Rock Idol*** E1 5a
[Sarah-Jane Dobner on Rock Idol, 2 kb]

Rockfax Description
The best E1 in Britain? Probably! The line follows the huge corner all the way but on an angle of rock normally reserved for E5s. Start below the corner and climb up to the sloping ledge. Climb the right wall to an overhang. Move around this and continue to another bulge with a line of holds leading out right. Ignore these holds and pull over the daunting bulge above on some of the biggest holds in the universe. Continue straight up the crack and right-leaning groove above to ledges. Climb the crack above to the top, then stand back and beat your chest triumphantly! © ROCKFAX

FA. P.Littlejohn 5.76 May/1976

Ticklists: Pembroke Rockfax Top 50, 100 best limestone climbs in Britain, UK Extreme Corners, Ultimate E1 ticklist, The BMC 70th Anniversary Ticklist, AMC Uni Ticklist.

Photo: Sarah-Jane Dobner on Rock Idol ©
View all 13 photos or Submit a new photo of this climb.

This climb is in 493 logbooks, and on 152 wishlists.

gurumed - Lead O/S - 27/Sep/15 with Brian H

Superb route. Still trying to think of a better HVS or E1 and haven't thought of one yet. Would be a good choice for a first E1.
AndrewP - Lead O/S - 27/Sep/15 with FelixPeterken

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 26/Sep/15

cdpuk - Lead O/S - 25/Sep/15 with Bernhard Lozowski

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 25/Sep/15

poeter210 - Lead O/S - 20/Sep/15 with argentinian machine

Brilliant route all the way, pulling through the overhang feels heroic! Pumpy. Really cool above chrashing waves near high tide! Have seconded a year ago.
Ella7 - Lead O/S - 18/Sep/15 with Jim Hulbert

Finally managed to get on it after years of finding an in-situ team whenever I tried. Perfect conditions on the bank holiday Monday and only 1 other team on the entire crag. Worth every bit of the high-tide faff we had to get to the base.
quiffhanger - Lead O/S - 31/Aug/15 with Rachel

Hidden - Lead O/S - 30/Aug/15

climbed in the wet, Fantastic route!!!! Mega jugs on second half!
jon_gill1 - Lead O/S - 30/Aug/15 with chris Lyness

Richard Kendrick - 2nd O/S - 30/Aug/15 with Nick Loc

Nothing too hard just intimidating
pete1993 - Lead rpt - 17/Aug/15 with Dawn

To take the gear out
pete1993 - 2nd rpt - 17/Aug/15 with Dawn

amccann - Lead O/S - 17/Aug/15 with Harry Lewis

On Pete's gear as we both wanted to lead it. Great climbing, really varied and just hard/sustained enough to get E1.
Dawn_K_B - Lead β - 17/Aug/15 with Pete Briggs

harry_lewis - 2nd O/S - 17/Aug/15 with Alex McCann

Well in kc. Your first e1 and done in style. I love this route. Great gear And holds all the way through some steep ass terrain. Brilliant.
luke glaister - 2nd rpt - 16/Aug/15 with Jimmysmith1577, casey johns

casey johns - Lead rpt - 16/Aug/15 with Jimmy smith, luke glaister

I don't know about Britain, but it's the best E1 I've ever done!
DanChad - Lead O/S - 12/Aug/15 with Chris Murray

Awesome. As ever.
Le Chevalier Mal Fet - 2nd - 12/Aug/15 with Dan Chadfield

4 stars for position, didn't think the climbing flowed too well though
benkelsey - 2nd O/S - 11/Aug/15 with Shaun Humphreys

shaunhumphreys - Lead O/S - 11/Aug/15 with benkelsey

Hidden - Lead O/S - 08/Aug/15

dicky79 - Lead O/S - 08/Aug/15 with Mark Nicholson

NickST - 2nd - 02/Aug/15

E5 territory but at sick.
callumbtaylor - Lead O/S - 22/Jul/15 with Jack Peate

Slightly disappointing given all the hype. Maybe it was the fact that the route is escapable at the top and you can have a siesta halfway up.
Avon Man - Lead O/S - 18/Jul/15 with Derek

sparbus - Lead - 17/Jul/15 with mike b

Hidden - Lead O/S - 15/Jul/15

Dan724 - 2nd O/S - 23/Jun/15 with Dan Ely

LJC - Lead O/S - 21/Jun/15 with Greg

tmawer - 2nd rpt - 21/Jun/15 with Bram

Big route, big holds, big atmosphere. Brilliant. Cheers to Luca and Greg for holding on whilst we used your abseil into the abyss.
BTphonehome - Lead O/S - 21/Jun/15 with Tony

M_Robinson - Lead O/S - 16/Jun/15 with Adam Bowman

james1978 - Lead O/S - 14/Jun/15 with pam

Cheese Monkey - 2nd rpt - 06/Jun/15 with Ric E

I kind of agree with the guide - it's definitely up there for best e1 in the uk - it's soooooo good!
RichyBOYY - Lead O/S - 06/Jun/15 with Ben Darby

roberto18 - Lead O/S - 28/May/15 with Dad (Mike Bridges)

Ian MK - Lead O/S - 26/May/15 with Anna

Cheese Monkey - Lead O/S - 25/May/15 with Ric E

Dunx - Lead O/S - 25/May/15 with Jake Thompsett

Anna Maykova - 2nd - 25/May/15 with Ian

Duncan Campbell - 2nd rpt - 23/May/15 with Pete Graham

martinlevya82 - 2nd O/S - 23/May/15

Super, great atmosphere with the fog.
FlavioL1989 - Lead O/S - 22/May/15 with Martin Levy

Andy Peak 1 - 2nd - 12/May/15 with Andy Makey

admackie - Lead O/S - 12/May/15 with andy

3***s are nailed on this route. Great gear great holds. Big moves. Always a rest and gear but steep enough to not mess around on. Are first visit to the area and it's become a favorite. X
luke glaister - Lead O/S - 18/Apr/15 with casey johns

casey johns - 2nd O/S - 18/Apr/15 with luke glaister

Hidden - Solo O/S - 16/Apr/15

Hidden - Lead O/S - 06/Apr/15

Ian1987 - 2nd O/S - 05/Apr/15

pretty fucking good!
markalmack - Lead O/S - 05/Apr/15 with ian

drysori - 2nd - 04/Apr/15

Graeme Hammond - 2nd rpt - 04/Apr/15 with Phil Baxter, Alex Twist

misterb - Lead O/S - Apr/15 with justin

Hidden - Apr/15

Ian craigie - Lead - 2015 with Karen Mackintyre, Niels Ernst williams

duncandarnell - Lead O/S - 26/Sep/14 with jord smith

jon22 - Lead - 24/Sep/14 with manxclare

Hidden - Lead O/S - 21/Sep/14

Hidden - 2nd dnf - 20/Sep/14

Hidden - Lead O/S - 15/Sep/14

nathanlee - 2nd - 15/Sep/14 with Anna Gilyeat

Finally! Unbelievable route, massive holds. Will never forget pulling over the roof on those massive buckets for holds. Brilliant!
spidermonkey09 - Lead - 10/Sep/14 with Ellie Fuller

Took the HVS escape route through the cave. Was baking on the wall and didn't have the mental and physical energy to pull through the final overhang - just scared to risk taking a big fall! :)
druss - Lead dog - 07/Sep/14 with Peter Ocampo

arthur_de_briton - Lead - 23/Aug/14 with cat mckenna

Looked at drizzle for some time before we commited. Had to move off bottom ledge as tide coming in faaaast... Epic jug fest.
philhilo - 2nd O/S - 23/Aug/14 with Helen E

AdamCB - 2nd - 19/Aug/14

Duncan Campbell - 2nd rpt - 16/Aug/14 with GuyVG

had wanted to do zeppelin but it was busy so escaped up this, not often you get to escape up one of the best rock climbs in the country. Stunning and intimidating.
GuyVG - Lead O/S - 16/Aug/14 with duncan campbell

mynyddresident - 2nd rpt - 15/Aug/14 with KP

Steven Carter - Lead O/S - 08/Aug/14 with Trythallj

Hidden - 2nd β - Aug/14

Adam24B - Lead O/S - Aug/14

Hidden - Lead O/S - 31/Jul/14

owain86 - Lead O/S - 29/Jul/14 with Will

wi11 - 2nd β - 29/Jul/14 with Owain Atkins

hazeysunshine - 2nd O/S - 28/Jul/14 with Alex

brices - 2nd rpt - 26/Jul/14 with Mike

Very good. But thought 'The Arrow' was better at E1.
ianjfsutcliffe - Lead O/S - 22/Jul/14 with Coatesy

Richard P Coates - 2nd O/S - 22/Jul/14 with ianjfsutcliffe

Hidden - Lead O/S - 21/Jul/14

Hidden - 2nd - 21/Jul/14

Outrageous line for an E1
adam 24 - 2nd O/S - 15/Jun/14 with Paul Clarkson

Fell from slabby groove after the bulges. Whoops
henry.jeffreys - Lead dog - 13/Jun/14 with Raymond Linklater

Ross.Cooper - Lead O/S - 10/Jun/14 with Pete Jarrett

chappers909 - 2nd - 05/Jun/14 with Patrick Hill, Dan Geh

Dan Geh - Lead O/S - 05/Jun/14 with Paddy, Will

Patrick Hill - 2nd O/S - 05/Jun/14 with Dan Geh

Did it again coaching Viki on her first trad weekend
Ramon Marin - Lead rpt - 01/Jun/14 with viki harvey

did it with a minimal rack as we did it to exit after my fail on Klingon, so added to the spice. Amazing route
Ramon Marin - Lead O/S - 26/May/14 with Justin Timms

Hidden - 2nd - 25/May/14

Hidden - Lead rpt - 24/May/14

Ed morris - 2nd rpt - 21/May/14 with stefan

Stefan_Morris - Lead O/S - 21/May/14 with Edmundmorris

jonleighton - Lead O/S - 14/May/14

Hidden - 2nd - 13/May/14

Hidden - Lead O/S - 04/May/14

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 04/May/14

frank mckenna - 04/May/14

Hidden - Lead - 25/Apr/14

Tom Livingstone - 2nd β - 20/Apr/14 with John Cook

The biggest holds in Britain? Great line, great climbing, never to hard, never to easy, brilliant.
Brannock - Lead O/S - 19/Apr/14

Maken - 2nd O/S - 18/Apr/14

Fantastic climb!
alastairbegley - Lead O/S - 12/Apr/14 with Richard Nicholson

Brilliant, hard work. Started at the refuge belay due to incoming tide.
Nick Russell - Lead O/S - 12/Apr/14 with Steve Shenton

Thuggy. Spent ages on left arm trying to take some gear out - didn't really recover all weekend! Really nice route, although was a little damp in places.
Slick - 2nd - 12/Apr/14 with Alastair Begley

SJS - 2nd - 12/Apr/14 with Nick

Jonny Nick - Lead O/S - 16/Mar/14

Awesome! Really want to lead this! Pulling over the overhang was magnificent!
Ella7 - 2nd O/S - 2014 with Jim Hulbert

Hidden - 2014

Tim Sparrow - 2014

mike mo - 2014

Hidden - 2014

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 06/Oct/13

Really really good. Sustained, varied and looks great.
Kirill - Lead O/S - 06/Oct/13 with Conor Cussell

Superhappy with this, what a climb what a day! Lots of deserted birdsnests all over the route
Sardien - Lead O/S - 06/Oct/13 with Rich Gentry

gjd - Lead O/S - 30/Sep/13 with Ronnie

Hidden - 2nd - 23/Sep/13

Took a whipper off crux, busted ankle.
RCrockford - Lead dnf - 20/Sep/13 with Graham

Such a good route! Monkeyed around on the overhang. Looking down is impressive/dizzying.
Alex the Alex - Lead rpt - 14/Sep/13

Andrew Wilson - Lead O/S - 28/Aug/13 with jon stewart

Joughton - Lead O/S - 25/Aug/13

Hidden - Lead O/S - 25/Aug/13

Pretty cool..
Jim Slater - Lead O/S - 25/Aug/13 with Trevor Wilson

UnkArl - Lead O/S - 24/Aug/13 with Matt

rd20 - 2nd O/S - 22/Aug/13 with Rachel Somerville

brilliant jug fest with at least 2 hands off rests.
Rachel Somerville - Lead O/S - 22/Aug/13 with Robert

twoplates - 2nd O/S - 22/Aug/13 with Josh, Neil MacKay

Rob84 - 2nd dog - 21/Aug/13 with Rob Adie

Got scared halfway up and bailed - lame!
Rob84 - Lead dnf - 21/Aug/13 with Rob Adie

Justin T - Lead O/S - 11/Aug/13 with Sue

Hidden - 2nd - 11/Aug/13

Steeve - Lead dnf - 07/Aug/13

Seconded many years ago so felt like onsight! Had been meaning to do this climb for years. Felt great. Didn't remember doing the initial crack upto the sloping ledge before - found it a challenge to get off the ground, involving bridging on a limpet which dropped off when I took my foot off it, sorry limpet!
Lessworkmoreclimbing - Lead O/S - 07/Aug/13 with Kev

TomMorgan - 2nd O/S - 04/Aug/13 with James Slater

Hidden - Lead O/S - 03/Aug/13

Chriswallis2 - Lead O/S - 29/Jul/13 with Beef Cake

JonathanJones - 2nd O/S - 29/Jul/13 with Curly Chris

Dilwat - Lead O/S - 27/Jul/13 with Nick

nickdonohue - 2nd - 27/Jul/13 with Ian Riddell

Mark Grist - Lead O/S - 23/Jul/13 with Sam Simpson

Sam Simpson - 2nd O/S - 23/Jul/13 with Mark Grist

asmith37 - Lead O/S - 14/Jul/13 with Mike Grant

Hidden - 2nd β - 12/Jul/13

Such good positions for the grade
brices - Lead O/S - 12/Jul/13 with Sash

joese7en - AltLd O/S - Jul/13

dominic lee - 2nd - 28/Jun/13 with andy elliot

Jake Young - 2nd rpt - 19/Jun/13 with Climbingsheep, Mike

tommytuffa - Lead O/S - 18/Jun/13 with Libby

Hidden - Lead O/S - 14/Jun/13

Andrew1 - Lead - 09/Jun/13 with Hulda

r_o_b_h2 - Lead O/S - 08/Jun/13 with Nik Goile

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 08/Jun/13

guy757 - 05/Jun/13

RachelP - 2nd - 04/Jun/13

andy dunn - Lead rpt - 05/May/13 with J

Chi Cheng - 2nd rpt - 02/May/13 with Adam Knightly

Olli-C - Lead O/S - 02/May/13 with Rachel Slater

Rachel Slater - 2nd rpt - 02/May/13 with Olli Crudge

Hidden - 2nd - May/13

Nick Biven - 2013

jcw - 2013

Hidden - 2013

VPJB - 2013

Great route. Found the first half harder than it looked and was glad to have a sit down on the ledge between bulges. Second bulge felt nicely exposed with proper 3 dimensional climbing.
Alan100 - Lead - 20/Oct/12

Moved onto the HVS to the right at the bulge
Alex179 - 2nd - 20/Oct/12

Ed morris - Lead O/S - 20/Sep/12 with Dickon

nickstephens - 2nd O/S - 20/Sep/12 with Gareth Greeves

gg4419 - Lead O/S - 20/Sep/12 with Nick

Dangerous Dave - 2nd O/S - 19/Sep/12 with Dave O

dave o - Lead O/S - 19/Sep/12 with Dave Cowan

Vertical side wall means you don't really ave to climb any steep stuff, except that bulge...
Ed Babs - 2nd O/S - 18/Sep/12 with AlexD

AlexD - Lead O/S - 18/Sep/12 with Ed

Graham Westbrook - Lead O/S - 03/Sep/12

Alex the Alex - 2nd - Sep/12

Cardi - 2nd O/S - 30/Aug/12 with Tom R

Hidden - Lead O/S - 11/Aug/12

Hard and very steep wasn't strong enough for sustained steep climbing!
stephenarnold - 2nd dog - 11/Aug/12

Rosea Day - Lead O/S - Aug/12 with Jerome Gill

Hidden - Lead - 29/Jul/12

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 29/Jul/12

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 28/Jul/12

Finished on HVS as this is the obvious line - still excellent, looking forward to returning for other finish(es!
Dizz - Lead O/S - 28/Jul/12 with Matt K, george

Binder - 2nd O/S - 28/Jul/12 with Matt K, Liz F

mike lawrence? - Lead - 09/Jul/12 with James the Navigator

pembrokeshirecaver - 2nd rpt - 04/Jun/12 with John Bennetts

Stood on a shell and decked out! had to lower off and set up a belay on the ledge to avoid the tide. epic
jiggerypokery - AltLd dog - 02/Jun/12 with Rosea Day

finished on the HVS to the right of Rock Idol.
Alex Munnery - AltLd dnf - 23/May/12 with NathanW

JamieSparkes - 2nd O/S - 06/May/12

CragDog - Lead dog - 06/May/12

Finished on hvs next door.
NathanW - AltLd - May/12 with Alex Munnery

Laybacked the entire crux roof, felt very committing. Aparently there is a jug out right which allows easier moves.
pembrokeshirecaver - Lead O/S - 24/Apr/12 with Martin

Lovely climb! Generous E1, excellent gear - take LOTS of threads and don't be intimidate by the view when standing at the bottom.
sara n - Lead O/S - 13/Apr/12 with Karl Blanchet

Hardcore Pat - Lead O/S - 11/Apr/12 with Chris Vanderz

awesome route :)
Rachel Slater - Lead O/S - 08/Apr/12 with Chi Huo Cheng

Hidden - 2nd - 08/Apr/12

melonmike - Lead O/S - 08/Apr/12 with liam brown

Dean177 - Lead O/S - 08/Apr/12 with Alan Dibben

Dibdawg - 2nd O/S - 08/Apr/12 with Dean Merchant

Chi Cheng - 2nd O/S - 08/Apr/12 with Rachel Stater

pie_eater_pete - Lead O/S - 06/Apr/12 with bwestwood

Pippa - Lead O/S - 06/Apr/12 with Tink

bwestwood - 2nd - Apr/12

ben1987 - Apr/12 with Adam Coles

esther - Lead - Apr/12

Hidden - 2nd - 26/Mar/12

stvredmond - Lead - 26/Mar/12 with Sean mercer

Nick1812P - Lead O/S - 11/Mar/12 with Anna

After paul had a massive whipper.
JRae - Lead - 11/Mar/12 with Paul M

pete1993 - 2nd O/S - 11/Mar/12 with Jake Young

Jake Young - Lead O/S - 11/Mar/12 with Pete Briggs

Took a huge whipper on lead after being sent the wrong way at the crux. Found it easier when on second and going the right way!
pmurdy - 2nd RP - 11/Mar/12 with Jonny Reay

Adam Coles - Lead O/S - Mar/12 with ben park

al99 - 2nd O/S - 26/Feb/12 with Luke Hodson

lukehodson - Lead O/S - 26/Feb/12 with Al Benson

Tony Kartawick - 2012

Hidden - Lead O/S - 16/Oct/11

Had to traverse out at the second roof to retrieve gear but got back without any problems (just a bit of pump)
Wil.Hooke - 2nd O/S - 16/Oct/11 with Dan Wicks, Olly

cat22 - 2nd O/S - 29/Sep/11 with Mike

Hidden - Lead O/S - 15/Sep/11

Hidden - 2nd - 15/Sep/11

Hidden - Lead O/S - 01/Sep/11

annetweddell - 2nd - 31/Aug/11 with Jeff

Hidden - Lead O/S - 29/Aug/11

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 29/Aug/11

Had to rest on the rope halfway up as Sebastien had the rope on either side of a bulge, couldn't hear me yelling and I couldn't move in either direction up the overhang!
mariannekhoo - 2nd dog - 29/Aug/11 with Sebastien Gastaud

Sebastien Gastaud - Lead O/S - 29/Aug/11 with Marianne Khoo

Mr Sparkle - Lead O/S - 29/Aug/11 with Liam Byrne

givemetea - 2nd O/S - 28/Aug/11 with Ann Chong

Ran out of steam at half way on this. Super steep and long. My Hardest lead so far.
Fred_Richard - Lead RP - 28/Aug/11 with bill turner

Joris.Roulleau - Lead O/S - 28/Aug/11 with Dan Metcalfe

sprinted up this as fast as my little hands would carry me, after hanging around too long on Joyous Gard.
manwithacam - 2nd - 28/Aug/11 with Joris

Excellent climbing! You can get a hands off rest prior to the second overhang.
Pete Nugent - Lead rpt - 27/Aug/11 with Pete Blackburne (Blacky)

Didn't think it was worth the hype! Not a particularly strong line. I suppose the gradient is novel, but there's lots of rests so not too sustained. Looking forward to trying Mother Carey's other offerings
John Tanner - Lead O/S - 26/Aug/11 with Oli Brend

Hidden - Lead O/S - 26/Aug/11

Had to hang on the rope to remove a jammed nut.
owb106 - 2nd dog - 26/Aug/11 with John Tanner

got pumped at the steep bit and then watched it go dark...!
CRiddiford - Lead dog - 22/Aug/11 with Mark

In the dark without headtorch
mark20 - 2nd O/S - 22/Aug/11

JRae - Lead - 22/Aug/11 with M Watson

shoulders - Lead O/S - 14/Aug/11 with dai

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 14/Aug/11

Matthew Robinson - Lead - 14/Aug/11 with Jon

Graeme Hammond - Lead O/S - 14/Aug/11 with james pcc

Not as good as the guide hypes it up to be. Nice positions.
Ollie B - Lead O/S - 14/Aug/11 with L.Postlewaith

steve.warrington - Lead O/S - 30/Jul/11 with Nik Goile

Absolute Grease-fest! Still what a route! MASSIVE holds all the way! Uber-classic!
Duncan Campbell - Lead O/S - 28/Jul/11 with Dave Morse

Definitive HVS. Very good.
Ian Jones - 2nd O/S - 26/Jul/11 with Roger Benton

Struggled with the steepness - slabs are more my thing! Had to rest before working out the crux
jonny taylor - Lead dog - 26/Jul/11 with Andy B

Style of ascent? None. Too hard for me.
ablackett - 26/Jul/11 with Jonny

C coldwell-storry - Lead O/S - 22/Jul/11 with rob lay

3kidsandanorton - 2nd - 03/Jul/11 with Pete Templar

andy dunn - 2nd - 03/Jul/11 with Tom

Perfect conditions if not a little too warm, bottom corner was bone dry and uber grippy. Made good use of the natural rests. No 'hard' individual moves on it and the holds and gear are bomber but it keeps on going and going, fantastic route.
teflonpete - Lead β - 03/Jul/11 with Barry

With Jon Stewart. Probably the equal best route I've ever done - very scary below the roof and intimidating. Ultimately very easy and pretty well protected. A very very exciting lead. Dropped a wire into the sea after the crux and got very wet getting it... Awesome!
James Oswald - Lead O/S - 02/Jul/11 with Jon Stewart

Glyn - Lead O/S - 30/Jun/11 with Luke, Barni

Luke Brooks - 2nd - 30/Jun/11 with Glyn Hudson, Barni

barni - 2nd O/S - 30/Jun/11 with luke, Glyn

Best route in the world.
Dave Foster - 2nd O/S - 22/Jun/11 with Jim

i love big jugs!! :D
vertically_challenged - Lead O/S - 21/Jun/11

Hidden - Lead O/S - 20/Jun/11

robin_hackney - 2nd O/S - 20/Jun/11 with Si

Lenny - 2nd O/S - 18/Jun/11 with John

mountain.martin - 2nd rpt - 04/Jun/11

Hidden - Lead O/S - 02/Jun/11

Roger Cruse - Lead O/S - 01/Jun/11 with Kris

Drew M - Lead - Jun/11

Hidden - Lead - May/11

Dibdawg - Lead O/S - 28/Apr/11 with Mark Sheridan

Aaron Lines - Lead O/S - 24/Apr/11 with alan, stu

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 20/Apr/11

It's the fusion pro glide challenge. WOOH. Hello buddy.
Sgt. Vest - Lead O/S - 10/Apr/11 with Rich bennet

tobydunford - 2nd β - 10/Apr/11 with Harry Martin

Rory Shaw - 2011

Hidden - Lead O/S - 2011

Paul Boggis - Lead - 2011

PAJames - 2011

adie84 - 2011

Hidden - 2011

mwatson - 2011

Hidden - 2nd - 2011

Hidden - Lead O/S - 2011

Hidden - Lead O/S - 26/Sep/10

Hidden - Lead β - 26/Sep/10

andy dunn - 2nd - 12/Sep/10 with J

richardr - Lead O/S - 09/Sep/10

Hidden - 2nd - 08/Sep/10

First roof was wet so climbed around on the face making crux move more like 5b
sam820 - Lead O/S - 08/Sep/10 with Shivertron

Hidden - AltLd O/S - Sep/10

Hidden - 2nd - 30/Aug/10

Owen Pinch - 2nd O/S - 29/Aug/10

mattnuttall - Lead O/S - 29/Aug/10 with Matthew Tink Taylor

Brilliant fun, steep but on great holds and all the moves are readable. Nut slots not obvious if you are not familiar with Pembroke rock but cams work fine and there are some bomber threads that give instant relaxation . Alison on second.
LoopyLou - Lead O/S - 28/Aug/10

Alasdair88 - Lead O/S - 22/Aug/10 with Loz

Dr Caterpillar - 2nd O/S - 22/Aug/10 with Al

Totally awesome. Felt pretty soft, but it goes on forever.
victim of mathematics - Lead O/S - 14/Aug/10 with Jon

Not quiet the best E1(over hyped?), but still very good and an impressive line for e1
catblack - Lead O/S - 14/Aug/10 with Andy Barker

Andrew Barker - 2nd rpt - 14/Aug/10 with Cat Black

Jonny M - 2nd O/S - 14/Aug/10 with Victim of Maths

Awesome line - nicely sustained but straightforward climbing on "the bigest holds in the universe" - loads of absolutely bomber gear - A great route and well worth 3*
andy dunn - Lead O/S - 08/Aug/10 with Alan

Awesome to look at and equally awesome to climb. Epic and crucial climbing career material. Almost certainly 5b at the short roof leftwards (2nd & main crux). I will remember this ascent forever... So will my wife Jenny, (in a nice way I hope!!).
Cragrat Rich - Lead O/S - 27/Jul/10

Hidden - Lead O/S - 27/Jul/10

misskebab - 2nd - Jul/10 with Martin Allen, Edd Reed

Hidden - Lead - 27/Jun/10

Paul Bowen - Lead rpt - 27/Jun/10 with Bethan O'keeffe

Hidden - Lead O/S - 21/Jun/10

Pretty scary seconding on one half rope
Harry Thorpe - 2nd O/S - 15/Jun/10 with Laurence Everitt

Great route, steep juggy fun.
AJM - Lead O/S - 13/Jun/10 with John Eales

Had a nightmare on this,spent 4 hours at the bottom watching the tide slowly coming to get me!
adam coxsell - 2nd - 09/Jun/10 with Gareth

Hidden - Lead dnf - 09/Jun/10

Laurence Everitt - Lead O/S - 09/Jun/10 with Conor Clarke, Cocky

Gareth Clendinning (UBMC) - Lead - 09/Jun/10 with Cocky

Katya - 2nd dog - 31/May/10 with Bryony

Brilliant route for a first E1. So much gear I ran out of draws and accepted a delivery of spares from Ben Jones on the next route. Is this cheating?!
rachcrewe - Lead O/S - 31/May/10

Bry - Lead O/S - 31/May/10 with Kat

Hidden - 2nd - 04/May/10

irish paul - Lead O/S - 03/May/10 with Dave Ripley

Hidden - 2nd rpt - 03/May/10

theotherpetehill - Lead O/S - 02/May/10

Hidden - 2nd - May/10

1 Rest
Sophie Nunn - Lead - 18/Apr/10

great adventure mixed easy climbing.
daniel hobbs - Lead - Apr/10

matt.woodfield - Lead O/S - 13/Mar/10

Seymore Butt - 2010

JulesV - 2nd - 2010

Jessie Rushbrooke - Lead O/S - 13/Oct/09 with GF

Really nice route. good threads
ian d f - Lead O/S - 14/Sep/09 with Pete H

Absolutely brilliant line. Jug fest all the way up. There's a hand traverse before the final overhang, which is confusing and not even on other route but an escape to Joyous Gard. E1 5a doesn't equate to poor gear as the grade suggests. Hard HVS or soft E1 I would say.
Skinny Kin - Lead O/S - 29/Aug/09 with Neil Morbey

Must be one of the best E1s in the country, did feel hard...
jimbonfire - Lead O/S - 29/Aug/09

spidey - 2nd - 29/Aug/09

Hidden - AltLd rpt - 06/Aug/09

belay bunny turned bad - AltLd O/S - 06/Aug/09 with loundsy

Hidden - 2nd - 26/Jul/09

Wet start but amazing route.
haydng - 2nd O/S - 15/Jul/09 with Rob

What a brilliant route...
Shauna - Lead O/S - 28/Jun/09 with Jules

Hidden - Lead O/S - Jun/09

Hidden - Lead - 26/May/09

chiverstom - Lead O/S - 25/May/09 with WIl Treasure

Hidden - 25/May/09

steve.warrington - 2nd O/S - 24/May/09 with Dave Simpson

Hidden - 2nd - 03/May/09

davesimpson - Lead O/S - May/09 with olly buxton

very adventures and awesome route
going going gone - Lead - May/09

Hidden - 2nd - 11/Apr/09

Hidden - Lead O/S - 11/Apr/09

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 02/Apr/09

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 21/Mar/09

keith leonard - 2nd - 2009

mynyddresident - 2nd - 2009

Hidden - 2nd rpt - 26/Sep/08

Oli - 2nd O/S - 26/Sep/08 with John Nuttall

Hidden - Lead O/S - 26/Sep/08

Another perfect day with blue sky and sunshine. Felt intimidated going down the ab to do this route but when you see the line...bloomin fantastic. Great moves on huge, no enormous holds in an out-there position, never pumpy as there are rests all the way and more threads than you'd believe if you hadn't seen them.
PenJD - Lead O/S - 14/Sep/08 with Mark Westerman

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 14/Sep/08

Just superb.
thomasadixon - Lead O/S - 31/Aug/08 with Toby Kluth

Ybot Htulk - 2nd - 31/Aug/08 with Tom Dixon

Cowflinger - 2nd - 30/Aug/08 with Dai Morris

mikeshewring - 2nd β - 30/Aug/08

Martin Haworth - Lead O/S - 29/Aug/08 with Andy

Andrew Sloan - 2nd O/S - 29/Aug/08

Hidden - Lead O/S - 19/Jul/08

spectacular - incredible positions and crazy e5 steepness, but some of the biggest holds (and threads) in the world. bridge pump from stemming out over the void - amazing
lukea - Lead O/S - 15/Jun/08 with dan

Castleclimber - 2nd - 15/Jun/08 with Alastair

Hidden - 2nd - 13/Jun/08

Hidden - Lead O/S - 11/Jun/08

Hidden - 2nd rpt - 11/Jun/08

The Bad Cough - 2nd O/S - 24/May/08 with Lee Bonner

Owen W-G - Lead O/S - 19/May/08 with Gav

Richard Horn - Lead O/S - 18/May/08

spacey - 2nd O/S - 02/May/08 with Clive

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 15/Apr/08

chris wyatt - Lead rpt - 29/Mar/08 with John Bullock

janegallwey - 2nd - 2008

?what year
Adam Booth - Lead O/S - 2008

Fat Tim - Lead O/S - 28/Aug/07 with Sarah Baker

stuwelly85 - Lead rpt - 25/Aug/07 with Jon Freeman

Bella - Lead O/S - 29/Jul/07 with Lucy Ham

Paz - 2nd rpt - 16/Jun/07 with TS

Tim Steward - Lead O/S - 16/Jun/07 with James Parrot

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 07/Jun/07

centurion05 - Lead O/S - Jun/07 with chris thorne

Cocked up the last overhang and took 30 foot fall back down most of the route. Belayed below the small cave and cleanly followed afterwards. Probably HVS if done in such an entertaining fashion.
featuresforfeet - AltLd RP - 06/May/07 with Team Ginger

Overhyped and overrated but still a very good route
cem - Lead O/S - 05/May/07 with Graham Dolman

Rob Kennard - 2007

willjones - Lead O/S - 2007 with nik goile

and john norman,superb route
michael burrows - 2nd - 07/Sep/06 with mike doyle

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 29/Aug/06

GeckoGeek - Lead O/S - 26/Aug/06 with Arin

stuwelly85 - 2nd O/S - 07/Aug/06 with Paul Walters

great climb! ran out of quickdraws (had 11), SO much gear..lots of threads too!
waltersp - Lead O/S - Aug/06 with Stu

david morse - Lead O/S - Aug/06 with rampant

frost - Lead - Aug/06 with D Garry

chris j - Lead dog - 02/Jul/06 with Ben Bradford

dan gibson - Lead O/S - 28/Jun/06 with martina

Hidden - Lead O/S - 27/Jun/06

Mark Riley - 2nd - 12/Jun/06 with Tom Pascall

Paz - Lead O/S - 10/Jun/06 with AR

Boxy - Lead O/S - 29/May/06

Adam Ellwood - Lead O/S - 12/May/06 with Dave Parton

Hidden - Lead O/S - 01/May/06

Awesome line. Good holds but quite strenuous
Bux - Lead O/S - Apr/06 with Mike

Hidden - Lead - Apr/06

Bern - 2006

Hidden - Lead O/S - 2006

feilx - 2006

nathanmanc - Lead O/S - 2006 with Chris Todd

drysori - Lead - 2006

Kev Little - Lead O/S - 2006

Kyuzo - Lead O/S - Nov/05 with Hal Watts

hal - Nov/05

Perfect conditions - very low tide so could scramble over to start - super position especially looking back down the rope to the second.
Dave Reeve - Lead O/S - Sep/05 with Tony Payne

Brown - Lead O/S - 01/Aug/05

Jason Gotel - Lead - Jul/05 with Pippa Lansdown

bronsonite - Lead O/S - 20/May/05 with Johnny McMillen

ferdia - 2nd - 16/Jan/05 with Andrew Wielochowski

Tom Briggs - Jagged Globe - 2005

a_radiohead_fan - 2005

Chad123 - 2005 with Huw

Urgles - Lead O/S - Aug/04 with Jack G

One rest
ASchwirtz - Lead dog - 07/Jun/04

Andrew Barker - Lead O/S - Jun/04 with Claudia Whitcombe

Steve Crowe - Lead O/S - 08/Apr/04 with KM

Hidden - AltLd - 2004

Billg - Lead O/S - 2004

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 2004

Hidden - Lead O/S - Aug/03

Hidden - Lead - 18/Jul/03

LC - Lead O/S - May/03

cornishben - Lead O/S - 2003 with Edouard Vincent

Hidden - Lead - 2003

Hidden - Lead O/S - Aug/02

bullybones - 2002

Pure bloody fantastic
Dave Musgrove Jnr - 2nd O/S - 30/Aug/01 with Viv

phardman - Lead O/S - 25/May/01

Hidden - Lead O/S - May/01

ellis - Lead O/S - May/01 with Chris Ranner

NickJH - Lead O/S - Apr/01

Hidden - 2001

Hidden - Lead O/S - 2001

DubyaJamesDubya - Lead O/S - 18/Jun/00 with Trevor Stevens, Adrian Casey

Hidden - Apr/00

Marti999 - Lead - 2000

Hidden - Lead - 2000

dickypips - Lead O/S - 2000 with Steve James

Tim M - 2000

Bring lots of spare gear to set up the absail. Needs confidence from the second!
andy_pemberton - Lead - 2000 with Katharine Pemberton

Le Chevalier Mal Fet - Lead - Aug/99 with Richard Bower

Hidden - 2nd β - 14/Jul/99

One of the best E1s ever
nickdonohue - Lead - 02/May/99 with James Edwards

and with john the knife
WB - Lead O/S - 01/May/99 with Guy

Hidden - Lead O/S - 09/Apr/99

nige pacer - Lead O/S - 05/Dec/98

Dave Musgrove Jnr - 2nd - 31/Aug/98 with Simon Witcher

Hidden - 2nd - 12/Aug/98

Woody63 - 12/Aug/98 with Dave ;

Hidden - Lead - 1998

Ched - Lead O/S - 1998 with Glanfor

Hidden - 2nd - 1998

Dave Rumney - 1998

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 22/Aug/97

atch - Lead - May/97

NeilGriffiths - 20/Oct/96 with Paul Tucker

craig h - Lead O/S - 13/Sep/96 with Janet Hannah

Colin Edwards - 2nd - Aug/96 with KEVIN TRICKEY, Simon Gough Brown

Colin Edwards - 2nd - 24/Aug/95 with Simon Gough Brown

akamini - 2nd - Jun/95

mikej - Lead - 25/May/95 with Nick Salmon

NeilGriffiths - 1995

Hidden - Lead - 1994

Hidden - Lead - 21/Aug/93

mikej - 2nd - 29/May/91 with Mike Byles

Chris Ellis - 2nd - 13/Nov/89 with Ernie Horrocks

Hidden - Lead - 13/Sep/89

ChrisJD - Lead - 24/Jun/89 with PeteC

Andy Say - Lead O/S - 02/Jun/89

shark - Lead - Apr/89

Mike Owen - 17/Sep/88 with Elaine Owen

RichardMc - Lead O/S - 29/Aug/88 with Daphne Pritchard

steve taylor - Lead - Aug/88 with vic radvills

William Robertson - Lead O/S - 1988 with Emily, Steve, Shaun etc

steve taylor - Lead O/S - Apr/87 with Nicky Beresford

PaulTanton - 2nd - Apr/87 with Bobby Hastings

DDDD - Lead O/S - 1987

andy gittins - 1987

Hidden - 1985

Mark Kemball - Lead - 09/Sep/82 with Steve Finch

Hidden - Lead - 1982

tapley - 2nd - 25/May/81 with John Sumner

Dave Musgrove - Lead - 17/Apr/81 with Kim Greenald

neilh - 2nd - Apr/80

Chris Craggs - Lead - 1980

Hidden - Lead - 01/Jul/69

Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
BHallinan, Julesthe1st, Keith Swainson, jules1990, emdawes, southern_smit, Master Chief, JonnySchofield, Ella7, the power, callumbtaylor, darrenpp, Graham at Aston, Larey, DBoothroyd, edhawk21, jordan taylor, Dan0Me, dj hannaford, TomRiddelsdell, Will Mortimer, druss, poeter210, Tightsgirl, Anne Gumbley, Andy Chubb, hutchay, vix, lem, Phoebus, Wheels, BWoodward, crag_whitelamb, Lilifa, jezb1, DanChad, Ciderslider, Matt250, The Ivanator, Michael Hood, web10steelj, Helen Gibson, crag_hopper_Jay, mattrm, brianrunner, tgeh, Jon Didymus, Rob84, Dave89, tlmarjot, Aid@n, iceaxejuggler, franksnb, Adam_42, woodsy, andrea83, rustaldo, Yanis Nayu, ChrisRGX, johnpr, HIGHTOWER, dansmonkeytroubles, LankyPaddy, AsleepOnBelay, RFWilkie, jaykayus, Alan100, Hexman, funsized, Jo wood, RobRock84, Ceridwen, Danhan, nic42, tobydunford, MattT88, jak.kelly, Diggler, elhix, poey50, Neil Morbey, dcomeau, Russell Lovett, SamStokes, Caralynh, Chris the Tall, Oliver Sherman, Mike H, Flibble

Total votes cast 321
hard E20 of 112
E20 of 112
easy E20 of 112
hard E12 of 112
E188 of 112
easy E120 of 112
hard HVS2 of 112
HVS0 of 112
easy HVS0 of 112
hard 5b0 of 108
5b0 of 108
easy 5b10 of 108
hard 5a55 of 108
5a42 of 108
easy 5a1 of 108
hard 4c0 of 108
4c0 of 108
easy 4c0 of 108
3 Stars95 of 101
2 Stars4 of 101
1 Star2 of 101
0 Stars0 of 101
Bag of .....0 of 101
Please Login as Existing User to rate this climb.
Style of ascent
Alt Leads
Clean O/S
Clean β
Clean repeat
Clean RP