Restricted Access
Access for climbing has been banned here in the past. However, following recent negotiations with Mendip Outdoor Pursuits, (the company who lease the quarry), climbing access is now allowed on the following basis:
- Climbers must obtain a key by visiting the MOP offices situated at the ski slope (very close to the quarry): Lyncombe Drive, Churchill, North Somerset, BS25 5PQ. Phone 01934 834 877 and is open 9am-8pm weekdays and 9am-6pm weekends. The key must be returned once you finish climbing. Should the office be closed please post the key through the letterbox.
- MOP will fund a supply of keys but if too many are not returned or lost this could jeopardize the agreement.
- Climbers must not hinder MOP’s commercial activities within the quarry.
- MOP reserve the right to remove loose rock and place fixed equipment as required by their commercial operations.
- Commercial organisations must discuss access with MOP prior to visiting the quarry.
Although it is relatively easy to enter the quarry without a key it is essential that anyone visiting the quarry adhere to the agreement outlined above.
Seasonal Restrictions
Reason: Nesting Birds
Peregrines have been reported here, usually nesting opposite the slab routes - please take care during the spring not to disturb them.
60m, 3 pitches.
On the right-hand side of the Broken Buttress is an unusual tongue-like structure,the climb starts at the rightward leading ramp just left of the tongue.Pitch 1.4B, Climb the ramp on good holds PR move towards the crack on the right PR and then follow a rising traverse leftwards to the "Le Balconette"belay on two 8m bolts.Pitch 2 4B.From the belay climb the groove leftwards PR to an alcove with a small Buddleia and indistinct borehole now move slightly right to PR(crux)and carry on upwards to the ledge at the top of "Jez Arete" Peg and Bush belays.Pitch 3,4A.Climb the series of short walls moving left to join the top of "The Ramp" finish up the groove to Stake belays.
Warner Mauri and Martin Bazley. 18/Feb/2013.
Ticklists
The Esoterica of the Mystical Bristol and Mendips Challenge
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Route of Interest
The Crawl of Life
Grade: VS 5a ***
(Stoke Lane Quarry)