|The Great Corner||E2 5b|
|85m, 3 pitches. An amazing route that avoids the main corner high up and instead steps out to the wild arete.|
1) 4c, 40m. Climb the prominent groove for 12m. Move left and make an awkward diagonal traverse right to gain easier ground by a big rockover. Move up to belay.
2) 4b, 35m. Climb the slab by the corner-crack to a steepening. The right wall relents to a slab. Belay at the top of the slab.
3) 4a, 35m. Climb the flake on the left to a grass terrace. Traverse this to the base of The Great Corner.
4) 5a, 40m. Climb the corner with increasing difficulty to a peg on the right. Carry on up to a rest and just above is a belay and stance just below an overhang.
5) 5b, 30m. Make a memorable traverse out left to the arete and step down a couple of metres. Move left into the closest of two grooves. Climb this to pass an overhang before continuing up to a second steepening. Move over this and into another groove which is followed to the top. © ROCKFAX
Follow the summer line in three contrasting pitches, each challenging, with the last being a real stunner. The first pitch has crucial thin turf in the top section. Approach from the left up the slanting rake; there's a short step across at the end which is worth roping-up for (good belay at base of Askant Chimney). Some mid-size cams are useful for the top pitch, as are at least two axes!
Nick Bullock, Pete Harrison 23/Jan/2013
Photo: Ray Jenkins on The Great Corner, Llech Ddu © Nick Biven