Pembrokeshire > Huntsman's Leap >
 
Bloody Sunday*** E4 6a

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[sam on the bottom bit, 3 kb]This magnificent Pembrokeshire classic should have a place on everyone’s tick list. Arguments over its grade will continue for ever so consider it hard E3 or easy E4. Start 10m left of the end of the wall. Climb a series of cracks and bulges, with a hard move at 6m, to reach a rest below a big curving overlap. Pull out left and try and get your right hand in a slot which your left hand is in. Climb up and back right to reach the wide finishing flake/groove. Photo this page. © ROCKFAX
FA. A.Sharpe 15.7.79 15/Jul/1979

Ticklists: Pembroke Rockfax Top 50, Great Wall Climbs of the UK, Good E4s, Trad climbs for sport climbers.

Photo: sam on the bottom bit © mwatson
View all 14 photos or Submit a new photo of this climb.

PUBLIC LOGBOOKS
This climb is in 249 logbooks, and on 49 wishlists.

Hidden - Lead β - 06/Jul/14

olly12344 - Lead β - 05/Jul/14 with Patrick Hill

Hidden - Lead O/S - 15/Jun/14

Hidden - Lead dog - 15/Jun/14

Nice and pumpy
Ross.Cooper - 2nd dog - 08/Jun/14 with Dan Geh, Patrick Hill

Patrick Hill - Lead O/S - 08/Jun/14 with Dan Geh

Pumped!
Dan Geh - 2nd dog - 08/Jun/14 with Paddy, Ross

Mildly moist. Laced it up but still got unreasonably gripped midway and flung my large wires down the crag. Pretty cool outing!
Justin T - Lead O/S - 16/May/14 with Peter Milner

Hidden - Lead O/S - 16/May/14

Jack_F - Lead O/S - 19/Apr/14 with Remus

Hidden - 2nd rpt - 19/Apr/14

Fantastic stuff, pumpy for a warm up! A definite 3-star classic
anguskille - Lead O/S - 19/Apr/14 with Tom Fenwick

Bit greasy down low in the morning. Mega top section.
nathanlee - Lead O/S - 19/Apr/14 with Rob Greenwood

fennerz - 2nd O/S - 19/Apr/14 with Angus Kille

markalmack - Lead O/S - 18/Apr/14 with james marjot

Start still felt tricky, especially as Dougie had filled one of the handholds with gear! Found the rest of the route much easier going than last time.
shed_hed - 2nd rpt - 18/Apr/14 with Dougie Swanson-Low

last in the queue so tide coming in, had to move fast or Dunc would float off. Hardest move was getting off the floor!
GuyVG - Lead β - 18/Apr/14 with The enemy

Hidden - Lead β - 18/Apr/14

dswansonlow - Lead O/S - 18/Apr/14 with Darren McMaster

mike mo - 2014

1 rest on the first bit. Was scared and pumped!
metal arms - Lead dog - 31/Aug/13

Climbed with andy and Pete, repeating the climb for the first time since the first ascent in 79. A real privilege on one of the uks finest routes. Awesome.
shoulders - 2nd O/S - 27/Aug/13 with andy sharp, pete lewis

Cleaned up nice !
sharpie - Lead rpt - 27/Aug/13 with Jon, PL

Finally!
Adam Booth - Lead rpt - 25/Aug/13 with Ellen Cobby

tim newton - Lead O/S - 22/Aug/13 with jon stewart

Tom Livingstone - Lead O/S - 13/Aug/13 with Rob Durran

Hidden - Lead β - 10/Aug/13

tom.e - Lead O/S - 01/Aug/13 with Charlie Everett

First proper e4 lead. Felt pretty safe and relatively straightforward. Was tired and elated at the top.
The Grist - Lead O/S - 21/Jul/13 with Sam Simpson

Sam Simpson - 2nd O/S - 21/Jul/13 with Mark Grist

asmith37 - 2nd - 13/Jul/13 with Mike Grant

Hidden - Lead O/S - 13/Jul/13

On sash's gear, good fun
brices - Lead β - 13/Jul/13 with Joe Innes, Sash

Joe Innes - 2nd - 13/Jul/13 with Sash, Simon Brice

Hidden - Lead rpt - 13/Jul/13

felt worked after following Greg up JAD / STE combo but still found this steady
cooperman - Lead O/S - 06/Jul/13 with Greg Foster

Hidden - Lead O/S - 04/Jul/13

dan gibson - 2nd rpt - 04/Jul/13 with michael porter

dominic lee - Lead O/S - 29/Jun/13 with andy elliot

Effortless lead from Remus. No mistakes.
Daniel Heath - 2nd rpt - 16/Jun/13 with Remus

Hidden - Lead O/S - 15/Jun/13

climbingsheep - Lead O/S - 15/Jun/13 with Jake Young, Mike Watson

Jake Young - 2nd O/S - 15/Jun/13 with Climbingsheep, Mike

dan gibson - 2nd rpt - 08/Jun/13 with alice thompson

Too short to reach the holds on the crux so aided with the tide coming in. Rest felt quite easy and really nice.
Pippa - Lead dog - 08/Jun/13 with Jamie Thornley

Alice Thompson - Lead O/S - 08/Jun/13 with Dan Gibson

mountain_jay - 2nd - 08/Jun/13 with Pippa Froggatt

Seconded 2yrs ago. Ace route. Really enjoyed the techyness low down.
Ollie B - Lead rpt - 02/Jun/13 with D.Campbell

Awesome
piken - Lead O/S - 01/Jun/13 with Andy

Johnny Baker - Jun/13 with Justin Nicholas

Sarah Black - Lead O/S - Jun/13 with Paul Black

Tim Rodgers - 2nd dog - 24/May/13 with Mike Lea

ASchwirtz - Lead O/S - 06/May/13 with Richard Ashe

richardashe - 2nd dog - 06/May/13 with ASchwirtz

Wicked route! Start was quite tricky, especially as it was greasy.
shed_hed - 2nd O/S - 05/May/13 with Dan Heath

With Darren. The crux section was so greasy. Bit gutted to fall. Pulled the ropes through and lead second go. The climbing is a dream after the greasy start.
Daniel Heath - Lead RP - 05/May/13

Mega chuffed to have done this one as it's been on the hitlist for a while. Found the bottom bit hard and a bit 'wiggy'. Hard to read the wavey rock and it's lack of friction doesn't help either. I found a really hard reachy move into good holds low down. Loved the top though; great, crimpy, technical climbing and no worries about decking! Psyched to get back down onto the west wall. Not a hard E4 but not a softie either IMO, I'd feel really shortchanged at E3 I think.
Duncan Campbell - UKC - Lead O/S - 01/Apr/13 with Rob Greenwood

Nick Sillem - Lead O/S - 2013

gregoritos - Lead O/S - 15/Sep/12

put to bed
Ed morris - Lead RP - 30/Aug/12 with -martin

Ed morris - 2nd β - 28/Aug/12 with Adam Bevan

Super pumpy route, with a slimy start to make it interesting.
robin_hackney - 2nd O/S - 12/Aug/12 with Si

Hidden - Lead O/S - 11/Aug/12

Great route, tough in it's lower section then easing up at the top before an awkward crux. Been on my to do list for a while so pleased to get it done!
Joughton - Lead O/S - 10/Aug/12

Ramon Marin - 2nd O/S - 02/Jun/12 with ciaran tracey

took a load of falls on the bottom section, dogging and drying holds, so half the gear was pre-placed on the successful lead
Ciro - Lead RP - 02/Jun/12 with Ramon

Ramon Marin - Lead O/S - 26/May/12 with ciaran tracey

Had to dead point a least 2 moves.
Chi Cheng - 2nd O/S - 06/May/12 with Jon Fane

Hidden - Lead O/S - 05/May/12

Hidden - Lead O/S - 08/Apr/12

bigie bob - 2nd O/S - 08/Apr/12

Fell off the bottom, tried going in from the right as it was very wet. Will be back!
Adam Booth - Lead dnf - 06/Apr/12 with Ed Booth

sam820 - 2nd - 06/Apr/12 with Murdoch

jfane - Lead O/S - 2012

Hidden - 2012

dannyboy83 - Lead rpt - 02/Oct/11 with Sophie

Sophie Nunn - 2nd dog - 02/Oct/11 with Dan B

Hidden - Lead dog - 31/Aug/11

As onsight as it could be considering that I ate my sandwiches whilst queuing for it
wolverine - Lead O/S - 29/Aug/11 with Chris Coleman

datoon - 29/Aug/11 with K

John Brayshaw - 2nd dog - 29/Aug/11 with Dan

Hidden - Lead dnf - 27/Aug/11

Hidden - Lead O/S - 23/Aug/11

Speeddemonsi - Lead O/S - 20/Aug/11

Tough. 6b for shorties and this has been confirmed with other ascentionists. Very satisfying lead. Seems odd that Rockfax says it is borderline and then puts it half way up the list of E4's in the new guide.
Ian Jones - Lead O/S - 19/Aug/11 with Robert Durran (aka 'Big Bob')

Incredible. The start was greasy making it a bit more exciting than I was expecting.
Andrew Barker - Lead O/S - 16/Aug/11 with Cat Black

Hidden - Lead O/S - 15/Aug/11

Annoying slip off the start move, flashed other than that.
thomasadixon - Lead RP - 02/Aug/11 with Mike

redjerry - TR O/S - Aug/11

feilx - 2nd rpt - 03/Jul/11 with Andy L

quiffhanger - Lead O/S - 03/Jul/11

tommytuffa - 2nd - 04/Jun/11 with max, ollie b

frost - 2nd β - 28/May/11 with D Garry

A bit damp..foot popped down climbing to rest on the lower crux. Pulled rope and did it clean second go. Gutted!
mux - Lead - 28/May/11 with frost

al99 - Lead O/S - 15/May/11 with Mike Coles

Luke Brooks - 2nd - 26/Apr/11 with John Orr

Greasy low down
Ally Smith - 2nd rpt - 26/Apr/11 with Aly Robertson

Hidden - Lead - 26/Apr/11

Pete Graham - Lead O/S - 25/Apr/11 with Malcolm Scott

Hidden - 2nd - 23/Apr/11

Pippa - Lead dnf - 23/Apr/11 with Jon

Hidden - Lead - 2011

owenH - 2011

Hidden - Lead O/S - 2011

phil64 - 2011

mwatson - 2011

Adam Long - Lead - 10/Oct/10 with Neil 'Nige' Kershaw

chiverstom - Lead O/S - 30/Aug/10 with zappa

My first E4 - or is it just hard E3? I'll have the E4 for now! Wasn't expecting to get it onsight but decided to have a go anyway. Quite hard from the outset but well protected throughout. Relents somewhat in the middle but still not many moves easier than 5b, apart from an easy section going up to the big thread below the crux and the finishing groove. A perfect hands free rest below the crux meant that I could have a couple of goes at figuring out the crux before committing to it while still fairly fresh. Most moves were technical rather than physical and there were some good rests, which meant that I never got pumped and so the route proved to be easier than Pleasure Dome despite having harder climbing. One of my best climbing experiences so far - really felt like I had achieved something there.
Misha - Lead O/S - 30/Aug/10 with Phil

Good effort by Misha, made it look easy. Hard footless pulls straight off the deck. Solid E4 6a in my book.
philhilo - 2nd dog - 30/Aug/10 with misha

drcorbasisgod - Lead O/S - 29/Aug/10 with Johan Piper

Fran S8 - 2nd - 29/Aug/10

been on the hitlist for years, went for the flash with shed loads of beta on both cruxes and a line of chalked holds. felt like E3 in this style, probably E4 for the onsight. CLASSIC!
david morse - Lead β - 27/Aug/10 with chris todd

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 27/Aug/10

Beautiful climbing! 2 disticnt cruxes - the bottom and the pillar, with a super juggy section in between! Really well protected - felt like hard but safe E3 6a. Perfect!
Mike Goldthorp - Lead O/S - 24/Aug/10 with alex mason

Hidden - Lead O/S - 15/Aug/10

Rob Pitt - 2nd rpt - 15/Aug/10 with steveE9

Graham Iles - 2nd - 15/Aug/10 with Neil Stabbs

Billg - 2nd rpt - 14/Aug/10 with Will Calvert

Hidden - Lead O/S - 14/Aug/10

d_meacher - 2nd dog - 08/Aug/10 with Paul Black, Dave Ripley

dave657 - 2nd O/S - 08/Aug/10 with paul b

irish paul - Lead O/S - 08/Aug/10 with Dave Ripley

Rich Kirby - 2nd rpt - 07/Aug/10 with Nige

wobbly hold at the start, ready to break off - be careful
nige - Lead O/S - 07/Aug/10 with richard kirby

billb - Lead O/S - Aug/10 with Mark Warnet

Hidden - Lead O/S - 26/Jun/10

Again - it was effetively an onsight as even though I've done it before it was so long ago I remember nothing !!!
Billg - Lead O/S - 13/Jun/10 with Ralph Giles

Hidden - Lead β - May/10

Seymore Butt - 2010

jeffmcd56 - Lead O/S - 2010 with Rob

Hidden - Lead O/S - 10/Oct/09

eddy-on-the-rocks - Lead O/S - 03/Oct/09 with Ben II

Hidden - Lead O/S - 20/Sep/09

mbutton - Lead O/S - Sep/09 with Alex Adgar

Hidden - Lead - 17/Aug/09

Hidden - Lead β - 17/Aug/09

Rob Pitt - Lead O/S - 08/Aug/09 with Owen Davies

alaan - Lead O/S - 28/Jun/09

Ian Broome - 2nd O/S - 28/Jun/09 with Al

Hidden - Lead O/S - 27/Jun/09

Dave Bond - Lead O/S - 27/Jun/09 with Tim Banton

Hidden - 2nd dog - 27/Jun/09

Hidden - 2nd - 27/Jun/09

mattyork2 - Lead O/S - 19/Jun/09 with Tim Jepson

Hidden - Lead O/S - Jun/09

felt harder than it should have done: start is however quite insecure, especially when damp. i think though i was suffering from my usual 'classic route anxiety syndrome' which didnt help. moves to pass upper bulge are lovely. sustained interest from the start and certainly, for me, felt E4. a superb and tricky pitch.
ksjs - Lead O/S - 23/May/09 with goosebump

Hidden - Lead O/S - 02/May/09

Bottom was wet & felt hard.
Brown - Lead O/S - 11/Apr/09 with John

Long route, flippin ace!
Ed Booth - Lead O/S - 24/Aug/08 with Gus Hudgins

gforce - 2nd - 08/Aug/08 with Jason

Ian Parnell - Lead rpt - 25/Jul/08 with Tim Emmett

beautiful route. fine technical orange underclings and smearing on luscious huntsmans crimps and flatties. cocked up the bottom crux and got boxed and fell off. backed off half way. once sorted, the sequence is fine. want to get back on it.
lukea - Lead dnf - 14/Jun/08 with Al

jfreeman - Lead RP - 03/May/08 with Ben Freeman

bfreeman - Lead β - 03/May/08 with Jon Freeman

nathanmanc - Lead O/S - 03/May/08 with Chris Todd

tlmarjot - 2nd dog - 03/May/08 with Nathan Lawrence

robyn1 - 2008

sam83 - Lead O/S - 2008

ASchwirtz - 2nd O/S - 26/Aug/07 with Neil Hills

Hidden - Aug/07

Hidden - Lead O/S - 27/Jul/07

Did it again to be sure it was that good. The start is often wet
PaulTanton - Lead O/S - 27/May/07 with Dave Taylor

Amazing.
Alex Mason - Lead O/S - 06/May/07 with Steve Ramsden

feilx - Lead O/S - 28/Apr/07 with Dan Barbour

Rob Kennard - 2007

AlexRenshaw - Lead - 26/Aug/06 with Mike Dawes

John Southworth - Lead O/S - 01/Jul/06 with Alex Jakubowski

Hidden - Lead O/S - 01/Jul/06

Hidden - Lead dnf - 29/Apr/06

Paz - 2nd rpt - 29/Apr/06 with AS

Sweet route in great position - favourite route at Pembroke?
Chad123 - Lead O/S - Apr/06 with Huw

Boy - 2006

dan gibson - 2006

Bern - 2006

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 2006

Tom Briggs - Jagged Globe - Lead rpt - 11/Sep/05 with Nic Sellers

Found plenty of gear at the lower crux with a bit of cunning. Finding the holds on it as well as the strength (and method) on the top crux, took longer. Brilliant route.
Paz - Lead O/S - 31/Jul/05 with `Ozzy' G

Ally Smith - 2005 with James Parrott

Hidden - Lead - 2005

Hidden - Lead O/S - 03/Jun/04

Gus - Lead O/S - 30/May/04

Hidden - Lead O/S - 29/May/04

Hidden - Lead dog - 2004

spidey - Lead O/S - 24/Aug/03

Hidden - Lead - 16/Aug/03

Hidden - Lead O/S - 22/Jul/03

lx - Lead O/S - Mar/03

Hidden - Lead O/S - 2003

buzby78 - Lead - 08/May/02

Adam Lincoln - Lead - 2002

Davros the Psyched - Lead O/S - 2002

Julian Wedd - 2nd - 2001 with A. Howarth

tuftynick - Lead O/S - 2001

belay bunny turned bad - 2nd β - 2001 with marcus, loundsy

EagerAndy - Lead - 2001

Hidden - Lead - 2000

Tim M - Lead O/S - 2000

Rich Kirby - Lead rpt - Aug/98 with Robin

Hidden - Lead O/S - 24/May/98

PaulTanton - Lead O/S - 24/May/98 with Dave Taylor

Hidden - 2nd - 1998

Hidden - Lead O/S - 27/Jul/97

Hidden - 2nd - 1997

Dave Musgrove Jnr - Lead O/S - 07/Sep/96 with Al Willoner

Hidden - Lead - 24/Sep/95

ChrisJD - 2nd - 16/Sep/95 with PaulOr

Roget - Lead rpt - 21/Jun/95 with jon

Hidden - 2nd - 1995

rob.grafton - 2nd - 1995 with barry maybank

1 fall
michael burrows - Lead O/S - 20/Aug/94 with andy boorman

Hidden - Lead O/S - 1994

whispering nic - 2nd - Aug/93 with Graham Iles

keefe - AltLd O/S - 31/Jul/93 with Glenn Sutcliffe

steve taylor - 2nd - May/93 with john boyle

Chris Ellis - 2nd dog - 09/Sep/92 with Rick Kerr

Hidden - AltLd - Sep/92

AlexRenshaw - Lead - 22/Aug/92 with Doré Green

whispering nic - Jun/92 with Blaggy

Hidden - Lead - 03/May/92

fell off onto first runner then clean from ground
Roget - Lead dog - 07/Sep/91 with jon

Billg - Lead O/S - Jul/91

jfletcher - Lead O/S - 18/Jun/91

ChrisJD - 2nd - Sep/90

Dave Rumney - Lead - 02/Aug/90

ChrisJD - Lead dnf - 28/Jun/90

Bruce Kerr - Lead - 19/Apr/90 with George MacIntyre

Rich Kirby - Lead O/S - 15/Apr/90 with Will (S. Williamson)

Steve Crowe - Lead O/S - 1990

Hidden - Lead O/S - 1990

Hidden - Lead O/S - 1990

Hidden - 2nd - 1990

Hidden - Lead - 1990

Hidden - Lead - May/89

Greasy and reachy.
William Robertson - Lead O/S - 1989 with Emily, Steve, Shaun etc, Emily

bullybones - Lead O/S - 1988

Neil R - 2nd - 31/Aug/87 with Mark

Dave Musgrove - 2nd β - 22/Apr/87 with Pete Finklaire

DDDD - Lead O/S - 1987 with John Baker

sadams - Lead - 1987 with Guy Townsend

AlexRenshaw - 2nd - 06/Oct/86 with Doré Green

AlexRenshaw - Lead - 01/Aug/86 with Sean Myles

shark - Lead rpt - 30/Mar/86 with Moz?

Mark Kemball - Lead - 26/Aug/85 with Dave McCann

Mike Owen - 25/Aug/85 with Elaine Owen

Hidden - 28/Apr/85

shark - Lead - 13/Apr/85 with Triss Kenny

shark - 2nd - 17/Sep/84 with Steve Aisthorpe

steve L - Lead O/S - 22/Apr/84 with Clive Curle

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Voting
Total votes cast 194
hard E50 of 67
E50 of 67
easy E50 of 67
hard E40 of 67
E444 of 67
easy E417 of 67
hard E36 of 67
E30 of 67
easy E30 of 67
hard 6b0 of 66
6b0 of 66
easy 6b1 of 66
hard 6a1 of 66
6a31 of 66
easy 6a31 of 66
hard 5c2 of 66
5c0 of 66
easy 5c0 of 66
3 Stars57 of 61
2 Stars4 of 61
1 Star0 of 61
0 Stars0 of 61
Bag of .....0 of 61
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Style of ascent

Lead164 of 249 (65.9%)
Followed64 of 249 (25.7%)
Toproped1 of 249 (0.4%)
Alt Leads2 of 249 (0.8%)
Unknown18 of 249 (7.2%)

'Climbed'66 of 249 (26.5%)
clean O/S120 of 249 (48.2%)
clean β14 of 249 (5.6%)
clean rpt21 of 249 (8.4%)
clean RP5 of 249 (2.0%)
dogged17 of 249 (6.8%)
dnf6 of 249 (2.4%)