Rockfax Description
A popular route which is another one on the Pembroke 'tick-n-go' list. Start beneath the narrow projecting block. Climb up this and pull over onto the wall above. Follow a grooveline up and rightwards then move up to a crack. Climb this, with some hard moves past a bulge, to the top break. Step left, pull over the small roof at a wide crack and climb the easy wall above to the top. © Rockfax

FA. R Swinden, R Haszko 27/Apr/1980

Ticklists: Ultimate E1 ticklist.

Rob Rocket 29/Aug 2nd
Scooter Young 29/Aug Lead
Mark Kemball 18/Aug Lead

What a superb route!

Mark Grist 14/Aug Lead O/S
with Paul Tanton
PaulTanton 14/Aug 2nd O/S
Ed Babs 12/Aug 2nd O/S
with AlexD
AlexD 12/Aug Lead O/S

Had to pull pretty damn hard on this one! Bit of a pumpy warmup!

with Ed
bullwinkle 03/Aug 2nd
with Jon
cem 01/Aug 2nd
with Deniz Sumengen
markfromstoke 30/May 2nd
with Ian
ian d f 30/May Lead O/S
with Mark
cdpuk 03/May Lead O/S

Pumpy start if you hang around for too long, and hard middle section. Roof intimidating from below, but a joy to climb. Using Kai's rack.

with Peter Neden, Kai Green
alastairbegley 19/Apr Lead O/S

Fantastic route!

Slick 19/Apr 2nd
Brian Rodgers 04/Apr 2nd O/S
Mike Todd 04/Apr Lead O/S
Graeme Hammond 03/Apr Lead O/S
with Phil Baxter
Ollie B 12/Oct/14 Lead O/S
with B.Brewer
RyanOsborne 14/Sep/14 2nd

Great lead from Matt, I would have found this harrowing on the lead!

Matt77 14/Sep/14 Lead O/S

I found this tough and had to have a bit of a word with myself at the bottom of the crack after the groove. This climb has a bit of everything; a technical crack climb sandwiched between two powerful sections. Brilliant.

nickstephens 05/Sep/14 2nd O/S
gg4419 05/Sep/14 Lead O/S
Lessworkmoreclimbing 23/Aug/14 Lead O/S

Great varied route with typical Pembroke steep start, which woke me up. Luckily there's a good rest after.

with Kev
Hidden 23/Aug/14 Lead
Hidden 22/Aug/14 2nd
Pippa 22/Aug/14 Lead O/S
with Jon
mynyddresident 16/Aug/14 Lead O/S

real fun

with KP
Owen W-G 03/Aug/14 Lead O/S

Hard for e1, loads of gear but a bit strenny to protect start, got pumped on crux and struggled to recover. Top roof is a cinch.

with Sean
Frank the Husky ??/2014 -
Bob ??/2014 -
Hidden ??/2014 -
metal arms 30/Aug/13 2nd
John Nuttall 30/Aug/13 2nd
with Jon
pigeonslipper 30/Aug/13 Lead O/S
Hidden 26/Aug/13 Lead O/S
Tom Livingstone 14/Aug/13 2nd β
Hidden 08/Jun/13 Lead O/S
Hidden 06/May/13 2nd rpt
david morse 06/May/13 Lead β
with Andy Lole, chris todd
David Kay 31/Mar/13 2nd
Dan Lane 31/Mar/13 Lead O/S

Stonking route, pretty hard though!

jcw ??/2013 -
cymjt ??/2013 -
Mowglee 01/Sep/12 Lead O/S

Found the middle section pretty hard to commit to.

with Ali
Hidden 28/Aug/12 2nd O/S
Dave Foster 16/Aug/12 2nd O/S
with Robin, Si 2
robin_hackney 16/Aug/12 Lead O/S

Was going to go up the adjacent E2, but after a week of climbing, my tired arms told me the traverse left was too bold. Nice little route after the steep start.

Hidden 16/Aug/12 2nd O/S
Joughton 09/Aug/12 2nd O/S
JulesV 21/Jul/12 2nd
Shauna 20/Jul/12 Lead O/S
with Jules
Hidden 07/May/12 2nd
al99 25/Feb/12 2nd O/S
with Luke Hodson
lukehodson 25/Feb/12 Lead O/S
Hidden ??/2012 2nd O/S
Hidden 28/Aug/11 2nd O/S
Hidden 28/Aug/11 Lead O/S
Dave Rumney 28/Aug/11 -
Hidden 27/Aug/11 2nd O/S
climbingpixie 27/Aug/11 Lead O/S

Brilliant route and not too tricky once past the first stiff pull.

with Andy
Hidden 23/Aug/11 Lead O/S
catblack 20/Aug/11 Lead O/S

An amazing route - steep start (suprise suprise for pembroke)then really nice technical crux - loads better than the arrow. Felt tougher than other e1's in pembroke

Andrew Barker 20/Aug/11 2nd

A classic.

Gregory ?/Aug/11 2nd
with paul christie
chris j 10/Jul/11 Lead O/S

Intricate climbing, committing start.

with Doug
Jessie Rushbrooke 09/Jul/11 Lead O/S
with GF
Rory Shaw ??/2011 -
Hidden ??/2011 2nd O/S
irish paul 24/Oct/10 Lead O/S
with Sarah Joyce
Ed morris 01/Sep/10 Lead O/S

very nice. 16 bits of gear.

with -martin
Rob Pitt 28/Aug/10 2nd
Hidden 28/Aug/10 2nd β
Dave Reeve 11/Aug/10 Lead O/S
tigertim 11/Aug/10 2nd
Sam W 10/Oct/09 Lead

Had a look at Ultravox as well, looked a bit scary

with Carl Reilly
RobRock84 23/Sep/09 Lead O/S

great route,great exposed climbing with a few tecnical moves

with Chris price
Hidden 08/Aug/09 2nd β
belay bunny turned bad 08/Aug/09 Lead O/S
with loundsy
Hidden 28/Sep/08 2nd O/S
Hidden 17/Aug/08 Lead O/S
greenclimb 17/Aug/08 Lead O/S
with Sarah
chris sm 02/Aug/08 Lead O/S

Easy for E1.

with Pippa Froggatt
LC ?/Jul/08 Lead O/S
Julian Wedd ??/2008 Lead
with A. Howarth
Rob Kennard ??/2007 -
Hidden ?/Aug/06 Lead O/S
Hidden 29/Apr/06 Lead O/S
david morse ?/Apr/06 2nd
with chris todd
Bern ??/2006 -
Kev Little ??/2006 Lead O/S
tom.e ?/Aug/05 2nd O/S
with Charlie Everett
Pythonist ??/2005 2nd O/S
Urgles ?/Aug/04 Lead O/S
with Jack G
Hidden 30/Aug/03 Lead O/S
Hidden 01/Aug/02 Lead O/S
DubyaJamesDubya ??/2002 -
ian caton ??/2001 Lead O/S
with Andy
Hidden 04/Aug/00 Lead O/S
Tim Sparrow ??/2000 -
Hidden 12/Aug/99 -
Hidden ??/1999 Lead
Andy Edgar ??/1999 -
Hidden ??/1998 -
NeilGriffiths 17/Aug/97 -
with Neil Nussey
NeilGriffiths 17/Aug/97 -
with Neil Nussey
mikej 17/Aug/96 Lead
with Nick Salmon
Hidden 09/Sep/95 2nd
Hidden ?/Jun/95 Lead O/S
craig h ??/1994 Lead O/S
Rich Kirby ?/Apr/92 Lead
with Dave Taylor
whispering nic 04/Aug/91 Lead
with Graham Iles
Roget 31/Mar/91 2nd O/S
with colin
Bruce Kerr 18/Apr/90 2nd
michael burrows 13/Apr/90 2nd
with steve williams
Hidden ??/1990 -
Hidden 24/Jun/89 2nd
shark 02/Apr/89 Solo
Nigel Coe ??/1989 2nd
with Mike Scott, Scott Titt, Tim Dunsby
Hidden ??/1989 Lead
Mike Owen 27/Aug/88 Lead rpt
with Elaine Owen
Steve Crowe 04/Apr/88 Lead O/S
Hidden 22/Feb/88 2nd O/S
steve taylor ?/Aug/87 2nd
with stumpy
keefe 22/Feb/86 -
shark ?/Nov/85 2nd
with Richard O Mara
Mark Kemball 22/Aug/85 2nd
with Dave McCann
Hidden 19/Jul/85 Lead
neilh 06/Jul/85 Lead O/S
with dave croker
Dave Musgrove 23/Apr/84 Lead O/S
with Kenny Winkworth
Mark Kemball 01/Sep/83 Solo
Nigel Bond 29/Aug/83 Lead
with Charlie Leverton
Mike Owen 02/May/83 Lead O/S
with Elaine Owen
Mark Kemball 27/Apr/83 2nd
with Dave Kenyon
Hidden 01/Apr/83 -
Mark Kemball 31/Mar/83 2nd
with Mark Roberts
steve L 11/Sep/82 Lead O/S
with Lyndsey
Mark Kemball 11/Apr/82 Lead
with Chris Calow
babymoac ??/1982 2nd
with Martin Wilson
Hidden 08/Jun/81 Lead O/S
Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
Hidden, Hidden, hutchay, simon pape, Hidden, stvredmond, Ceridwen, a_radiohead_fan
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