Rockfax Description
The right-most climb on the wall is another classic which is probably best combined with Scorch the Earth. Start at the right-hand end of the wall beneath a wide crack high up. Climb up to the bulge and pull over directly to a peg (there is a sneaky little rightwards bypass around this move which is a bit easier). Move easily up to the base of the wide crack. A delightful traverse leftwards leads to a ledge below a bulge. Either finish direct (as for Scorch the Earth), or make a hard move up and left into Bloody Sunday. © Rockfax

FA. G.Gibson 27.4.84 27/Apr/1984

Ticklists: Ultimate E4 ticklist.

ClimberDateStyleNotes & Partners
khawk 31/Aug Lead O/S

scorch the earth finish

Gary Gibson ??/2015 -
phil64 ?/Apr/14 Lead rpt
tom livingstone
benka 07/Aug/13 Lead O/S

Scorch the earth finish

cooperman 06/Jul/13 2nd O/S

with Scorch the earth finish

Greg Foster
ksjs 06/Jul/13 Lead O/S

Superb and very satisfying. Took the detour right of the peg, bit bold but very cool traverse back left via a mini runnel. Got quite spent trying to sort gear in the unhelpful pocket out left from the stuck on blobs section (just above the short, steep pocketed wall). Up and down 5? times at the thread but decided it was too warm and I was too tired to get full benefit from the diagonal rail above the thread. Thought it would be easy to slink off into Bloody Sunday - wrong! I found the move up from the huge slot thing hard and thought I was off; I'd just spent too long on this. In retrospect JAD is straightforward with good gear, I just got sucked in. Regardless, it felt to me like if you did finish on STE (even without having gone direct at the start via peg) you'd be knocking on the door of E5.

Duncan Campbell 02/Jun/13 Lead β

Awesome. Very hard crux sequence, had no idea what to do until Dave gave me the beta! Got to the Scorch the Earth thread and wanted to be at the top. The moves into Bloody Sunday aren't easy and you have to go for it above the gear...

john nightingale 13/Aug/11 Lead O/S

Finished direct into Scorched Earth. Felt like E5 but was quite wet.

Hidden 25/Apr/11 2nd
Pippa 25/Apr/11 2nd
owenH ??/2011 -
Hidden ??/2011 Lead O/S
Hidden 16/Oct/10 Lead
The Mountain Goat 16/Oct/10 2nd dnf

Overestimated my seconding ability, que diagonal abseil by the leader and fun climbing back up the abseil rope.

Dan Wicks
Hidden 13/Aug/10 Lead O/S
phil64 ??/2010 Lead O/S
Hidden 03/Oct/09 Lead dnf
Chad123 16/May/09 AltLd dog

About as close to an on-sight as you can get - tickled the last jug a few times and missed the hidden incut bit of it...doh, still one rest not bad for a pretty tough E4 all in all...

Humble and Emily
ASchwirtz 26/Aug/07 2nd dog

Hard - very hard

Neil Hills
Paz 17/Jun/07 Lead dnf

Freaked out about a rocking block and climbed back down sharpish.

janegallwey ??/2007 2nd
Boy ??/2006 -
Tom Briggs - Jagged Globe ??/2005 -
Hidden ??/2003 Lead O/S
sadams 16/Aug/98 2nd
Pete Bukowski
Rich Kirby 04/Jun/98 2nd
sadams 30/Mar/97 2nd
John Boyle
Dave Musgrove Jnr 11/Sep/96 Lead O/S
Al Willoner
Gregory ?/Jun/96 Lead O/S
Roget 24/Jun/95 Lead O/S
jfletcher 28/May/94 Lead O/S
whispering nic ?/Aug/93 Lead
Graham Iles
Rich Kirby ?/Apr/93 Lead O/S
Billg 01/Aug/90 Lead O/S
Jon Barton
Alan James - UKC and UKH 27/May/90 Lead
DDDD ??/1990 Lead O/S
Simon Lee
Hidden 07/Jul/87 Lead
andy gittins ??/1987 -
Mike Owen 26/May/86 Lead O/S
Elaine Owen
shark 10/Apr/86 Lead
Seb Grieve
shark 04/Apr/86 Lead dnf
High E5
Mid E5
Low E5
High E4
Mid E4
Low E4
High E3
Mid E3
Low E3
Votes cast 16
High 6b
Mid 6b
Low 6b
High 6a
Mid 6a
Low 6a
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
Votes cast 16
Votes cast 13
Style of ascent
Alt Leads
Not Set
Flashed (β)
Not Set