Rockfax Description
This route looks okay until you abseil down it. It is only then that you realise how steep the wall is. Has been described as a F7a+ with one long and serious run-out. Start at a crunchy flake to the right of Mysteries. Climb the initial wall past flakes (very low thread) to the large break and huge thread runners. Take a deep breath and attack the wall above, moving right to a thin flakeline. Climb this in a position of increasing seriousness to hopefully gain another thread. Follow the easier flake to a break then step right and climb direct to the top. © Rockfax

FA. M.Owen 18.4.90 18/Apr/1990

Ticklists: 100 or so good E6s - aye Caff.

Hidden 01/Aug Lead O/S
Dave Musgrove Jnr 31/Jul Lead O/S

Brilliant. The perfect run out then pumpy jugfest to the top.

nathanlee 12/Sep/14 Lead O/S

Perfect route with the climbing easing the more you commit. Great experience on this!

with Neil Mawson
soph 23/Aug/14 2nd rpt

Moves to peg on lower wall crux for me

with Blair Fyffe
Mike Goldthorp 18/May/14 Lead O/S

Breathtaking route! When you peep over the edge on the ab, so intimidating! Immaculate sequence all the way through the run-out, easing off just in time for it to not feel too deathly, perfecto!

with Jack G, Simon
Hidden ?/Aug/13 Lead O/S
redjerry 09/Jul/13 TR O/S


Hidden 01/Jun/13 Lead O/S
willoates 01/Jun/13 Lead dnf

took the mega-lob trying to clip the thread at the end of the run out, stopped 3m above the ground thanks to some world class belaying by Rudders.

with Dave Rudkin
colesy 04/May/13 Lead O/S


with Ollie Benzie
Alex Mason 04/May/13 Lead O/S

Amazing route ruined by climbing recklessly. Not good.

with Jemma Powell
tom106 11/Aug/12 TR

need to man up (get fitter....). 1st time trying a head point, thought i might as well as the others were on it - seems odd.

jacobjacob 11/Aug/12 Lead O/S

Ross abbed and replaced the threads. Then I lead it with no knowledge of the moves but quickdraws on the threads. Great climbing, about f7a, steady.

quiffhanger 11/Aug/12 Lead β

Awesome. First e6! Felt steady (if a little too gripped). As it should given I abbed the line, replaced the threads and got beta on the moves from Jacob's on-sight & Tom's second. The dangerous moves are easy, as long as you're not pumped from the trickier lower section! Get on it while it's dry & the threads are good!

with Jacob
switch 26/May/12 Lead dog

onsight attempt, fell just after clipping the thread above the run out. E6 6a felt fair. I think a ground-fall is a possibility if you fluff the clip, which is another tiring reach.

owenH ??/2011 -
soph ?/Aug/10 2nd O/S
with Dan McManus
Ged Desforges ??/2010 Lead β

With a 10mm rope, screwgates on the threads, and a good belayer, this isn't too outrageous. Certainly not E7. Amazing climb on posiitve holds. Threads replaced may 2010.

Hidden ??/2008 2nd
Steve Crowe 26/Aug/06 Lead β

Wow, so pleased, what a great runout! E7 in my guidebook. Looked at it on the abseil but didnt try any moves.

with Ian Denton
Mike Owen 18/Apr/90 Lead RP

Gary Gibson had done it previously (apparently with some drilled in situ gear which was removed by somebody from Bristol, perhaps Steve Monks). I happened to be there, top roped it and led it with 2 belayers, just in case I fell off the run out.

with Roger Bennion, Jim Hewson
Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
anguskille, Hidden, Hidden, theomoore, Hidden, tim newton, Hidden, Hidden, Hidden, brices, Daniel Heath, Hidden, Hidden, Dangerous Dave, Hidden, Hidden, Alex Mason, Hidden
High E7
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High 6c
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Style of ascent
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Flashed (β)
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