45m, 2 pitches.

Rockfax Description
A Pembroke classic which soars up and out over the sea with more buckets than a garden centre. It is usually done in one pitch but can be split at a small stance if the tide threatens. Start beneath a line of grooves 5m left of the corner.
1) 5c, 20m. Climb up to the base of the first groove and follow it to a bulge. Power around this then swing up and right to a jutting flake (hands-off rest possible!). Continue up cracks to a well-positioned stance.
2) 5b, 15m. Pull into the upper groove and follow it more easily to the top. Stake belay well back. © Rockfax

FA. P.Littlejohn, R.Harrison 13.8.77 13/Aug/1977

Ticklists: Pembroke Rockfax Top 50, Ultimate E3 ticklist, The Best of Pembroke.


ClimberDateStyle
mynyddresident 24/Jun Lead O/S

In one pitch.

with Tony P, KP
Stefan_Morris 14/Jun Lead O/S

In one pitch, mega :)

Mike_Hayes 28/May Lead O/S

Led in 1 pitch (didn'want to give it over) - contender for best limestone E3.

GPN 09/May Lead O/S

1 pitch - mega route!

with Squeeks
guy xavier percival 17/Mar AltLd O/S

Really good The hard bit is short lived but pumpy

with crispin
spidermonkey09 18/Sep/15 Lead O/S

Harder than Star Gate! Plenty of jugs but crux significantly harder than the rest of the route, although top corner no pushover. Ellie had a bit of an epic on the second....!

Ellie Fuller 18/Sep/15 2nd dog

Not the most fun route to second, hanging out in space not being able to get back on! Also chipped my tooth takeing out gear.. :p

quiffhanger 30/Aug/15 Lead O/S

Wet! Still amazing.

with Rachel
datoon 30/Aug/15 Lead O/S

Pretty wet

with Adam Coles
Andrew Wilson 30/Aug/15 2nd O/S
with Matt Nuttall
mattnuttall 30/Aug/15 Lead O/S

Greasy... although much less so than when Toon lead it first thing that morning. Superb though.

rajeshwarbisht 29/Aug/15 2nd dnf
with Flavio
FlavioL1989 29/Aug/15 Lead O/S

Done in a single, really hard, steep and pumpy mega pitch. Way better than Rock Idol. Practiced my rescue techniques by hauling Raj up 6m of free space.

amccann 17/Aug/15 2nd O/S
harry_lewis 17/Aug/15 Lead O/S
benkelsey 17/Aug/15 2nd O/S

So good. Calm lead from shaun although the crux wasn't as juggy as expected. Mega line and wild positions

with Shaun Humphreys
shaunhumphreys 17/Aug/15 Lead O/S

Totally outrageous! possibly the best route of the trip! mega day in the end!

anguskille 07/Aug/15 Lead β

Mega! Mike lowered from the crux so I went and gave it a bash, great stuff

with Mike Grant
Ian Jones 29/Jul/15 Lead O/S

Forgot the rope so turned a 1 pitch route into a 3 pitch route. Again attempted to go the wrong way but sorted it in the end. Didn't find any hands off rest. Where does the time go?

with Dan Moore (DCD)
Hidden 29/Jul/15 AltLd
James Marshall 20/Jul/15 Lead O/S

As one pitch. The crux was pretty wet, which made it quite exciting.

with sash
Hidden 01/Jul/15 Lead O/S
Dan724 23/Jun/15 2nd O/S
with Dan Ely
dan ely 23/Jun/15 Lead dog

rested on crux and just after as i got really pumped on the greasy holds and scetched out. Top is fun and a bit more well behaved

with dan
M_Robinson 16/Jun/15 Lead O/S
Adam24B 16/Jun/15 2nd
Sardien 16/Jun/15 2nd dog

Utterly wild but awesome! Even if you are dangling in space lots like me this is one to love

markalmack 25/May/15 AltLd rpt

Im shit at steep

WB 25/May/15 AltLd O/S
Wood for Trees 23/May/15 AltLd O/S

P1. Rotten stuck wire broke apart when I tugged on it after clipping, smashed me in the face and chipped my tooth. Fantastic route. The first few moves of P2 are quite tricky I thought

with Jo Stadden
pearson9596 04/May/15 Lead O/S
ian d f 04/May/15 2nd rpt
Hidden 19/Apr/15 -
Hidden 16/Apr/15 Lead O/S
drysori 04/Apr/15 AltLd O/S

Great route, led the first pitch. Easier than it looks.

Tom Livingstone 23/Mar/15 2nd β

Into top of Airship

Hidden ??/2015 2nd
mikeshewring 30/Jul/14 AltLd O/S

P1

with sharpie
Ed morris 15/Jul/14 2nd rpt
with Jerry Handren
redjerry 15/Jul/14 Lead
with Ed Morris
adam 24 15/Jun/14 Lead dog

Lacked conviction at the crux and rested on gear. Amazing line!

with Paul Clarkson
jonleighton 14/May/14 2nd O/S
Hidden 13/May/14 2nd
Hidden 13/May/14 Lead O/S
Justin T 02/May/14 Lead O/S
with Rachel
Rachel Slater 02/May/14 2nd rpt
shed_hed 17/Apr/14 Lead O/S

Cool route and so steep! Was on this for about 2 hours apparently - took forever to commit to the crux! Top groove nearly had me off too. Really had to fight for this one but so worth it!

dswansonlow 17/Apr/14 2nd O/S
mike mo ??/2014 -
HAJ Francis ??/2014 Lead O/S
Hidden 10/Oct/13 Lead O/S
Hidden 06/Oct/13 Lead O/S
Kirill 06/Oct/13 2nd O/S

Actually as steep as it looks!

pie_eater_pete 10/Sep/13 Lead O/S
with bwestwood
Hidden 02/Sep/13 Lead dnf
Ed morris 26/Aug/13 Lead O/S

Led both pitches, great climbing, the top out wasn't much fun though.

with -martin
Joughton 25/Aug/13 2nd O/S

Good lead from Dad, thought the steep crux was hard and the top section wasn't much easier.

Mark Grist 23/Jul/13 AltLd O/S
Sam Simpson 23/Jul/13 AltLd RP

Tried to lead first pitch got psyched out, came down mark lead pitch 1, then i lead pitch 2. Absolutely wild and amazing, seconded pitch 1 very easily and almost kicked myself or not leading it clean. Oh well

Hidden 12/Jul/13 Lead O/S
brices 12/Jul/13 2nd β

Great effort from sash on the lead enjoyed following this one

with Sash
dominic lee 28/Jun/13 Lead O/S

1 pitch.

with andy elliot
Jake Young 18/Jun/13 Lead rpt

three top 50 leads that day, got hot and found this really hard kept slipping out of the crux hold on the crux. got it properly eventually.

climbingsheep 18/Jun/13 2nd O/S
with Jake Young, Mike Watson
Daniel Heath 12/Jun/13 2nd dog

An embarrassing repeat in trainers/no chalk/rainy conditions. Totally stupid. Both of us aided past the hard bits (good aiding skills from Remus)

with Remus
Hidden 12/Jun/13 Lead dog
Daniel Heath 10/Jun/13 AltLd O/S

Outrageous route!

with Remus
Hidden 10/Jun/13 AltLd O/S
Ollie B 29/May/13 AltLd O/S

Ace! P2

with D.Campbell
Duncan Campbell 29/May/13 AltLd O/S

Lead p1, absolutely WILD! Loved the lie down on the flake!

with Ollie B
Chi Cheng 02/May/13 Lead O/S

Just like indoor climbing. The tat is looking a little worse for ware tho.

with Adam Knightly
Olli-C 02/May/13 2nd O/S
Rachel Slater 02/May/13 Lead O/S

AWESOME! This route pretty much defines the type of climbing I love best.

Tubs 04/Apr/13 Lead O/S

First E3. Climbing wall fitness was invaluable as the first belay is about 5 metres further out to sea than the start.

with Dave M
jcw ??/2013 -
irish paul ??/2013 Lead O/S
Ed Babs 19/Sep/12 Lead RP

Ground up. Took a thirty footer from just before the belay after becoming intimidated by the steepness, over gripping and getting über pumped. Felt easy the second time. Damn. Still, easily my biggest (best?) whipper ever.

with AlexD
AlexD 19/Sep/12 2nd
with Ed
Dangerous Dave 19/Sep/12 Lead O/S

Outrageously steep!

with Dave O
dave o 19/Sep/12 AltLd O/S

Led second pitch. Quality

gregoritos 14/Sep/12 Lead O/S
eddy-on-the-rocks 24/Jul/12 Lead β

oner

with Tom
tommytuffa 24/Jul/12 2nd

Flailed on crux

with edd
david morse 12/Apr/12 Lead rpt

Lowered off this a few years ago, so ground up. Amazing line!

with Josh,Nath+Mikey
melonmike 12/Apr/12 2nd O/S
mwatson 11/Mar/12 AltLd O/S
thomasadixon 11/Mar/12 AltLd O/S

Led 2nd pitch. Astoundingly steep, not as hard as it looks but then it looks insane!

with Mike
Nick Sillem ??/2012 -
Adam Booth 23/Sep/11 Lead O/S

Thanks to my wife for belaying with an incoming tide and only an HVS for escape! Awesome route.

Hidden 28/Aug/11 Lead O/S
Hidden 26/Aug/11 Lead O/S
Hidden 14/Aug/11 2nd dog
C coldwell-storry 22/Jul/11 Lead O/S

absolutly mega!!!1 what a pitch did it in a one.

with rob lay
Glyn 30/Jun/11 2nd O/S
with Luke, Barni
Luke Brooks 30/Jun/11 2nd
with Glyn Hudson, Barni
barni 30/Jun/11 Lead O/S

In a oner

with luke, Glyn
pipof747 30/Jun/11 Lead O/S
Hidden 23/Jun/11 AltLd O/S
robin_hackney 21/Jun/11 AltLd O/S

Epic. Class route.

with Si
Hidden 01/Jun/11 AltLd O/S
Hidden 15/Apr/11 Lead O/S
belay bunny turned bad 15/Apr/11 2nd O/S
with loundsy
Hidden 15/Apr/11 Lead O/S
markalmack 09/Mar/11 AltLd O/S

STEEEEEP!!!!

with james marjot
Rory Shaw ??/2011 -
Hidden ??/2011 Lead O/S
ksjs 01/Sep/10 Lead O/S

the crux is one pull and its jugs virtually everywhere with more threads than you can imagine and hands off rests to boot: E2? the top pitch is a nice contrast with its square cut hanging groove and some balancey moves to get established. not the mind-blowing pitch thats made out but still good fun

with phil
Hidden 28/Aug/10 2nd dog
C Mclean 28/Aug/10 Lead O/S
with Kieran O' Sullivan
Graham Iles 14/Aug/10 Lead

Climbed in one loooong pitch...immense!

with Neil Stabbs
Speeddemonsi 13/Aug/10 Lead O/S
Andrew Barker 13/Aug/10 2nd O/S

Astoundingly overhanging.

with Si
Hidden 11/Aug/10 Lead β
Fran S8 01/Aug/10 2nd
JulesV 29/Jun/10 Lead O/S
with Shauna Cunningham
Toby Dunn 28/Jun/10 Lead O/S
with Joe Bawden
Hidden 27/Jun/10 2nd
Shauna 27/Jun/10 2nd
with Jules
chris wyatt 26/Jun/10 Lead O/S

Cool climb on a hot day.Ps some wires were left in the crag. Legitimate crag swag for the next party!

with PAul O'neal
Hidden 21/Jun/10 Lead dnf
jacobjacob 02/May/10 Lead O/S
LC ?/Apr/10 Lead O/S

One pitch

Seymore Butt ??/2010 -
Hidden 22/Sep/09 Lead O/S
ian d f 14/Sep/09 2nd O/S
with Pete H
steveb2006 07/Aug/09 Lead

Wild and harder than remembered (from 22 years ago)

with Roland Smith
Alex Mason 03/Jun/09 Lead O/S

Abbed in at high tide during rain to the cave, had to clip rope in to stay into the wall, mind bending atmosphere and exposure, will never forget the power scream crux slap. led first pitch.

with Nick Rabb
Brown 12/Apr/09 Lead O/S
with John
Hidden 11/Apr/09 Lead O/S
Hidden 11/Apr/09 2nd O/S
morganator 24/Aug/08 Lead
with Neil McAdie
gforce 07/Aug/08 Lead dog

1 fall. Crux section was wet but good finger locks should have stuck. A true full body work out!

with Jason
ASchwirtz 10/Jun/08 Lead O/S
with Ian (UBMC)
Chad123 19/May/08 AltLd rpt

Still a great route and both pitches pack a punch especially the crazy first one! The peg and sling helps a lot....

with Emily
Richard Horn 18/May/08 2nd
selman ??/2008 2nd dog
with Simon Robinson
frost ?/Aug/07 2nd
with D Garry
Gus 30/Jul/07 Lead O/S
Hidden 24/Jul/07 Lead β
Paz 16/Jun/07 Lead O/S

Fantastico!! There was a couple of helpful in situ wires on the hard bit which together with the stainless peg made it a bit sporty, but we removed them.

with TS
waltersp 16/Apr/07 2nd dog
with Nick
mux ??/2007 AltLd O/S
feilx 15/Jul/06 Lead O/S
Hidden 15/Jul/06 2nd
dan gibson 29/Jun/06 Lead O/S
with martina
Tom Briggs - Jagged Globe 23/Jun/06 Lead
with Matt Parkes
Paz 10/Jun/06 Lead dnf

Climbed back down from the bulge (too much gear both on my rack and in the (crucial) holds).

with AR
Adam Ellwood 12/May/06 Lead O/S

steep

with Dave Parton
bronsonite 01/May/06 Lead O/S
with Ben Lea
Hidden ?/Apr/06 2nd dog
Boy ??/2006 -
Bern ??/2006 -
Billg ??/2006 Lead O/S
with Paul Tucker
Smith42 ??/2006 Lead O/S
with Lenny
Kev Little ??/2006 Lead O/S
Ricky Rocks ??/2006 Lead O/S
Chubbard 30/Sep/05 2nd
with C Godfrey
Hidden ?/Sep/05 2nd β
Tom Briggs - Jagged Globe ??/2005 -
lx ?/Jun/04 Lead

onsight

Dave Musgrove Jnr ?/Jun/04 Lead O/S
with Viv
Steve Crowe 08/Apr/04 Lead O/S
with KM
Hidden ??/2004 AltLd
goi.ashmore 27/Jun/02 Lead O/S
with Myles Jordan
shoulders 08/Jul/01 2nd O/S
with mart
Tim M ??/2000 -
Hidden 03/May/99 Lead O/S
innes ?/Aug/98 Lead dog

5c? Felt hard.

with Jon Bracey
Rich Kirby 04/Jun/98 Lead O/S
PaulTanton 23/May/98 AltLd O/S
with Special Robin
Dave Musgrove Jnr 03/May/98 AltLd
with Muir Morton
Hidden ??/1998 2nd
Hidden ?/Aug/97 Lead O/S
Hidden 01/Jun/97 Lead
craig h 13/Sep/96 Lead O/S
with Janet Hannah
andybirtwistle 14/Aug/96 AltLd O/S
with Steve Brewis
phardman 06/Sep/95 Lead O/S
with Jon Bibby
shark ??/1994 Lead O/S

Year a guess. Remember being a bit disappointed.

jfletcher 14/Jun/92 AltLd O/S

Led Pitch 1

with David Gilkes
Dave Rumney ??/1990 -
Hidden 28/Aug/89 Lead β
Hidden 30/Apr/88 AltLd
William Robertson ??/1988 Lead O/S
with Emily, Steve, Shaun etc
steveb2006 03/Oct/87 Lead

Draw straws to lead the main pitch - I 'win'

andy gittins ??/1987 -
Mike Owen 29/May/86 Lead O/S
with Eric Rooseberry
keefe 07/May/86 -
with Johnny Adams
Hidden 30/Apr/85 -
Hidden ??/1985 -
Mark Kemball 01/May/84 Lead
nicmac 01/May/84 2nd
Steve Bell ??/1981 -
with Martin Corbett
Chris Craggs ??/1980 Lead
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Voting
High E4
Mid E4
Low E4
High E3
Mid E3
Low E3
High E2
Mid E2
Low E2
Votes cast 45
High 6a
Mid 6a
Low 6a
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
Votes cast 45
Votes cast 44
Style of ascent
Lead
Followed
Alt Leads
Not Set
Onsighted
Dogged
Flashed (β)
Repeated
DNF
Redpoint
Not Set