|85m, 3 pitches. |
An amazing route that avoids the main corner high up and instead steps out to the wild arete.
1) 4c, 40m. Climb the prominent groove for 12m. Move left and make an awkward diagonal traverse right to gain easier ground by a big rockover. Move up to belay.
2) 4b, 35m. Climb the slab by the corner-crack to a steepening. The right wall relents to a slab. Belay at the top of the slab.
3) 4a, 35m. Climb the flake on the left to a grass terrace. Traverse this to the base of The Great Corner.
4) 5a, 40m. Climb the corner with increasing difficulty to a peg on the right. Carry on up to a rest and just above is a belay and stance just below an overhang.
5) 5b, 30m. Make a memorable traverse out left to the arete and step down a couple of metres. Move left into the closest of two grooves. Climb this to pass an overhang before continuing up to a second steepening. Move over this and into another groove which is followed to the top. © ROCKFAX
UKC Logbook Description
Follow the summer line in three contrasting pitches, each challenging, with the last being a real stunner. The first pitch has crucial thin turf in the top section. Approach from the left up the slanting rake; there's a short step across at the end which is worth roping-up for (good belay at base of Askant Chimney). Some mid-size cams are useful for the top pitch, as are at least two axes!
Nick Bullock, Pete Harrison 23/Jan/2013
Photo: Ray Jenkins on The Great Corner, Llech Ddu © Nick Biven
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