UKC Logbook - 'The Strait Gate'

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Pembrokeshire > Mother Carey's Kitchen >

The Strait Gate

E1 5b

Adjacent Climbs
<< Joyous Gard

The Strait Gate - Left hand Finish >>

Another mega route with all the ingredients you come to expect from Pembroke - stunning lines, great climbing and bags of atmosphere! It is a hard E1 though so make sure you have a bit in reserve for the stiff finish. Climb into the cave (possible belay if the tide threatens and it can also be reached by abseil if the tide is in). Move up the chimney until it is possible to step onto the wall on the right. Climb back above into the cracks and follow these until they start to close. Make some hard moves straight up the wall to the top. It is possible to traverse left from where the crack closes into the finishing gully which is a bit easier - HVS 5a. © ROCKFAX
FA. J.Perrin 26.8.70 26/Aug/1970

Ticklists: Victim Of Mathematics' Ticklist of Extreme Justice, Pembroke Rockfax Top 50.

Photo: Robin enjoying a classic © Dave Foster
View all 6 photos or Submit a new photo of this climb.

PUBLIC LOGBOOKS

This climb is in 247 logbooks, and on 34 wishlists.

tommytuffa - 2nd - 18/Jun/13 with Libby

Pippa - Lead O/S - 09/Jun/13 with Jamie Thornley

Comedy as gear high in cave, but escaped eventually. Beautiful climbing
NB Pixel - 2nd O/S - 09/Jun/13 with David Barlow

RachelP - 2nd - 03/Jun/13

Hidden - Lead O/S - 29/May/13

Exceptional, pumpy at top. Don't go too high in the cave!
Stuart Johnston - Lead O/S - 19/May/13 with Sadie Renwick

Haydn Jones - 2nd O/S - 29/Apr/13 with pep

Julie Carroll - Lead O/S - 27/Apr/13 with Sol Fernandez

Tightsgirl - 2nd - 23/Apr/13 with Ali Rose

arose - Lead - 23/Apr/13 with Hannah Francis

Martin Bennett - Apr/13

Goose4 - Lead O/S - 27/Mar/13 with Tom Adams

Hidden - 2013

Rowan Mitchell - 2nd dog - 20/Oct/12 with Andre Steele

Good but E2 5c?
Dangerous Dave - Lead O/S - 19/Sep/12 with Dave O

Ed Babs - 2nd O/S - 18/Sep/12 with AlexD

AlexD - Lead O/S - 18/Sep/12 with Ed

tom.e - Lead O/S - 06/Sep/12 with Claire

Very safe and not really pumpy if you climb conservatively. Not sure if its really E2 as in CC guide.
pembrokeshirecaver - Lead O/S - 28/Aug/12 with Martin

jon_gill1 - 2nd O/S - 26/Aug/12 with john ripley

eddy-on-the-rocks - Lead O/S - 23/Jul/12 with Tom

James Marshall - Lead O/S - 23/Jul/12 with Dick Hall

tommytuffa - 2nd - 23/Jul/12 with edd

Very nice climbing, sustained but plenty of semi rests to keep the pump at bay. Got a bit carried away placed 18 runners, 17 were bomber. E1.5??
Ed morris - Lead O/S - 20/Jul/12 with -martin

Hidden - Lead O/S - 19/Jul/12

mikelawrence aka jonnienomates - 2nd - 09/Jul/12 with James the Navigator

Hardcore Pat - Lead β - 01/Jul/12 with Sir William of pettitsmith

Rob84 - 2nd O/S - 28/May/12 with Chris James

Had to move belay out of the cave as the sea kept coming in
theotherpetehill - Lead O/S - 28/May/12 with jacobjacob

crispyboy - Lead dnf - 28/May/12 with denzel

colesy - Lead O/S - 27/May/12

JamieSparkes - Lead O/S - 06/May/12

CragDog - 2nd - 06/May/12

Rich didn't fancy the original top out so escaped left at 5a. I grabbed the tat to traverse left - tut tut lol!
mick1jones - 2nd dog - 05/May/12 with Rich Rogers

r fizzle - 2nd rpt - 04/May/12 with Olli Crudge

vanderz - Lead O/S - 11/Apr/12 with patrick dawson

easier than rock idol and very good but not quite as good
r fizzle - 2nd O/S - 08/Apr/12 with Chi Huo Cheng

Hidden - Lead - 08/Apr/12

melonmike - 2nd O/S - 08/Apr/12 with liam brown

Dean177 - 2nd O/S - 08/Apr/12 with Alan Dibben

Dibdawg - Lead O/S - 08/Apr/12 with Dean Merchant

Chi Cheng - Lead O/S - 08/Apr/12 with Rachel Stater

andy dunn - Lead rpt - 07/Apr/12 with Big Ben

1st pitch, Overly gripped!
nickwhimster - AltLd O/S - 07/Apr/12 with monsteratt

Did in two pitches as concerned about rope length. I lead the second bit from the small cave halfway. Still very pumpy.
monsteratt - AltLd O/S - 06/Apr/12 with Nick Whimster

Hidden - Lead rpt - 06/Apr/12

ben1987 - Apr/12 with Adam Coles

Bit of an epic in freezing conditions, but got there in the end! :-)
Ciro - Lead O/S - 16/Mar/12 with Ramon

Ramon Marin - 2nd - 16/Mar/12 with ciaran tracey

Nick1812P - Lead O/S - 11/Mar/12 with Jake

one fall near the top, kind of nice though!
CRiddiford - Lead dog - 11/Mar/12 with Chris

mwatson - Lead O/S - 11/Mar/12 with thomasadixon

Good lead by Caroline!
chrism225 - 2nd O/S - 11/Mar/12 with Caroline

Jake Young - 2nd O/S - 11/Mar/12 with Nick

Owain Llewelyn - Lead - 07/Mar/12 with Gareth E

al99 - 2nd O/S - 26/Feb/12 with Luke Hodson

lukehodson - Lead O/S - 26/Feb/12 with Al Benson

adie84 - 2012

Adam Coles - Lead O/S - 2012 with ben park

Tony Kartawick - 2012

annetweddell - Lead - 31/Aug/11 with Jeff

Led clean - well chuffed! Made use of 2 hands free rests to conserve energy for the crux section.
Pete Nugent - Lead - 30/Aug/11 with John Tebay (LC&CC)

Mr Sparkle - Lead O/S - 29/Aug/11 with Liam Byrne

brian watson - Lead O/S - 29/Aug/11 with scott titt

HVS finish
Stone Muppet - Lead O/S - 28/Aug/11

Got massively pumped faffing around below the crux and ran out of arms. Escaped up the HVS.
climbingpixie - Lead dog - 28/Aug/11 with Andy

Sebastien Gastaud - 2nd - 28/Aug/11 with Patrick Goodwin

Leelogs - 2nd rpt - 28/Aug/11 with James Oswald

Amazing start to the route. Awesome gear threads and moves and EXPOSED! Got to below the crux on this and was already pumped out of my head. Spent too long placing gear. Ending up reversing while mega pumped back down and doing the less exciting HVS finish. I'll be back with some more trust in my gear to go for it..
James Oswald - Lead - 28/Aug/11

Matthew Robinson - Lead - 14/Aug/11 with Jon

Tough
liam - Lead O/S - 14/Aug/11 with Ollie B

Outstanding route, hard for the grade, very good protection throughout but top is run out.
davesimpson - Lead O/S - Aug/11 with Dean Russel

C coldwell-storry - Lead O/S - 22/Jul/11 with rob lay

markalmack - Lead O/S - 03/Jul/11 with jacqui savage

benchwarmer - 2nd O/S - 30/Jun/11 with Konrad

pipof747 - 2nd O/S - 27/Jun/11

Class.
Dave Foster - Lead O/S - 22/Jun/11 with Jim, Si 2

Had to lead it clean after the fail the previous day.
robin_hackney - Lead O/S - 22/Jun/11 with Jim

Bad footwork lead to a nice fall from the top.
robin_hackney - Lead dog - 21/Jun/11 with Si

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 20/Jun/11

Lenny - Lead O/S - 18/Jun/11 with John

Hidden - Lead O/S - 02/Jun/11

Placed too much gear on the easy bit up the crack, by the time the crack ran out, so had most of my gear, all my quickdraws and any energy in my arms!
Joughton - Lead O/S - 30/May/11

andy dunn - 2nd - 01/May/11 with J

Hidden - Lead O/S - 20/Apr/11

Graham Westbrook - Lead O/S - 10/Apr/11

An absolutely class route. One of the best I've done. Not quite sure why it is top of the graded list though.
Shauna - Lead O/S - 07/Apr/11 with Annelies

Rory Shaw - 2011

Hidden - Lead O/S - 2011

Hidden - 2011

mwatson - 2011

Hidden - 2nd - 2011

Was pumped by the time I got in the cave had a bit of a break then continued to get even more pumped until flapping my way just about to the top. Pumpier than I was expecting. Great line though, loads of threads/interesting holds!!
monsteratt - Lead O/S - 20/Nov/10 with Will S

Hidden - 2nd - 26/Sep/10

irish paul - Lead rpt - 30/Aug/10 with Sarah Joyce

Steady but excellent.
philhilo - Lead O/S - 30/Aug/10 with misha

Owen Pinch - AltLd O/S - 29/Aug/10

thomasadixon - 2nd O/S - 29/Aug/10 with Andy Dunn

Really enjoyed it - fair to say it's at the Hard E1 / easy E2 boundary, though I think E1 is fair given the gear.
andy dunn - Lead O/S - 29/Aug/10 with Tom Dixon

Ketu - 2nd O/S - 28/Aug/10 with Graeme H

Solid lead by Phil. We agreed it was a good route but not particularly hard for E1 and overrated to be in the Rockfax Top 50.
Misha - 2nd O/S - 28/Aug/10 with Phil

quite gripped and pumped by the top but excellent moves, and nice holds, big a buzz topping out!
Graeme Hammond - Lead O/S - 28/Aug/10 with Rob

Alasdair88 - 2nd O/S - 22/Aug/10 with Loz

felt out there!
Dr Caterpillar - Lead O/S - 22/Aug/10 with Al

Graham Iles - 2nd - 14/Aug/10 with Neil Stabbs

Speeddemonsi - Lead O/S - 13/Aug/10

Hidden - 2nd rpt - 11/Aug/10

Hidden - Lead O/S - 01/Aug/10

Amazing climb, I need to come back here and bring my climbing head
greenroom - 2nd O/S - 01/Aug/10 with Pocket rocket

quiffhanger - Lead O/S - Aug/10

Hidden - 2nd dog - 29/Jul/10

Abbed in at high tide. Highly atmospheric experience! Yet another Mother Carey special... Great climbing throughout, getting steeper with height. Left hand 'cop-out' finish looks very inferior and the straight to top option is cool and steady
Cragrat Rich - Lead O/S - 29/Jul/10

Hidden - Lead O/S - 29/Jul/10

Steep & pumpy, but a great route. Started from cave due to incoming tide.
slacky - 2nd O/S - 11/Jul/10 with Ben

Laurence Everitt - Lead O/S - 15/Jun/10 with Harry Thorpe, James Brewer

Gareth Clendinning (UBMC) - Lead O/S - 09/Jun/10 with James Kay

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 09/Jun/10

The start feels horrible but it gets a lot better!
Paul Phillips - UKC and UKH - Lead O/S - 31/May/10 with Alex Dalton

Jessie Rushbrooke - Lead O/S - 17/May/10 with GF

irish paul - 2nd O/S - 03/May/10 with Dave Ripley

Had done the top part on second as part of another route, but about 3 years ago.
dave657 - Lead O/S - 03/May/10 with paul b

Luke Brooks - Lead O/S - 21/Apr/10

barni - Lead O/S - 21/Apr/10 with Liam fleming

Pown - Lead O/S - 08/Apr/10

mattyork2 - Lead O/S - 07/Apr/10 with Mia Stacey

Hidden - Lead O/S - 2010

took the high tide belay at the start but still got drenched by a few waves belaying! soaking chalk bag! argh!
ian d f - 2nd O/S - 09/Sep/09 with Pete H

Pumpy near the top, interesting moves
jimbonfire - Lead O/S - 29/Aug/09

spidey - Lead - 29/Aug/09

Hidden - 2nd - 07/Aug/09

simonp - Lead O/S - Aug/09 with Annelies Sarrazyn

haydng - Lead rpt - 30/Jul/09 with Dave

Hidden - Lead O/S - 05/Jun/09

took HVS finish, the direct looks well hard!
Stone Muppet - Lead O/S - 03/Jun/09 with mu

Leelogs - 2nd - 24/May/09 with Chris

Kirill - 2nd dog - 03/May/09 with Charles Moreton

cem - Lead O/S - 03/May/09 with Kirill Spiridonov

datoon - Lead O/S - 02/May/09 with K

gripped01 - Lead - May/09 with Jim Jarvis

Dave Rumney - May/09

Hidden - 2nd - 14/Apr/09

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 21/Mar/09

matt.woodfield - AltLd - 24/Jan/09

mynyddresident - Lead - 2009

The back of the cave was damp and green, so moved straight onto the face from the bottom of the cave as others had done, judging by the chalk.
gjd - Lead O/S - 28/Sep/08 with Ronnie

Not a good choice for a warm-up. Got pumped early on and struggled throughout. Nothing left in the tank at the top - couldn't even speak !
Chris the Tall - Lead O/S - 26/Sep/08 with Dom Ske

Hidden - Lead - 19/Sep/08

david morse - Lead rpt - 15/Aug/08 with General

HughM - Lead O/S - Aug/08 with Ben Bamford

lukea - Lead O/S - 15/Jun/08 with dan

Climbed in two pitches. I led the second (Crux)pitch.
Castleclimber - AltLd O/S - 15/Jun/08 with Alastair

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 11/Jun/08

Hidden - Lead O/S - 11/Jun/08

had one rest to get out some stuck gear, great route
BenJacobs - 2nd dog - 11/Jun/08 with Nick

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 02/Jun/08

Hidden - Lead O/S - 02/Jun/08

Hidden - Lead O/S - May/08

Julian Wedd - 2nd - 2008 with A. Howarth

janegallwey - Lead - 2008

?what year
Adam Booth - Lead O/S - 2008

the juicy dangler - 2nd O/S - 18/Sep/07 with rob greenwood

got a bit sandbagged here by reeeve. 'easy e1' hmmm. glad he did though, awesome route.
Belier - Solo O/S - 13/Sep/07 with reeve

Hidden - Lead - 04/Apr/07

Rob Kennard - 2007

mux - 2007 with Simon Frost

frost - 2nd - 2007 with D Garry

Ramon Marin - Lead O/S - 09/Sep/06 with Dave Reaney

Deserted crag on a Tuesday, tide (and rain) coming in so led in 2 pitches, belaying in niche atop chimney. Mega arm blaster with crux at top, no quibbles with E2 tag. Awesome route, really amazing and certainly among my most rewarding climbing experiences.
Owen W-G - Lead O/S - 05/Sep/06 with Si

On final move, couldnt top out shamedly grabbed the abe line to stop a decent whipper
stuwelly85 - Lead - 07/Aug/06 with Paul Walters

waltersp - 2nd O/S - Aug/06

amaaaaaaazing
david morse - Lead - Aug/06 with rampant

dan gibson - Lead O/S - 28/Jun/06 with martina

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 27/Jun/06

Mark Riley - Lead O/S - 12/Jun/06 with Tom Pascall

One rest to retreive a jammed sling.
Paz - 2nd dog - 10/Jun/06 with AR

Hidden - Lead - 16/May/06

sustained!
Different Steve - Lead O/S - 30/Apr/06 with Guy Reid

Hidden - Lead O/S - 13/Apr/06

Pythonist - 2nd O/S - Apr/06 with Alun Evans

Boy - 2006