Rockfax Description
The best E1 in Britain? Probably! The line follows the huge corner all the way but on an angle of rock normally reserved for E5s. Start below the corner and climb up to the sloping ledge. Climb the right wall to an overhang. Move around this and continue to another bulge with a line of holds leading out right. Ignore these holds and pull over the daunting bulge above on some of the biggest holds in the universe. Continue straight up the crack and right-leaning groove above to ledges. Climb the crack above to the top, then stand back and beat your chest triumphantly! © Rockfax

FA. P.Littlejohn 5.76 May/1976

Ticklists: Pembroke Rockfax Top 50, 100 best limestone climbs in Britain, UK Extreme Corners, Ultimate E1 ticklist, The BMC 70th Anniversary Ticklist, AMC Uni Ticklist, Caff's Cool E1s List, The Best of Pembroke, The best the UK has to offer for mere mortals (apart from the lakes cos its always wet).


ClimberDateStyle
druss 26/Nov Lead rpt

Superb climb and much more enjoyable in winter sunshine than the heatwave experienced the first time round.

Hidden 26/Nov 2nd rpt
Andrew Sloan 13/Oct 2nd rpt

Caught out by incoming tide; got soaked up to my thighs. Pete led whole route but rebelayed half way up due to rope drag. I'd forgotten how steep the upper section was....a brilliant route.

with pete
rachelpearce01 21/Sep 2nd O/S
Hidden 21/Sep Lead
Hidden 04/Sep Lead O/S
FredTB 04/Sep 2nd
markfairbank 02/Sep Lead O/S
Anne Gumbley 02/Sep 2nd
Lenny 30/Aug 2nd rpt
with Sally & Bryon
bryan61 30/Aug 2nd O/S

brilliant

with leon, sally
Hidden 30/Aug Lead
RichyBOYY 29/Aug Lead O/S

definitely up there for best e1 in the uk - it's soooooo good!

markalmack 29/Aug 2nd rpt
theomoore 29/Aug 2nd

best e1 ever?

williap 29/Aug Lead O/S

Awesome line, 5b seems reasonable to me

WB 29/Aug Lead O/S
jennyjen 26/Aug 2nd
with James
Hidden 26/Aug Lead O/S
Hidden 23/Aug Lead O/S
mikedevcole 07/Aug Lead O/S
Stuart William 07/Aug 2nd
with Mike
Hidden 07/Aug Lead
mrteale 07/Aug 2nd
with Chris M
MD 06/Aug Lead O/S

Had wanted to climb this for a while, was as good as I hoped for. The best climb in Britain, probably not but it's a really good climb.

with Jo
Happy Wanderer 06/Aug 2nd O/S
with Mike D
Francois R 06/Aug Lead

5c. I hope the guidebook is wrong as it is a nice route but not fantastic. There must be better E1s in Britain! The starting crack with the limpets is fun though.

with Pok
Hidden 13/Jul AltLd O/S
Kris2fa 08/Jul Lead O/S

First E1! Good stuff

with Adam24B
Hidden 05/Jul Lead O/S
Lakesben 05/Jul Lead O/S
with Mark
andybirtwistle 05/Jul Lead O/S

32+years since I last led it.A contender for best E1 in Wales

with Sue Birtwistle
John Bunney 04/Jul Lead

Awesome route. Easy to go off route and head rightwards under final overlap, press on up through the massive holds!

with Charlie
charlietorrance 04/Jul 2nd O/S
Martin Bagshaw 03/Jul Lead O/S

Awesome route, I think its a bit more special than the face climbing on the Strait Gate. E1 for the steepness/ intimidation, but the climbing isn't hard.

with Ed Green
Ash Sayers ?/Jul Lead O/S

Put in a belay at top 1/3 of the Route, Paddy led last part

Hidden 18/Jun Lead
pdrums777 17/Jun AltLd G/U

Seconded p1 lead p2. Awesome route! Little polished in some places but we'll protected. felt east for an E1. Wish I'd gone left at the exit. Next time.

with Gareth (trev)
C May 16/Jun 2nd O/S

more like HVS

with Tim
Longsufferingropeholder 16/Jun Lead O/S

All the fun. Looks unlikely at first but it's a romp.

with C May
dom94 09/Jun Lead O/S
amccann 09/Jun 2nd rpt
with Dom
Moritz L 08/Jun 2nd O/S
Dan0Me 08/Jun Lead O/S
CRead 05/Jun 2nd

Ben's first E1!

Hidden 04/Jun 2nd
therat ?/Jun -
Droyd 29/May Lead O/S

The best route I have ever done

with Ian
tim.fairhall 28/May Lead O/S
with Richard
hutchay 28/May Lead O/S
with Matt Hutch, Alex Whitmore
Luxulyan 28/May 2nd
with Tim
Alex Whitmore 28/May 2nd O/S
Hidden 22/May 2nd O/S
Hidden 22/May Lead O/S
Curly Rich 15/May Lead O/S
with gmc
GPN 09/May Lead O/S
with Trad Exchange
Hidden 08/May Lead rpt
Hidden 30/Apr Lead O/S
Will Hunt 30/Apr 2nd O/S

Traversed into the refugee belay after abseiling into the high tide start of Strait Gate

tessa teapot ??/2016 -
Hidden 01/Nov/15 2nd dog
DubyaJamesDubya 10/Oct/15 2nd rpt

Even better than I remembered.

with Joe Harris
gurumed 27/Sep/15 Lead O/S

Amazing.

with Brian H
AndrewP 27/Sep/15 Lead O/S

Superb route. Still trying to think of a better HVS or E1 and haven't thought of one yet. Would be a good choice for a first E1.

Hidden 27/Sep/15 2nd O/S
FelixPeterken 27/Sep/15 2nd O/S

Absolutely awesome

with AndrewP
Hidden 26/Sep/15 2nd O/S
cdpuk 25/Sep/15 Lead O/S
Hidden 25/Sep/15 2nd O/S
Hidden 20/Sep/15 Lead O/S
Hidden 18/Sep/15 Lead O/S
southern_smit 18/Sep/15 Lead

great climbing

quiffhanger 31/Aug/15 Lead O/S

Finally managed to get on it after years of finding an in-situ team whenever I tried. Perfect conditions on the bank holiday Monday and only 1 other team on the entire crag. Worth every bit of the high-tide faff we had to get to the base.

with Rachel
Hidden 30/Aug/15 Lead O/S
jon_gill1 30/Aug/15 Lead O/S

climbed in the wet, Fantastic route!!!! Mega jugs on second half!

with chris Lyness
Richard Kendrick 30/Aug/15 2nd O/S
with Nick Loc
Palindrome 30/Aug/15 2nd dog

Struggled on the big roof...

pete1993 17/Aug/15 Lead rpt

Nothing too hard just intimidating

with Dawn
pete1993 17/Aug/15 2nd rpt

To take the gear out

with Dawn
amccann 17/Aug/15 Lead O/S
Dawn_K_B 17/Aug/15 Lead β

On Pete's gear as we both wanted to lead it. Great climbing, really varied and just hard/sustained enough to get E1.

Hidden 17/Aug/15 2nd O/S
luke glaister 16/Aug/15 2nd rpt

Well in kc. Your first e1 and done in style. I love this route. Great gear And holds all the way through some steep ass terrain. Brilliant.

casey johns 16/Aug/15 Lead rpt

awesome

with Jimmy smith, luke glaister
DanChad 12/Aug/15 Lead O/S

I don't know about Britain, but it's the best E1 I've ever done!

Le Chevalier Mal Fet 12/Aug/15 2nd

Awesome. As ever.

benkelsey 11/Aug/15 2nd O/S

4 stars for position, didn't think the climbing flowed too well though

with Shaun Humphreys
shaunhumphreys 11/Aug/15 Lead O/S
aiyer 08/Aug/15 Lead O/S

First E1 OS! So chuffed. Excellent climb, felt great on it! With Rich and Dave

dicky79 08/Aug/15 Lead O/S
with Mark Nicholson
NickST 02/Aug/15 2nd
callumbtaylor 22/Jul/15 Lead O/S

E5 territory but at E1...so sick.

Avon Man 18/Jul/15 Lead O/S

Slightly disappointing given all the hype. Maybe it was the fact that the route is escapable at the top and you can have a siesta halfway up.

with Derek
sparbus 17/Jul/15 Lead
with mike b
Hidden 15/Jul/15 Lead O/S
Dan724 23/Jun/15 2nd O/S
with Dan Ely
LJC 21/Jun/15 Lead O/S
with Greg
tmawer 21/Jun/15 2nd rpt

Brilliant.

with Bram
BTphonehome 21/Jun/15 Lead O/S

Big route, big holds, big atmosphere. Brilliant. Cheers to Luca and Greg for holding on whilst we used your abseil into the abyss.

with Tony
M_Robinson 16/Jun/15 Lead O/S
james1978 14/Jun/15 Lead O/S
with pam
Cheese Monkey 06/Jun/15 2nd rpt
with Ric E
roberto18 28/May/15 Lead O/S
with Dad (Mike Bridges)
Ian MK 26/May/15 Lead O/S
with Anna
Cheese Monkey 25/May/15 Lead O/S
with Ric E
Dunx 25/May/15 Lead O/S
with Jake Thompsett
Anna Maykova 25/May/15 2nd
with Ian
Duncan Campbell 23/May/15 2nd rpt
martinlevya82 23/May/15 2nd O/S
FlavioL1989 22/May/15 Lead O/S

Super, great atmosphere with the fog.

Andy Peak 1 12/May/15 2nd

Wild

admackie 12/May/15 Lead O/S

wowzer

with andy
luke glaister 18/Apr/15 Lead O/S

3***s are nailed on this route. Great gear great holds. Big moves. Always a rest and gear but steep enough to not mess around on. Are first visit to the area and it's become a favorite. X

casey johns 18/Apr/15 2nd O/S
Hidden 16/Apr/15 Solo O/S
Hidden 06/Apr/15 Lead O/S
Ian1987 05/Apr/15 2nd O/S
markalmack 05/Apr/15 Lead O/S

pretty fucking good!

with ian
drysori 04/Apr/15 2nd
Graeme Hammond 04/Apr/15 2nd rpt
with Phil Baxter, Alex Twist
misterb ?/Apr/15 Lead O/S
with justin
Hidden ?/Apr/15 -
Hidden ??/2015 Lead
gingernick ??/2015 Lead

Again. Brilliant climbing

with Darrell
duncandarnell 26/Sep/14 Lead O/S
with jord smith
jon22 24/Sep/14 Lead
manxclare 24/Sep/14 2nd
with jon22
Hidden 21/Sep/14 Lead O/S
Hidden 20/Sep/14 2nd dnf
Hidden 15/Sep/14 Lead O/S
nathanlee 15/Sep/14 2nd
spidermonkey09 10/Sep/14 Lead

Finally! Unbelievable route, massive holds. Will never forget pulling over the roof on those massive buckets for holds. Brilliant!

druss 07/Sep/14 Lead dog

Took the HVS escape route through the cave. Was baking on the wall and didn't have the mental and physical energy to pull through the final overhang - just scared to risk taking a big fall! :)

arthur_de_briton 23/Aug/14 Lead
with cat mckenna
philhilo 23/Aug/14 2nd O/S

Looked at drizzle for some time before we commited. Had to move off bottom ledge as tide coming in faaaast... Epic jug fest.

with Helen E
AdamCB 19/Aug/14 2nd
Duncan Campbell 16/Aug/14 2nd rpt
with GuyVG
Hidden 16/Aug/14 Lead O/S
mynyddresident 15/Aug/14 2nd rpt
with KP
Steven Carter 08/Aug/14 Lead O/S
Hidden ?/Aug/14 2nd β
Adam24B ?/Aug/14 Lead O/S
Hidden 31/Jul/14 Lead O/S
owain86 29/Jul/14 Lead O/S
with Will
wi11 29/Jul/14 2nd β
hazeysunshine 28/Jul/14 2nd O/S
with Alex
brices 26/Jul/14 2nd rpt
with Mike
elCapitano 22/Jul/14 Lead O/S

Very good. But thought 'The Arrow' was better at E1.

with Coatesy
Richard P Coates 22/Jul/14 2nd O/S
Hidden 21/Jul/14 Lead O/S
Hidden 21/Jul/14 2nd
adam 24 15/Jun/14 2nd O/S

Outrageous line for an E1

with Paul Clarkson
henry.jeffreys 13/Jun/14 Lead dog

Fell from slabby groove after the bulges. Whoops

Coops_13 10/Jun/14 Lead O/S
chappers909 05/Jun/14 2nd
Dan Geh 05/Jun/14 Lead O/S
with Paddy, Will
Patrick Hill 05/Jun/14 2nd O/S
with Dan Geh
Ramon Marin 01/Jun/14 Lead rpt

Did it again coaching Viki on her first trad weekend

with viki harvey
Ramon Marin 26/May/14 Lead O/S

did it with a minimal rack as we did it to exit after my fail on Klingon, so added to the spice. Amazing route

Hidden 25/May/14 2nd
Hidden 24/May/14 Lead rpt
Ed morris 21/May/14 2nd rpt
with stefan
Stefan_Morris 21/May/14 Lead O/S
jonleighton 14/May/14 Lead O/S
Hidden 13/May/14 2nd
Short&Savage 04/May/14 Lead O/S
Hidden 04/May/14 2nd O/S
frank mckenna 04/May/14 -
The Reaper 04/May/14 Lead O/S
Hidden 25/Apr/14 Lead
Tom Livingstone 20/Apr/14 2nd β
with John Cook
Brannock 19/Apr/14 Lead O/S

The biggest holds in Britain? Great line, great climbing, never to hard, never to easy, brilliant.

Maken 18/Apr/14 2nd O/S
alastairbegley 12/Apr/14 Lead O/S

Fantastic climb!

Nick Russell 12/Apr/14 Lead O/S

Brilliant, hard work. Started at the refuge belay due to incoming tide.

Slick 12/Apr/14 2nd

Thuggy. Spent ages on left arm trying to take some gear out - didn't really recover all weekend! Really nice route, although was a little damp in places.

SJS 12/Apr/14 2nd
with Nick
Jonny Nick 16/Mar/14 Lead O/S
Hidden ??/2014 2nd O/S
Tim Sparrow ??/2014 -
mike mo ??/2014 -
Hidden 06/Oct/13 2nd O/S
Kirill 06/Oct/13 Lead O/S

Really really good. Sustained, varied and looks great.

Sardien 06/Oct/13 Lead O/S

Superhappy with this, what a climb what a day! Lots of deserted birdsnests all over the route

gjd 30/Sep/13 Lead O/S
with Ronnie
Hidden 23/Sep/13 2nd
RCrockford 20/Sep/13 Lead dnf

Took a whipper off crux, busted ankle.

with Graham
Alex the Alex 14/Sep/13 Lead rpt

Such a good route! Monkeyed around on the overhang. Looking down is impressive/dizzying.

Andrew Wilson 28/Aug/13 Lead O/S
Joughton 25/Aug/13 Lead O/S

WOW.

Hidden 25/Aug/13 Lead O/S
Jim Slater 25/Aug/13 Lead O/S

Pretty cool..

with Trevor Wilson
UnkArl 24/Aug/13 Lead O/S
with Matt
rd20 22/Aug/13 2nd O/S
with Rachel Somerville
Rachel S 22/Aug/13 Lead O/S

brilliant jug fest with at least 2 hands off rests.

with Robert
twoplates 22/Aug/13 2nd O/S
with Josh, Neil MacKay
Rob84 21/Aug/13 2nd dog
with Rob Adie
Rob84 21/Aug/13 Lead dnf

Got scared halfway up and bailed - lame!

with Rob Adie
Justin T 11/Aug/13 Lead O/S
with Sue
Hidden 11/Aug/13 2nd
Steeve 07/Aug/13 Lead dnf
Lessworkmoreclimbing 07/Aug/13 Lead O/S

Seconded many years ago so felt like onsight! Had been meaning to do this climb for years. Felt great. Didn't remember doing the initial crack upto the sloping ledge before - found it a challenge to get off the ground, involving bridging on a limpet which dropped off when I took my foot off it, sorry limpet!

with Kev
TomMorgan 04/Aug/13 2nd O/S
james.slater 03/Aug/13 Lead O/S

Fantastic and sustained! The climbing is incredibly rewarding and interesting! Got very pumped and it took me a while to lead this beast!

Chriswallis2 29/Jul/13 Lead O/S
JonathanJones 29/Jul/13 2nd O/S
Dilwat 27/Jul/13 Lead O/S
with Nick
nickdonohue 27/Jul/13 2nd
The Grist 23/Jul/13 Lead O/S
Sam Simpson 23/Jul/13 2nd O/S
asmith37 14/Jul/13 Lead O/S
with Mike Grant
Hidden 12/Jul/13 2nd β
brices 12/Jul/13 Lead O/S

Such good positions for the grade

with Sash
joese7en ?/Jul/13 AltLd O/S
dominic lee 28/Jun/13 2nd
with andy elliot
Jake Young 19/Jun/13 2nd rpt
tommytuffa 18/Jun/13 Lead O/S
with Libby
remus 14/Jun/13 Lead O/S

Little bit of grease kept it interesting.

Andrew1 09/Jun/13 Lead
with Hulda
r_o_b_h2 08/Jun/13 Lead O/S
with Nik Goile
Hulda 08/Jun/13 2nd O/S
with Andi
guy757 05/Jun/13 -
RachelP 04/Jun/13 2nd
andy dunn 05/May/13 Lead rpt
with J
Chi Cheng 02/May/13 2nd rpt
with Adam Knightly
Olli-C 02/May/13 Lead O/S
Rachel Slater 02/May/13 2nd rpt
Hidden ?/May/13 2nd
Nick Biven ??/2013 -
jcw ??/2013 -
Hidden ??/2013 -
VPJB ??/2013 -
Alan100 20/Oct/12 Lead

Great route. Found the first half harder than it looked and was glad to have a sit down on the ledge between bulges. Second bulge felt nicely exposed with proper 3 dimensional climbing.

Alex179 20/Oct/12 2nd

Moved onto the HVS to the right at the bulge

Ed morris 20/Sep/12 Lead O/S
with Dickon
nickstephens 20/Sep/12 2nd O/S
gg4419 20/Sep/12 Lead O/S
with Nick
Dangerous Dave 19/Sep/12 2nd O/S
with Dave O
dave o 19/Sep/12 Lead O/S
Ed Babs 18/Sep/12 2nd O/S

Vertical side wall means you don't really ave to climb any steep stuff, except that bulge...

with AlexD
AlexD 18/Sep/12 Lead O/S
with Ed
Graham Westbrook 03/Sep/12 Lead O/S
Alex the Alex ?/Sep/12 2nd
Cardi 30/Aug/12 2nd O/S
with Tom R
Hidden 11/Aug/12 Lead O/S
stephenarnold 11/Aug/12 2nd dog

Hard and very steep wasn't strong enough for sustained steep climbing!

Rosea Day ?/Aug/12 Lead O/S
Hidden 29/Jul/12 Lead
Hidden 29/Jul/12 2nd O/S
Hidden 28/Jul/12 2nd O/S
Dizz 28/Jul/12 Lead O/S

Finished on HVS as this is the obvious line - still excellent, looking forward to returning for other finish(es!

Binder 28/Jul/12 2nd O/S
mike lawrence? 09/Jul/12 Lead
with James the Navigator
pembrokeshirecaver 04/Jun/12 2nd rpt
with John Bennetts
jiggerypokery 02/Jun/12 AltLd dog

Stood on a shell and decked out! had to lower off and set up a belay on the ledge to avoid the tide. epic

Alex Munnery 23/May/12 AltLd dnf

finished on the HVS to the right of Rock Idol.

with NathanW
Hidden 06/May/12 2nd O/S
CragDog 06/May/12 Lead dog
NathanW ?/May/12 AltLd

Finished on hvs next door.

pembrokeshirecaver 24/Apr/12 Lead O/S

Laybacked the entire crux roof, felt very committing. Aparently there is a jug out right which allows easier moves.

with Martin
sara n 13/Apr/12 Lead O/S

Lovely climb! Generous E1, excellent gear - take LOTS of threads and don't be intimidate by the view when standing at the bottom.

with Karl Blanchet
Hardcore Pat 11/Apr/12 Lead O/S
with Chris Vanderz
Rachel Slater 08/Apr/12 Lead O/S

awesome route :)

Hidden 08/Apr/12 2nd
melonmike 08/Apr/12 Lead O/S
with liam brown
Dean177 08/Apr/12 Lead O/S
Dibdawg 08/Apr/12 2nd O/S
Chi Cheng 08/Apr/12 2nd O/S
pie_eater_pete 06/Apr/12 Lead O/S
with bwestwood
Pippa 06/Apr/12 Lead O/S
with Tink
bwestwood ?/Apr/12 2nd
ben1987 ?/Apr/12 -
esther ?/Apr/12 Lead
Adam Coles ?/Apr/12 Lead
with ben1987
Hidden 26/Mar/12 2nd
stvredmond 26/Mar/12 Lead
Nick1812P 11/Mar/12 Lead O/S
with Anna
JRae 11/Mar/12 Lead

After paul had a massive whipper.

with Paul M
pete1993 11/Mar/12 2nd O/S
Jake Young 11/Mar/12 Lead O/S
pmurdy 11/Mar/12 2nd RP

Took a huge whipper on lead after being sent the wrong way at the crux. Found it easier when on second and going the right way!

with Jonny Reay
Adam Coles ?/Mar/12 Lead O/S
al99 26/Feb/12 2nd O/S
with Luke Hodson
lukehodson 26/Feb/12 Lead O/S

Wow

Tony Kartawick ??/2012 -
Hidden 16/Oct/11 Lead O/S
Wil.Hooke 16/Oct/11 2nd O/S

Had to traverse out at the second roof to retrieve gear but got back without any problems (just a bit of pump)

with Dan Wicks, Olly
cat22 29/Sep/11 2nd O/S
with Mike
Hidden 15/Sep/11 Lead O/S
Hidden 15/Sep/11 2nd
Hidden 01/Sep/11 Lead O/S
annetweddell 31/Aug/11 2nd
with Jeff
Hidden 29/Aug/11 Lead O/S
Hidden 29/Aug/11 2nd O/S
mariannekhoo 29/Aug/11 2nd dog

Had to rest on the rope halfway up as Sebastien had the rope on either side of a bulge, couldn't hear me yelling and I couldn't move in either direction up the overhang!

Sebastien Gastaud 29/Aug/11 Lead O/S
Mr Sparkle 29/Aug/11 Lead O/S
with Liam Byrne
givemetea 28/Aug/11 2nd O/S
with Ann Chong
Fred_Richard 28/Aug/11 Lead RP

Ran out of steam at half way on this. Super steep and long. My Hardest lead so far.

with bill turner
Joris.Roulleau 28/Aug/11 Lead O/S
manwithacam 28/Aug/11 2nd

sprinted up this as fast as my little hands would carry me, after hanging around too long on Joyous Gard.

with Joris
Pete Nugent 27/Aug/11 Lead rpt

Excellent climbing! You can get a hands off rest prior to the second overhang.

with Pete Blackburne (Blacky)
John Tanner 26/Aug/11 Lead O/S

Didn't think it was worth the hype! Not a particularly strong line. I suppose the gradient is novel, but there's lots of rests so not too sustained. Looking forward to trying Mother Carey's other offerings

with Oli Brend
Hidden 26/Aug/11 Lead O/S
owb106 26/Aug/11 2nd dog

Had to hang on the rope to remove a jammed nut.

CRiddiford 22/Aug/11 Lead dog

got pumped at the steep bit and then watched it go dark...!

with Mark
mark20 22/Aug/11 2nd O/S

In the dark without headtorch

JRae 22/Aug/11 Lead
shoulders 14/Aug/11 Lead O/S
with dai
Hidden 14/Aug/11 2nd O/S
Hidden 14/Aug/11 Lead
Graeme Hammond 14/Aug/11 Lead O/S
Ollie B 14/Aug/11 Lead O/S

Not as good as the guide hypes it up to be. Nice positions.

with L.Postlewaith
steve.warrington 30/Jul/11 Lead O/S
Duncan Campbell 28/Jul/11 Lead O/S

Absolute Grease-fest! Still what a route! MASSIVE holds all the way! Uber-classic!

Ian Jones 26/Jul/11 2nd O/S

Definitive HVS. Very good.

with Roger Benton
jonny taylor 26/Jul/11 Lead dog

Struggled with the steepness - slabs are more my thing! Had to rest before working out the crux

with Andy B
ablackett 26/Jul/11 -

Style of ascent? None. Too hard for me.

with Jonny
C coldwell-storry 22/Jul/11 Lead O/S
with rob lay
3kidsandanorton 03/Jul/11 2nd
with Pete Templar
andy dunn 03/Jul/11 2nd
with Tom
teflonpete 03/Jul/11 Lead β

Perfect conditions if not a little too warm, bottom corner was bone dry and uber grippy. Made good use of the natural rests. No 'hard' individual moves on it and the holds and gear are bomber but it keeps on going and going, fantastic route.

with Barry
James Oswald 02/Jul/11 Lead O/S

With Jon Stewart. Probably the equal best route I've ever done - very scary below the roof and intimidating. Ultimately very easy and pretty well protected. A very very exciting lead. Dropped a wire into the sea after the crux and got very wet getting it... Awesome!

Glyn 30/Jun/11 Lead O/S
with Luke, Barni
Luke Brooks 30/Jun/11 2nd
with Glyn Hudson, Barni
barni 30/Jun/11 2nd O/S
with luke, Glyn
Dave Foster 22/Jun/11 2nd O/S

Best route in the world.

with Jim
vertically_challenged 21/Jun/11 Lead O/S

i love big jugs!! :D

Hidden 20/Jun/11 Lead O/S
robin_hackney 20/Jun/11 2nd O/S
with Si
Lenny 18/Jun/11 2nd O/S
with John
mountain.martin 04/Jun/11 2nd rpt
Hidden 02/Jun/11 Lead O/S
Roger Cruse 01/Jun/11 Lead O/S
with Kris
Drew M ?/Jun/11 Lead
Hidden ?/May/11 Lead
Hidden ?/May/11 Lead O/S
Dibdawg 28/Apr/11 Lead O/S
with Mark Sheridan
Aaron Lines 24/Apr/11 Lead O/S
with alan, stu
Hidden 20/Apr/11 2nd O/S
Sgt. Vest 10/Apr/11 Lead O/S

It's the fusion pro glide challenge. WOOH. Hello buddy.

tobydunford 10/Apr/11 2nd β
with Harry Martin
Hidden 10/Apr/11 2nd O/S
Rory Shaw ??/2011 -
Hidden ??/2011 Lead O/S
Paul Boggis ??/2011 Lead
PAJames ??/2011 -
adie84 ??/2011 -
Hidden ??/2011 -
mwatson ??/2011 -
Hidden ??/2011 2nd
richgibson ??/2011 Lead O/S
with John
Hidden 26/Sep/10 Lead O/S
Hidden 26/Sep/10 Lead β
andy dunn 12/Sep/10 2nd
with J
richardr 09/Sep/10 Lead O/S
Hidden 08/Sep/10 2nd
sam820 08/Sep/10 Lead O/S

First roof was wet so climbed around on the face making crux move more like 5b

with Shivertron
Hidden ?/Sep/10 AltLd O/S
Hidden 30/Aug/10 2nd
Owen Pinch 29/Aug/10 2nd O/S
mattnuttall 29/Aug/10 Lead O/S

Ace.

with Matthew Tink Taylor
LoopyLou 28/Aug/10 Lead O/S

Brilliant fun, steep but on great holds and all the moves are readable. Nut slots not obvious if you are not familiar with Pembroke rock but cams work fine and there are some bomber threads that give instant relaxation . Alison on second.

Alasdair88 22/Aug/10 Lead O/S
with Loz
Dr Caterpillar 22/Aug/10 2nd O/S
with Al
victim of mathematics 14/Aug/10 Lead O/S

Totally awesome. Felt pretty soft, but it goes on forever.

with Jon
catblack 14/Aug/10 Lead O/S

Not quiet the best E1(over hyped?), but still very good and an impressive line for e1

Andrew Barker 14/Aug/10 2nd rpt
Jonny M 14/Aug/10 2nd O/S
andy dunn 08/Aug/10 Lead O/S

Awesome line - nicely sustained but straightforward climbing on "the bigest holds in the universe" - loads of absolutely bomber gear - A great route and well worth 3*

with Alan
Cragrat Rich 27/Jul/10 Lead O/S

Awesome to look at and equally awesome to climb. Epic and crucial climbing career material. Almost certainly 5b at the short roof leftwards (2nd & main crux). I will remember this ascent forever... So will my wife Jenny, (in a nice way I hope!!).

Hidden 27/Jul/10 Lead O/S
misskebab ?/Jul/10 2nd
with Martin Allen, Edd Reed
Hidden 27/Jun/10 Lead
Paul Bowen 27/Jun/10 Lead rpt
with Bethan O'keeffe
Hidden 21/Jun/10 Lead O/S
Harry Thorpe 15/Jun/10 2nd O/S

Pretty scary seconding on one half rope

AJM 13/Jun/10 Lead O/S

Great route, steep juggy fun.

adam coxsell 09/Jun/10 2nd

Had a nightmare on this,spent 4 hours at the bottom watching the tide slowly coming to get me!

with Gareth
Hidden 09/Jun/10 Lead dnf
Laurence Everitt 09/Jun/10 Lead O/S
gnc760 09/Jun/10 Lead
with Cocky
Katya 31/May/10 2nd dog
with Bryony
rachcrewe 31/May/10 Lead O/S

Brilliant route for a first E1. So much gear I ran out of draws and accepted a delivery of spares from Ben Jones on the next route. Is this cheating?!

Bry 31/May/10 Lead O/S
with Kat
Hidden 04/May/10 2nd
irish paul 03/May/10 Lead O/S
with Dave Ripley
Hidden 03/May/10 2nd rpt
theotherpetehill 02/May/10 Lead O/S

Awesome!

Hidden ?/May/10 2nd
Sophie Nunn 18/Apr/10 Lead

1 Rest

daniel hobbs ?/Apr/10 Lead

great adventure mixed easy climbing.

matt.woodfield 13/Mar/10 Lead O/S
Seymore Butt ??/2010 -
JulesV ??/2010 2nd
Jessie Rushbrooke 13/Oct/09 Lead O/S
with GF
ian d f 14/Sep/09 Lead O/S

Really nice route. good threads

with Pete H
Hidden 07/Sep/09 2nd rpt
Skinny Kin 29/Aug/09 Lead O/S

Absolutely brilliant line. Jug fest all the way up. There's a hand traverse before the final overhang, which is confusing and not even on other route but an escape to Joyous Gard. E1 5a doesn't equate to poor gear as the grade suggests. Hard HVS or soft E1 I would say.

jimbonfire 29/Aug/09 Lead O/S

Must be one of the best E1s in the country, did feel hard...

spidey 29/Aug/09 2nd
Hidden 06/Aug/09 AltLd rpt
belay bunny turned bad 06/Aug/09 AltLd O/S
with loundsy
Hidden 26/Jul/09 2nd
haydng 15/Jul/09 2nd O/S

Wet start but amazing route.

with Rob
Shauna 28/Jun/09 Lead O/S

What a brilliant route...

with Jules
Hidden ?/Jun/09 Lead O/S
brockers 26/May/09 Lead

Superb climb

with Guido
chiverstom 25/May/09 Lead O/S
Hidden 25/May/09 -
drysori 25/May/09 2nd
steve.warrington 24/May/09 2nd O/S
with Dave Simpson
Hidden 03/May/09 2nd
davesimpson ?/May/09 Lead O/S
with olly buxton
going going gone ?/May/09 Lead

very adventures and awesome route

Hidden 11/Apr/09 2nd
Hidden 11/Apr/09 Lead O/S
Hidden 02/Apr/09 2nd O/S
Hidden 21/Mar/09 2nd O/S
keith leonard ??/2009 2nd
mynyddresident ??/2009 2nd
Hidden ??/2009 -
Hidden 26/Sep/08 2nd rpt
Hidden 26/Sep/08 2nd O/S
Hidden 26/Sep/08 Lead O/S
PenJD 14/Sep/08 Lead O/S

Another perfect day with blue sky and sunshine. Felt intimidated going down the ab to do this route but when you see the line...bloomin fantastic. Great moves on huge, no enormous holds in an out-there position, never pumpy as there are rests all the way and more threads than you'd believe if you hadn't seen them.

Hidden 14/Sep/08 2nd O/S
thomasadixon 31/Aug/08 Lead O/S

Just superb.

Ybot Htulk 31/Aug/08 2nd
with Tom Dixon
Cowflinger 30/Aug/08 2nd
with Dai Morris
mikeshewring 30/Aug/08 2nd β
Martin Haworth 29/Aug/08 Lead O/S
with Andy
Andrew Sloan 29/Aug/08 2nd O/S
Hidden 19/Jul/08 Lead O/S
lukea 15/Jun/08 Lead O/S

spectacular - incredible positions and crazy e5 steepness, but some of the biggest holds (and threads) in the world. bridge pump from stemming out over the void - amazing

with dan
Castleclimber 15/Jun/08 2nd
with Alastair
Bob M 13/Jun/08 2nd
Hidden 11/Jun/08 Lead O/S
Hidden 11/Jun/08 2nd rpt
The Bad Cough 24/May/08 2nd O/S
with Lee Bonner
Owen W-G 19/May/08 Lead O/S
with Gav
Richard Horn 18/May/08 Lead O/S
spacey 02/May/08 2nd O/S
with Clive
Hidden 15/Apr/08 2nd O/S
chris wyatt 29/Mar/08 Lead rpt
with John Bullock
janegallwey ??/2008 2nd
Adam Booth ??/2008 Lead O/S

?what year

Fat Tim 28/Aug/07 Lead O/S
stuwelly85 25/Aug/07 Lead rpt
Bella 29/Jul/07 Lead O/S
with Lucy Ham
Paz 16/Jun/07 2nd rpt
with TS
Tim Steward 16/Jun/07 Lead O/S
with James Parrot
Hidden 07/Jun/07 2nd O/S
centurion05 ?/Jun/07 Lead O/S
with chris thorne
featuresforfeet 06/May/07 AltLd RP

Cocked up the last overhang and took 30 foot fall back down most of the route. Belayed below the small cave and cleanly followed afterwards. Probably HVS if done in such an entertaining fashion.

with Team Ginger
cem 05/May/07 Lead O/S

Overhyped and overrated but still a very good route

Hidden 04/May/07 Lead O/S
Rob Kennard ??/2007 -
willjones ??/2007 Lead O/S
with nik goile
michael burrows 07/Sep/06 2nd

and john norman,superb route

Hidden 29/Aug/06 2nd O/S
GeckoGeek 26/Aug/06 Lead O/S
with Arin
stuwelly85 07/Aug/06 2nd O/S
with Paul Walters
waltersp ?/Aug/06 Lead O/S

great climb! ran out of quickdraws (had 11), SO much gear..lots of threads too!

with Stu
david morse ?/Aug/06 Lead O/S
with rampant
frost ?/Aug/06 Lead
with D Garry
chris j 02/Jul/06 Lead dog
with Ben Bradford
dan gibson 28/Jun/06 Lead O/S
with martina
Hidden 27/Jun/06 Lead O/S
Mark Riley 12/Jun/06 2nd
with Tom Pascall
Paz 10/Jun/06 Lead O/S
with AR
Boxy 29/May/06 Lead O/S
Adam Ellwood 12/May/06 Lead O/S
Hidden 01/May/06 Lead O/S
Bux ?/Apr/06 Lead O/S

Awesome line. Good holds but quite strenuous

with Mike
Hidden ?/Apr/06 Lead
Hidden ??/2006 -
Hidden ??/2006 Lead O/S
feilx ??/2006 -
nathanmanc ??/2006 Lead O/S
with Chris Todd
drysori ??/2006 Lead
Kev Little ??/2006 Lead O/S
Ricky Rocks ??/2006 Lead O/S
Kyuzo ?/Nov/05 Lead O/S
with Hal Watts
hal ?/Nov/05 -
Dave Reeve ?/Sep/05 Lead O/S

Perfect conditions - very low tide so could scramble over to start - super position especially looking back down the rope to the second.

with Tony Payne
Brown 01/Aug/05 Lead O/S
Jason Gotel ?/Jul/05 Lead
with Pippa Lansdown
bronsonite 20/May/05 Lead O/S
with Johnny McMillen
ferdia 16/Jan/05 2nd
with Andrew Wielochowski
Tom Briggs - Jagged Globe ??/2005 -
a_radiohead_fan ??/2005 -
Chad123 ??/2005 -
with Huw
Ratfeeder 07/Sep/04 Lead O/S
with Phil
Mark Davies PK ?/Aug/04 Lead O/S
with Jack G
ASchwirtz 07/Jun/04 Lead dog

One rest

Andrew Barker ?/Jun/04 Lead O/S
with Claudia Whitcombe
Steve Crowe 08/Apr/04 Lead O/S
with KM
Hidden ??/2004 AltLd
Billg ??/2004 Lead O/S
Hidden ??/2004 2nd O/S
Hidden ?/Aug/03 Lead O/S
Hidden 18/Jul/03 Lead
LC ?/May/03 Lead O/S
cornishben ??/2003 Lead O/S
with Edouard Vincent
Hidden ??/2003 Lead
Hidden ?/Aug/02 Lead O/S
Bullybones ??/2002 -
Dave Musgrove Jnr 30/Aug/01 2nd O/S

Pure bloody fantastic

with Viv
phardman 25/May/01 Lead O/S
Hidden ?/May/01 Lead O/S
ellis ?/May/01 Lead O/S
with Chris Ranner
NickJH ?/Apr/01 Lead O/S
Hidden ??/2001 -
Hidden ??/2001 Lead O/S
DubyaJamesDubya 18/Jun/00 Lead O/S

Wow!

with Trevor Stevens, Adrian Casey
timbanton ?/Apr/00 -
Marti999 ??/2000 Lead
Hidden ??/2000 Lead
dickypips ??/2000 Lead O/S
with Steve James
Tim M ??/2000 -
andy_pemberton ??/2000 Lead

Bring lots of spare gear to set up the absail. Needs confidence from the second!

with Katharine Pemberton
Hidden ??/2000 -
Le Chevalier Mal Fet ?/Aug/99 Lead
with Richard Bower
Hidden 14/Jul/99 2nd β
nickdonohue 02/May/99 Lead

One of the best E1s ever

with James Edwards
WB 01/May/99 Lead O/S

and with john the knife

with Guy
duncan 09/Apr/99 Lead O/S
with Dan Donovan
nige pacer 05/Dec/98 Lead O/S
Dave Musgrove Jnr 31/Aug/98 2nd
Hidden 12/Aug/98 2nd
Woody63 12/Aug/98 -
with Dave ;
rc ??/1998 Lead
Ched ??/1998 Lead O/S
with Glanfor
Hidden ??/1998 2nd
Dave Rumney ??/1998 -
Hidden 22/Aug/97 2nd O/S
atch ?/May/97 Lead
NeilGriffiths 20/Oct/96 -
with Paul Tucker
craig h 13/Sep/96 Lead O/S
with Janet Hannah
Colin Edwards ?/Aug/96 2nd
with KEVIN TRICKEY, Simon Gough Brown
Steve Clegg 08/Oct/95 Lead
with Mrs C
Colin Edwards 24/Aug/95 2nd
with Simon Gough Brown
akamini ?/Jun/95 2nd
mikej 25/May/95 Lead
with Nick Salmon
NeilGriffiths ??/1995 -
Hidden ??/1994 Lead
Hidden 21/Aug/93 Lead
mikej 29/May/91 2nd
with Mike Byles
Eduardo Martinez ??/1991 Lead O/S
Chris Ellis 13/Nov/89 2nd
with Ernie Horrocks
Hidden 13/Sep/89 Lead
Hidden 24/Jun/89 Lead
Andy Say 02/Jun/89 Lead O/S
ukb shark ?/Apr/89 Lead
Mike Owen 17/Sep/88 Lead O/S
with Elaine Owen
RichardMc 29/Aug/88 Lead O/S
with Daphne Pritchard
steve taylor ?/Aug/88 Lead
with vic radvills
William Robertson ??/1988 Lead O/S
with Emily, Steve, Shaun etc
steve taylor ?/Apr/87 Lead O/S
with Nicky Beresford
PaulTanton ?/Apr/87 2nd
with Bobby Hastings
DDDD ??/1987 Lead O/S
andy gittins ??/1987 -
Martin Bennett 23/Jul/86 -
with RA
Paul Clarke ??/1985 -
with LUMC, FMC
andybirtwistle 26/Apr/84 Lead O/S
with Ernie Greenwood
Mark Kemball 09/Sep/82 Lead
with Steve Finch
Hidden ??/1982 Lead
tapley 25/May/81 2nd
with John Sumner
Dave Musgrove 17/Apr/81 Lead
with Kim Greenald
neilh ?/Apr/80 2nd
Chris Craggs ??/1980 Lead
Hidden 01/Jul/69 Lead
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Voting
High E2
Mid E2
Low E2
High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
High HVS
Mid HVS
Low HVS
Votes cast 122
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
High 4c
Mid 4c
Low 4c
Votes cast 117
Votes cast 111
Style of ascent
Lead
Followed
Alt Leads
Soloed
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
Dogged
Flashed (β)
DNF
Redpoint
Ground Up
Not Set