Joyous Gard** HVS 5a
[Blowing the cobwebs away, 3 kb]

Rockfax Description
The line of grooves and cracks between the corner and the cave of Strait Gate. Climb the grooves then move slightly right into the cracks. These lead steeply to a small groove on the right. Move up into a cave then climb the loose gully above to the top. © ROCKFAX

FA. J.Perrin 30.8.70 30/Aug/1970

Ticklists: Ultimate HVS ticklist.

Photo: Blowing the cobwebs away © Si Hughes
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This climb is in 132 logbooks, and on 6 wishlists.

JulianB - 2nd O/S - 25/Sep/15 with Rob Hinton

Quite tricky and not a lot of good rests, got a bit rattled
poeter210 - Lead O/S - 20/Sep/15 with argentinian machine

joem - Lead O/S - 29/Aug/15

Hidden - Lead O/S - 02/Aug/15

sparbus - 2nd - 17/Jul/15 with mike b

Took very long on this and found the line not obvious as it should be.
Sardien - Lead O/S - 16/Jun/15 with Rich Gentry

ian d f - Lead O/S - 31/May/15 with Mark

markfromstoke - 2nd - 31/May/15 with Ian

A high tide hybrid pitch starting up the buttress between this route and The Straight Gate then moving left into the route proper.
andy_pemberton - Lead - 26/May/15 with Dave Marshall

RWelch - 2nd RP - 01/May/15

AdamCB - 2nd - 19/Aug/14

Hidden - Lead O/S - 03/Aug/14

Dizz - Lead O/S - 28/Jul/14 with rob p

guy757 - 14/Jul/14

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 22/Jun/14

RosePearson - Lead O/S - 21/Jun/14

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 14/Jun/14

Hidden - Lead - 14/Jun/14

Steep and pumpy.
spragglerocks - Lead O/S - 27/May/14 with James Hoyes, Rachel Batt

Hoyes - 2nd O/S - 27/May/14 with Rachael S, Rachel B

tobydunford - Lead O/S - 27/May/14 with Harry Martin

Hidden - Lead O/S - 23/May/14

Hidden - 2nd - 23/May/14

Harri777 - 2nd - 17/May/14 with Khalid

khalidq - Lead dog - 17/May/14 with Harriet Kirk

Felt tough, maybe just first route of the day and cold hands, some nice climbing, pushy in places.
Brannock - 19/Apr/14

Mike Tutt - Lead O/S - 18/Apr/14

Hard, pumpy and got rather scared.
Cardi - Lead O/S - 13/Apr/14 with Nik G

alastairbegley - 2nd O/S - 12/Apr/14 with Richard Nicholson

Slick - Lead - 12/Apr/14 with Alastair Begley

Hidden - 2nd β - 04/Nov/13

Pretty greasy but a good route (in spite of the dodgy top-out) and well led by EeFu.
cem - 2nd - 06/Oct/13 with EeFu Thong

Didn't like the loose top out. Nice route otherwise, top end HVS?
Rachel Somerville - Lead O/S - 06/Sep/13 with Nik

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 11/Aug/13

Dilwat - 2nd O/S - 27/Jul/13 with Nick

tough for the grade, sustained and a thin section before the final crack to the through cave
nickdonohue - Lead - 27/Jul/13 with Ian Riddell

Hidden - Lead O/S - 10/Jun/13

Andrew1 - 2nd - 09/Jun/13 with Hulda

r_o_b_h2 - Lead O/S - 08/Jun/13 with Nik Goile

Hidden - Lead O/S - 08/Jun/13

Hidden - 2nd β - 08/Jun/13

guy757 - 05/Jun/13

Katya - 2nd - 26/May/13 with Rich Lade

Hidden - Lead O/S - 05/Apr/13

Hidden - 2nd - 05/Apr/13

Hidden - 2013

Neil Morbey - Lead O/S - 28/Nov/12 with John Eanes

One rest due to pump. A beefy outing.
cbeard - Lead dog - 25/Aug/12 with Edmund Morris, Dickon Morris

Tough for the grade
pembrokeshirecaver - Lead O/S - 30/Jul/12 with Edmund Morris

some quite awkward moves put it high in the grade.
Ed morris - 2nd O/S - 30/Jul/12 with Dickon

from high tide hanging belay above the groove.
chrisallan - Lead O/S - 28/May/12

mes32 - 2nd O/S - 28/May/12 with Chris

awesomely pumpy adventure! defiantly worth its 5a.
TM_Horton - Lead O/S - 24/Mar/12 with will

Great climb, took us a little longer than expected but a great climb all in all.
Will Horton - 2nd O/S - 24/Mar/12 with Tom Horton

CRiddiford - 2nd - 11/Mar/12 with Chris

chrism225 - Lead O/S - 11/Mar/12 with Caroline

keith leonard - 2012

PAJames - 2012

Adam Booth - Lead O/S - 23/Sep/11 with Ellen Cobby

Loved the cave at the top!
Ellen Cobby - 2nd dog - 23/Sep/11 with Adam Booth

Sebastien Gastaud - Lead O/S - 28/Aug/11 with Patrick Goodwin

Joris.Roulleau - 2nd O/S - 28/Aug/11 with Dan Metcalfe

I found this really tough, got completely pumped on lower section, messing aroud tryign to find gear. Nearly came off, and then again higher up because I couldnt grip anything! It was supposed to be a warm up for harder things but I was put off somewhat.Great climbing tho!
manwithacam - Lead - 28/Aug/11 with Joris

Pumpy. Went too far right and had to do funky traverse to get into the gully. Fun going through cave though rope drag was issue.
freemanTom - Lead O/S - 27/Aug/11 with Normal Steve

Hidden - 2nd - Jul/11

Dave Foster - 2nd O/S - 23/Jun/11 with Jim, Robin, Si

Bit run out nice moves out the cave did the harder start
ojp - Lead O/S - 23/Jun/11 with Jim, Dave, Robin

robin_hackney - 2nd O/S - 22/Jun/11 with Jim, Dave Foster, Simon Petty

pretty strenuous, but HVS seems about right (a pretty tough one though).
andy dunn - Lead O/S - 01/May/11 with J

stuc - 2nd O/S - 2011 with david morse

Hidden - Lead - 2011

One star?? I thought this was spectacularly good! But then I haven't done Straight Gate or Rock Idol yet.
Julesthe1st - Lead O/S - 30/Aug/10 with Paul Wolf

Aerondt - 2nd O/S - Aug/10 with Gaz

owiowz - 2nd dog - 28/Jul/10 with Siwan, Aerondt

a slight overhang, very strengous on the forearms done in a multipitch. loose rocks at top.
siwclimber - 2nd - 28/Jul/10 with Aeron, Gaz, Owain

Jessie Rushbrooke - Lead O/S - 12/Jul/10 with GF

matt.woodfield - AltLd O/S - 11/Jul/10

Hidden - Lead - 09/Jun/10

Hidden - 2nd rpt - 28/May/10

irish paul - Lead O/S - 03/May/10 with Dave Ripley

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 03/May/10

theotherpetehill - 2nd - 02/May/10

jacobjacob - Lead O/S - 02/May/10

mattyork2 - 2nd - 08/Apr/10 with Mia Stacey

sustained climbing all the way,great route tho!
RobRock84 - 2nd O/S - 20/Sep/09 with Steve Quinton

Billg - 2nd - 19/Sep/09 with Megan Beaumont

Hidden - Lead O/S - 16/Sep/09

belay bunny turned bad - 2nd O/S - 16/Sep/09 with loundsy

Hidden - 2nd - 27/Aug/09

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 26/May/09

Hidden - 25/May/09

davesimpson - Lead O/S - May/09 with charles ramadan

gripped01 - AltLd - May/09 with Jim Jarvis

ASchwirtz - Lead O/S - 11/Jun/08 with Alec (UBMC)

alek - 2nd O/S - 11/Jun/08 with Ant Schwirtz

Hidden - Lead O/S - 03/Jun/08

Hidden - Lead rpt - 31/May/08

The Bad Cough - Lead O/S - 24/May/08 with Lee Bonner

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 15/Apr/08

VPJB - 2008

david morse - Lead - 28/May/07 with Stu Corns

Fat Tim - Lead O/S - 16/Apr/07 with Sarah Baker

Surprisingly pumpy! under estimated the route, but it's a nice line with a cool cave towards the top
waltersp - Lead O/S - 08/Oct/06 with Stu

Surprisingly pumpy! under estimated the route, but it's a nice line with a cool cave towards the top
waltersp - Lead O/S - 08/Oct/06 with Stu

dan gibson - 2nd O/S - 30/Jun/06 with martina

Bern - 2006

Hidden - Lead O/S - 2006

Dave Reeve - AltLd O/S - Aug/05 with Tony Payne

Jason Gotel - Lead - Jul/05 with Pippa Lansdown

Boxy - Lead O/S - 2005 with Aus

drysori - AltLd - 2005

ASchwirtz - Lead O/S - 07/Jun/04 with Carl

al99 - Lead O/S - Jun/04 with Nick Record

Hidden - 2nd - Jun/04

Hidden - AltLd - 2004

Hidden - 2nd - 28/Jun/03

LC - Lead O/S - Jun/03

chris wyatt - 2001 with chris praxmarer

shoulders - 2nd - 01/Aug/99 with pete lewis, dai

DafSWMC - Lead dog - Mar/99

Ched - Lead O/S - 1998 with Glanfor

Budge - Lead dog - Aug/96 with Brian Ottewell

ChrisJD - Lead - 11/Jun/96 with PeteC

mikej - 2nd - 16/May/96 with John Flint, Nick Salmon

Andy Say - Lead O/S - 30/Apr/94

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 05/Sep/93

Nigel Coe - 2nd - 1989 with Tim Dunsby

Mike Owen - 15/Aug/85 with Ian Carr

Hidden - 1985

Nigel Bond - Lead - 26/Aug/84 with Ben Foord

tapley - 2nd - 25/May/81 with John Sumner

Hidden - 2nd - 07/Aug/76

Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
Andy Chubb, mloskot

Total votes cast 89
hard E10 of 32
E11 of 32
easy E14 of 32
hard HVS23 of 32
HVS4 of 32
easy HVS0 of 32
hard VS0 of 32
VS0 of 32
easy VS0 of 32
hard 5b0 of 31
5b0 of 31
easy 5b8 of 31
hard 5a9 of 31
5a14 of 31
easy 5a0 of 31
hard 4c0 of 31
4c0 of 31
easy 4c0 of 31
3 Stars1 of 26
2 Stars21 of 26
1 Star4 of 26
0 Stars0 of 26
Bag of .....0 of 26
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Style of ascent
Alt Leads
Clean O/S
Clean β
Clean repeat
Clean RP