with D Garry
mux 28/May/11 Lead

A bit damp..foot popped down climbing to rest on the lower crux. Pulled rope and did it clean second go. Gutted!

with frost
al99 15/May/11 Lead O/S
Luke Brooks 26/Apr/11 2nd
with John Orr
Hidden 26/Apr/11 2nd rpt
Hidden 26/Apr/11 Lead
Pete Graham 25/Apr/11 Lead O/S
Pippa 23/Apr/11 Lead dnf
with Jon
Hidden ??/2011 Lead
owenH ??/2011 -
Hidden ??/2011 Lead O/S
phil64 ??/2011 -
mwatson ??/2011 -
Adam Long 10/Oct/10 Lead
with Neil 'Nige' Kershaw
chiverstom 30/Aug/10 Lead O/S
with zappa
Misha 30/Aug/10 Lead O/S

My first E4 - or is it just hard E3? I'll have the E4 for now! Wasn't expecting to get it onsight but decided to have a go anyway. Quite hard from the outset but well protected throughout. Relents somewhat in the middle but still not many moves easier than 5b, apart from an easy section going up to the big thread below the crux and the finishing groove. A perfect hands free rest below the crux meant that I could have a couple of goes at figuring out the crux before committing to it while still fairly fresh. Most moves were technical rather than physical and there were some good rests, which meant that I never got pumped and so the route proved to be easier than Pleasure Dome despite having harder climbing. One of my best climbing experiences so far - really felt like I had achieved something there.

with Phil
philhilo 30/Aug/10 2nd dog

Good effort by Misha, made it look easy. Hard footless pulls straight off the deck. Solid E4 6a in my book.

with misha
drcorbasisgod 29/Aug/10 Lead O/S
Fran S8 29/Aug/10 2nd
david morse 27/Aug/10 Lead β

been on the hitlist for years, went for the flash with shed loads of beta on both cruxes and a line of chalked holds. felt like E3 in this style, probably E4 for the onsight. CLASSIC!

with chris todd
Hidden 27/Aug/10 2nd O/S
Mike Goldthorp 24/Aug/10 Lead O/S

Beautiful climbing! 2 disticnt cruxes - the bottom and the pillar, with a super juggy section in between! Really well protected - felt like hard but safe E3 6a. Perfect!

Hidden 15/Aug/10 Lead O/S
Rob Pitt 15/Aug/10 2nd rpt
with steveE9
Graham Iles 15/Aug/10 2nd
with Neil Stabbs
Billg 14/Aug/10 2nd rpt
with Will Calvert
Hidden 14/Aug/10 Lead O/S
d_meacher 08/Aug/10 2nd dog
Hidden 08/Aug/10 2nd O/S
irish paul 08/Aug/10 Lead O/S
with Dave Ripley
Rich Kirby 07/Aug/10 2nd rpt
with Nige
nige 07/Aug/10 Lead O/S

wobbly hold at the start, ready to break off - be careful

with richard kirby
billb ?/Aug/10 Lead O/S
Hidden 26/Jun/10 Lead O/S
Billg 13/Jun/10 Lead O/S

Again - it was effetively an onsight as even though I've done it before it was so long ago I remember nothing !!!

with Ralph Giles
Hidden ?/May/10 Lead β
Seymore Butt ??/2010 -
jeffmcd56 ??/2010 Lead O/S
with Rob
phil64 ??/2010 Lead O/S
Hidden 10/Oct/09 Lead O/S
eddy-on-the-rocks 03/Oct/09 Lead O/S
with Ben II
Hidden 20/Sep/09 Lead O/S
mbutton ?/Sep/09 Lead O/S
with Alex Adgar
Hidden 17/Aug/09 Lead
Hidden 17/Aug/09 Lead β
Rob Pitt 08/Aug/09 Lead O/S
with Owen Davies
alaan 28/Jun/09 Lead O/S
Ian Broome 28/Jun/09 2nd O/S
with Al
Hidden 27/Jun/09 Lead O/S
Dave Bond 27/Jun/09 Lead O/S
Hidden 27/Jun/09 2nd dog
timbanton 27/Jun/09 2nd
mattyork2 19/Jun/09 Lead O/S
with Tim Jepson
LC ?/Jun/09 Lead O/S
ksjs 23/May/09 Lead O/S

felt harder than it should have done: start is however quite insecure, especially when damp. i think though i was suffering from my usual 'classic route anxiety syndrome' which didnt help. moves to pass upper bulge are lovely. sustained interest from the start and certainly, for me, felt E4. a superb and tricky pitch.

Hidden 02/May/09 Lead O/S
Brown 11/Apr/09 Lead O/S

Bottom was wet & felt hard.

with John
Ed Booth 24/Aug/08 Lead O/S

Long route, flippin ace!

gforce 08/Aug/08 2nd
with Jason
Ian Parnell 25/Jul/08 Lead rpt
with Tim Emmett
lukea 14/Jun/08 Lead dnf

beautiful route. fine technical orange underclings and smearing on luscious huntsmans crimps and flatties. cocked up the bottom crux and got boxed and fell off. backed off half way. once sorted, the sequence is fine. want to get back on it.

with Al
jfreeman 03/May/08 Lead RP
with Ben Freeman
bfreeman 03/May/08 Lead β
with Jon Freeman
nathanmanc 03/May/08 Lead O/S
with Chris Todd
tlmarjot 03/May/08 2nd dog
with Nathan Lawrence
robyn1 ??/2008 -
sam83 ??/2008 Lead O/S
valecoastclimber 02/Sep/07 Lead O/S
ASchwirtz 26/Aug/07 2nd O/S
with Neil Hills
Hidden ?/Aug/07 -
Hidden 27/Jul/07 Lead O/S
PaulTanton 27/May/07 Lead O/S

Did it again to be sure it was that good. The start is often wet

with Dave Taylor
Alex Mason 06/May/07 Lead O/S


feilx 28/Apr/07 Lead O/S
Rob Kennard ??/2007 -
AlexRenshaw 26/Aug/06 Lead
John Southworth 01/Jul/06 Lead O/S
with Alex Jakubowski
Adam Ellwood 01/Jul/06 Lead O/S

steady for E4

with Praker
Hidden 29/Apr/06 Lead dnf
Paz 29/Apr/06 2nd rpt
with AS
Chad123 ?/Apr/06 Lead O/S

Sweet route in great position - favourite route at Pembroke?

with Huw
Boy ??/2006 -
dan gibson ??/2006 -
Bern ??/2006 -
Kev Little ??/2006 Lead O/S
Tom Briggs - Jagged Globe 11/Sep/05 Lead rpt
with Nic Sellers
Paz 31/Jul/05 Lead O/S

Found plenty of gear at the lower crux with a bit of cunning. Finding the holds on it as well as the strength (and method) on the top crux, took longer. Brilliant route.

with `Ozzy' G
Hidden ??/2005 -
Hidden ??/2005 Lead
Hidden 03/Jun/04 Lead O/S
Gus 30/May/04 Lead O/S
Hidden 29/May/04 Lead O/S
Hidden ??/2004 Lead dog
spidey 24/Aug/03 Lead O/S
steveb2006 16/Aug/03 Lead

The shady retreat is a welcome escape from the hot sun.

with Roland Smith
Hidden 22/Jul/03 Lead O/S
lx ?/Mar/03 Lead O/S
Hidden ??/2003 Lead O/S
Hidden ??/2003 2nd
buzby78 08/May/02 Lead
Adam Lincoln ??/2002 Lead
Davros the Psyched ??/2002 Lead O/S
Julian Wedd ??/2001 2nd
with A. Howarth
tuftynick ??/2001 Lead O/S
belay bunny turned bad ??/2001 2nd β
with marcus, loundsy
Hidden ??/2000 Lead
Tim M ??/2000 Lead O/S
Rich Kirby ?/Aug/98 Lead rpt
with Robin
bill1 21/Jun/98 Lead O/S
Hidden 24/May/98 Lead O/S
PaulTanton 24/May/98 Lead O/S
with Dave Taylor
Hidden ??/1998 2nd
DavidBarraclough ??/1998 Lead O/S
Hidden 27/Jul/97 Lead O/S
Hidden ??/1997 2nd
Dave Musgrove Jnr 07/Sep/96 Lead O/S
with Al Willoner
Gregory ?/Jun/96 Lead rpt

seconded Terry Ralphs in 1986 and lead and seconded several times since 1996

with peter jones, seb Kramer
steveb2006 24/Sep/95 Lead

Great climb - bit greasy at bottom. Will makes a determined effort to second

with Will Harding
Hidden 16/Sep/95 2nd
Roget 21/Jun/95 Lead rpt
with jon
Hidden ??/1995 2nd
rob.grafton ??/1995 2nd
with barry maybank
michael burrows 20/Aug/94 Lead O/S

1 fall

with andy boorman
Hidden ??/1994 Lead O/S
whispering nic ?/Aug/93 2nd
with Graham Iles
keefe 31/Jul/93 AltLd O/S
steve taylor ?/May/93 2nd
with john boyle
FATBOYFAT ??/1993 Lead O/S
Chris Ellis 09/Sep/92 2nd
with Rick Kerr
Hidden ?/Sep/92 AltLd
AlexRenshaw 22/Aug/92 Lead
with Doré Green
whispering nic ?/Jun/92 -
with Blaggy
steveb2006 03/May/92 Lead

Pretty good

with Simon Mee
Roget 07/Sep/91 Lead dog

fell off onto first runner then clean from ground

with jon
Billg ?/Jul/91 Lead O/S
jfletcher 18/Jun/91 Lead O/S
Hidden ?/Sep/90 2nd
Dave Rumney 02/Aug/90 Lead
Hidden 28/Jun/90 Lead dnf
Bruce Kerr 19/Apr/90 Lead
Rich Kirby 15/Apr/90 Lead O/S
Steve Crowe ??/1990 Lead β

Seconded Simon Gee 4/4/1985

with KM
Hidden ??/1990 Lead O/S
Hidden ??/1990 Lead O/S
Hidden ??/1990 2nd
Smith42 ??/1990 Lead
Hidden ??/1990 -
Hidden ??/1990 Lead
Hidden ?/May/89 Lead
William Robertson ??/1989 Lead O/S

Greasy and reachy.

with Emily, Steve, Shaun etc, Emily
bullybones ??/1988 Lead O/S
Neil R 31/Aug/87 2nd
with Mark
Alan James - UKC and UKH 23/Aug/87 Lead
with Tudor Griffiths
Dave Musgrove 22/Apr/87 2nd β
with Pete Finklaire
DDDD ??/1987 Lead O/S
with John Baker
sadams ??/1987 Lead
with Guy Townsend
AlexRenshaw 06/Oct/86 2nd
with Doré Green
AlexRenshaw 01/Aug/86 Lead
with Sean Myles
shark 30/Mar/86 Lead rpt
with Moz?
Mark Kemball 26/Aug/85 Lead
with Dave McCann
Mike Owen 25/Aug/85 Lead O/S
with Elaine Owen
Hidden 28/Apr/85 -
shark 13/Apr/85 Lead
with Triss Kenny
shark 17/Sep/84 2nd
steve.aisthorpe 17/Sep/84 Lead
with shark
steve L 22/Apr/84 Lead O/S
with Clive Curle
Chris Craggs ??/1980 Lead
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High E5
Mid E5
Low E5
High E4
Mid E4
Low E4
High E3
Mid E3
Low E3
Votes cast 77
High 6b
Mid 6b
Low 6b
High 6a
Mid 6a
Low 6a
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
Votes cast 76
Votes cast 67
Style of ascent
Alt Leads
Not Set
Flashed (β)
Ground Up
Not Set