Ben Norman Mar/2013
|Climber||Date||Style||Notes & Partners|
First play since part of the crimp snapped. Felt OK myself but OWWWWW, does that crimp hurt now!
Consolidating foot jam section. Felt more solid until a part of the crimp on the lip snapped off. Slightly smaller, harder and sharper now but reckon it'll still go.
Progress. Got the foot jam to stick and was steady on the two holds on the lip. Practised the finish from the rail a couple of times once got tired - nae bother. Just a 1ft right hand movement and she's in the bag - he says optimistically!
left hand to good edge, right to intermediate and then jug. 7B/+ is fair.
No joy today. Have been trying to fluke my way through the foot jam. Realised today that I need to sacrifice a session to get that wired before going for it. Great to be out - first week night session of the year!
Felt solid but no cigar. Did some excellent 'shoulder stands' to enable foot jam practice - have new beta for next time as too wasted to try it today.
Excellent cold dry conditions - sooo much friction. Sort of progress. Stuck the first move every time but the only time I got the crimp on the lip perfectly, I mucked my feet up - doh! Will revisit this project when more rested.
Holds over lip wet so worked the start. Getting feet in the crack more consistently now. Bring on some drier conditions and we'll go for it!
End of session but progress. Got the feet sorted in the crack. Reached the intermediate hold on the lip with my RH - so surprised that I promptly fell off. This was without the first move. Will be back for this - closer...
End of session. Pooped. Went backwards. Will return with fresh muscles and skin!
Still working it. Pleased to get to previous high point from the start after a long break from this problem. Still got work to do though.
More good news (it just keeps coming); after a good six months away from this one, I reached my high point (three moves in - I know, I know) first go. Today I got the fourth move (getting the feet jammed in the crack) and have 'taken the fall' from the move to the intermediate and good rail. Closer! Can't wait for more!
Got the third move today. Only the toe jam and matching the lip to go. Bring on the bum first falls whilst I work that out.
Mucked about on the last campus move. Got it ok but the finishing hold is right proper muddy. Need to pull a bit harder to match it too. Still got lots to do though.
Good news, got the 'udge move'. On to getting the feet jammed in the hole now. One move at a time :-)
Have had a little play on this before. Stuck the first move, next time I need to work out how to 'udge' the right hand.
With start matching narrow slot 1m right to add on 2 hard moves
|Beastly Squirrel||19/Aug/13||Sent x||
Felt 7c when trying but felt 7b when I did it. Very painful crimp, toehook and half eaten away wrist! A low left sit start to this will be brutal.
|grey wolf||31/May/13||Sent x||
nice new line, used different beta to ben in the end, using the right hand crimp on the lip with my left hand. stiff 7b+ i reckon.
Nice little line with very interesting moves, felt really easy when in went so unsure of grade, 2 sessions. Need Repeats to confirm grade