The right-most climb on the wall is another classic which is probably best combined with Scorch the Earth. Start at the right-hand end of the wall beneath a wide crack high up. Climb up to the bulge and pull over directly to a peg (there is a sneaky little rightwards bypass around this move which is a bit easier). Move easily up to the base of the wide crack. A delightful traverse leftwards leads to a ledge below a bulge. Either finish direct (as for Scorch the Earth), or make a hard move up and left into Bloody Sunday. © Rockfax
FA. G.Gibson 27.4.84 27/Apr/1984
Ticklists: Ultimate E4 ticklist.
|Climber||Date||Style||Notes & Partners|
scorch the earth finish
Scorch the earth finish
with Scorch the earth finish
Superb and very satisfying. Took the detour right of the peg, bit bold but very cool traverse back left via a mini runnel. Got quite spent trying to sort gear in the unhelpful pocket out left from the stuck on blobs section (just above the short, steep pocketed wall). Up and down 5? times at the thread but decided it was too warm and I was too tired to get full benefit from the diagonal rail above the thread. Thought it would be easy to slink off into Bloody Sunday - wrong! I found the move up from the huge slot thing hard and thought I was off; I'd just spent too long on this. In retrospect JAD is straightforward with good gear, I just got sucked in. Regardless, it felt to me like if you did finish on STE (even without having gone direct at the start via peg) you'd be knocking on the door of E5.
|Duncan Campbell||02/Jun/13||Lead β||
Awesome. Very hard crux sequence, had no idea what to do until Dave gave me the beta! Got to the Scorch the Earth thread and wanted to be at the top. The moves into Bloody Sunday aren't easy and you have to go for it above the gear...
|john nightingale||13/Aug/11||Lead O/S||
Finished direct into Scorched Earth. Felt like E5 but was quite wet.
|The Mountain Goat||16/Oct/10||2nd dnf||
Overestimated my seconding ability, que diagonal abseil by the leader and fun climbing back up the abseil rope.
About as close to an on-sight as you can get - tickled the last jug a few times and missed the hidden incut bit of it...doh, still one rest not bad for a pretty tough E4 all in all...
Humble and Emily
Hard - very hard
Freaked out about a rocking block and climbed back down sharpish.
|Tom Briggs - Jagged Globe||??/2005||-|
|Dave Musgrove Jnr||11/Sep/96||Lead O/S||
|Rich Kirby||?/Apr/93||Lead O/S|
|Alan James - UKC and UKH||27/May/90||Lead|
|Mike Owen||26/May/86||Lead O/S||